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Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 10/19/2019 in Posts

  1. 1 point
    In order to see the outside air temp, the car has to have the on board computer option.
  2. 1 point
    The booster should have a check valve ,,, now ON my jeep when it died it made a guinea pig whistling noise..
  3. 1 point
  4. 1 point
    Welcome to RennTech! Beautiful looking car...….good luck with it.
  5. 1 point
    There is a vacuum line to the brake booster right behind the firewall. Have you checked that? Might be a bad seal or something. See #10 here Brake Master Cylinder Brake Booster Pre-charge Pump WWW.AUTOATLANTA.COM
  6. 1 point
    I've had one ABS pump on a BMW go south,, it made some really odd noises when the pressure pump started eating its own guts, if the accumulator does not come up to pressure,, it will run for quite a while,, You can always pull the ABS fuse and see if it still makes the noise.. Or pull the beuty cover in teh frunk and have someone turn it on whle you listen the pump is fairly obvious in my 2003.. 🙂
  7. 1 point
    Probably either a loose connection or the leveling servo is out. You should be able to activate the system with the Durametric or PIWIS and see what is going on.
  8. 1 point
    Fluids, like solid objects, can transmit noise. If the throw out bearing is going south, it can transmit that noise to clutch slave, and forward to the clutch reservoir, which is just on the opposite side of the firewall from the clutch pedal. Put the car on a lift and listen by the bellhousing, if the bearing is bad, you should hear it.
  9. 1 point
    You had a hydraulic not mechanical clutch. Does the ticking speed increase if you touch the accelerator lightly? Is it there at any time while driving? Johan
  10. 1 point
    Got an email about this and can't offer any mechanical advice but had a similar Durametric issue with the codes not matching Porsches codes. After numerous calls to Durametric, they acknowledged there was a bug in their 997.2 profile that transposed the digits. They were going to work on a fix so check to see if you have the most current rev. I never used it again so don't know firsthand. Good luck!
  11. 1 point
  12. 1 point
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  14. 1 point
    So, when last we saw our hero, he was attempting to change out his old, yellowed and leaking expansion tank for a bright, clean new one. He removed the old expansion tank fairly easily after some yanking and twisting and turning. Installation of the new one, however, was destined to be a true test of character. He noticed that at first glance, the two tanks appeared similar yet, when compared side by side, there were slight differences, the primary one being a triangular section at the rear providing added capacity. He tucked all of the coolant and SAI hoses out of the way and commenced to attempt to put a square peg into an oblong hole. He undid the fuel rail feed/return lines and continued to push and twist and shove. He undid the motor mounts, lowered the engine as far as it would go, and continued the pushing, shoving and twisting. He removed the motor mounts altogether and attempted to wedge the engine sideways to obtain more space but, alas, there was no joy. Gentle readers, by this point the foul language had commenced, language so vulgar and cruel that decorum precludes its repetition on a family oriented forum. It is said, typically in hushed tones around a blazing campfire after several apertifs, that his head spun around 360 degrees on his shoulders, not unlike Linda Blair in "The Exorcist". Finally, he removed the upper black plastic bracket and, voila, the new tank fit where the old tank had been. Now our hero must deduce how to get the new tank past the bracket upon which it hangs in situs. In consideration of the amount of time, effort and foul language expended to this point, our hero was reduced to the most extreme of measures: surgery! He got out the dreaded cut off wheel and whacked off the first third of the black bracket, including the tabs, at an angle conducive to the tank's shape, and then there was joy and rejoicing, and candy!
  15. 1 point
    Thomas, the pump literally is used to make sure the hot coolant flows back and circulates properly to the heater matrix(s)to keep passengers warm, it also send it back to the rear heater matrix (if fitted). Some cayenne have a.c. evaporator and heater matrix in the boot as well as in the lower dash. "Four zone climate control" option I believe it was called. The "rest" button just runs this pump when the engine is off and the passengers are asking for warm air still from the interior fan hence hot coolant is required to circulate by electric pump. Hello from the UK my friend.
  16. 1 point
    I was lucky enough to get a hold of 2 944's for $300. 1985 turbo which is my project. And a 1987 which is my parts car. Sent from my SM-N920T using Tapatalk
  17. 1 point
    Very happy with my 996. Original IMS and still running at 110k miles.
