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All Activity

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  1. Today
  2. It doesn't matter if you have 2,3,4 or even 100 stalks. From the Porsche’s maintenance people. They just plugged my car into their machine and activated it. Simple. All done with the wonderful 3 stocks.
  3. Yesterday
  4. Battery fully charged, starter motor spins but engine does not start, not even cough. Before replacing the fuel pump I am hoping to find a simple, less expensive solution by first checking fuses and relays. The DME relay is ok. The "luggage compartment fuse/relay panel" contains the fuel pump fuse which is also ok. That panel also has 6 round (2 black, 4 red) relays located in a row above the fuses. I understand one operates the fuel pump but I don't know which one is fuel pump related. My local Porsche Dealership parts dept. doesn't have the answer. Please let me know if YOU DO 😉
  5. I think there is a switch that tells it your latch is open and as long as that stays open the window will stay down. It's possible that switch is staying in the "latched" position.
  6. 1999 986 2.5 Boxster. (5 spd) Not many problems with the car but cruise control doesn’t work and the spoiler only extends halfway or so. Current actual problem with the car is that I can feel vibration or shaking in the steering wheel (and in the car to a much lesser extent) after shifting into fourth gear. After shifting into fourth gear, the shaking seems to persist even as I slow down, or after shifting into fifth. It will persist even if I shift into neutral but will stop after I come to a stop. It’s strange to me that this is the case when gears 1-3 don’t have this problem. I am guessing that it’s an issue with bearings or alignment in the front wheels since i’m feeling the vibrations in the wheel but hopefully someone here has a better idea.
  7. Following up - going to 10W40 slowed/stopped the leak, at least for now.
  8. Then you do not have OBC. The fourth stalk can be added, the OBC activated, do a search and you will find lots of DIY installations.
  9. Ok . I understand difficult to locate this kind of problem. maybe somebody is able to tell me the location of the heating control wave. its in the engine bay close to the firewall or somewhere under the dash in the passenger side footwell. Thank you so much
  10. Does the steering column have four stalks or three?
  11. George, I am having the same problem. I cut the plastic side panels and re fit the carpet, but the bar attachment point nearest the driver seat doesn't seem to catch the threads. It is a 2.75" bolt. But not threaded all the way to the end. Just threads starting about 3/8ths of an inch from the tip of the bolt. What did you do
  12. Congrats on the cayenne. The TC drain / fill bolts when new come with thread sealant / lock. Getting new plugs is cheap. Get new brake pad sensors when replacing brake pads.
  13. I'm a new owner of a 1999 C2 which had issues with door locks when I bought it. After a lot of research, I pulled both latches and resoldered the plug connections to the PCB which resolved most of the issues except this: on the passenger door, if I slightly pull the interior or exterior door handle, the window will drop down a half inch or so. Once I release the handle(s), the window will return to the full up position. This means that the door closes on the weather seal. If I pull on either the exterior or interior handle, the window will lower a bit and seal. The driver's side door window will stay in the lower position while the door is ajar and does not have this problem. Durametric no longer shows any faults and the door lock button now works correctly Are there other adjustments inside the latch I should be aware of or is something else causing this problem?
  14. Got transfer cAse fluid changed. Used the ravenel synthetic fluid. old fluid was definitely black.
  15. Thank you. How does one know if they have that option? All I see is what’s in this pic.
  16. Last week
  17. First Renntech post - I just joined yesterday. I read through all the posts here yesterday, plus read the Pelican how-to, and watched the video of the guy using a helper jack on his 997. Some background: I bought my 996 C4S 4 years ago, but I have only put about 4k miles on it. It had great maintenance history despite 150k miles, and the only work needed so far has been a swap of the motor oil and transmission fluid. I did that soon after buying the car, and I couldn't remember much about how I went about it last time. Reading the posts here reminded me that I DID jack on the engine lift point, and didn't damage anything. (At 150k miles, the motor mounts are certainly not original...maybe they are quite new?) I have a lot of tools and experience working on 90s/2000s BMWs, but no Porsche experience. Here's my process: 1. I bought 4 ESCO jack stands from Amazon for $220. Seeing the jack points on the 996 worries me that I would need all kinds of chunks of wood to work with the saddle type and round steel type stands I already have. Annoying and not the safest way. I bought the regular ESCO stands. In hindsight, the low-profile ones are probably better for our cars, but at least I'll be ready any real big job that comes up. The ESCO stands work PERFECTLY with the 996 jack points. I wished I'd bought these a decade ago for all my cars. 2. I bought a 2x10 and cut four 18" long pieces. 3. Using my trusty aluminum "racing" jack from Harbor Freight, I jacked up the car using the right rear jack point. 4. With jack on lowest point, slide it under the right front jack point. 5. Slide two 2x10 pieces double-stacked under the right rear tire. 6. Lower the car onto the stand and wood. 7. Repeat on the left side. (side order doesn't matter) 8. With the rear tires 3" off the ground, it's easy to reach the best rear jacking point - the center of the suspension cross member. 9. Lift car enough to get jack stands under both rear jack points. 10. Lower car onto jack stands. Ta-da! That's pretty fast and easy! 11. Slide wood boards out of the way. Remove wheels. For my suspension project (Ohlins coil-overs), I think I'll have enough room. But if you need to raise the car higher, it's easy now that the wheels are removed. So I suggest always starting with the jack stands in the lowest positions. For the rear, use the center of the suspension cross member (duh!). For the front, you can now get to the reinforced part of the body just inside the front jack point. (This is impossible when the car is on the ground, which makes the Pelican article most useless IMO.) see yellow arrow in figure 1 at link below. https://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Porsche-996-997-Carrera/01-BASIC-Jacking_Up_Your_Car/01-BASIC-Jacking_Up_Your_Car.htm I hope this helps any other 996 newbies in the future. Hard to get far on DIY maintenance if you can't get the car in the air! As for the Ohlins project, I will report back. My plan is to replace all suspect bushings, certainly the 8 big links. Probably replace with stock end links, for now. Then drive car and assess the impact of Ohlins (and new bushes) by itself. Then replace the very tired Sumitomos, probably with Michelin Pilots. Then maybe swap the sway bars also. My pace is glacial due to job and family, so don't expect to hear back for a while. Cheers!
  18. Loren, you crushed it! Thank you!
  19. Hello, I just purchased a 2003 Porsche Boxster with a CDR-220 radio (I know this is weird since this yearly came with CDR-23 & MOST system) Anyways my radio is asking for the Code. My serial # is Y5040811. Let me know if you also need vin. Thank you!
  20. Sorry, I'm a moron! X5035126 I appreciate you!
  21. I need your radio serial number not VIN. Follow the procedure in the Lost Radio Code FAQ and the post here.
  22. Hello, same issue here. Locked out, hoping someone can help me find radio code. Cdr-220 Vin yu661467
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