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Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 03/28/2019 in Posts

  1. 2 points
    Welcome to RennTech On cabriolets, the number 2 relay panel is mounted to the rear of the roll over protection frame. You need to put the top in the "service" position to gain access to it.
  2. 2 points
    Front trunk, rear engine cover, doors, center console, interior sensor.
  3. 2 points
    I just installed a Pioneer AVH-2440NEX, Metra 99-9604b dash kit and Scosche LPPE15 wiring interface from Crutchfield in my 2005 Cayenne. Absolutely terrific sound. Existing amplifier and subwoofer work great. I highly recommend using their $25 ReadyHarness Service tp pre-wire everything. Like others in this forum, I needed to trim the dash plate to get a nice flush mount. The USB AUX adapter from Amazon fits perfectly in an unused dash hole. Total installation was was less than $700. $350 for the radio and about the same for the harnesses. The Axxess ASWC-1 steering wheel control adapter is not needed. A 3.5m plug on the adapter fits in the back of the radio and gives steering wheel volume and track control.
  4. 2 points
    Updated Mileage: 288,565. 2018 Round trips included NY to Seattle and NY to New Orleans. Still not driving as much as I'd like. #4 cylinder down to 75%. Trying to hold out to 300k before rebuild.
  5. 2 points
    Are you sure you don't have fuses mixed up? I'm currently on 1 pump in my CS with fuse 14 pulled and can hear the right side pump running/whinning when the car is on. I think Fuse #14 is for the driver side pump and #13 is the right pass side pump, but feel free to correct me If I'm wrong USA
  6. 1 point
    I believe that you will find that list is for the IMS Solution only, there is a sperate list for their ceramic hybrid retrofits.
  7. 1 point
    Hate to say it but that yellow sludge in the oil filler tube and cap is a classic sign of not running the engine long enough and hot enough to burn that stuff off. If you had the coolant system pressurized and leak tested, what makes you think you have a coolant leak? Surely something would have happened if the leak test failed. And one quart low on oil? When was the last oil change and how many miles on the oil change? It is not unusual to have to add a quart of oil every once in a while depending on mileage. As said, if you are smelling coolant in the cabin (but again, you had a pressure test done on the coolant system so ????) it could be your heater core. Are you losing any coolant?
  8. 1 point
  9. 1 point
    Sounds like stretched cam chain (P0341 Camshaft position sensor 1), needs replaced to fix the rough running. Hotter engine makes the worn chain just that little bit longer to the point where it's way out in timing. Suggest you check the current draw of your starter. If it is very high and causes big voltage drop them maybe you have a bad starter motor. Most diagnostic tools have the crank voltage menu where you can check this.
  10. 1 point
  11. 1 point
    They, and the con rod bolts should both be replaced.
  12. 1 point
    The diagnosis detects pulsations in the intake air tract from the boost pressure sensor reading. When the overrun recirculating air valve is stuck in closed position, these are produced by the exhaust turbocharger (pumping in the direction of the closed throttle valve). This fault can also occur in extremely cold conditions when the membranes of the overrun recirculating air valves can be frozen solid for a short time just after you start the engine.
  13. 1 point
    996 Ignition Switch replace (just the switch) with pictures First off - thanks to everyone who has been down this road before me for providing tips and suggestions and troubleshooting regarding this common problem. I have been dealing with a key that would stay all the way to the right upon starting meaning that the A/C, heated seats and some other items would not function. My solution had been to simply start the car and then just move the key back one notch to the left and everything worked fine. So if others have that issue, my original solution Author scb71 Category Carrera (996) - Common Fixes and Repairs Submitted 09/16/2009 01:31 PM Updated 03/13/2017 05:24 AM  
  14. 1 point
  15. 1 point
    It is normal to hear more air flow noises with aftermarket filters. You could always test by putting the OEM filters back in.
  16. 1 point
    Got an email about this and can't offer any mechanical advice but had a similar Durametric issue with the codes not matching Porsches codes. After numerous calls to Durametric, they acknowledged there was a bug in their 997.2 profile that transposed the digits. They were going to work on a fix so check to see if you have the most current rev. I never used it again so don't know firsthand. Good luck!
