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All Activity

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  1. Today
  2. There has to be a procedure out there for removal and replacement in a workshop manual somewhere. I don’t want to take my wheel off unless I have to. I’ve taken the plastic cover off to get into wiring but before I go any further and do unnecessary work I’m hoping someone can help.
  3. I have just purchased a 2018 Boxster 718 and it certainly is a huge upgrade over my 2007 Boxster. I noticed the tail pipe is already rustier than the 2007 was? The car has less than 11,000 miles on it so I’m concerned. Has anyone else had this issue? Would this be covered under the factory warranty. Thanks Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  4. Yesterday
  5. I have replaced both fuel pumps. From videos I have seen it seems that if it was a bad back flow valve the loss of pressure would be slow. This loss is instant. I suspect it is a vacuum hose problem. Can someone point me in the direction of what hose it could be.
  6. 2008 Cayenne S, making noise diagnosed by mechanic as needing a new transfer case based on the noise made under hard acceleration. New transfer case ordered from Porsche late 2018. When I stopped by the dealer to check on status of the order yesterday, I was told it's on indefinite backorder. Are there any alternatives? Does a VW Touareg or Audi Q7 transfer case work exactly the same, and are they equivalent and available? So frustrating
  7. I'm bumping an old thread, as I'm considering a rebuild from EBS Racing to address cylinder scoring on my 3.4 motor. Has anyone else here had experience with an EBS Racing engine (re)build in the last few years? If so, what was included in your build and how is your motor holding up?
  8. Porsche unfortunately does not sell a lot of internal components for the rack and a new one retails north of $2700: And there never was a manual rack for this car.
  9. I have a radio from a 2007 Boxster S you can have for 50 bucks shipped Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
  10. So i noticed recently my car has been leaking on the driveway on the front driver side and decided to take a look at what it could be. I put the car on jackstands and took the wheel off and the driver side tie rod boot was wet. Took off the clamp holding it on and it spilled out some fluid. Do you know if i can just replace a seal where the tie rod enters the rack itself or do i have to get a whole new rack and pinion? Also is power steering delete a viable option and relatively easy?
  11. Hi everyone, I've had a spoiler warning lamp on since I bought my 1998 996 convertible a few years ago. As an electronics engineer, I decided I may be able to tackle this issue myself. Before starting, I have read numerous previous posts regarding this issue, and what the fixed-wing bypass harness (996 612 070 51) does. When the rear spoiler is elevated, I'm getting zero Ohms between the Grey/Brown (A2) wire and the Brown (A5) wire, as expected. This becomes open circuit when the lid is lowered. There is then zero Ohms between the Brown (A5) and the Green/Grey (A4) wires, again as expected! The switching of the brake lights works normally too, but still the warning light persists. I am wondering if there could be a corroded plug/socket further forward from the rear of the car because the one at the back is very clean and the microswitch states are normal in both positions. I'm not sure if this is a common fault, but I'm guessing it probably isn't as I can't find anything online. One thing I have noticed is that although the manual up/down wing rocker switch works, I have to keep is pressed down until the wing is down. When I try to elevate the wing manually, the switch triggers the latching function of the relays, but when the spoiler is fully up, I can still hear the motor continuing to turn and the gears slipping inside the rear mechanism. The gears will eventually strip and I'll end up with a bigger problem, so any thought on this nuance would be greatly appreciated. Many thanks, Dave
  12. PPI at Porsche dealer. Ask for LN serial number, LN can confirm when it was purchased. Also ask for old bearing, I saved mine.
  13. Get the CEL code again and post. Before you proceed, either DIY or shop, we can help you narrow this down. I certainly would want to know specifically and exactly that this is the problem before chasing ghosts and replacing parts. Also, what year and model? Other recent maintenance or problems? There are other valves and components in the evap system to consider. See here Carbon Canister WWW.AUTOATLANTA.COM
  14. Current seller bought on ebay in 2017, I found this info from previous seller: LN engineering single row retrofit pro IMS bearing just installed along with new clutch, flywheel, flywheel bearing, throw out bearing, rear main seal. New IMS bearing rated to last another 75k miles. Oem Fuchs clutch installed. Brakes have been cleaned & inspected. Everything that can go wrong with this car has already been addressed. These repairs were done last week in preparation for sale. Excellent condition. No dents or dings. Perfect seats. No interior flaws. Has porsche 997 19" oem lobster claw wheels in perfect condition with Michelin pilot sports. Only 57,000 miles. New alpine 8" navigation unit, oem bose sound system. Upgraded fabspeed catalytic converters, upgraded interior led lights, body colored interior console and dash trim, cleanest c4s you will find. Clean Carfax, no accidents. No rust. Owned by Porsche enthusiast
  15. Looking at a 2002 4cs coupe, Silver of Black Leather. 87k msrp. Car has 69k miles. Ad claims upgraded exhaust, short shifter and ims (Parts upgraded in 2016: Idler pulley, Flywheel, drive shaft flex disc, pilot bearing, IMS, new clutch kit, larger coolant container). This was all done by the prior owner himself per current owner (and driven 10k miles since). Owner is looking for $26k. Seems to be reasonable. PPI company or dealer to inspect? Other comments appreciated
  16. Thank you so much works fine!
  17. I'm a little surprised that both front and rear have both failed and not working - is their a common denominator?
  18. Hi, does anyone know the correct routing for the hood release cable (NOT emergency cable) on an early 996 or Boxster? On my car I'm refitting the arch liner, and there are two rubber grommets on the hood release cable. These are positioned near the fuel filler pipe like in these images below: I'm pretty sure they were attached to... something? I can't figure out what they originally fixed to, or is this cable just left flapping about above the arch liner?
  19. Check out this thread. Not saying this is your problem but definitely a possibility. https://rennlist.com/forums/996-forum/861911-stuck-lifter-symptoms-misfire-on-cylinder-4-intermittent.html
  20. I had a similar issue. The short version is to use the correct(ask!) grade of oil and drive the car gently if the rattle is slight. I replaced all my lifters twice and finally gave up and just drove it ! It eventually became silent. I think the lifters had bled down and were just slow at pumping up again -maybe ?
  21. I’ll look at cam deviation in durametric .If I run rpm up it clears up and runs fine . Does not make any noise like lifter or broken spring . Thank you Ahsai for your input
  22. gnmor - when refilling there is a special procedure .If you don't follow it you may get air-locks and that is not good. Check the Pelican diy for more.
  23. VZA - There is a separate thread (that I can't find- sorry) that has the "Actual Values" you need to see when you use Durametric. Make sure your new Durametric has all the updates before you use it. When you use Durametric to activate the solenoid , you can definitely hear/feel the subtle change in the engine.
  24. Wait! I had this issue resolved through my local Porsche dealership - they slightly loosened a nut in the selector mechanism and lubricated it, and it fixed it completely. This was over five years ago and it has never returned.
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