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  1. Past hour
  2. Hi, Thanks for that thread, will give it a try. Seems no additional reprogramming was needed on the earlier MY's. Do you remember if you had to reprogram anything using a PWIS or PS2? thanks again v
  3. Today
  4. My wife and I did that swap with her 2001 base Boxster about... geez, 12 years ago. She really wanted an oil pressure gauge. :-) I picked one up off of Ebay for $160. We then took it over to our local instrument cluster shop (which worked on VDO) and had them change the odometer. They didn't give us much of an issue about it, since we actually added 20,000 miles to it so it'd match our current Boxster mileage. Then I came home from work one day, and the garage door was open, and my wife had the dash taken apart, the old cluster out, and was fashioning space for the new cluster into the housing with a dremel! She had bits of plastic all over her. It's one of those times when you just KNOW you married the right girl! My understanding is that the Boxster clusters differ, so for a 1999 the xfer might not work. Here's an old thread discussing it:
  5. "My passenger side door lock is acting up. The car has been giving the characteristic 'double-honk' when locking and unlocking for a while and the window doesn't stay down the tiny bit it's supposed to when the door is open. It was on the list to fix this month. Shortly before the engine started cutting out, the 'double-honk' started sounding while driving and often. Could the problem be alarm/lock related? " I am currently going through this process. I can tell you what I have learned so far. The ' lock followed by a double honk followed by the locks unlocking' is a symptom that a door locked sense switch is malfunctioning. Supposedly a durametric diagnosis would point to the door with a malfunction. There are 3 (or maybe 4 I don't recall the exact number) additional microswitches in the door lock assembly that sense if the handle if pulled up (tells the window to drop down (5mm?), a lock/unlock sense switch, and...I forget the others at the moment. The 'shotgun' approach to solving the problem is to buy the door lock assembly....$300 from pelican. Depending on your model year, there are 'Volkswagen equivalent' door lock mechanisms that sell for about $150ish. The trick is finding the part number cross from the Porsche number to the VW number. There is the used door latch mechanism approach that goes for $50-100 depending on the recycler. Finally there is the DIY disassembly the door latch and replace all the microswitches yourself approach. You can find information in all of these on this forum and other Porsche and even Volkswagen and Audi forums. Be prepared to spend a lot of time googling to get a clearer picture of things. I have a posting in this forum where a fellow outline the problem and included pictures - search under my user name. Personally, I am going to disassembly my door latch assembly in the next 1-2 weeks and determine the part number of the existing and suitable replacement switches. There is nothing special about them. They are supplied by Cherry Switch and Burgess (Johnson switch). I personally refuse to spend $600 on two door latches when I can rebuild them for no more than $50 worth of parts and 2-4 hrs of my time. BTW, there is a 'trick' to lock the car with the symptoms you describe. Close all the doors and manually lock the car and after you hear the locks energize, turn the key to the lock position 3 times very quickly. This is emergency procedure to lock the vehicle. It basically signals the control module to override/ignore the door open switch and keep the locks closed. You may be able to hit the lock on the key FOB 3 times to have the same effect-it did not work on my 97 boxster. Good luck J
  6. Yes, the control unit got wet a few years ago, but I dried it out and was able to clean it up. It has been dry now for 3 years. The control unit has been working fine up to now. Do you think a Porsche dealer or independent shop would be able to diagnosis this problem with more sophisticated software?
  7. I have the same problem but it is in the rear and thought it was the lower control arm. I changed it. Same. I am going to change out the control arm link. As for front stabilization my 986 does have vibration at high speeds so I will add new sway bar bushings and both drop links. On my truck a sway bar link was bad but I could not see it from inside the assembly. Once I changed the link all the vibration stopped. I noticed that much of my problem in the 986 seems to occur at low speed in the rear so it might be your drop links. That sway bar has a great deal to do with stability and vibration seems to point it out if it is coming from one side. I am going with the bushing mainly because it is the entire front end.
  8. Ok thanks! Was beginning to worry that no one has done this DIY. I just dont' want to get to a point where I can't go forward or backward.. if you know what I mean..
  9. If it is not resetting after a turn then it is likely broken and needs replacement - sorry.
  10. Yesterday
  11. Just purchased my first Porsche -a 1998 Boxster with 58,000 miles, manual. My turn signal stalk is also not resetting. I'm looking to repair/replace the piece. The pics are helpful. I also found a YouTube video which shows how to remove the steering wheel. BTW, this forum is awesome! Very helpful!