  17. 1 point
  18. 1 point
    Thomas, the pump literally is used to make sure the hot coolant flows back and circulates properly to the heater matrix(s)to keep passengers warm, it also send it back to the rear heater matrix (if fitted). Some cayenne have a.c. evaporator and heater matrix in the boot as well as in the lower dash. "Four zone climate control" option I believe it was called. The "rest" button just runs this pump when the engine is off and the passengers are asking for warm air still from the interior fan hence hot coolant is required to circulate by electric pump. Hello from the UK my friend.
  19. 1 point
    Your part number is correct except for the M14 at the end, which tells me it is a Pelican number. Don't buy it from them, they a known for swapping out non OEM for the real thing. Get it from board sponsor Sunset Porsche.
  20. 1 point
  21. 1 point
    Check your crank position sensor; hard starting when warm is a classic sign of CPS problems.
  22. 1 point
  23. 1 point
    I haven't tried the Autel scan tool so not sure how accurate it is. It would be nice if you could recheck everything with a Durametric. Assuming the Autel readings are correct, your bank 1 cam deviation is not in spec and should be corrected. You may want to replace the bank 1 chain tensioner and retime bank 1. The bank 2 cam behavior sounds suspicious. Could be the variocam actuator problem (sticky). Would be nice to check with Durametric to confirm before digging in further.
  24. 1 point
  25. 1 point
    Item 16 is 3 nuts per side that the muffler (mounting bracket on the muffler) to the mounting bracket on the car. Item 19 is 2 bolts per side that hold the mounting bracket to the chassis. When I remove the mufflers I just remove the 3 (per side) nuts 16. I have never seen any damage on these.
  26. 1 point
  27. 1 point
    No, no one seems to have an answer.
  28. 1 point
    To my knowledge, Porsche did not use that measurement as spec on these engines. Instead, they had specs for overall valve length from tip to tip as 110.1 +/- 0.1MM on the intakes and 109+/- 0.1MM on the exhausts, and installed valve spring heights on valves that passed the overall spec at 36.7 +/- 0.3MM intakes and 35.7 +/- 0.3MM exhausts as measured from the spring seat to the bottom of the spring retainer.
  29. 1 point
    READ the Lost Radio Code FAQ... Try 6789
  30. 1 point
    Tape...find the ground wire and wrap some tape around the connector. That means it is not connected to anything. Originally the brown ground wire was connected to the radio chassis. Now what you want to do is disconnect the ground wire and wrap some tape around the connector so it is not touching anything.
  31. 1 point
    Running a bottle of Techron in the fuel system might help as well. Would not hurt anything to try. Particularly if the car has been sitting around for awhile.
  32. 1 point
    Hmm I have.... P2227 Ambient Air Pressure Sensor - Signal Implausible
  33. 1 point
    The airbag control unit is usually right below the PCM - so check that wires were not damaged or accidentally disconnected.
  34. 1 point
    Porsche specific codes (codes other than emissions codes) require a more specialized tool. Durametric (requires laptop) - $287 Autel MaxiSys MS906BT - $1350 Porsche PIWIS Tester (lease) - $18,000 per year For the DIYer the Durametric is your best solution.
  35. 1 point
    The correct filter for an early 996 is the 986-307-403-00, which was also used in the Boxster.
  36. 1 point
    If it is not resetting after a turn then it is likely broken and needs replacement - sorry.
  37. 1 point
    Yes, but that part is from MY2002 and newer cars so the rear lid design changed. I do not know the proper dimensions for that newer logo on and older model.
  38. 1 point
    In many states these upgrades are illegal due to excessive glare as the headlight's do not have the correct projectors to create the proper beam cut off. Absolute ticket bait as well.
  39. 1 point
    I received a call from Jake and he said they started assembly work on the motor this week. Right on schedule with the dates he gave me back in August. Pictures coming soon.
  40. 1 point
    999 631 147 90 - Bulb 3W 996 731 531 01 01C - Mirror glass with frame (satin black)
  41. 1 point
    I am not 100% certain, but if you take off the plastic trim cover covering the hood latch, you should be able to see everything. You pull the interior cover back a bit to reach the bolts that hold the hood latch to the frame. It is all pretty straight forward from there.
