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Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 05/29/2019 in all areas

  1. 5 points
    This DIY tutorial covers how to remove the intake manifold on the 3.6L V6 Cayenne. Removing the intake manifold gives you access to several parts of the engine that you may need to service. Disclaimer: Perform at your own risk. This is for reference only, I am not responsible for any damage/injuries that may occur from this procedure. Please do not attempt if you are not comfortable with doing work on your car or working around the fuel system. Work in a well ventilated area as you will be releasing a small amount of gas and fumes. Difficulty: 5/10 Estimated Time: ~2 hours If you’re getting a Durametric error code P0674, you likely have a bad PCV valve that needs to be replaced. An easy way to test a bad PCV valve is to unscrew the oil fill cap on the engine while it is idling. If you feel suction on the cap and/or the idle fluctuates once the cap is removed then your PCV valve is bad. The PCV valve is built into the valve cover so your options are to buy a whole new valve cover assembly (95510513500- ~$347) or buy just the PCV membrane (aftermarket $20-25) and replace it in your existing valve cover. To get access to the valve cover, you will need to follow this DIY article to remove the intake manifold first. Other reasons to remove the intake manifold are to service your fuel injectors or to make it much easier to replace the thermostat. The thermostat can be changed without removing the intake manifold (I did it twice), however you basically need to be a contortionist to reach the bolts to remove housing and you will scrape some knuckles along the way. Tools Needed: -Flathead screwdriver -Assortment of torx bits (T20, T25, T30, 6” long T30) -Pliers -Torque Wrench -3/8” ratchet set with various extensions and a universal joint -1 1/16” Deep socket -10mm Triple Square Spline Bit -Crescent Wrench -9/16” Open End Wrench -Dental pick Parts Needed: -Brake Booster Vacuum Hose- 95535557941 (your existing hose is probably brittle and will likely crack from removing it, I recommend getting a new one) -Lower Fuel Injector Seal Kit (3X) - 95511091000 (existing seals may be brittle and once you have removed the intake manifold, they may not seal properly upon reinstallation, I recommend getting new ones, need 3 sets) Procedure: First start by removing the plastic covers surrounding the engine. Using a flathead screwdriver, remove the quarter turn plastic trim fasteners. Rotate them in either direction by 90 degrees and pop them out. Be ready to catch them as sometimes they like to jump out. Next you will need to remove the 2 torx screws on either side of the engine cover with a T25 bit and the screw under the windshield washer reservoir cap with a T20 bit. Remove the oil fill cap and front engine cover by pulling straight up. They are held on by friction rings around a stud so pulling straight up will release it. Now that you have the covers removed, it’s time to remove the intake filter box and intake piping. Using your T25 torx bit, rotate the 2 screws until the dot on the screwhead lines up with the lower indication on the filter cover. Now gently use your pliers to pull them straight out. With your flathead screwdriver, pop up the two clips to release the filter housing. Pivot the filter house towards the passenger side of the car and remove it. Remove the engine air filter as well. Next, remove the wiring harness from the MAF sensor located in the middle of the intake piping. Loosen the clamp around the intake piping on the throttle body and gently work the intake piping back and forth until it releases from the throttle body. Remove the top bolt on the engine lift bracket and loosen the lower bolt with your M10 triple square bit. Then pivot the bracket towards the front of the car. Remove the bolt next to the throttle body with your M10 triple square bit. Then unplug the wire harness from the throttle body. Remove the top bolt from the bracket on the passenger side of the engine with your M10 triple square bit. Remove the vacuum lines from the intake manifold on the passenger side of the engine. One hose requires pliers to open the hose clamp, the other can be removed by hand if you squeeze the lock ring around the hose to release it. Next, from the passenger side, reach your hand around to the back side of the engine. There is a vacuum line that goes from the bottom surface of the intake manifold to the brake booster. You will need to pull the vacuum line fitting straight down to pop it out of the intake manifold. I don't have a good picture of it so here is a diagram of it. Pull down on the elbow fitting, not the hose. Also on the back side of the engine just behind the vacuum line you removed there is a bolt that needs to be removed using your M10 triple square bit. You are working blindly so locate the bolt first by feel