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I finally decided to just send my DME (ECU) into Specialized ECU Repair. BUT....along with ECU and Immobilizer they want the steering lock module which I believe is located above the steering column. Any hints on how to get at it. Service manual shows 2 long bolts at the top of the column then it looks like I can drop it down and remove the module. Thanks V

To be clear - which item numbers please...

Need part numbers for the 10 triple square flexplate to crank bolts and the 6 torque converter to flexplate bolts, thanks

do you know how to remove the socket side once you have the connector open? I tried pushing one out and it left behind a metal ring.

I just completed this repair on my 2000 911 convertible and avoided a $2,000+ repair bill in the DC area. I'm no mechanic. It took one half day as I took the time to carefully store parts, nuts and bolts so I could put everything back together when done with the repair. Happy to answer any questions.

Welcome to RennTech Been more than a little while since the last time I worked on one of those connectors, but if memory serves, I used a Sir Tools 9025: Problem with questions like this is that most shops probably have a half dozen different pin removal kits which you cycle thru to you find the one that works......

I have a 2000 Boxster S (986) and the leather in the center front of the dash has pulled away from the windshield / IR sensor. Has anyone ever tried to fix this without removing the dash and having it totally redone? Thanks

I am replacing the engine wiring harness in my 98 boxster and need to move some of the SAI wires from the old to the new. the old harness is North American spec and the new is row. Does anyone know how to remove and replace the pins from for the x59 type connector. I have opened the connector but I cant see how to unlatch the pins.

Qxyclean Oxygen bleach works great, also used it on gummy dash on 2006 VW bettle convertible. Could not believe how well it worked.

My ISP assures me that their no no country restrictions on renntech.org. The only restrictions are know spammers IPs.

You can try re-programming the PCM and fiber gateway. You will need a "real" PIWIS for this.

I lifted up the pup in a body shop I had stopped by for something else and checked the final drives and CV joints both tight and the inner joints are tight to the gearbox flanges. Seems all good. Not seeing anything loose in rear suspension on neither side. I have a spare set of aftermarket rear brake rotors with the aftermarket set of the pads in my garage that I replaced with the factory ones a year ago after I got the pup. Will swap those one side at a time see if it anything w/ the stock brake disks/pads or also there is an aluminum screen on the inner side of the brake rotor if anything is with it?

Strange it's apparently only an issue from the Netherlands. I have traveled to Germany and Italy somewhat frequently and never had a problem accessing from there (usually from an iPhone).

I also struggle with Renntech not being accessible from Europe. For as long as I can remember (at least 5-6 years) I can only access Renntech.org though an USA proxy. I have tried on different computers, different browsers, different locations (home, school, work, 4G mobile, at friends) but from nowhere in the Netherlands I can get to Renntech.org. If I use a proxy, i can only use a non-European proxy. with a European proxy the results are the same: unable to load the address. Today I managed to register an account though using multiple proxy's. I have tried before but failed because the confirmation url send by email could not be opened with the proxy I used before. Anybody has an idea what is going on? I was not sure to reply on this topic since its already 3 years old, or start a new topic.

Hello everyone! 🙂 I'm not sure what is happening here... The car was parked for a while, and the battery had been flat for some time. Now, I have replaced the battery with a new one, and during a test drive, I noticed an error in the PCM and no sound from the radio. Mute/Unmute/VolUp. Nothing. The PCM reports: "System error: CD changer, telephone, navigation not available." The car has all these modules and a BOSE system/amplifier. Disconnected the battery again, waited, and tried again. No change. I checked the fuses, and the front right #4 and #36 (5A) were blown. When I replaced them, they blew again. Telephone module? Unplugged the module under the passenger seat, put the fuse in: OK. The module is broken, or so I thought. I bought MOST fiber bridges and inserted one in place of the telephone module. Unfortunately, no changes. PCM same error, no navigation, CDC, and audio. Then I suspected that the amplifier was causing problems (the PCM shows no amplifier, not even via MAIN+TRIP menu). I bridged the amp too. PCM same error. CDC and navigation do not work. I tried to trace the fiber connections. PCM -> AMP -> CDC -> NAV/DVD -> TEL should be the loop. The AMP connector lights up red (from PCM), and if I bridge it, the next one in the loop should light up red, but no plug turns red that I could find. Not the CDC, TEL, or NAV. I have bridged all devices piece by piece but cannot find a plug that would continue in theory after the amp. But with my phone lamp could I light my way through the connectors...? The PCM, for some reason, does not complain about the amp. Nothing changed in the car, except the new battery and the telephone module that was blowing fuses. Does the PCM error need to be cleared to test the NAV and CDC? I don't know where else I can look, apart from having the error cleared at the shop. Thank you very much! Porsche Cayenne Turbo, 2005.

