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  1. Past hour
  2. Just wanted to follow up and close the loop on this strange issue. I ended up throwing in the towel and took it to my local shop. There they diagnosed a cable to the alarm module was not plugged in correctly, which caused a lack of signal to the front trunk release, even though it had power. Plugging in this cable correctly instantly got the front trunk working again. They also found two frayed wires under the driver's seat and repaired those, though it was probably unrelated. During my troubleshooting, it appeared to me all the cables to the alarm module were nice and tight. About the only thing I didn't do was pull the thing out entirely to check. Maybe if I did I would have found the cable issue. I'm not quite sure how a cable gets plugged in incorrectly but it's solved now. One interesting tidbit. I didn't know the horn itself was supposed to honk in the event something was left open when locking the car. In my case, the interior lights would light up and a weak horn/squelch/chime sound was heard INSIDE the car. Having only owned the car a few months and this being my first Porsche, I thought maybe this was normal. When the car returned from the shop, the headlights flashed and the horn honked...i.e normal operation. The shop diagnosed this cause as being a failed glovebox microswitch. Sure as ****, when I pulled the glovebox I discovered the microswitch was indeed broken and the previous owner tried fixing it by wadding a bunch of electrical tape around it. UGH! To top things off, the little mount for the microswitch is missing, so a $2 part must now be shipped from Germany. Dealer wasn't able to find any in the US. Thanks to all who contributed to this thread, while we weren't able to solve the problem 100%, I learned a LOT about the car, item locations, what fuses do what, etc. Invaluable knowledge for the future. I also in turn was able to help out a fellow Renntech member in Germany with getting his front trunk open via the emergency cable. So, I passed on some knowledge 🙂
  3. Noted! Mechanical pressure gauge ordered. Will update when I have actual oil pressure values.
  4. I recently did this job (coincidentally also on a 2003 Targa!) and it was exactly like you just described. You gotta have that XZN before you start. It is definitely a job of patience but really isn't too difficult. One thing I noticed was that the old assembly had an extra plastic piece on that was pretty good size while the new one didn't. I didn't swap it over as it made the install much easier with a tad more room. Was that the same for you?
  5. Today
  6. FYI _ I have a 2005 Cayenne turbo, and was quoted 100 CAD by Porsche for a replacement Washer pump - I took it out and discovered it was a VW part 1K6 955 651 - VW parts sold it to me for 62 CAD. Porsche parts technician confirmed it was the exact same thing - so I'm happy I got it cheaper but not so happy about Porsche adding $40 to it (and they said they would have to order it and will take a week) VW had 5 in stock and if you want to chance it many places offer third party replacements.
  7. 2010 997 2 C4S - very similar to yours I think. Sent from my LYA-L09 using Tapatalk
  8. Yes, we are talking about the front diff, as it sits under the fuel tank.. How hard is obviously related to how well you are equipped and your mechanical expertise.
  9. 2003 C4S I took it to a local shop that said he had Porsche software but turns out he does not .He was unclear how vario cam system worked so not in a hurry to go back to him .
  10. That’s what I was afraid of. So is dropping the axle a tough job? Would the axle be the same thing as the differential? Sorry I’m being so stupid but suspension is definitely not my area of expertise.
  11. Item #17 in diagram: On 4 wheel drive cars, the front axle may be in the way.
  12. Hey I'm looking for a lost radio code. BECKER 1 TYPE 4462 01/99 SERI W5002872 Thank you for the help
  13. I would put a mechanical pressure gauge on it before doing anything else; you need to know what the actual pressure is before doing anything else.
  14. Update: Oil filter cup and oil filter replaced. Oil pressure sender (switch) replaced. Oil pressure control piston, spring and crush washer replaced. All original parts. The problem still persists. Actually the low oil pressure warning light is steady on now when the engine is running. Of course I did not run the engine for more than a few seconds, but everything sounds normal. I cut the old oil filter open to check for metal debris - looks nice and clean. I do not have an oil pressure tester - but I measured on the oil pressure switch to check the oil pressure. When engine is not running, the switch is closed to ground. Engine started - the switch opens and break the circuit. A few seconds after turning off the engine, the switch closes to ground again. I guess this indicates normal oil pressure - as the operation of the oil pressure switch seems normal? The wire from the switch to the cluster ( White connector, pin no. 6) is fine - i checked that. Could this be a bad cluster issue?
  15. Does anyone know where this is located and is there a tutorial on how to replace? Fuel Tank Vapor Control Valve for charcoal canister 996-605-203-01-M244 Not sure where exactly it's located. Is it in the front passenger wheel well near the fuel filler vent valve? The symptoms I am having is gas smell in the car and lots of pressure when the gas cap is opened along with the check engine light. I forgot what code it was as I bought the part last year and not even really sure this will fix the issue. Saw a diagram showing that it is possibly located/connected to the fuel tank. How do I access this? A thread on rennlist mentioned a similiar issue that was fixed with this part. But the entire front end axle had to be dropped to access the tank? WTH? My car is a 1999 C4 btw.
  16. Anyone could have hooked up anything to this circuit; people do the damnedest things to electrical systems. Without looking at it, it is impossible to know.
  17. I had a good look in the boot wiring can see nothing obvious. Would an aftermarket stereo be linked into this. The wiring is abit all over behind there but when I pull the fuse on the stereo the drain doesn’t drop. Also. I have noted that the frunk and boot lights to not light at all. Could this be linked??
  18. What year is your 996? You may need to check the injector and coil signal with a scope. If those are normal, then it's likely a mechanical issue such as a bad lifter.
  19. Yes compression is good on all .All about 210 psi but # 6 a little weaker at 195 and plug shows a bit of oil .The codes are p0300 and p0304 . Miss fire clears up at higher rpm I have not done leak down test
  20. What are the cam deviations, FRA and RKAT on each bank? Just a sanity check...
  21. Have you performed any compression and leak down tests? What are the exact error codes?
  22. This is a Reoccurring issue I’ve had it keeps coming back always #4 .I have changed plugs/coils /Maf / injectors/ each time I change out a part it runs great and in a month or so cel on again
  23. A healthy reading should be less than 1 / second square at idle (after fully warmed up). Have you tried replacing your sparks plugs and coils? You can swap the coil with another cylinder and see if the misfire follows the coil. Did you just get the car with this problem or the problem just developed recently.
  24. I have a miss fire # 4 in rough running cylinder #4 is higher then the rest but not sure what reading is . All cylinders are about the same low # but #4 is 10 to 13
  25. Yes, you can monitor misfires on each cylinder in real-time. Also read FRA and RKAT (fuel trims) on both banks.
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