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  2. Not sure which code scanner you have. Not all scanners can clear codes or its dependent on the model. Are you a PCA member? Maybe someone in the club has a Durametric Pro / Foxwell NT510/520 or similar setup that can try to clear the code for you. Definitely try to get the code cleared first and go from there. This is a known issue back to when the 997 was first sold.
  3. Today
  4. 2009 997.2 P1484 CODE
  5. Hello and thanks for the reply, No I hadn't waxed it and the trunk opens fine, really no issues with the car, the new scanner wont release this code, and its spose to be one of the best, got it from Pelican
  6. This is why I suggested checking the pressure with a known mechanical tester before moving foward. When you say the wire from the sensor to the cluster is good, how did you check it? It is entirely possible the cluster gauge itself is bad. If it is, I don't know of anyone that repairs individual gauges, so you would be up for replacing the cluster, which is coded to the DME, so you are going to need access to a factory computer (PIWIS) to complete the replacement.
  7. I suppose so. I'll take the headlight apart this weekend and get back to you all about my findings 馃檪
  8. Loren Thank you very much; it worked. Car must have had a new radio at some stage. Wonderful help. Julian
  9. I think the Michelin PS2's or PS2 Cup are the defacto standard for (warm weather) track use.
  10. Got the oil pressure tester today and hooked it up. Oil pressure seems good. 6 bars idle, cold engine. 2,4 bars idle on warm engine. As mentioned the pressure sensor is replaced with no luck. Wire to the cluster seems good. Any suggestions on how to move on from here?
  11. I'm told from other sources that the pcm will need coding for the camera to work, it's in on the 21st May for other work so I'll have it looked at then.
  12. Hi I hope you can help. Fitted a new battery to my 996C4 cab; the radio code that was written in the manual does not appear to work. It is a Becker CDR22, type 4467. Serial number is X5015756. Many thanks in advance. Julian
  13. 路 Model year ~ 1997 路 Model/Engine ~ Boxster 2.5 路 Transmission type ~ 5 speed 路 Interior color ~ Blue 路 Country specific information ~ USA Hello I have been looking for the information on the blue/white for the C harness all night, wire since I am also installing a Sony MEX-GS820BT. when I found this!!! This is the most helpful Thread so far. I have the 101 Projects for your Boxster and looked on Pelican with no definitive answer. THANKS Bill Lapp and Richard Hamilton !!!
  14. Under DME, actual values, same place you read the cam deviation. It's called "actual cam angle". If you select graphical display, Durametric will plot the values in real-time. Then you just rev the engine and see how the readings change. Your variocam is on/off so the actual should change cleanly and quickly at the transition points. No idea how 7.5 cam degrees translate to lining up with the cam cover seam but probably noticeable. You need to turn the crank at least that many times to recheck timing in case something has shifted.
  15. OK..lot of info...first off how do I plot the cam angle...would be interested in that.. Yes I did use blue Loctite...don't think I turned it over 6 times. I'd be lucky if the timing just slipped that would be an easy fix but I'm doubtful. If my cam is off by 7.5 degrees how does that translate to what lines up with cam cover seams....is it noticeable or microscopic? Thanks again v
  16. That worked, thank you so much!
  17. Did you do a top calibration after the repair? If not, then I would do that - use either PIWIS or Durametric.
  18. Loren receiving the codes (and quite quickly too I may add ... ) make the annual membership more than a bargain!! And what a great sound system Porsche has included in these amazing cars. Thank you once again Sir! Can't wait to get it on the road (any day now), doubt I'll be listening to the radio much for the first little while : ) Cheers
  19. Yesterday
  20. 2004 Cayenne Turbo- I could use some help figuring out the source of a leak and how it managed to kill both the radio head unit and the sub. A week ago the PCM 2 head unit stopped working. Black screen and no sound output. Checked all the fuses and all were good. Upon closer inspection I noticed the screen on the head unit and buttons would glow slightly when the power button was pressed. A few days later I happened to be under the loading truck floor because I needed the tool to remove a headlight. That's when I noticed the water. It looks like there was about 2-3 inches of water at the bottom of the wheel well. I removed the sub and discovered that the amp and associated wiring had been submerged. There is not rust anywhere so I am thinking this was recent. I am assuming this is what killed the head unit....but is it? I need to discover the source of the water (it has rained here quite a bit) and decide on the best course of action. Replace head unit and sub with new aftermarket or buy used and put it back together with OEM parts. As I side note, my windshield washer pump also died about the same time. Anyone have an opinion on the source of the water and whether to go aftermarket or OEM on the replacement radio? Thanks
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