and guide your bit to the bolt. Remove the 3 screws holding the actuator with a T25 torx bit. Slowly pull it straight out towards the front of the car. There is an actuator arm that attaches to a shaft on the passenger side of the part. Once you have enough clearance to reach your finger in there, you need to slide the arm off the shaft as you pull the entire actuator off. Then disconnect the vacuum hose from the actuator. Now pull the coolant hoses out of their holder in the intake manifold and push it towards the driver side of the car. There is a T25 torx screw that attaches this water hose bracket near the back of the intake manifold. The screw is facing up, so you need to use your T25 torx bit and get creative with removing that screw. I used a crescent wrench to turn the torx bit while holding the torx bit in place with my other hand. With the water hose bracket free, slide the water hose bracket towards the front of the car to release it from the intake manifold. This bracket has a keyhole slot that will release once it's slid forward. Remove the oil dipstick tube bracket with a T25 torx bit. Just push it out of the way once you remove the screw. With your long T30 torx bit, remove the bolt on the intake manifold that was under the actuator. Next, there are 3 blind holes on the driver side of the intake manifold. You need to use your long T30 torx bit to loosen the screws inside those holes. Those 3 screws are captive screws so they will not come out. There are 3 bolts below the intake runners. They need to be removed with your M10 triple square bit. This is where your universal joint will come in handy. The bolt near the rear of the engine required me to use my u-joint with various entensions to acess. At this point, you will hear gas leaking out. Since you have released the pressure from the lower fuel rail to the lower fuel injectors, the pressurized gas in the rail will leak out. Make sure you are working in a well ventilated area. From the driver side of the car, reach behind the engine to remove the wire harness from the fuel pressure sensor. Using your 1 1/16” deep socket, unscrew and remove the fuel pressure sensor. Using your 9/16” open wrench, unscrew the nut that connects the metal fuel line running from the lower fuel rail. The slimmer your wrench the better. My crescent wrench did not fit here. Now that the intake manifold is completely unbolted, you can start to wiggle it free. You will need to lift the manifold up from the passenger side and pivot it up towards the driver side. You will need to wiggle the lower fuel rail loose to release the metal fuel line you just unscrewed the nut from. It is a flare fitting that pushes into the upper fuel rail assembly. Be gentle here as you don’t want to bend the fuel rail. Once the metal fuel line is free from the upper assembly, you can remove the intake manifold as described above by lifting up from the passenger side first to pivot it off. At this point, you have access to the fuel injectors if you need to service them, the thermostat housing and the valve cover. Unbolting the valve cover is straight forward from here if you need to replace the PCV valve, etc. The fuel injector seal kit comes with a rubber o-ring, Teflon o-ring, Teflon sleeve and metal clip. At the bare minimum you should replace the rubber o-ring and Teflon o-ring. Use a dental pick to remove the old o-rings. These 2 parts are the wear surface when you remove/reinstall the intake manifold and are prone to fail if you re-use them. Trust me, I learned the hard way. To install the intake manifold, reverse the steps above. Take care in sliding the lower fuel rail back onto the lower fuel injectors and lining up the metal fuel line back into the flare fitting. I found it was easier to pull the lower fuel line out of the manifold to line the flare fitting up first, then pushing it into place in the intake manifold. You want to apply even pressure on the surface as you tighten all 7 of the bolts down on the driver side. Torque the 3 triple square bolts evenly to 6 ft lbs, torque angle 90 degrees, then a final torque of 22 ft lbs. The bolts holding the engine lift bracket are 17 ft lbs, the other triple square bolts holding the manifold on the head are 15 ft lbs. Once you get it all back together, turn the key to the ON then START position without your foot on the brake. This will run the fuel pumps to build pressure back up in the fuel rail. I removed the key and repeated 2-3 times to get the fuel pressure up. The first time you restart, it may take a couple seconds to fire up due to the fuel pressure needing to build back up. If you replaced your PCV valve, it may idle rough as the ECU needs to remap since it adapted to a leaking PCV valve over time. If you did not replace the fuel injector seals and smell gas/hear it leaking after shutting off the engine, then your seals failed and you need to repeat the procedure and replace those seals.
