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  1. Today
  2. Possible, a lot depends on the used charger type, there are chargers that only charge and others that first partially discharge the battery and only than start the charging cyclus. What you can do is start by closing the car with the remote and depending on whether it is a daily driver or not, use the car every two or three days. You will than notice that the battery has enough power or not, i think you are needlessly concerned.
  3. Hi guys. Just thought I’d provide a further update with this issue in case you haven’t solved it. I ended up replacing the driver’s side tuning fork on mine with the upgraded EPS version. At first, this did not seem to solve the issue as it still kept knocking at slow speed after warming up. This only lasted for about 100km though and has been quiet since now for a few months. I’m still baffled by the problem as you would think that the replacement would immediately solve it if that part is the problem but it didn’t do this in my case. I’ll update this again if anything changes, but it’s quiet for the time being, touch wood! cheers, Terry
  4. Welcome to RennTech Most 2000 and many 2001 M96 engines were dual row engines, which created the problem that the only way to know which style was used was to pull the transmission, clutch, and flywheel and haves a peek. There is no other proven method to tell you which version was used during the 2000-2001 transition period. If the engine was replaced with a factory unit, it would carry the letters “AT” on the engine number on the sump rail, and the number will reveal its year of assembly; all reman engines produced after 2004 carry the oversized non serviceable third design IMS.
  5. Yesterday
  6. Thank you. That is what I have learned as well. I'm really trying to give the 996 seller the benefit of extra research, to prove (or ?) his statement that this has a factory big bearing IMS, 'according to the engine serial number'. Really hoping to find some reliable factory records that would confirm that, cause it's very cool ride, otherwise not.
  7. Based on all the info i have read, you can't determine the ims being used from an external examination. Only a tear down. It is pretty doubtful that a 2000 has a double row bearing since the majority were only placed in 1999. Also, if the engine was replaced, whatever ims bearing that was available at that time was used. So, it could be one of three types.
  8. Have owned many Porshes since mid 60's, none at this time but shopping. Considering a specific early 2000 996 Carerra C4. Is there a way to determine for certain from the engine serial number whether it has the dual-row IMS bearing (from the factory), or the single-row IMS prone to failure? Thank you.
  9. ECU Doctors can help if the immobilizer needs waking up. For in the future, they have a waterproof box for the immobilizer. Since the immobilizer sits in a well under the seat, it is most prone to getting wet. If the seat is not responding to fore and aft movements to loosen the floor bolts, let me know. There is another way to get under the drivers seat. Porsche 996 (1999) WWW.ECUDOCTORS.COM Porsche, BMW, Ferrari - We'll make any used ECU work - Send us your damaged ECU and we'll TEST and REPAIR your unit and send it back to you with our 5 YEAR WARRANTY.
  10. You do as he said above, pull it, dry it out (we rinse them with isopropyl alcohol and then bow them dry with dry compressed air). Be sure to check the small fuse on the side of the unit as they often blow when it gets wet, then reinstall it. It is like a light bulb, it either works or it doesn't. You would need a PIWIS system to test it, and a dealer will happily sell you a new one, with programming, for around $700+. Normally, once dried out, they come back to life just fine.
  11. Thank's Yes I agree the unit under the drivers seat certainly got wet. I'm going to access the unit. Then I've been going through the car and have pulled several connections and using a high quality electronics spray cleaner, dryer, etc. Then apply a touch of dielectric grease on plugs etc. not sensitive electronics though on to help protect and slow corrosion. What test or how do you determine if the unit under the seat is trashed? Is there a way to check resistance, voltage, etc with a multi-meter to determine if the controller is fried. Or is there a specific test that the dealership would perform to determine if the unit requires replacement. And no not like throwing it in a bucket of water and if it sinks you need a new one.
  12. Ps: unless you plan to turn off a few systems, the enthusiasts Durametric may be a better deal. It will for sure turn off your false air bag light. Or, check around, there may be someone around who will let you use their pro. Again, good luck.
  13. Agreed. Immobilizer likely trashed. Common problem with water under driver seat. Good luck.
  14. You did not read the Lost Radio Code FAQ... "CDR-23 (or later): These radios do not have a security code - that is, not that the user enters. These radios are security tested on the MOST (fiber optic bus) system to see if they are the "programmed" radio. The radios are programmed and recognized by the car’s DME and can only be replaced by a shop with a PST2 or PIWIS. These radios will not request a code when battery power is disconnected."
  15. I hope someone can help with my code. I replaced my battery and now the radio is asking for a code. Here's my info: BECKER TYPE CDR23 SER: 25011313 36/02 Thanks very much in advance. : D
  16. If the carpet behind the drivers seat is wet, then surely the carpet UNDER the drivers seat is wet, and that is where the immobilizer/alarm system is. If you can, remove the drivers seat (loosen floor bolts and tip it backwards) and get the immoblizer unit out. Dry it and place it in a canister of dry rice for several days. Remove the carpeting and get it dry. If you can, put a dehumdifier in the car and get it completely dry inside. Shop vac out moisture from the carpeting.
  17. I was caught in a rain storm while driving. Wrong turn and water got deep fast (Charleston SC, Common problem). Managed to keep going. The all wheel drive and Jeep experience helped. Car pushed through and never flooded. However the carpet behind the driver seat got wet. As soon as I exited the water the rear wing started going up and down. After getting home and higher ground the following systems started malfunctioning. It has been several weeks now. -The reverse lights will not come on therefore back up camera not working. -Neither the front hood or rear engine lids will open with door sill switches. The key fob will open front trunk. When jumped the switch still won't open front. Rear wing will not do anything and stuck in up position. At 75 mph fault light comes on. -Lock center of dash will not lock doors while in car. -Alarm will not arm. I'm going to purchase the Durametric (sp) pro this week. I Have checked all fuses and they are good. I'm in the process of a coil over upgrade from stock and have the computer and relay panel accessible in the rear of the car. I have tried leaving battery disconnected for a day. I have pulled number 40 fuse. None of this has changed anything. Any input as to what to test and where to start would be appreciated. I know several of the items are on the same circuit.
  18. all is said! it would be very interesting! thanks!
  19. Ahhhhhhhh, good point...no I don’t lock the car with the remote...could that be causing the 20 min charge time on a fully charged battery? Is there a way to verify this could be why I am seeing what I am seeing? Thanks
  20. the battery is renewed. however, the day after, the car had the same problem. wont started. Only can hear the click sound from the starter, but the car wasnt started. the funny thing is I release the e-brake, then pushed a little bit backward the car. and the car was started. I really have no idea about what I had done to make it started....... really stranger for me. after few days driving, check engine light was on twice, and also battery light was on twice. However, they all gone the next day. Driving is good right now. dont seems anything strange. I dont run the scanner yet. but I can tell there should be some codes, because the time it wont started.
  21. Do you lock the car with the remote ? This is necessary to get the systems into sleep mode after some time, for minimum power consumption.
  22. Ok. Need help. Rebuild is done. Need code. CDR-220 Model: 4462 Sreial: Y5051984 Thanks ahead of time.
  23. Actually I had already purchased an OEM Porsche window regulator. I was not sure if having it installed or not, because the existing window regulator had been working reasonably well recently. But the glass was not dropping, when opening the door, and considering that the regulator lasted 20 years, I decided to have it replaced. The job was done by an independent Porsche mechanic today and everything is fine. Also the door lock was repaired. It was my intention to do the lock myself, but it proved to be too much of a job for me. Thanks for all the advice provided.
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