Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

All Activity

This stream auto-updates     

  1. Past hour
  2. I pulled the seat belt out several times and let it reel back in. It rolls back up correctly. The code keeps popping up. Can I just take that trim off and check the wiring? I don't want to set the airbag off.
  3. Today
  4. Thanks I will look at that when I get back from work trip
  5. You need to look behind the water pump at the engine case wall.
  6. Yes, the pump was replaced because of overheating in May 2019 (also thermostat) Appears it was driven 600 miles and taken to another shop complaining of overheating in July 2019.
  7. I believe the Gates pump has a metal impeller: I am concerned that the pump was replaced because of overheating, not because the pump had failed or was making noise. The question is why was it overheating? At this juncture, if the car was in my shop, I would pull the water pump and look at both the impeller and the wall of the engine case. If the case is tore up, you are chasing your tail trying to get the system to work. As for the reviews of the pump, some "complain" the impeller is composite, others complain it is metal, so it sounds like they could go either way. In any case, we ONLY use the factory water pumps, which are all composite impellers, and work well, unlike several aftermarket brands we have looked at. Unfortunately, many aftermarket bits for Porsches are really junk; water pumps, surge tanks, and AOS units are great examples of what not to buy. We have seen several fail right out of the box. Yes, they are a few bucks cheaper, but after some people have gone through two or three units in quick succession, that few bucks looks like a really bad deal...…..
  8. Yes, pulled thermostat and tested good. I have the paperwork from the water pump. It says 42579 which comes up at Gates brand when I do a google search. The photo shows metal impeller but people are “complaining” in the reviews that it is plastic, so who knows... hopefully composite? I drained and vacuum filled the system again. Same result. No heat. I also “flushed” the radiator hoses and heater hoses while they were off with a garden hose and there seemed to be no obstuctions. Water pump and thermostat were replaced because of previous owner overheating. Attached is a photo of the bucket that I filled and how much water it sucked in with the vacuum. New radiator cap should be here in a couple days but I don’t think that would affect the issue with no heat.
  9. Amazing guys, worked perfectly thanks very much
  10. Something 'organic" is wrong here, so let's start with the basic elements of the system: You said you pulled the thermostat and tested it, correct? Do you have the paper work from the water pump install? Can you see the water pump and verify that it is new? Is it possible to contact the shop that did the work and find out why they replaced the pump and if the original and replacement pump had a metal or composite impeller? People have a tendency to replace the composite impeller pumps in these cars with aftermarket metal impeller pumps because they are cheaper and people think they are better, which is a big problem. The clearance between the back of the impeller and the engine case is only a couple thousandth's of an inch in order to get proper coolant flow, and Porsche used composite impellers specifically because as the pumps age, the shaft begins to wobble and the impeller hits the engine case. If the impeller is composite, the impeller breaks up and fails; if the impeller is metal however, it begins machining away the engine case, creating a much larger gap, and renders any new pump, regardless of impeller type, unable to move the coolant in sufficient volume to keep the engine cool. Unfortunately, there is no coming back from this a the engine would have to come out and apart to spray weld up the are and then be machined to the correct tolerance's, which is too expensive to be realistic.
  11. I took it for a short drive again- engine was overheating steam coming out from radiator cap the heat started working intermittently I guess I could try the exact same procedure that I did again but how can I expect anything to change if I don’t do anything different?
  12. ak_siberian