  2. 3 points
    First off - thanks to everyone who has been down this road before me for providing tips and suggestions and troubleshooting regarding this common problem. I have been dealing with a key that would stay all the way to the right upon starting meaning that the A/C, heated seats and some other items would not function. My solution had been to simply start the car and then just move the key back one notch to the left and everything worked fine. So if others have that issue, my original solution will work but obviously the problem remains and at some point you may end up stranded if the ignition switch completely fails. I stumbled upon some of the other threads and found that this needed fixing and I opted to replace just the switch as opposed to upgrading to the new complete unit that Porsche has moved to. This procedure is not new to the board, but I thought a step by step with pictures may be useful to those looking for an inexpensive solution. It cost me $12.11 including tax. If your ignition mechanism has been changed to the newer revised unit the ignition switch is a different part number but I assume the steps would be the same. The part for just the switch - no longer available through Porsche since they are only selling the entire $150 unit - is 4A0905849B. The switch alone is available mail order through Pelican for $10, Autohausaz.com was +/- $8.75, Ebay has them all over the map from $15-30. All of these options will work but require shipping charges and delivery time. I was hoping for a local option since I had the time to do it today. Here is what I found in Houston - a local Audi dealer had one in stock for $35, while VW had to order it (for more than $35 believe it or not). Doing a search online at parts stores using my Porsche got me nowhere so I opted to use an older Audi - in my case a 1997 Audi A8 since the part is the same. I found Autozone had one for >$40, OReilly came up blank but I did not call to check, a specialty imports place had one for $27 and then I found it in stock at NAPA for $11.19 + tax. Since NAPA seems to have stores all over the place I suggest looking there first if you don't feel like mail order. The complete part number at NAPA was ATM 4A0905849B using the 1997 Audi A8 as the vehicle. Here is a picture of the NAPA part (left) alongside the original part which I removed from my 996 cab - note the AUDI rings on the old part. Equipment needed: Small flat screwdriver - eyeglass or electronics size Philips screwdriver Torx driver 10mm wrench rubber pry tool Cold beer to celebrate 1) Disconnect the battery - I just undid the negative with a 10mm wrench 2) OPTIONAL but makes the job easier than the shop manual in my opinion. Remove the side air vent by pulling the headlight switch towards you and inserting a small blade screwdriver up from the six o'clock position. You should notice a spring like resistance which will release the knob and allow it to pull towards you. Here is a picture of the back of the knob showing the release mechanism Once the knob is off remove the three torx screws – one in the headlight control recess and two on the side After the screws are out take a rubber pry tool (or be careful with a flat screwdriver) and remove the vent housing - it will pull towards you with a little effort but not much. Once off I pulled it out far enough to gain access but left the headlight control connected because I was lazy and saw no need to unhook it. I forgot to take a picture of this part but it should be self explanatory. You will now see a philips screw directly in the back of the air vent - remove. 3) Crawl under the dash and remove the center piece (A) of the air vent - there is not much room and you will not miss it. The piece can be nudged towards the side to release on one end and then the other. Since you removed the screw from above you should be able to remove the middle and side piece now out the bottom. 4) Unplug switch by pulling directly off the back - do not unhook the purple tabs just pull the entire unit back. Make sure to pull this off BEFORE unscrewing and removing the switch as the screws holding the switch in make this much easier than trying to get a hand in there - believe me I jumped ahead and then resorted to screwing it back in. 5) Unscrew two set screws - one on the bottom on one on the opposite side. The screws are coated with red paint that may need to be chipped through with your screwdriver before you can get the screw to grab. I unscrewed the bottom screw while under the dash and then from the seat I reached under and could view the top screw through the side vent area and unscrewed it. Do not remove the screws just undo them far enough to remove the ignition switch. Bottom screw noted in this picture Top screw as viewed from side vent opening - this can also be done from underneath but the small space and clutch pedal against my head led me to look for easier access 6) Now that the screws are loose you should be able to pull the ignition switch out and replace it with the new one. Screw in the set screws, hook the harness back to it and get ready for a cold beer - not quite but almost 7) Slide out from under the foot well, hook up the battery and see if all is well. You may as well check before reattaching the rest. If the car starts as it should you will notice a nice smooth ignition with the slight spring back to the left just after ignition. Hook up the air vents, screw everything back together and push the headlight knob back in place 8) Crack open a cold beer and smile - you just saved a lot of money. This is one of the simplest "repair" DIY out there - it took me probably less than 20 minutes including removing the side vent and I took my time since I had never done it before. If I need to replace it again - which is likely - it will be even quicker. You can always replace the entire ignition module with the new and improved unit at around $150 I think - and alot more effort - but for $12 and 20 minutes I am hoping I can get some decent life out of this switch and then just replace it again in a few years if I need to. Like I said before - this is not a new DIY but I am hopeful that these pictures will be helpful. Thanks again to all of those who provided the prior posts.
