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  3. Another one https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/996/297370-solved-misfire-idle-p0305-2002-lifter-replacement-bank-2-p1325.html
  4. Check out this thread. Not saying this is your problem but definitely a possibility. https://rennlist.com/forums/996-forum/861911-stuck-lifter-symptoms-misfire-on-cylinder-4-intermittent.html
  5. I had a similar issue. The short version is to use the correct(ask!) grade of oil and drive the car gently if the rattle is slight. I replaced all my lifters twice and finally gave up and just drove it ! It eventually became silent. I think the lifters had bled down and were just slow at pumping up again -maybe ?
  6. I’ll look at cam deviation in durametric .If I run rpm up it clears up and runs fine . Does not make any noise like lifter or broken spring . Thank you Ahsai for your input
  7. gnmor - when refilling there is a special procedure .If you don't follow it you may get air-locks and that is not good. Check the Pelican diy for more.
  8. Thanks for the correction - I'm too timid .:-)
  9. VZA - There is a separate thread (that I can't find- sorry) that has the "Actual Values" you need to see when you use Durametric. Make sure your new Durametric has all the updates before you use it. When you use Durametric to activate the solenoid , you can definitely hear/feel the subtle change in the engine.
  10. Wait! I had this issue resolved through my local Porsche dealership - they slightly loosened a nut in the selector mechanism and lubricated it, and it fixed it completely. This was over five years ago and it has never returned.
  11. Yesterday
  12. I saw the service manual and the detail and instructions were lacking to say the least. Now I know why the Rennlist poster paid $2000 for the replacement at his shop.
  13. The only one that I am familiar with is from the factory service manuals, but that cannot be reproduced here as it is copyrighted intellectual property.
  14. Hi Toby, I used this as a general guide, it should be very similar to any valved exhaust you plan on installing. Hope it helps! I hope they don't mind installation links here - Akrapovic Install
  15. Thanks for the response I will replace the cable then. Wish me luck!
  16. In the meantime you may also want to attach a vacuum gauge at the intake vacuum to see if the needle are bouncing. That will tell you something mechanical is bad such as a burnt valve, broken valve spring, bad lifter, etc.
  17. Sorry, thought I had posted my fix. Dealer 1st replaced gearshift - 997 426 011 02 and still had issue. Then replaced cable 99742603301. Problem solved. They were fair and gave me a credit for the difference - 1st was more expensive. Good luck
  18. Bump! Having the same problem. Shifts fine when cold but once it's hot it's really stiff. Anyone else have the same problem and how it was fixed? Thanks!
  19. Got a chance to look under the car. The tank is located above both front axels and the differential housing but I could not see the valve anywhere. Looks like it is hidden somewhere between the inner fender sheet metal and the tank. The valve is supposed to be located near the fuel filler tube but I could not see where the fuel filler tube attaches to the tank itself. Would the tank need to be dropped? So not only the axles, but the differential housing itself would need to be removed to drop the tank? And not to mention the full tank of gas that's in the car. This is getting worse and worse. Also, since it's a C4, the tank is the "saddle" tank and not sure if this presents any additional problems. Are there any tutorials on how to remove a fuel tank and all the associated parts including the fuel filler neck, clamps, etc. on a 1999 C4?
  20. Problem is pretty straight forward, the center latch on the convertible top trips a microswitch when latched, allowing the windows to finish their path upwards into their seals for a weather tight configuration. When the latch is released prior to putting the top down, the windows drop several inches in order to let the top cycle into its down position. But now the windows have no signal as the top is retracted, which means when the hard top is put on, or if the driver wanted the windows all the way up with the top down, this would leave the side windows down several inches. Add the cheap red clip, the windows get the signal to go into the full up position, where they remain until the inside or outside door handle is pulled, retracting them slightly to allow them to clear the top seals (as if a top is in place). Again, a simple solution to an otherwise complicated problem.....
  21. The hard top explains the red clip, which is a great idea to use also for top down window operation, thanks. Still interested in why Porsche designed windows to go down and not back up with top down. No big deal just curious like Richard.
  22. I pondered the same. Thought maybe the windows didn't have enough support
  23. Has to do with the hard top option; when the hard top is in place, nothing is pushing down the microswitch, hence the red clip so the windows go all the way up with the hard top on. Simple fix for a complicated problem...……..
  24. So why is this engineered like this for the windows to be down 4 in when the top is down? Has to be explanation somewhere. Very weird I think as I like my windows to be all the way up.
  25. Realize that unless it is a Porsche specific tool (PST2, PIWIS, Durametric), some codes may be difficult to ascertain or reset. Hopefully your indy has a PST2 or PIWIS if they work on Porsche.
  26. I pushed and held switch where it latches. Then up on windows. They went up but upon releasing latch micro switch, windows dropped back down 4". So the orange clip should do the trick. I will order the one in picture from Suncoast at $7.95. Thanks guys.
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