    Greetings from 65 North, Alaska. Just about to pull the trigger on a 2019 Macan S. Been working on cars all my life. Having 2 Touaregs currently (one is being sold shortly) and an Audi RS5 I was spoiled with the VCDS or VAG-COM from Uwe in terms of diagnostic tool. Not (yet) wanting to cede control of my vehicle to a dealer I was wondering for any comments on PoCOM for a Macan S. Hope to learn a lot from the forum and look forward to your comments siberian
  13. Sounds correct, but obviously if you have no heat from a heater that has full flow all the time, there has to be air in the system, or the doors on the HVAC system are not moving correctly. Pull the cover off on the passenger's side next to the battery, start the car and let it warm up, you should be able to feel both heater lines and see if they get hot.
  14. Maybe there was something wrong in my procedure, here is what I did: 1. Remove two large hoses, two small hoses (heater core?), drain plug (nothing came out the drain plug at the end). 2. Reconnect all hoses and drain plug. 3. Vacuum system down to 25.5”. Let it sit for 5 mins, verified no drop(rise?) in vacuum pressure. 4. Allow the water to be sucked in from a 5 gallon bucket Something I am missing??
  15. Distilled water will not change anything. If you don't have heat, you still have air in the system.
  16. Just be aware of two points: You are disabling a federally mandated safety item; in many states that is grounds for failing the car at its annual inspection. Your insurance company can play games with you if you have an accident such as rear ending someone of bumping into an inanimate object. You purposely disabled a mandated safety feature designed to prevent such things, you could end up on the hook for all the damage.
  17. Vacuum fill seemed successful (or so I thought). When I put 15 psi pressure into it to test, the level still decreased slightly but not nearly as much. Not sure how there could be any air in the system. I took it down to 25.5” and it was holding steady. I drove for a few miles, temp seemed pretty steady at 180 degrees and I thought the issue was fixed, but as I pulled back into my driveway, temp began to rise (slightly) to just above 180. I popped the trunk and could hear what sounded like boiling/gurgling coming from the cap area but it didnt flow over and no steam. I am using distilled water until I get this figured out. Could that be having any effect? Weird thing is now the heater seems to not work at all. Before the vacuum fill, it got warm but not hot.
  18. I believe the seat belt tensioner is located in the B pillar....where the seat belt rolls back into the pillar. Here is what I would do, pull the seat belt out all the way several times and see if it rolls back up correctly. Then clear the code and see if it comes back. It might just be an anomaly. My seat belt light came on unexpectedly last evening. Never before. Once I hook up my Durametric this morning, I am curious to find out what triggered it. It was the passenger seat buckle. Cleared code, light is out. Shot some electrical contact cleaner in the buckle. We shall see.
  19. Hi skip Could u give me Dan's contact details.im needing a new top for my 86. Thx
  20. Thank you. Would you recommend I just clean the connections up or is this something I have to bring to a dealership? I have a lot of mechanical and electronic experience. Where is the tensioner located? Where is the triggering unit located? Thanks again.
  21. Fault 23 Possible cause of fault: - Incorrect coding - Short circuit to B+/ground or open circuit in the wiring between the driver's seat belt tensioner and the control module - Driver's seat belt tensioner faulty - Triggering unit for airbag faulty
  22. The Airbag light came on in my 2002 996 while I was on a long drive. I used my Durametric scanner and found that the fault says: Airbag B05 Current Fault Codes 23 Belt tensioner, drivers --- I've checked the archives and could not find this exact issue. I've cleaned the contacts with spray contact cleaner but the code did not clear. Do I need to replace the belt buckles? What is my next course of action? Thanks in advance for any help you can offer.
  23. Easy peasy... Just take a 18 ga. wire, more or less by 4"- 5" more or less and find 2 female spade connectors that fit over the 2 exposed male terminals. Make up the pigtail with the 2 female spade connectors, install and you have now defeated the clutch safety switch. I'll replace the switch, but for now its a quick fix. Is yours broken... the only advantage I can see is you can start the car without getting in, better have the E-brake set and the trans in neutral. One last comment, if you reach in and start the car, then turn it off reaching through the open window you'll have a dead battery by the next morning. You have to open and close the door for the computer to shut down the interior lights. I'm not sure if all years worked the same way, but that's how my '03' C4S works. I have had a dead battery to prove it... Try it yourself and see if the interior lights time out just reaching through the open window.
  24. Yesterday
  25. I'll take a look when I get to my PC in the morning. I might have some info. Failing that, it might be worth taking a punt on something like this: 05-08 Porsche Boxster S Cayman 911 997 987 #1085 Navigation DVD GPS Drive Unit WWW.EBAY.CO.UK Donor Vehicle: 2005 Porsche Boxster S. Vin# WP0CB29815U732083. Interior Color: Black. Exterior Color: Black. I can't really see why it wouldn't work, but even if not you could strip it and swap the DVD mechanism.
  1. Load more activity
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.