Jump to content
×
×

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

All Activity

This stream auto-updates     

  1. Past hour
  2. Hi Steve, I hope you don't mind me sending you a message directly but sounded like that you've changed your fuel vent line (at the intake manifold as there seems to be about 3 with similar part description) and wanted to pick your brain.  The part number I need to replace is 996.110.129.06 (I've got a 2004 Boxster S Anniversary Edition).  Anyway, how difficult was it to do this yourself?  I've got minimal experience but have been able to replace my AOS and starter, is it much more difficult than that?

     

  3. Ah I see - the UK is a little more forgiving when it comes to this sort of thing. It also helps if you know the MOT tester 😏 With headlights, as long as you have the correct beam pattern and have it adjusted to the correct height - you are fine. The daft thing is, as long as you have the correct spec at the time of the test, you are then free to go home and change it back again!
  4. It is more than just glare, my license to conduct what you would call an MoT inspection requires me to fail cars with modified headlights or headlights components that lack our DOT approval marking. Police here can also require the vehicle be towed and repaired to factory specs before being allowed back on the roads.
  5. Since your system was completely empty, you have to go with the total technical data amounts, not just what is calculated for the condensers.
  6. Today
  7. I currently only have a basic OBDII reader. It doesn't read alarm codes. I am researching getting something more advanced at a reasonable price point. It would be awesome with a device that could cover both my cars (Porsche Boxster and Mercedes Benz CLK350 that has a recent SRS error - just can't catch a break from these cars!). Autel? Any other directions to look?
  8. The car idles perfectly normally and steadily when I leave it turned on in my driveway. It typically cuts out after 20 min to an hour. Wouldn’t a failing fuel pump give varying fuel pressure and a resulting rough idle? Thank you for your advice; I’ll try and figure out how to run your suggested diagnostics. My boxster is a ‘learn-as-I-go’ project that I usually really enjoy. This time though, the car is parked for good in my garage, so a little less fun!
  9. Almost certainly a coding issue in my opinion, especially as you mention the PCM was changed.
  10. I can understand why reflector headlights can create glare when converted to HID but projector headlights are ideal for the conversion. I have done it a few times on different cars with no problems.
  11. Hi, both of my condensers were leaking, so I had replaced them. The system was already completely empty. A workshop refilled the system with 900g R-134a and only 5g oil. I doubt, that they have filled up enough oil. As per manual the total qty. is about 195g and about 20g remain in a single condenser. So for my understanding at least 2x20g of oil should be added for the replaced condensers and an amount for the oil that escaped together with the refrigerant. Am I wrong or what is the best procedure to determine the correct amount of oil. I think adding too much is also not a good idea? Thanks for any help!!!
  12. Thank you Reachme, that is an excellent suggestion. I'll check that out immediately and report back.
  13. Are you getting W Lead (Code 49 on the alarm ECU)? If the problem is that intermittent and only can occur in dangerous highway situations....quit driving the car till you can recreate it and safely diagnosis it in the safety of your driveway with a Autel, Duramatic, etc. If do you something and it just starts back up.. How can you confirm it was your repair or just time related to a magic restart? Since you can't, you must fail the part ala Dave and Hal From 2001 Space odyssey . (PS if you live near Houston I could help you with my Autel scan tool diagnosis all of the systems but beyond that I would buy one if I were you and plug it in and drive it till it happens). Also you can buy a cheap obd2 elm style bluetooth scan tool for your phone....and with Torque app just read basic info like fuel and ecm related stuff))
  14. It's fun to see after nearly a decade my original procedure is still going strong...if not hard to find! Wish I had all those old school files presented in a way better! I miss my 986 and hope to be back in one in the near future...just hope I don't need to cut open the air box again!
  15. Hi Steve, I had a Boxster with these symptoms exactly, start fine in the morning, warm up and then idle roughly, give it some throttle and seemed to run fine. On the odd occasion it wouldn't do it at all. I think it turned out to be the AOS, if I remember correctly you can effectively blank off the AOS, there is a tube coming from it which you can disconnect and then blank off both ends to test it, not sure if its the same on the 911. I know that this might not explain the codes though. Only other thing that might be worth a go would be to clean/disconnect the MAF, but again not sure how this could relate to codes. Hope you get it sorted.
  16. The code was correct and the radio is working fine, thanks. The contacts on the back of the radio must not have been making good contact, so the buttons 6 to 0 were not working. thanks for your help
  17. Having recently gone through a fuel pump replacement and a crankshaft position sensor replacement, I suggest going through the diagnosis process. Check the fuel pressure, check the fuel pump relay, short the relay and confirm the fuel pump is running. As a first timer for a fuel pump replacement, I had no idea what I was listening for but I can tell you that you can hear it whirl without any difficulty when it runs. You can also apply 12v directly to the pump to confirm if the pump is the issue. In my case, the CPS was not the problem, it was the fuel pump, but not having gone through it before all signs seemed to point to CPS. No tach jumps is more indicative of CPS but I would also make sure the fuel pump runs and is providing pressure before assuming it is the CPS. I use durametric and tried several generic obd2 readers with no luck. I’m not aware of any other good options for Porsche’s.
