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I have a problem with my (I believe) B&M shifter, just started recently where it was getting difficult to shift into reverse. Now I can only shift into 2nd and 4th. What do I need to adjust and/or replace? I'm hoping it's just something simple, but I'm guessing the bushings need to be replaced? I just installed it a couple of years ago, and I tightened up the two side nuts (made it worse).

Just got the car started! I didn't realize that jumping the fuel pump relay bypasses the immobilizer. That makes a lot of sense now and got me thinking about what else could be cutting power to the fuel pump. Not much else in that equation so I went back over the basics again. I first checked for voltage at the fuel pump relay and confirmed that I did not see any voltage when cranking the car. Next down the line would be the fuse box so I looked at the fuse box again and went to pull the fuel pump fuse, a 25 amp fuse in position C4. I was shocked when I looked and it was completely missing! DOH! I did pull all the fuses about a week ago in a fit of desperation so perhaps I walked away with it to check for continuity or something and put it down somewhere? I have no idea where it went as its nowhere to be found in the car (apparently cannabis can effect the memory.) And that doesn't explain why it wasn't starting before I pulled the fuses. Perhaps the original CPS was bad as well? I tested the old fuel pump and it seems fine so my money is on that CPS. I guess I could put it back in the car to see if goes back to crank no start but at this point I'm very glad to have the car running. I have a car friend arriving tomorrow for a visit from across the country and the weather is perfect for some mountain and costal road carving with the top down. I was really worried that he was going to miss the opportunity to experience this amazing car that I've really been enjoying for the past few years. Thank you very much for the prompt responses, JFP. I couldn't have done it without your added info and I can't tell you how much I appreciate it!

The immobilizer shuts off both the fuel and ignition systems to prevent theft of the car. The CPS does the same thing if it does not sense the engine rotation. When you jump the fuel pump relay, the immobilizer is out of the picture, so if you do not hear the pump running when it is jumped, you have a fuel pump issue. Using a multi meter or Power Probe, you can test the fuel up connector at the tank to see if it goes hot when cranking the engine.

Thanks for the quick reply, JFP. I have examined the immobilizer closely and there is no visible damage and both the fuses appear to be in tact. I still have the seat unbolted so I can check again but I even cleaned the connections with sand paper and alcohol just to be sure. I strongly suspect that the fuel pump is not getting power but I have not been able to confirm this. I have tried to jump the relay but I never hear any noise from the fuel tank when i turn the ignition to the on position. I tested the original pump that I removed from the car and confirmed it runs fine when I hook it directly to a battery. Perhaps there is another sensor that is keeping the immobilizer from sending power to the fuel pump? I have read about bad cam position sensors but I'm unsure if they will cause these symptoms. I'm thinking of looking there next maybe? Thanks again for the suggestions!

"I did see a message at one time while cranking saying the immobilizer was not in a ready state but I haven't been able to reproduce that message again." That is very concerning, that unit will paralyze the car if it is unhappy, so I would start there, pulling the unit and looking for evidence of corrosion, water damage, and check the glass fuse in the unit itself.

Hello, I have a 2001 Boxster S 6-speed that left me stranded a few times and now refuses to start. There were two incidents where the car refused to start after running for a while so I first thought it was crank position sensor but then it refused to start at all so I thought maybe fuel pump. I have now replaced both the fuel pump and cps in the past two weeks but the car still refuses to start, just cranks. When i took out the old crank position sensor, it had a good amount of fine metal filings stuck to the end. Any thoughts where those came from? I'm quite sure the pressure plate has a crack in it but the clutch hasn't started slipping yet. When I installed the new crank position sensor, the car seemed to want to start and sort of puffed a few times but then just went back to cranking. When I turn the key to the on position I do see the tach raise up to about the 100 rpm marker and sit there while the car cranks, so I assume that is the "tach bounce" I've read about. I do have a durametric cable but I'm not seeing any obvious codes. I did see a message at one time while cranking saying the immobilizer was not in a ready state but I havn't been able to reproduce that message again. Any ideas or suggestions would be much appreciated. I'm feeling a bit defeated by this issue. Thank you in advance!

Try 2604

May I please get a code for my Porsche Boxster 2000 Radio details: model BE-4462 S/N X5031767 Thank you kindly Highnrg2

Terrific. Thanks for the help!

Loren, I am dropping my 2001 996 with Tip transmission off today to have the transmission serviced as you recommended before due to the Tip shifting working intermittently and not consistent. I am having a very hard time finding the Porsche recommended ATF for my 2001 996. Many searches end up talking about a manual transmission or a 996.2 instead of mine. Do you have any recommendations for a reference point or for the fluid? I read that Pelican is suggesting ATF 6. But someone mentioned that is not approved by Porsche and they are recommending due to Pentosin no longer producing ATF 1. I am amazed that it is so difficult to just search and find the proper ATF for a specific model. Any help or advice as to where I can search would be appreciated. Thanks, Todd

I finally decided to just send my DME (ECU) into Specialized ECU Repair. BUT....along with ECU and Immobilizer they want the steering lock module which I believe is located above the steering column. Any hints on how to get at it. Service manual shows 2 long bolts at the top of the column then it looks like I can drop it down and remove the module. Thanks V

To be clear - which item numbers please...

Need part numbers for the 10 triple square flexplate to crank bolts and the 6 torque converter to flexplate bolts, thanks

do you know how to remove the socket side once you have the connector open? I tried pushing one out and it left behind a metal ring.

I just completed this repair on my 2000 911 convertible and avoided a $2,000+ repair bill in the DC area. I'm no mechanic. It took one half day as I took the time to carefully store parts, nuts and bolts so I could put everything back together when done with the repair. Happy to answer any questions.

Welcome to RennTech Been more than a little while since the last time I worked on one of those connectors, but if memory serves, I used a Sir Tools 9025: Problem with questions like this is that most shops probably have a half dozen different pin removal kits which you cycle thru to you find the one that works......

I have a 2000 Boxster S (986) and the leather in the center front of the dash has pulled away from the windshield / IR sensor. Has anyone ever tried to fix this without removing the dash and having it totally redone? Thanks

I am replacing the engine wiring harness in my 98 boxster and need to move some of the SAI wires from the old to the new. the old harness is North American spec and the new is row. Does anyone know how to remove and replace the pins from for the x59 type connector. I have opened the connector but I cant see how to unlatch the pins.

Qxyclean Oxygen bleach works great, also used it on gummy dash on 2006 VW bettle convertible. Could not believe how well it worked.

My ISP assures me that their no no country restrictions on renntech.org. The only restrictions are know spammers IPs.

You can try re-programming the PCM and fiber gateway. You will need a "real" PIWIS for this.

I lifted up the pup in a body shop I had stopped by for something else and checked the final drives and CV joints both tight and the inner joints are tight to the gearbox flanges. Seems all good. Not seeing anything loose in rear suspension on neither side. I have a spare set of aftermarket rear brake rotors with the aftermarket set of the pads in my garage that I replaced with the factory ones a year ago after I got the pup. Will swap those one side at a time see if it anything w/ the stock brake disks/pads or also there is an aluminum screen on the inner side of the brake rotor if anything is with it?