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Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 08/18/2020 in all areas

  1. I would first check the one you have to make sure it is not blocked from air flow by debris.
    2 points
  2. Welcome to RennTech , and your English is fine, and much better than our Greek! It probably caused by oil pressure bleeding down from the hydraulic tensioner's in the VarioCam system, which do not cost that much, either in Euros or $.
    2 points
  3. No, it is located on the fuel rail and is a mechanical device. The ignition switch is a cheap electrical part of the key assembly that requires no programing to replace. It is a pain to access, but controls ALL electrical functions in the car: A DIY how to here: How to change 996 ignition switch electrical section Be sure to buy the factory part, aftermarket versions are notoriously bad..............
    1 point
  4. Sorry, but the 2002-2004 Boxster S engine was a 3.2L, not a 3.6L. later models got a 3.4L engine, but there were no 3.6L M96/97 Boxsters from the factory, although there was a 3.8L 9A1 engine in 2015-2016 "Spyder" model. You can interchange 3.2 and 3.4 cylinder heads within certain bounds and caveats: Both engines need to have the same cam drive systems (chain styles and number of chains varied over model years). 986 1997–1999 2.5 L (2,480 cc) 204 PS (150 kW; 201 bhp) 245 N⋅m (181 lbf⋅ft) water-cooled DOHC 24-valve Boxer flat-six "M96.20" 2000–2002 2.7 L (2,68
    1 point
  5. "If two batteries are fitted to the vehicle (main battery and backup battery), these are connected or disconnected to the bus bar in the power distributor through a relay. The switching of the two batteries is controlled independent of the load management (function is integrated in the vehicle electrical system control unit). The starter relay of the 2nd battery is actuated parallel to the starter relay. That means for every start the starter is supplied from both batteries. The backup battery is disconnected from the vehicle electrical system when the engine is switched off and then supplies
    1 point
  6. It doesn't need to be left open, simply buy a quality battery maintainer like Ctek, plug it into your cigarette lighter socket, run the cord out thru the cut out in the bottom of the driver's door (there for this exact purpose), and let the car sit for months (locked with the alarm on) without any issues.
    1 point
  7. Engine number is on the drivers side next to the oil sump pan...like this. You are correct. 2000 was a transition year for the IMSB from the dual row bearing to the smaller single row bearing. As far as I know, on a 2000, there is no way to know whether it has a dual row or single row bearing by using the engine number. If it were me, I would just plan on having the LN IMS Solution installed as soon as possible. No sense in pulling the bearing and replacing with another bearing that will need to replaced again in 36-40K miles.
    1 point
  8. I would use circuit board cleaner on the board but be careful as old rubberized buttons can tear with rough cleaning.
    1 point
  9. My key stopped working over 10 years ago. Does not work to lock/unlock car. New battery in key fob did nothing, however the key fob red light does blink. It just doesn't communicate with the car. I figure the key circuit board is broken based on what I have read. Been using the manual key in the door lock ever since. No problem.
    1 point
  10. Also, worn out buttons or dirt inside the keyhead.
    1 point
  11. I think they are referring to the flexible disc at the end of the cardan shaft.
    1 point
  12. If the key fits in the lock cylinder and you can turn both left and right, but it feels loose, without any resistance than the circled part in the pic. is probably broken or badly replaced after a previous intervention.
    1 point
  13. Hi everyone, I have a 1973 Porsche 911 T with Targa top issues. The safety latch on the driver's side got stuck and I stripped or broke off the receptor for the release handle. I am unable to remove the top now (haven't tried the wire release trick yet). I am looking for someone in the Chicago area who can do repair and restoration on the Targa top.
    1 point
  14. Car is up running 100% and enjoyed 5x more. When I have some time I will do a write up with pics and DIY info too.
    1 point
  15. For me, to work around the compressor lines and engine temp sensor, a wobble or flex socket adapter does the trick. Coupled with the right size socket (can't be too deep or too fat). What has worked well on that rear bolt is a small 1/4" drive 13mm socket (not too fat or too deep, but fits snugly onto the bolt and pretty much butts up right against the A/C lines), plugged into a 1/4" flex socket, plugged into a 3/8" adapter, plugged into a 3/8" extension and finnally into the wrench poking out just above the intake.
    1 point
  16. A few points to add from a '99 Cabrio owner in Central Florida. I ran into a couple snags, and wanted to pass my info along in the hopes it'll help someone else out there, and you can plan your weekend morning accordingly. 1. Finding the Right Fluid -- Wasn't as easy as I'd hoped. I went to the two major car part store chains in my area (AutoZone and Discount/Advance Auto Parts) and didn't have any luck finding either John Deere or Pentosin fluid. Ended up going to Bennett Auto Parts (on my way to Tractor Supply, which I assumed had the John Deere) and it turned out Bennett had it and carrie
    1 point
  17. Here are the pictures and instructions. This TSB is easy to do, and the range in my key remote went from 4 ft to 30 ft. 1999 996 Cabrio. Here are the tools you will need. The following steps: 1. Remove the sun visor. It simply pulls out 2. Use the small flat screw driver to pry of plastic cover on visor base. When removed, you will see the Hex bolt heads 3. Use the 4 mm Hex wrench key to remove both bolts. Hold on to the part, it has washers on the other side and can get fall off if not careful. 4. Now pull off the A-pillar cover to reveal the cables underneath. 5 Pull out th
    1 point
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