  42. 1 point
  43. 1 point
    No joy, fitted new button and now fully working!
  44. 1 point
    Well... I jacked-up the car to inspect and as I was jacking I saw two drops of oil. Thinking to myself maybe the bracket holding the solenoid broke (I read that somewhere on one of the forums), something simple. But when I got under the vehicle there was quite a bit of oil on the front of the cam cover (nearest the passenger compartment). Closer inspection I discovered the cam cover is cracked near the top probably a couple inches long. I have a major issue (possibly broken cam). Now I need to decide how to replace the motor... Rebuild, salvage, new, Jake Raby. Wish me luck. My wife asked, "how could this happen? You take car of your cars and don't abuse them." My reply... "things break".
  45. 1 point
  46. 1 point
    I recently, yesterday, noticed one of the pair of washer nozzles on the passenger side of my 01 C4 was gone. I blame the guys who did my car inspection because it was not missing before then. Personally, I don't care if it has a washer or not since I have never used it and don't see using the system any time soon if ever. I googled just a replacement nozzle head and figured they were commonly lost and relatively inexpensive. It turned out that everyone wants to sell you the ENTIRE unit for around $220 and some state the bumper must be removed to replace. That sounded stupid to me on the order of replacing your entire lawn irrigation system every time I ran over a sprinkler head with the lawn mower. I have a 3D printer and after doing a design that at least in theory should allow water to be forced through it, i printed out a replacement nozzle head. It took me 3 design tries to get just the right dimension but I finally had a snug fitting visually idential copy of the lost nozzle. I tried to design it at least somewhat functional but like I said I don't really care if it works or not, just that it covers up the obvious hole where it used to sit. The problem I encountered was the piece is tiny and I was reaching the resolution limit of my printer a Makerbot 2. This caused problems with the sphere design having a shell to thin to print correctly. I may later redisign the top sphere part and give it a thicker shell or simply forgo the sphere design and make it an angled tube instead.
  47. 1 point
  48. 1 point
    Removing and installing rear center panel 1.Removing rear roof trim panel. Grasp underneath the roof trim panel 1 at the side and, pulling in direction of arrow, carefully remove it from the cable clamps 2. 2. Remove sound absorbent film.3. Unscrew fastening nut 1 and remove seal 2. 4. Extend rear spoiler manually. Unscrew fastening screws 1 and remove rear centre panel 2 upwards until the electric plug connection can be released. 5. Insert a screwdriver from the side and release the locking tab Arrow A and pull off the connector. Removing auxiliary brake light in rear center panel1. Raise rear center panel away from the vehicle, release the electric connector using a small screwdriver A and unplug it.2. Turn the rear center panel over and set it down on a suitable protective base. 3. The auxiliary brake light is clipped into the rear center panel six times in total. Starting from the outside, put your finger through the openings in the rear center panel and release the clips from behind A. At the same time, release the clips from the front using the screwdriver B and pull the ends of the auxiliary brake light carefully out of the rear center panel. 4. Push the two locking mechanisms for the auxiliary brake light (center) together with a screwdriver and pull the brake light out of the rear center panel. Installation is the reverse.
