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  1. Past hour
  2. If the aftermarket exhaust is after CAT mod, it should not affect the cats barring any exhaust leak. Yes, it's possible the codes were erased before because it takes time for the DME to run repeated CAT tests before it gives up at n then and trip the CEL. Could take hundreds of miles depending on how bad the cats are.
  3. So the AOS needs to be replaced. My 996 had the fvd Bronbracher exhaust, could that be the reason why? I bought the car with the exhaust already installed recently and it is possible the code was deleted by the previous owner and not disclosed to me.
  4. Hello, I'm starting to prepare my 996 C4 for the track. Regretfully, I installed a set of all season tires on 18" OEM wheels. They melt like candy after a few laps. Anyone have recommendations for aftermarket wheels and tires for track use (only)? Thank you for your recommendation in advance,
  5. Today
  6. Agreed with everthing you said except that the AOS should not affect your cats. I'm curious why you get both p0420 and 0430 the same time. So your CEL just came on now? Yeah, it's possible the AOS is cracked because it is made of plastic.
  7. Do you have this timing tool?
  8. Thank you. I saw the coolant spray out after around 20 minutes of the engine running. I thought it was the connection with the hose, however later I realized that it seems the coolant to be coming from the plastic itself, from the top close to the hose connection, however the way it is spraying it seems like it is really coming from behind the hose which will be the AOS. I don’t have any idea about parts or how the flow of coolant works, however it seems the AOS is cracked and leaking coolant, so that is possible I guess? Also as long I keep watching coolant level and temperature is it safe to drive it for few days until I get it fixed? It is not a mayor leak and the engine does not overheat, however I think it is also affecting my catalytic converters as I just got the P0430 and P0420 codes. Thank you for your help!!
  9. One thing comes to mind. Make sure the cam reluctor did not slip and rotated out of its original position. I think there's a tab to fix the reluctor so shifting should not be possible but I don't quite remember now.
  10. If the color links line up at the beginning, that's all that matters. Once you turn the crank/cams, the matching relationship will be lost, until n turns later. I don't recall but n is probably a large number. Of course in additon to the links lining up, you still need the proper cam timing tool to set the timing accurately. Using the stock tensioner to maintain tension is probably ok.
  11. OK ...well the chain marked links I have something to say about that. When I timed the banks after I had the cams out to replace 1 solenoid and all the pads this is what happened. I recall it happening on both banks. Had the cams on my bench, lined up the dimples with the colored links, got the actuator back in between cams reinstalled cams with colored links still lined up(was very meticulous about this) set timing and torqued up the sprocket nuts...colored links were still good. Rotated the engine few times...colored links moved but the timing still appeared good. TDC, notch on intake and exhaust cam stilled lined up. To be safe I tore it down again....ugh. Repeated the entire procedure but marked sprocket and links with nail polish so I could eyeball it from any angle. Re-installed everything,rotated the engine few times and it happen AGAIN, it all appeared to line up but the colored links moved again. I was able to count the links between the dimples and it was the same amount as between the colored links(I believe it was 6 links don't recall) I posted what happened here or rennlist and got a response that this was normal...so I went with it. Started the car and got a nasty knock in bank 2 (which is what I just described) ran it for a while and revved engine some cause some said the tappets weren't pumped up. Turns out I lost timing on bank 2 (exhaust cam was no longer lined up) I took the scavenge pump off loosened bolts on sprocket nudged it and lined it up, checked the number of links between dimples(colored ones were still off) closed everything up....knock was gone. I could never figure how the colored links could move and still have the same amount of links line up with the dimples. I know this a long post but I really hope that I'm explaining it so you can understand. The colored links moved on Bank 1 as well if I recall...I wound up counting them as well. I didn't use the Porsche chain tensioner tool that supposed to put pre-tension on the chain. Just used the tensioner.Thanks for reading thru all of this. v
  12. Searched but... 1997 boxster base 5 speed 76k miles Wipers won't turn off. Regardless of lever position, wipers run at low speed. To get home i turned car off and back on. Wipers stayed in up position. Tested today. Same problem.
  13. The AOS has two coolant lines connected to it, held by two small hose clamps. The leak could occur at the connection. One will need to pressure test the cooling system and visually check where the leak is coming from and go from there.
  14. Yesterday
  15. After completing most of the repairs to the '97 Boxster, now for the radio : ) CDR-210 type 2896 Ser# 5009452 Thank you in advance!!
  16. Hello, I am really worried, I noticed a coolant leak on the driver rear side of the car. The leak is on the back. Starts leaking after the engine gets hot and it seems that stops after a while because I don’t lose that much coolant. I check the coolant and add a little bit before driving it. No overheating. at first I thought it was a hose coming out of what now I think is the AOS. But now I think is the AOS itself that might have a tiny crack. Is that possible? Coolant from the oil separator and not oil leak? How serious is this? Any help really appreciated. As much as I wish I could do mechanical work, I think this is out of my league. Thanks!
  17. Hi, Left headlight was too low according to vehicle inspection on my 996 -02 (facelift). Nothing really happened when I tried to adjust it according to user manual. So I removed the headlight and it turns out that I can lower the beam but when I raise it I can feel that it gets to a point where it doesn't raise the beam any more; the adjustment teeth aren't gripping. What might be the problem? Thanks!
  18. Appears it was incorrectly listed 😞 but I do want to clean the foam inside the grille which requires removal anyway. Any thoughts?
  19. Thank you! I really appreciate your help! I think I have the issue resolved. Now I have another issue. Coolant leaking from what I think is the AOS, I think for this one I may have to take it to the dealer. I just add a little bit of coolant every day. No oil leak just coolant. Is it ok to drive it for few days adding coolant daily and watching the temperature of the engine to remain low? Thank you!
  20. Update. The PCM was changed before my ownership for a second hand one, does it need coding for the reverse camera to work?
  21. Dump the fuel and all vital fluids and start over. Probably will need a battery as well, and I would check the tires for signs of aging.
  22. The TRA should vary a bit when you rev the engine. The FRA is more long term adjustment when engine is under load so just revving the engine a bit won't make FRA move. You have to drive the car but even then you may only see small changes day to day. Yes, the small actuator pads. When you retime it, make sure the chain marked links are at the correct places on the cam sprockets.
  23. Ok...retime bank1.Are the trims supposed to move when the engine is revved...nothing changed.What cam pads are you referring to? The 2 small pads on the actuator? They were done already. Thanks for getting back.v
  24. I received a call from Jake and he said they started assembly work on the motor this week. Right on schedule with the dates he gave me back in August. Pictures coming soon.
  25. Excellent. Bank 1 cam deviation is way out of spec, which is 0.0 +/- 6.0 degrees and you have -15 degrees. I believe that's the source of your bank 1 random misfires. The solution is to re-time bank 1 and replace the cam pads if they are original/worn out. Both banks are running RICH under load based on the FRA readings. FRA in bank 1 is a bit low at 0.87, which means the DME is reducing the fuel by 13%. Bank 2 fuel is reduced by 7%, not too bad. The bank 1 FRA could be a consequence of the excessive cam deviation. TRA1 and TRA2 numbers are in % and they look great. So it seems no intake air leak. For monitoring misfires, go to DME actual values and select "Misfire cylinder #1", "Misfire cylinder #2", etc.
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