  3. 2 points
    A couple of days ago my head unit started cycling off and on every minute or so. I found some posts that these things are notorious for failing so I started looking for a place that would repair it. Luckily I found the Becker office in Saddle Brook NJ, called them, and they emailed me instructions how to fix it. Apparently my XM SAT provider caused the problem. It required a reboot as per below: WARNING It was brought to our attention, that the PCM 3.0 and 3.1 units have been rebooting continuously on a number of Porsche vehicles at the moment. It seems that a signal was sent by SiriusXM which has caused this issue. SiriusXM and Porsche are investigating currently and are working on a fix. VERY Important: Please DO NOT replace any parts or hardware on a vehicle, due to this issue. In order to rectify this issue, you will perform a “PCM handover” (also known as a PCM Hard Reset). Instructions are listed below; Press and hold the PCM>>Info button for approximately 10 seconds until the PCM reboots. Immediately select the following from the PCM; CAR>>OPTION>>Set PCM System>>Reset PCM>>Vehicle Handover>>Yes>>Yes These instructions can also be found in the respective Owner’s Manuals for affected vehicles. Hopefully this may prevent Dealership / workshop visits. If your vehicle is already at the workshop, recommend that the technician update it to the latest available software level. **PLEASE NOTE: Performing a PCM Hard Reset will also erase all of the radio presets and Bluetooth connections and these will have to be reentered by you after the reset.** In order to rectify this issue, you will perform a “PCM handover” (also known as a PCM Hard Reset). Instructions are listed below; Press and hold the PCM>>Info button for approximately 10 seconds until the PCM reboots. Immediately select the following from the PCM; CAR>>OPTION>>Set PCM System>>Reset PCM>>Vehicle Handover>>Yes>>Yes WARNING Reboot for PCM 3.1.docx
  4. 2 points
    OK, first of all, either twisting wires together and wrapping them with tape, or using wire nuts is totally unacceptable for automotive applications. Both are pathways to shorts and even fires. Wires should be reconnected with crimp connectors at a minimum, with soldering them and then using heat shrink tubing to cover the soldered joints the actual preferred method. Most likely, in the process of doing this swap, you disturbed something, but exactly what is hard to say, particularly as the previous owner used the twisted wire and tape wrap method of connecting things. It is entirely possible that you may have pulled another such "MacGyver" like repair loose that is not related to the radio swap. Probably the best approach at this juncture is to get the vehicle scanned with a Porsche specific scan tool to see what the various communication modules are doing. Good luck with this one.