  18. Nothing special, jack, stands, torque wrench, 18 and 13 mm sockets, locktite. I supported the engine by jacking up the engine carrier while swapping out the mounts. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  19. New to the forum; 2000 Boxster (2.7L engine assembled in 1998; manual transmission, transmission code ends in 002 and is a topic for another day!). Engine recently started cutting out driving home from work. The engine cuts out with no warning (no 'roughing' etc). When it cuts out, it won't restart. Hours later, engine magically starts again and runs like nothing ever happened until cutting out again. The behavior is identical whether idling in my driveway or driving. It doesn't seem to be temperature related. The way the engine cuts out with no additional symptoms or warnings, I doubt it's a fuel pump issue? Could be a clogged fuel filter, but after a while the car starts up again with no apparent issues making me doubt it is a fuel filter issue? Crankshaft position sensor: when cranking my car the tachometer stays at 0 until the engine starts. So does my other car. I see several posts that the tachometer should show a reading as the engine cranks before but before it starts. This is not the case for my two cars. People also post that if it is a CPS problem, then the engine should start again right away? I would expect the fuel supply to be cut off if the CPS doesn't signal to the ECU? Could my problem be a failed CPS even though it doesn't seem to be temperature related? My passenger side door lock is acting up. The car has been giving the characteristic 'double-honk' when locking and unlocking for a while and the window doesn't stay down the tiny bit it's supposed to when the door is open. It was on the list to fix this month. Shortly before the engine started cutting out, the 'double-honk' started sounding while driving and often. Could the problem be alarm/lock related? Shortly before the engine started cutting out, I had a few instances of the key not turning easily in the ignition switch. I read that many weird issues can arise from a faulty ignition switch; I haven't found descriptions of engine stalls though. Could a faulty ignition switch be the problem? I do have a P0442 error code; have had it for a long time though. It comes and goes, and a fuel tank vent replacement is also on my list of upcoming fixes. I doubt that it has relevance to engine problem (?), but full disclosure. No other error codes on my OBDII. Any other suggestions? Lastly, if I wanted a computer that could read/reset everything to help diagnose the problem, what would be options within reasonable budgetary constraints? Any computers that would also work for my other car (Mercedes Benz CLK350)? Thank you for your time!
  20. I had noticed the additional inaccessible blend door with the same problem and just left it as it was. Thought it would prove too difficult to try taping it while still inside the duct. As for the top of the pivot point, I left that hole there, too. It was in a covered area that won't be seen. After I buttoned everything up I thought I should've maybe taken a small black PVC cap from Home Depot and made some cuts to fit over this hole with some adhesive to give it a cleaner appearance, so that's an idea for you to try. That's more than likely what I'll attempt if I ever get back in there. Hope the rest works out fine for you.
  21. Yesterday
  22. Honest advise. Fair prices. Exceptional service. Expert technicians. A clean shop filled with beautiful cars. A true dealership alternative. These are just a few of the things you will find when you visit Salerno Motorsports. Don’t forget, we also BUY | SELL | CONSIGN LUXURY | SPORT | EXOTIC automobiles through our dealership, Autobahn Autos.
  23. Possible fault causes: - Electric fault in control line between DME and ignition coil - Spark plug connector faulty - Ignition coil faulty - Spark plug faulty - Secondary air - Mechanical or electrical fault in injection valve - Valve seat or valve faulty - Valve lift control faulty - Exhaust system blocked/narrowed - Foreign bodies in intake tract, this can lead to sporadic misfires on changing cylinders.
  24. Hello, My 2008 C4S (60k miles and fully serviced) has been giving me an issue for the last few weeks, prior to that no related problems at all. It started a few weeks ago with an amber engine management light coming on around 2 minutes after starting the car from cold. It is fine at startup with the engine running nicely, but after arouind a couple of minutes the light comes on and the engine starts to run lumpy BUT when i give it any increase in accelerator, it becomes smooth and runs perfectly again - it just seems to be very unhappy with my foot off the accelerator and the engine at idle where it drops to around 500-600rpm and runs lumpy with the engine management light coming on. If i carry on driving and the engine gets 'up to temperature' then the idle comes back to it's regular 900rpm and it ticks over perfectly. I have my own code reader and the car was showing the following codes; P0040 - Oxygen sensors upstream of cat. conv. interchanged (Signal implausible) P0300 - Misfire summation fault (exceeds limit value) P0301 - Cylinder 1 misfiring (exceeds limit value) P0302 - Cylinder 2 misfiring (exceeds limit value) P0303 - Cylinder 2 misfiring (exceeds limit value) So, based on previous research on this issue, I changed all 6 coil packs, all 6 spark plugs and all 4 oxygen sensors (both the upstream and the downstream sensors on both sides). This has not improved the issue however, and still the engine starts fine and smooth, after it has run for a couple of mins, it audibly drops revs, becomes lumpy and engine light comes on, but if i give it some gas, it runs perfectly again and the engine light goes out. I should also mention that during this time of issue, it has also had an MOT and passed with perfect emissions. In my old fuel injection cars, they used a cold start valve, which was like a choke for fuel injection engines and gave the engine a bit of extra fuel to start and warm up - could this be something similar and the two minute period is when the cold start valve closes and suddenly the engine is starved of fuel and runs awfully until i use the accelerator to give it back more fuel? However, why only one bank of cylinders (1,2 and 3)?? I am struggling with this one and hoping someone may have had this or knows what's going on? Thanks, Steve
  1. Load more activity
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.