  49. 1 point
    Removal Convertible top in service position 1. Removing side-panel lining. Removing side-panel lining -1-. 2. Removing rear side window inner seal. Remove front and rear fastening screws -2- from the convertible top support and the mount for the belt guide section, and pull rear side window inner seal -3- up and out. 3. Closing side window. Press the micro-switch -4- in the windscreen frame and actuate the rocker switch -5- at the same time. 4. Releasing power window. Release adjusting elements with the adjustment tool -7-. To do this, loosen and unscrew the nuts -6- from the adjusting element. Adjustment tool for the rear power window. 5. Detaching convertible-top support. Remove fastening screws -2- and fastening nut -8- from convertible-top support -10- and pull the deflection fitting and mount for the belt guide section -9- up and out. Pull convertible-top support -10- inward and fix between B-pillar and the convertible-top support with a spacing block -12- dimension - A = 30 mm. 6. Removing power window. Push rear power window -11- upward and push both locking tabs of the electrical connection -13- outward and disconnect. Install 1.Inserting power window. Connect electrical plug connection -13-, insert power window -11- into the window shaft from above and position in the mounts in the inner side section. 2. Screwing down convertible-top support. Remove spacing block -12- between B-pillar and convertible top support -10-, Position fastening screws -2- and fastening nut -8- in convertible-top support -10- and tighten, Tightening torque 23 Nm (17 ftlb,). Push deflection fitting into the mount for the belt guide section -9-, Screw in and tighten fastening screws -2-. Tightening torque 50 Nm (37 ftlb.). 3/4. Adjusting and screw down power window. By moving the power window -4- with respect to the longitudinal axis of the vehicle, the power window can be adjusted by dimension Y = ± 10 mm, The contact pressure of the side window upper edge on the convertible top is adjusted by screwing the lower adjusting element -A- in or out by dimension X = ± 10 mm-, The contact pressure on the rear window inner seal or the offset from the door window is adjusted by screwing both of the upper adjusting elements -B- in or out by dimension X = ± 5 mm. Adjust the basic setting of the adjusting elements -B- of the top edge of the rear side section relative to the side window, Dimension C Front top edge of rear side section = 11 mm Dimension D Rear top edge of rear side section = 14 mm Push the power window backward or forward and adjust the gap between the side window and door window to E = 9 mm, Adjust the contour or the offset from the door window at adjusting element -A-, Tighten adjusting elements -A- and -B-, Tightening torque 23 Nm (17 ftlb.). 5. Installing rear side window inner seal. Insert rear side window inner seal -3- into rear side section slot and position on the convertible-top support or mount for belt guide section, Screw in and tighten fastening screws -2-. 6. Install side-panel lining.
  50. 1 point
    Please RSVP in the Community calendar and PM me if you have any questions: http://www.renntech....ara-california/ Alright, if you have been putting off that oil change, want to learn how to work on your car, or cringe at the though of putting a wrench to that fine instrument you drive- fear not. I am organizing a Work on Cars day in Santa Clara. We will have access to a Porsche race shop that will provide us a nice, clean work space. WHEN: Saturday Dec 10th TIME: 9am-? WHERE: Elephant Racing 625 Nuttman Street Santa Clara, CA 95054 PARTS: You can order parts from the site sponsor by emailing them at porscheatcost@sunsetimports.com or your favorite parts supplier Last-Minute Parts: I have arranged Saturday access to a local dealership parts department from 10am-2pm for any forgotten or last minute parts/supplies needed Due to low RSVP count, the parts arrangements have been cancelled. THINGS TO CONSIDER BRINGING: Hand tools Jack/Jack stands PIWIS/PST2/Durametric Portable Chair Lunch (I will bring a grill for those that want to BBQ) Catch pan (for those doing oil/coolant changes) Empty milk jugs for taking used fluids away (don't plan on disposing of them there) creeper or packing blanket (something comfortable while working on your car) ITEMS TO CONSIDER DOING: [Please budget enough time to finish just in case you plan a full engine teardown] Suspension upgrades Bumper removal for radiator cleaning Oil Change Water Pump Motor Mounts Serpentine Belt Air Filter Coolant Reservoir Alternator change Third Radiator install 4th stalk install (On-Board Computer) Replace horns (requires bumper removal) Headlight replacement Smoked/Clear side marker/tailight swap iPod/iPhone cable install on head unit Window regulator replacement GT3 front brake air duct upgrade Antenna TSB for greater remote range Transmission/Differential gear oil change ... LIST OF AVAILABLE TOOLS: Genuine Porsche oil filter tool Radio removal tools Low profile jack Jack stands Basic assortment of metric wrenches/sockets Internal Torx sockets Allen Sockets UView Airlift 55000 (used to replace coolant via vacuum) [PLEASE POST IF YOU HAVE ANY SPECIAL TOOLS YOU PLAN TO BRING AND I WILL UPDATE THE LIST]
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