Hello community, I am just working on my 996 C4 3.6 engine. While replacing all 3 chain tensioners I realized that chain tensioner crankshaft to IMS and chain tensioner bank 1 can be pumped up with oil externally. They fill up with oil when pumping and become hard. This is what I expected…. But doing the same with chain tensioner bank 2 will not show the same result. Bank 2 tensioner will not get hard. I tested with brand new chain tensioners… Also the same with old bank 2 tensioner. Any ideas? BR, boxar

Then I would also be looking at the Allan head fasteners that hold the assembly together; we have seen MANY of these back out because they were not cleaned and torqued properly with Loctite applied to them before they were reinstalled. Very common post work failure point.

Will do on the upcoming weekend but to my knowledge as I had replaced both inner CV boots on a 355 last Summer which was involving disassembly the inner CV joints with the ball bearing completely with reassembling; if it will be a wear in the CV caves on either shaft or the star and the CV joint is loose, it will be a push because of so at the beginning of the car movement from standing still but when clunk(s) happen are when the pup is few seconds already moving and during the clunking sound there is no any pushes or any movement distortion. As I looked the 996.2 and 987.1 final drives and the CV boots look very similar to 355. Probably the same or similar all made by Bosch. It is just the clunking sound. Or two. And, when driving somewhere say for about an hr, the sound is not getting repeating more often, etc. And I was driving at some times up to 60mph. All perfect. Shifting and everything.

Try grabbing the axle near the CV joint and moving it up and down.

Inner and outer CV boots look great on both sides. I jacked the RL wheel up and rotated it back and forth on Neutral. It has some gap when moving it back and forth but it's not making that clunking sound if rotated up in the air by hands. I jacked up and did same back and forth wheel rotation on 987 which is with ZF19 gearbox. It has similar but smaller and less noticeable gap when moving it back and forth. The weel hub bearing? The wheel hub bearing on 996 seems perfect. The wheel itself rotates with no any noise.

I'd start by looking at the axel CV joints on the offending corner, as well as the hub bearing.

I got a single (sometimes 2 in a row) clunking sound on a MB 996.2 automatic transmission when the car starts moving from a complete stop. The sound comes after the car moved 2-3 feet forward (or in Reverse too). I changed the ATF oil 6 months ago topping it off on a running engine then added more after switching in-gears for 10sec for each. I a little bit overflown it as now on a few days @75F a few drops came out from the breather cap in the front of the transmission a month ago and then stopped and there are a few oil drops came down in a rear on the top of the torque converter drain plug (the MB transmission is having so). The car shifts absolutely perfectly otherwise. The clunking sounds started coming a week ago when weather got some noticeably warmer and it comes not after every full stop but often. Sometimes one, sometimes two clunks. Is it because of a possible oil overfill? What this clunking sound could be after the car starts moving? With a radio on it's hardly noticeable. The clunking sound is appearing coming from the RL wheel housing. I checked it's not coming from the pads nor the RL brake rotor is turning freely with a transmission in Neutral. No any scrubbing on the park brake pads which I adjusted exactly a year ago by the 996 workshop manual procedure.

No value for VIN:

Basic values, ECU Part#, ECU S/N, Unknown Revision maybe, driver side igniter S/N, Pass side igniter S/N. (The igniters are not original either, automatically found)