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Leaderboard


Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 08/11/2019 in all areas

  1. 1 point
    Item 16 is 3 nuts per side that the muffler (mounting bracket on the muffler) to the mounting bracket on the car. Item 19 is 2 bolts per side that hold the mounting bracket to the chassis. When I remove the mufflers I just remove the 3 (per side) nuts 16. I have never seen any damage on these.
  2. 1 point
  3. 1 point
    It depends how much. Top bar of the readout flashing? Or worse? Removing the oil filter and replacing will take out an amount to fix a small overfill. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  4. 1 point
  5. 1 point
    996 Ignition Switch replace (just the switch) with pictures First off - thanks to everyone who has been down this road before me for providing tips and suggestions and troubleshooting regarding this common problem. I have been dealing with a key that would stay all the way to the right upon starting meaning that the A/C, heated seats and some other items would not function. My solution had been to simply start the car and then just move the key back one notch to the left and everything worked fine. So if others have that issue, my original solution Author scb71 Category Carrera (996) - Common Fixes and Repairs Submitted 09/16/2009 01:31 PM Updated 03/13/2017 05:24 AM  
  6. 1 point
    Just get your car's option code list and check the codes against the master list here:
  7. 1 point
    Tape...find the ground wire and wrap some tape around the connector. That means it is not connected to anything. Originally the brown ground wire was connected to the radio chassis. Now what you want to do is disconnect the ground wire and wrap some tape around the connector so it is not touching anything.
  8. 1 point
    Unless your fault code is exactly the same as the original poster you are likely just guessing. Best to get a Porsche fault code reader and see what your fault code(s) are.
  9. 1 point
    No joy, fitted new button and now fully working!
  10. 1 point
    Here's a good video showing how to do this:
  11. 1 point
    Removing and installing rear center panel 1.Removing rear roof trim panel. Grasp underneath the roof trim panel 1 at the side and, pulling in direction of arrow, carefully remove it from the cable clamps 2. 2. Remove sound absorbent film.3. Unscrew fastening nut 1 and remove seal 2. 4. Extend rear spoiler manually. Unscrew fastening screws 1 and remove rear centre panel 2 upwards until the electric plug connection can be released. 5. Insert a screwdriver from the side and release the locking tab Arrow A and pull off the connector. Removing auxiliary brake light in rear center panel1. Raise rear center panel away from the vehicle, release the electric connector using a small screwdriver A and unplug it.2. Turn the rear center panel over and set it down on a suitable protective base. 3. The auxiliary brake light is clipped into the rear center panel six times in total. Starting from the outside, put your finger through the openings in the rear center panel and release the clips from behind A. At the same time, release the clips from the front using the screwdriver B and pull the ends of the auxiliary brake light carefully out of the rear center panel. 4. Push the two locking mechanisms for the auxiliary brake light (center) together with a screwdriver and pull the brake light out of the rear center panel. Installation is the reverse.
  12. 1 point
    Note: Part numbers sometimes change without notice. Always double check with your supplier that you have the latest part numbers. (Edit - July 25, 2006 - Updated the clutch bleeding procedure to the latest procedure as outlined in supplement 98 of the Carrera Service Manual - Loren) Parts you will need: 1 liter (minimum) 000 043 203 66 Porsche DOT 4 Brake Fluid or equal (ATE Gold or ATE Super Blue) Tools you will need: Jack 19 mm socket for wheel bolts Motive Power Bleeder (or equal) image Needle Nose Pliers 11 mm wrench for brakes; 9 mm for clutch slave (sizes vary from car to car but they are usually 9 mm or 11 mm) Plastic tubing and waste container (at least 1 liter) Jack up the vehicle at the lift points provided and remove the rear wheel (you will need to do this for each wheel). Remove the cap on the master cylinder reservoir. Remove the plastic screen using a pair of needle nose pliers. This can be a little bit challenging but it will pop off (be careful with the brake fluid.. it eats paint!) Use a syringe (or turkey baster... just don't reuse it) and suck out as much of the old fluid as possible. Fill the master cylinder reservoir with new fluid. Put the rest in the power bleeder. Screw the cap that came with the power bleeder onto the master cylinder reservoir. Put the pressure cap with the pump handle on the power bleeder and pump it up to just under 20 psi - do not go over 20 psi! Bleed order - Right rear, Left rear, Right front, Left front. Place your drain tube over the outside bleed nipple and in the bottle (remember it will need to hold a liter when you are done). Bleed the outer bleeder valve first. Open each bleeder valve until clear, bubble free brake fluid emerges. Take care to bleed at each brake caliper and at both bleeder valves. Carefully tighten the bleed screw. Wipe off the area and replace the rubber protective cap over the bleed screw. Repeat steps 8-10 for the interior bleed screw. Then reinstall the wheel and move on to the next wheel. Note: It makes sense to check the pressure and amount of fluid in the tank between wheels. Running out of fluid means starting over and getting air out. Optional Clutch Bleeding This is best done when you are bleeding the left (driver's side) rear wheel as the clutch bleed valve is mounted high above the axle on the transmission. Push the clutch pedal in by hand (very slowly) and use a long piece of wood to hold the pedal down. I wedged the other end (of the wood) between the seat and door frame -- with plenty of soft padding to avoid scratches. A second option is to have a 2nd person sit in the car and keep the clutch pedal FULLY depressed. Open the clutch bleeder valve until clear, bubble free brake fluid emerges (at least 30 seconds according to Porsche). Remove the wood. Then, pump the pedal again very slowly by hand for a further 60 seconds. After pressing the pedal down fully about 10 to 15 times, leave the pedal in its normal position. After allowing a fill time of 90 seconds, check that no more air bubbles appear at the bleeder valve (use a collecting bottle with a transparent hose). Then close the bleeder valve. Wipe off the area and replace the rubber protective cap over the bleed screw. You may notice that the clutch pedal does not return... so carefully pull it up (slowly) to it's normal position. Then depress it (slowly) a few (at least 5) times. In a few cycles the feel should return. [*]Torque the wheels bolts to 96 ftlb. (130 Nm). [*]Do a final check on the brake fluid level and top up if needed.
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