  18. 1 point
    Hi I ordered a PIWIS 2 kit a couple of weeks ago. I finally got round today to connecting it to car and having a play around for the first time and familiarising myself with the menus and functions. Ran through all the headings 1. Fault Memory 2. Actual Values input signals 3. Drive Links checks 4. Coding Adaptations 5. Maintenance repairs and 6. Programming. And then I made a mistake, I was about to finish and out of curiosity I on the programming menu I selected Auto programming and ran it. It starting running but then the installation aborted. The cars modules seemed to have decoded itself. The electric rear spoiler retracted and what I can assume is the cooling fans are constantly on when the car ignition or engine is switched on. I’ve rerun the scan but cannot see any modules on the car and I seem to have accidently wiped the modules. I have spent the remainder of today going through every single menu/option on the PIWIS to try and recode but have had not success in recoding/programming the modules back (I don’t even have a working instrument cluster although the car engine starts and drives) Does anyone have any advice on how I rectify this? I have a 2009 997.2
  19. 1 point
    Strange, we still get them with the coating, but then we buy them in bulk. In any case, the rule of thumb is simple: Anything that rotates, vibrates, is time consuming to get at, or can come flying out if the bolts come loose will benefit from Loctite. As I noted earlier, we Loctite flywheel and pressure plate bolts on every make of car, you really do not want these to come loose. The axle flange bolts are an excellent example, we find loose ones all the time. Loctite is cheap, repairing a car that has had a pressure plate or flywheel come loose is not.
  20. 1 point
    FisterD is Contributing Member here - why not just ask him?
  21. 1 point
    Please RSVP in the Community calendar and PM me if you have any questions: http://www.renntech....ara-california/ Alright, if you have been putting off that oil change, want to learn how to work on your car, or cringe at the though of putting a wrench to that fine instrument you drive- fear not. I am organizing a Work on Cars day in Santa Clara. We will have access to a Porsche race shop that will provide us a nice, clean work space. WHEN: Saturday Dec 10th TIME: 9am-? WHERE: Elephant Racing 625 Nuttman Street Santa Clara, CA 95054 PARTS: You can order parts from the site sponsor by emailing them at porscheatcost@sunsetimports.com or your favorite parts supplier Last-Minute Parts: I have arranged Saturday access to a local dealership parts department from 10am-2pm for any forgotten or last minute parts/supplies needed Due to low RSVP count, the parts arrangements have been cancelled. THINGS TO CONSIDER BRINGING: Hand tools Jack/Jack stands PIWIS/PST2/Durametric Portable Chair Lunch (I will bring a grill for those that want to BBQ) Catch pan (for those doing oil/coolant changes) Empty milk jugs for taking used fluids away (don't plan on disposing of them there) creeper or packing blanket (something comfortable while working on your car) ITEMS TO CONSIDER DOING: [Please budget enough time to finish just in case you plan a full engine teardown] Suspension upgrades Bumper removal for radiator cleaning Oil Change Water Pump Motor Mounts Serpentine Belt Air Filter Coolant Reservoir Alternator change Third Radiator install 4th stalk install (On-Board Computer) Replace horns (requires bumper removal) Headlight replacement Smoked/Clear side marker/tailight swap iPod/iPhone cable install on head unit Window regulator replacement GT3 front brake air duct upgrade Antenna TSB for greater remote range Transmission/Differential gear oil change ... LIST OF AVAILABLE TOOLS: Genuine Porsche oil filter tool Radio removal tools Low profile jack Jack stands Basic assortment of metric wrenches/sockets Internal Torx sockets Allen Sockets UView Airlift 55000 (used to replace coolant via vacuum) [PLEASE POST IF YOU HAVE ANY SPECIAL TOOLS YOU PLAN TO BRING AND I WILL UPDATE THE LIST]
  22. 1 point
    I've found no appreciable difference with them in. The center plexiglass windscreen, however, does make a big difference.
  23. 1 point
    Thanks for the replies. When I bought the centre piece, it definitely made a big difference. I had my doubts about the mesh pieces. They are meshes for starters, and also they fit just behind the seat which doesn't make much sense. I will probably save my money on this one then.
  24. 1 point
    Finally got clutch sorted out. When they removed the tranny, they must have supported part of the weight of the tranny on the input drive shaft. This bent the disk slightly. After reinstalling it this made it wobble and drag slightly when released. Got a new disc installed with many appologies. 0 dollars out of pocket. Grief and worry was no charge.
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