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All Activity

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  1. Past hour
  2. Thanks JFP. I checked clearances this morning and nothing is close to touching.
  3. Today
  4. Steve, I installed a short shift kit in my 2003 996 and at the same time changed out the shift knob for a Rennline aluminum billet knob. I can't remember who's short shift kit I used, but the shift pattern was a much better pattern. The factory shift was mostly plastic, the aftermarket shift was billet aluminum. I did have to sew up a new vinyl boot...
  5. Hi guys, I have started keeping my 996 02 Targa in a garage that requires traversing a bumpy entry. To the point one front wheel lifts about 2 inches off the ground at one point.... Is there any concern over twist with this happening on a regular basis? I go very slow, just concerned about the repetition of it. Thanks.
  6. When locking my 2005 Cayenne the led for the alarm status is saying there is a fault in the system (It flashes rapidly for 2 seconds, stays lit for 28 seconds and then flashes slowly) the manual says this indicates a fault in the system, can anybody point me in the right direction as to pinpoint where the problem or issue might be?
  7. Trying to erase some codes (brake pads,ABS, and ! )that Ive fixed..whats a cheap scan tool to erase them please?
  8. 1999 Boxster CDR-220 Type: 4462 Serial: X5018991 Thank you in advance
  9. Yesterday
  10. Hello! Would be so happy if you could help me with the code too.. 2000 boxster CDR-22 type: 4467 serial: Y5023319 Thank you// Sebastian
  11. Hello all, Would appreciate advice on correct engine oil pressure at idle when car is up to temperature. MY 2001 3.4 C4. Oil P at start up goes to 5+ then gradually reduces when engine up to temp. Pressure varies accordingly with engine revs My car shows 0.7 > 1 bar on the gauge at idle (oil levels are good 5/40 wgt) any advice on possible culprits or whether this can be remedied or whether this is normal
  12. Check this post for reference. Some good info Fuel System Testing - Rennlist - Porsche Discussion Forums RENNLIST.COM 993 Forum - Fuel System Testing - This thread is going to be about testing the fuel system. In Part 1, instructions are given for checking fuel pressure and...
  13. Update: I measured fuel pressure on the fuel rail. It's odd... When turning the key without starting the engine, the fuel pump builds up a pressure somewhere between 5 and 25ish psi (it's inconsistent). However, when I pull the key out of the ignition switch and put it back in and turn without starting the engine, the pressure builds up to around 40ish. Pressure is stable over long periods of time. When I turn on the car, the pressure does one of two: 1) moves to ~44-46 psi and stays there as the engine revs or idles or 2) moves to 30-35ish. As the engine revs, the pressure can be 'pumped' up to 44-46 psi and stays there even when the engine idles. Fuel regulator looks good; no gas in vacuum line or coming out of regulator. When vacuum line is removed, the pressure jumps - as expected - to 55ish. Pressure lowers to 44-46 when vacuum line is plugged back in. Here's the kicker: when turning the engine off, the pressure INCREASES over time from 44-46 to over 50 psi! Could this be a clogged fuel filter (pressure high on upstream side of filter and low on the rail side; after turning the engine off pressure evens out over time)? Bad fuel pump?
  14. I made some progress too...the trick to reattaching the fuel line is to do it before the intake manifold is bolted back in, so as to have just enough wiggle room to get the fittings in tight and secure. Then, tighten the intake M1O bolts. I was doing well until an M10 bolt fell into the engine, now I can’ find it. This project has been a curse that I wish I never put upon myself...
  15. I attempted to upload some photos, but the site would not allow it. There is way way more room, and you can see everything easily. So, it is certainly more work, but I think in the end it will be less time, and hopefully remove some of the massive hangups people have been hitting. I am going to attempt to replace the coolant tee, since I removed all the lines anyway.
  16. I made progress today, but it meant a lot more work. I drained the coolant and removed the alternator. I also removed most of the high pressure fuel pump lines, but that didnt seem to be necessary. With the alternator and coolant lines out of the way, I was pretty quickly able to put the top side of the curved fuel line into the seat of the top rail. Then like the write up, I had enough room to reach under it and get the fuel rail back through the intake manifold. I did have to pitch the manifold up toward the driver side to get the right angle, but everything went back together with that little bit more room to operate.
  17. Hi DK570, how many miles do they have on them?
  18. This is what I have in mind. I thought I would get a set, because as these cars are getting older it might be harder to get them. I know you can always order all the parts, but the price will be the question. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  19. My shift pattern emblem was taken from my 996C, hopefully by someone who can use it on their own Porsche. ‘Regardless, can someone help with where a replacement can be found. A plain plastic insert will work as well as one with a pattern or symbol. The thought of replacing the shifter with a solid billet with engraved pattern has crossed my mind, so I would also appreciate any input concerning that. I thank you in advance for any help. Steve
  20. *** update *** after writing my previous post, I pulled fuse number 8 (in engine bay) and the noise stopped. Put the fuse back in and the annoying sound returned. Out again and the sound stopped. Fuse 8 controls ‘Tank vent valve “ and a few other things. I guess I have a faulty tank vent valve. Now I need to figure out how to get to it and replace it.....
  21. Thanks Loren. After some more research, I thought of pulling the fuel pump fuses to see if the noise is coming from either of the two fuel pumps. It’s not. I pulled fuse 13 first, the noise remained and the car stalled after about 15 seconds. I put fuse 13 back in, started the car, waited for the sound to start again which it did after idling for about a minute, then I pulled out fuse 14. The engine kept running but the sound still remained. Listening to it some more today, it sounds like a vacuum valve or some sort of a vacuum related sound. My car does not have the exhaust/muffler valves that activate in sports mode. Is there any other vacuum valve or something similar in the tank?
  22. Please help...Just curious if someone can help me identify the ports I have circled in the pics I attached. I'm assuming they would be for antenna, XM etc. Just want the exact diagram. I installed an aftermarket radio and I know I don't have the BOSE sound system but I'm curious if one of those connections are for an amp. I'm not getting any sound out of my new radio.
  23. Last week
  24. Hi Jonhattan, I am in the exact same place you are. I reinstalled the intake and all went well except for that stupid flare fitted solid line which connects the lower fuel rail to the fuel pump. I spent the entire day trying to retighten those two fittings, and got fuel leak each time, either on pump side or lower rail side. There is zero space to work there, so I can only use two fingers, and had to grind a wrench to make it fit there. I bent the hard line to make it fit better, but maybe that was a mistake... I also thought about making a flexible high pressure line to make the job easier. Let me know if you go that route or where up you end up. So close...It almost feels like this was designed by some sadistic German engineer to torture people trying to work on their Cayenne. Aurelien
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