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  3. PPI at Porsche dealer. Ask for LN serial number, LN can confirm when it was purchased. Also ask for old bearing, I saved mine.
  4. Get the CEL code again and post. Before you proceed, either DIY or shop, we can help you narrow this down. I certainly would want to know specifically and exactly that this is the problem before chasing ghosts and replacing parts. Also, what year and model? Other recent maintenance or problems? There are other valves and components in the evap system to consider. See here Carbon Canister WWW.AUTOATLANTA.COM
  5. Current seller bought on ebay in 2017, I found this info from previous seller: LN engineering single row retrofit pro IMS bearing just installed along with new clutch, flywheel, flywheel bearing, throw out bearing, rear main seal. New IMS bearing rated to last another 75k miles. Oem Fuchs clutch installed. Brakes have been cleaned & inspected. Everything that can go wrong with this car has already been addressed. These repairs were done last week in preparation for sale. Excellent condition. No dents or dings. Perfect seats. No interior flaws. Has porsche 997 19" oem lobster claw wheels in perfect condition with Michelin pilot sports. Only 57,000 miles. New alpine 8" navigation unit, oem bose sound system. Upgraded fabspeed catalytic converters, upgraded interior led lights, body colored interior console and dash trim, cleanest c4s you will find. Clean Carfax, no accidents. No rust. Owned by Porsche enthusiast
  6. Looking at a 2002 4cs coupe, Silver of Black Leather. 87k msrp. Car has 69k miles. Ad claims upgraded exhaust, short shifter and ims (Parts upgraded in 2016: Idler pulley, Flywheel, drive shaft flex disc, pilot bearing, IMS, new clutch kit, larger coolant container). This was all done by the prior owner himself per current owner (and driven 10k miles since). Owner is looking for $26k. Seems to be reasonable. PPI company or dealer to inspect? Other comments appreciated
  7. Thank you so much works fine!
  8. I'm a little surprised that both front and rear have both failed and not working - is their a common denominator?
  9. Hi, does anyone know the correct routing for the hood release cable (NOT emergency cable) on an early 996 or Boxster? On my car I'm refitting the arch liner, and there are two rubber grommets on the hood release cable. These are positioned near the fuel filler pipe like in these images below: I'm pretty sure they were attached to... something? I can't figure out what they originally fixed to, or is this cable just left flapping about above the arch liner?
  10. Check out this thread. Not saying this is your problem but definitely a possibility. https://rennlist.com/forums/996-forum/861911-stuck-lifter-symptoms-misfire-on-cylinder-4-intermittent.html
  11. I had a similar issue. The short version is to use the correct(ask!) grade of oil and drive the car gently if the rattle is slight. I replaced all my lifters twice and finally gave up and just drove it ! It eventually became silent. I think the lifters had bled down and were just slow at pumping up again -maybe ?
  12. I’ll look at cam deviation in durametric .If I run rpm up it clears up and runs fine . Does not make any noise like lifter or broken spring . Thank you Ahsai for your input
  13. gnmor - when refilling there is a special procedure .If you don't follow it you may get air-locks and that is not good. Check the Pelican diy for more.
  14. Thanks for the correction - I'm too timid .:-)
  15. VZA - There is a separate thread (that I can't find- sorry) that has the "Actual Values" you need to see when you use Durametric. Make sure your new Durametric has all the updates before you use it. When you use Durametric to activate the solenoid , you can definitely hear/feel the subtle change in the engine.
  16. Wait! I had this issue resolved through my local Porsche dealership - they slightly loosened a nut in the selector mechanism and lubricated it, and it fixed it completely. This was over five years ago and it has never returned.
  17. Yesterday
  18. I saw the service manual and the detail and instructions were lacking to say the least. Now I know why the Rennlist poster paid $2000 for the replacement at his shop.
  19. The only one that I am familiar with is from the factory service manuals, but that cannot be reproduced here as it is copyrighted intellectual property.
  20. Hi Toby, I used this as a general guide, it should be very similar to any valved exhaust you plan on installing. Hope it helps! I hope they don't mind installation links here - Akrapovic Install
  21. Thanks for the response I will replace the cable then. Wish me luck!
  22. In the meantime you may also want to attach a vacuum gauge at the intake vacuum to see if the needle are bouncing. That will tell you something mechanical is bad such as a burnt valve, broken valve spring, bad lifter, etc.
  23. Sorry, thought I had posted my fix. Dealer 1st replaced gearshift - 997 426 011 02 and still had issue. Then replaced cable 99742603301. Problem solved. They were fair and gave me a credit for the difference - 1st was more expensive. Good luck
  24. Bump! Having the same problem. Shifts fine when cold but once it's hot it's really stiff. Anyone else have the same problem and how it was fixed? Thanks!
  25. Got a chance to look under the car. The tank is located above both front axels and the differential housing but I could not see the valve anywhere. Looks like it is hidden somewhere between the inner fender sheet metal and the tank. The valve is supposed to be located near the fuel filler tube but I could not see where the fuel filler tube attaches to the tank itself. Would the tank need to be dropped? So not only the axles, but the differential housing itself would need to be removed to drop the tank? And not to mention the full tank of gas that's in the car. This is getting worse and worse. Also, since it's a C4, the tank is the "saddle" tank and not sure if this presents any additional problems. Are there any tutorials on how to remove a fuel tank and all the associated parts including the fuel filler neck, clamps, etc. on a 1999 C4?
  26. Problem is pretty straight forward, the center latch on the convertible top trips a microswitch when latched, allowing the windows to finish their path upwards into their seals for a weather tight configuration. When the latch is released prior to putting the top down, the windows drop several inches in order to let the top cycle into its down position. But now the windows have no signal as the top is retracted, which means when the hard top is put on, or if the driver wanted the windows all the way up with the top down, this would leave the side windows down several inches. Add the cheap red clip, the windows get the signal to go into the full up position, where they remain until the inside or outside door handle is pulled, retracting them slightly to allow them to clear the top seals (as if a top is in place). Again, a simple solution to an otherwise complicated problem.....
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