  12. Was considering a 996 cluster upgrade for my 1999 Boxster base. There is some confusion as to whether the cluster needs to be reprogrammed to work in the boxster. I know mileage correction is necessary but there's talk about adding Vin # and enabling the volt and oil pressure gauges bla...bla. Some mention of Palo Alto Speedometer reprogramming but not sure what they need, I don't have original key codes... some say it is needed to reprogram the cluster. Any thoughts? thanks v
  13. I REMOVED FACE PLATE ON RADIO AND WIPED CONTACTED WITH A RAG AND WORKED AFTER THAT
  14. I installed a new clutch package, albeit a custom package to fit my LS3 engine, however, the entire clutch system is the same. Like Joe said there is no adjustment. In my case, I went from a low engagement position to a high one and everything was the same less 25,000 miles. I didn't replace the clutch due to wear, but because a piece of metal got trapped between the pressure plate and the clutch disc. Not sure you realize the pressure plate only moves about .040". Anyway, I had a terrible time getting use to the new location of engagement and it was either in or out, now it is broken in and I'm becoming use to the new engagement point life is good. Remember a high clutch position is better than a low one. When you have a low engagement means a clutch job is probably in your future...
  15. Sorry if this is a dumb question, but I recently received my Fastrak Flex in the mail. I plan on installing it in the Boxster tonight, but I've never had one, and I'm a bit confused of how I should set the switch (1,2,3+) for passengers. Obviously for just "me", it'd be "1"... But if I have a passenger, do I set the switch to "2", or bump it to "3+" since I'm essentially a carpool at that point? Anybody have experience with these things? Thanks!
  16. Hi, Have checked the coolant level - all ok light sometimes starts to flash even before up to temperature. suspect it may be the temperature sender unit - looking for a part number. also Coolant resavoir cap - this is blue 996.106.447.00 - what do the latter 2 digets repress ? ( year) the car is a 2000,
  17. You have to drop the engine to the crossmember to remove the intake manifolds. There really is no other way. You also have to remove the AC compressor and lay it to one side. Leave the AC lines attached. Yes, once you use a turkey baster (not your wife's but one dedicated in the shop) to empty the power steering fluid, twist the filler tube by hand and it will release. And things others explain, like "remove the intake manifold bolts", doesn't actually explain how hard it is to reach and unbolt the last remaining manifold bolt next to the firewall. Or how to get to the third AC compressor bolt Why would you remove the passenger side intake manifold for vacuum lines? There is only one vacuum line that goes through the manifold to the fuel pressure regulator. That one is simple.
  18. Hey Loren, If you get a chance, can you help me out with an unlock code? 2002 Boxster base CDR-220 Type: 4462 Serial: 15003179 Thanks!
  19. If you haven't already, it'd be a good idea to get a hold of the Bentley service manual (101 projects for your 996 by Pelican Parts - not as thorough as Bentley). I've only removered the intake runners after I dropped the engine, so I can't speak directly to your situation. I can tell you this - it's going to be a pain in the butt! You might be better off dropping the engine at least a few inches...Good luck
  20. I am a pretty solid mechanic, and I have done lots of engine overhauls and timing belts, but this job pushed me to my breaking point. I was able to cook up the right combination of tools to get the driver's side rear triple square out, and removed the intake, and replaced all the seals. But for the life of me, I cannot get the intake to go back in place and line up the fuel rail. I attempted this for 7 hours before just giving up. First off, let me say, that the decision to put the fuel rail though the intake was completely unnecessary and maniacal. They could have just added a couple extra/separate bolts on the bottom of the intake and this job would have been 100 times easier. There seems to be no way to get the fuel rail nipple to seat back into the pump, and get it back into the holes for the intake. It will only side into my intake holes just perfectly, and there is no way to line it up like that once its attached to the pump. I tried this countless times. I also cannot get the fuel line to go down the 1/2" to slip inside the pump sleeve if the fuel rail is inside the intake. So I feel like I only have a couple options. First would be to remove the pump, and try to install that separately, which seems like more of a pain. Or make a flexible high pressure fuel line between the pump and the fuel rail. That would make this job so much more simple. I am completely out of ideas, and for now, the Cayenne is just sitting in my garage waiting for completion. I will take any advice I can get. I can easily get the intake and fuel rail back in place with the fuel line sitting directly next to the pump port, but no way to get it inside.
  21. Top shock mounts, front and rear they degrade over time too. Sorry should have explained better.
  22. Unfortunately, the problem with DIY on AC systems is the cost of the proper service equipment; to properly vent one of these systems, you need a recovery unit which can cost well north of $3K, a vacuum pump to properly evacuate the system before charging, oil and dye injectors for service, and an accurate pressure gauge system for evaluation its performance. All this hardware is usually well out side the budget of all but the most serious DIY'er.
  23. My apologies, missed a digit in the S/N. Below is the corrected S/N. BE2182 W5010609
  24. Like JFP said...take it to a pro. The compressors are pretty robust. It is the electro-magnetic clutch and friction plate that take a beating. One simple test is to engage the AC with the engine running and visually check the compressor to see if the pulley is spinning. Do not touch it with the engine running. In fact, check all the pulleys and belt at the same time.
  25. You risk major problems. If you are unsure how much oil is in the system, it can be flushed clean with a special solvent and than recharged from scratch, but that takes special equipment.
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