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  1. Past hour
  2. Porsche unfortunately does not sell a lot of internal components for the rack and a new one retails north of $2700: And there never was a manual rack for this car.
  3. I have a radio from a 2007 Boxster S you can have for 50 bucks shipped Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
  4. Today
  5. So i noticed recently my car has been leaking on the driveway on the front driver side and decided to take a look at what it could be. I put the car on jackstands and took the wheel off and the driver side tie rod boot was wet. Took off the clamp holding it on and it spilled out some fluid. Do you know if i can just replace a seal where the tie rod enters the rack itself or do i have to get a whole new rack and pinion? Also is power steering delete a viable option and relatively easy?
  6. Hi everyone, I've had a spoiler warning lamp on since I bought my 1998 996 convertible a few years ago. As an electronics engineer, I decided I may be able to tackle this issue myself. Before starting, I have read numerous previous posts regarding this issue, and what the fixed-wing bypass harness (996 612 070 51) does. When the rear spoiler is elevated, I'm getting zero Ohms between the Grey/Brown (A2) wire and the Brown (A5) wire, as expected. This becomes open circuit when the lid is lowered. There is then zero Ohms between the Brown (A5) and the Green/Grey (A4) wires, again as expected! The switching of the brake lights works normally too, but still the warning light persists. I am wondering if there could be a corroded plug/socket further forward from the rear of the car because the one at the back is very clean and the microswitch states are normal in both positions. I'm not sure if this is a common fault, but I'm guessing it probably isn't as I can't find anything online. One thing I have noticed is that although the manual up/down wing rocker switch works, I have to keep is pressed down until the wing is down. When I try to elevate the wing manually, the switch triggers the latching function of the relays, but when the spoiler is fully up, I can still hear the motor continuing to turn and the gears slipping inside the rear mechanism. The gears will eventually strip and I'll end up with a bigger problem, so any thought on this nuance would be greatly appreciated. Many thanks, Dave
  7. PPI at Porsche dealer. Ask for LN serial number, LN can confirm when it was purchased. Also ask for old bearing, I saved mine.
  8. Get the CEL code again and post. Before you proceed, either DIY or shop, we can help you narrow this down. I certainly would want to know specifically and exactly that this is the problem before chasing ghosts and replacing parts. Also, what year and model? Other recent maintenance or problems? There are other valves and components in the evap system to consider. See here Carbon Canister WWW.AUTOATLANTA.COM
  9. Current seller bought on ebay in 2017, I found this info from previous seller: LN engineering single row retrofit pro IMS bearing just installed along with new clutch, flywheel, flywheel bearing, throw out bearing, rear main seal. New IMS bearing rated to last another 75k miles. Oem Fuchs clutch installed. Brakes have been cleaned & inspected. Everything that can go wrong with this car has already been addressed. These repairs were done last week in preparation for sale. Excellent condition. No dents or dings. Perfect seats. No interior flaws. Has porsche 997 19" oem lobster claw wheels in perfect condition with Michelin pilot sports. Only 57,000 miles. New alpine 8" navigation unit, oem bose sound system. Upgraded fabspeed catalytic converters, upgraded interior led lights, body colored interior console and dash trim, cleanest c4s you will find. Clean Carfax, no accidents. No rust. Owned by Porsche enthusiast
  10. Looking at a 2002 4cs coupe, Silver of Black Leather. 87k msrp. Car has 69k miles. Ad claims upgraded exhaust, short shifter and ims (Parts upgraded in 2016: Idler pulley, Flywheel, drive shaft flex disc, pilot bearing, IMS, new clutch kit, larger coolant container). This was all done by the prior owner himself per current owner (and driven 10k miles since). Owner is looking for $26k. Seems to be reasonable. PPI company or dealer to inspect? Other comments appreciated
  11. Thank you so much works fine!
  12. I'm a little surprised that both front and rear have both failed and not working - is their a common denominator?
  13. Hi, does anyone know the correct routing for the hood release cable (NOT emergency cable) on an early 996 or Boxster? On my car I'm refitting the arch liner, and there are two rubber grommets on the hood release cable. These are positioned near the fuel filler pipe like in these images below: I'm pretty sure they were attached to... something? I can't figure out what they originally fixed to, or is this cable just left flapping about above the arch liner?
  14. Check out this thread. Not saying this is your problem but definitely a possibility. https://rennlist.com/forums/996-forum/861911-stuck-lifter-symptoms-misfire-on-cylinder-4-intermittent.html
  15. I had a similar issue. The short version is to use the correct(ask!) grade of oil and drive the car gently if the rattle is slight. I replaced all my lifters twice and finally gave up and just drove it ! It eventually became silent. I think the lifters had bled down and were just slow at pumping up again -maybe ?
  16. I’ll look at cam deviation in durametric .If I run rpm up it clears up and runs fine . Does not make any noise like lifter or broken spring . Thank you Ahsai for your input
  17. gnmor - when refilling there is a special procedure .If you don't follow it you may get air-locks and that is not good. Check the Pelican diy for more.
  18. Thanks for the correction - I'm too timid .:-)
  19. VZA - There is a separate thread (that I can't find- sorry) that has the "Actual Values" you need to see when you use Durametric. Make sure your new Durametric has all the updates before you use it. When you use Durametric to activate the solenoid , you can definitely hear/feel the subtle change in the engine.
  20. Wait! I had this issue resolved through my local Porsche dealership - they slightly loosened a nut in the selector mechanism and lubricated it, and it fixed it completely. This was over five years ago and it has never returned.
  21. Yesterday
  22. I saw the service manual and the detail and instructions were lacking to say the least. Now I know why the Rennlist poster paid $2000 for the replacement at his shop.
  23. The only one that I am familiar with is from the factory service manuals, but that cannot be reproduced here as it is copyrighted intellectual property.
  24. Hi Toby, I used this as a general guide, it should be very similar to any valved exhaust you plan on installing. Hope it helps! I hope they don't mind installation links here - Akrapovic Install
  25. Thanks for the response I will replace the cable then. Wish me luck!
  26. In the meantime you may also want to attach a vacuum gauge at the intake vacuum to see if the needle are bouncing. That will tell you something mechanical is bad such as a burnt valve, broken valve spring, bad lifter, etc.
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