  5. 2 points
    Hi guys, I bought my 1999 Porsche 911 C4 Tiptronic back in January and I've been doing little projects on it ever since. I used to have a 2016 Dodge Challenger R/T Scat Pack with a 6.4 liter V8 that I traded in last summer, but I was missing the sports car feeling too much so decided to buy the Porsche. One of the things that stood out to me on the test drive was just how sluggish and unresponsive the Tiptronic gearbox felt compared to the one I had in the Dodge. Since the rest of the car was in very good condition (invoices for every oil change & repair going back to 2003, IMS bearing changed, etc.) I decided to buy it anyway, assuming I would get used to having to mash my foot into the carpet everytime I wanted the thing to move. Looking through this forum and others, I heard about the Sprint Booster and how it might help with this problem. For those of you that don't know what this is, it is a small plug that sits between the gas pedal and the cable harness running to the ECU and that changes the signal sent to the car from the position of the gas pedal. The factory set up makes it so that when you push the gas pedal, the revs rise very slowly for the first 50% of pedal travel. I think I read somewhere that halfway down, the pedal will only give you about 25% of the power. This means that in order to get the Tiptronic box to do a downward shift, you really REALLY have to mash the pedal and do it in a quick manner. In general it makes the whole car feel unresponsive and not at all like the free-revving, happy sports car I thought I was getting. The Sprint Booster module (which only works on cars with electronic throttle control or "e-gas" pedal) will take the gas pedal input and modulate it to reflect a more aggressive pedal action. The only thing that changes really is the voltage that is sent to the car's ECU, and how this is calculated in relationship to the position of the gas pedal. The unit comes with a little control gadget where you can set it to one of three basic settings - Factory (simple pass-through, nothing changes from stock), Sport (about a 30% more aggressive response), and Race (about 50% more aggressive). Within both Sport and Race you can then fine tune with an additional setting from 1-9 for each of the two categories. By default the device will put you in "5" or the middle ground. The device costs you about $300 and there is no discount to be had from any of your typical market places. I simply bought mine directly at the manufacturer's website. Since it was my birthday last week, I decided to treat myself and see if it might work. You have a 30-day money back guarantee and the install process is completely reversible, so I figured I'd give it a go. If it actually helps make my tiptronic feel peppy it will have been worth every penny. If not, I'll just return it. For the installation my first problem was figuring out if my particular car had an e-gas or electronic throttle system or not. Looking at the gas pedal I can see a cable running up the bulkhead so I wasn't feeling too optimistic. With the help of others on this forum, I learned that all 996's have e-gas except the 98-99 C2. I also popped the hood and looked at the throttle body itself. To be extra sure, I also asked the vendor to confirm that my particular model would work with the product. The manufacturer's website only shows MY 2000 and beyond as approved for installation, but they came back and confirmed that in fact the -99 C4 does have e-gas and so I could proceed with the purchase. 3-4 days later I get the box in the mail. It is a tiny little thing and doesn't appear to be much for the $300 I paid for it, but whatever. The installation manual shows pictures of the device being plugged into a port located somewhere on the gas pedal assembly itself. It is clearly the most common spot for most manufacturers to link the throttle to the ECU, but that's not the case in a Porsche 996. The gas pedal pulls on a cable and if you follow the cable up from the pedal, you'll see it attaching to a metal box conveniently located under the actual dashboard, and at an impossible angle for any human being to get to. In these cases I like to resort to child labor, so I bribed my 13-year old son to help me. By laying upside down in the driver's seat and sticking his head + one arm under the dashboard, he was able to get the device plugged in correctly in as little as 2 hours. I was basically reduced to cheer leader, and voice of reason to guide his efforts. We made use of my cell phone camera to try and figure out from the pictures how to disconnect the old plug and get the new Sprint Booster in place. The pictures attached to this post will show you how we figured it out: The entire installation process is done by touch and feel as you cannot see any of the components directly. I would recommend our approach of using a camera, talking about what we need to do next, and then use your fingers & imagination to figure out what it is that you are doing. We found it helpful to start with where the cable attaches to the box, then run your fingers over until you hit the little metal flange that sticks out with the white plastic butt underneath it. When you have your hand there you know that the plug itself is just above it. After the initial installation we immediately took the vehicle out for a ride. The gas pedal felt weird, and we had intermittent revving and a noticeable delay when pressing the pedal. I figured it was simply down to the device having to calibrate itself so we went for a ride. 20 minutes in we get a check engine light come on so we headed back to the garage. Ever the optimist, I simply disconnected the battery to reset the CEL and then went out for another drive. This second time it worked beautifully! The car felt like a different animal all together, and the gas response was crisp and immediate. Problem solved, or so I thought, and we called it a day. The second day I went for a drive and got not only a CEL but also the PSM and ABS warning