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  1. Past hour
  2. Ok, guess that's that then. Any idea roughly how much i'd get for my current used exhaust? It looks like it's in pretty good nick and installed within the last 2-4 years. In hindsight, should have thought about the practicality of this exhaust on the test drive. But it was sweet to my ears at 3500-6000rpm and I didn't have a chance to cruise at 70+ in 6th! Live and learn I guess 🙂 With the top down its fine, maybe opening the windows slightly will help when i've got the top up. Really appreciate your responses.
  3. It would be a bit of a nightmare to convert a non switchable exhaust to a switchable version. The factory has bypass pipes welded inside the muffler to facilitate the two pathways, the system you have does not, so they would have to cut it apart and weld them in. I think that would end up costing you more than just buying the real thing and selling the unit you have.
  4. You need an air compressor to operate the Uview and create vacuum. If you pressured the tank and the level dropped, you just proved you have air in the system. Air is compressible, coolant is not, which is why the level changed. The system should hold pressure at 18 PSIG, if it drops lower, it is leaking. Bleeder valves are known to do this.
  5. Regarding the vacuum filler: I rented a pressure tester from autozone today. It has quick connect fitting that attaches to the expansion tank. I wonder if I could come up with a fitting from the hardware store that would attach. The U-view looks to be basically a ball valve with some fittings and a length of plastic hose? May try that later... In the meantime, last night I drove around. Car didn’t overheat but did have steam escaping the cap. The part number ends in -00 so I will order a new cap. I don’t think there should be steam escaping if the car is not overheated. I couldn’t pressure test the cap because none of the adapters fit the cap. Right now I am experimenting with the pressure tester. I pumped the cooling system up to 15 psi and as the pressure increase, the coolant level in the tank decreased. Is that normal? It started loosing pressure slowly but it looks like the pressure is escaping the bleeder valve. The metal pull tab isn’t doing anything because the pressure is causing the valve to pop up automatically. Is that normal? Seems to have leveled off at about 12 psi and not loosing pressure any further. When I let the pressure out, the coolant level comes back up and the bleed valve closes. Upon adding pressure again, the coolant goes down. Looks like the bleed valve starts to open at about 4 psi.
  6. Today
  7. I just bought a 2002 Boxster and disconnected battery without knowing it needed a code: model cdr 22 model 4467 serial 15002706
  8. Thank you for the goodwill to share this info, i'm sure there are people here who can do something with it. This is ultimately the purpose of the forum.
  9. Yeah he didn't say it was a factory part (i asked if it was OEM, he said no) but said it was a Porsche exhaust. Just trying to find out what it is so I can call up and ask some garages what they can do with it. Is there any way to change the existing exhaust I have to a switch? I just don't want it loud all the time, especially as I want to drive it on the motorway sometimes - perhaps taking it abroad for some touring, and the drone reverberates around the cabin quite a lot with the hood up. Any slight touch on the accelerator has a really deep, loud sound which i'm guessing vibrates the soft top. Perhaps I can dampen it out in the cabin with something against the cloth? Any suggestions at all? I might have to look into just getting a new exhaust put in from Porsche with a button, but anything to avoid spending £1500 would be amazing.
  10. Product ID : 1056 327 173 01 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  11. It might be interesting to post the part number, it can provide a solution for forum members with the same problem.
  12. Finally got the part and flushed the transmission. Now it runs and operates perfectly. Thanks so much. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  13. We use a Joma high pressure test kit, all stainless and Kevlar that is capable of reading 2,000 bar. Sells for about $750.
  14. Another tip: The reason for the barrel crimp connectors is to give a mechanical connection that doesn't fail if a wire gets overheated, on these low load circuits,, its not a deal breaker.. If you solder a pair of wires together, without the barrel, male sure to not over penetrate the solder, if it flows in side the wires insulation it can become a brittle joint, it also takes away the wires ability to flex. So vibration can fatigue it quicker.
  15. Well. I have the manifold loose. I can't seem to get the fuel pressure sensor plug off the sensor. That may be what is keeping it from coming loose. Any ideas how to take it off? I'll try to post pics .. almost got this off..
  16. Yesterday
  17. The recommended way of filling these cars with coolant is under vacuum, it is the way the dealer and any well equipped shop would do it specifically because of these issues. I would suggest shortcutting all the top off and run it folderol and take it to someone with a Uview vacuum filling system; once connected, it will all be over in about 5 min.
  18. Tried refilling again with the burp valve up (with distilled water for now). Still overheating after about 2 miles. The needle sorts of climbs slowly then gets jumpy and goes to the right. Looks like the tank could use more coolant. If I try to remove the cap, steam comes out and then the coolant level rises back up on its own and will overflow if I don’t replace the cap. So unable to put more coolant in. Now that the car has cooled down, I went out to Discover the tank was low and I could remove the cap and it stayed low. So I topped it off again. Do I need to just keep repeating this procedure of warming the car ip and letting it cool and refilling? The videos and writeups I have read about filling the coolant don’t really mention this problem. They make it seem like you can fill it up and drive normally (without overheating) and just keep topping it off over a few days.
  19. I bought a 1999 Boxster with 17,000 miles on it several years back. The engine sounded perfect until the first oil change. After that I started getting a tappet noise which DOVE ME CRAZY! The local Porsche dealer did the oil change. I brought it to another garage that specializes in Porsches and they ran lifter cleaner through it which did not help. The problem was this: when the engine was cold it was quiet but after I drive it for a while I could hear tappet noise with the top up, or when I was at an idle with the top down. When I revved the car the noise would go away for a short while. Finally, after this problem drove me crazy for three years I added Lucas synthetic oil stabilizer. If you are old enough to remember STP additive it appears similar to that, basically a really thick additive. I started the car after the oil change when Lucas was added and the lifter noise was gone. I stored the car last year and when I picked it up this year and since then, no lifter noise. Okay, maybe a couple of tappets are noisy for a second after starting but then quiet. I use 0-40 Mobile One synthetic. My guess it an increase in viscosity is allowing the lifters to operate like they are supposed to. I would guess that you can use any additive that increases viscosity as long as it is a synthetic additive. Looking back it makes sense. The old owner probably put an additive in the oil to quiet the lifters. When I had the oil changed it had stock oil and the lifters were noisy. When the car was warm the oil wasn't thick enough to make the lifters operate properly so they were noisy.. Also when I revved the engine the oil pressure would increase quieting the lifters. I would guess that a thicker oil may make it harder to keep oil in the IMS bearing? So use any oil additive at your own risk.
  20. I followed the same upgrade instructions on both my Carrera and my 2006 cayenne and all working great, pm me your email address
  21. I notice that TSB doesn’t mention Cayenne - so is it still valid for me?
  22. Ok so it would seem I need an upgrade! angusc - would you be able to help me with the upgrade files ? Thank in advance
  23. Correct, it is warm water returning from the radiators.
  24. I guess that could explain why that hose going “out” of the thermostat doesnt feel hot.
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