lights. At this time I was ready to call it a day and send the device back since I don't want to have to deal with buggy electronics or stuff that I can't trust. Called up the son again to have him pull everything out and that's when he noticed that the OEM male connector at the end came lose by simply touching it. Turns out we hadn't been able to plug it in all the way until it latched onto the Sprint Booster module. I guess it is not manufactured to the same tight spec as the OEM stuff, and by a fraction of a millimeter the plug can't go in far enough to secure it with the latches. Using force and patience, we eventually managed to push it all the way in until we heard the very satisfying "click" of the plug latching onto the module. If I have to take it off again because it comes loose, I will certainly use a file to remove a bit of material on each latch and ensure that they lock into place without having to push too hard. Since this point I have driven the car 4-5 times and about 50 miles, driving it as I usually do and without holding back in any way. No CEL or other warning lights and the thing runs really well. Having tried the different settings, I have decided to leave it in Sport-5 which I think is a happy medium for a sporty feel without compromising the ability to drive smoothly when you want to. Race mode makes it more binary, and it is like mashing the pedal at every stop light. It might be fun on a track, but for everyday driving it is just too aggressive. In Sport-5 it'll pull away softly in 2nd gear like it did with the factory settings, but if you simply give the pedal a little shove it'll immediately downshift to 1st gear and take off with gusto. All in all I have to say that this was very much worth it. The car feels different - more sporty and responsive, just like you'd want a Porsche to feel like. I know this doesn't add any power to the engine but just by having the Tiptronic gearbox work more like a modern sports car it really changes everything. I'm now planning on driving it for the full 30-day money back period, and if I run into any issue I will post an update to this forum. Cheers, Magnus Update - April 22nd, 2020: I've now driven with the Sprint Booster for 6 weeks and I can honestly say that this was the best bang for the buck modification that I've done to my Porsche. I would rate my Alpine head unit & speaker system upgrade as the mod that I most appreciate, but that was $2,400 and this was only $300. Just be careful with the installation and count on it being a PITA...
  6. 2 points
    Welcome to RennTech On cabriolets, the number 2 relay panel is mounted to the rear of the roll over protection frame. You need to put the top in the "service" position to gain access to it.
  7. 2 points
    Front trunk, rear engine cover, doors, center console, interior sensor.
  8. 2 points
    Are you sure you don't have fuses mixed up? I'm currently on 1 pump in my CS with fuse 14 pulled and can hear the right side pump running/whinning when the car is on. I think Fuse #14 is for the driver side pump and #13 is the right pass side pump, but feel free to correct me If I'm wrong USA
  9. 2 points
    Ok guys, you've been waiting for this, and as promised, here is my brief, but descriptive walkthrough. this is what you will need as the following: Porsche Panel wedge tool Screw Driver w/ T-20 bit and Flat head bit Turbo Instrument Cluster strong fingers! Ok with that cleared away, here is the first step. Remove the black plastic gauge cover above the gauges. Use the wedge tool or , in this case I used my fingers! (don't use the fingers, i highly recomend not to , it hurts hahahah). Remember , you will need to apply gentle but enough pressure to detach the tabs off from the top cover of the dash that is over the cluster As you can see, the reason why i say "gentle" is because you have the tabs, take them off or apply too much pressure, and those bad boys can break, if anyone had experience with plastic and heat, they can easily become brittle. Just make sure you use precaution. Next, there are 5 screws to detach the dash cluster cover. 4 screws are attached to the top of the gauge cluster, while one (in back) inside the housing is there to hold the cover in place on the main dash. Remember, these are t-20 screws. two are parallel on each side , symmetrical to each other The rear screw, is located in the center back of the gauge cluster cover. as illustrated here. Once all screws are removed, just like the black pastic gauge cover, remove the upper gauge cover off gentley. They are tabbed in place, so apply the righ pressure. Note: when you remove the cover, be sure you have the washer for the 5th screw. This holds and aligns the cover of the cluster in place. as shown here Once the top is off, you will need to gain access to the bottom half. this is where most of the work will be done. here are the major things you will need to do - Remove trip pieces - unscrew support holding ignition/key - remove driver left AC vent Lets begin with taking off the side cover where the fuse housing is and the AC vent. Use the wedge tool to open the side panel and to take the ac unit out. the AC unit pops out as an entire pice, though the trim may seperate, this is normal, but becareful , damaging the trim will result in a loose fit. The reason for this to come out is there is a screw that holds the lower portion in place, which later will be necessary to access the bottom part of the instrument cluster Next take off the trim. There are three screws, t-20's , that are behing them. use the wedge tool again, gentley take the trim off. Again use precaution when taking them out. the outer ignition/key cover is part of the trim. so make extra effort to be careful Once the trim is removed, and the screws , make sure you remove the support ring , which holds the ignition key in place by way of screwing around the threads of the ignition. there is a special tool for this, but i used a flat head screwdriver to pussh along some tabs gentley till it was unscrewed. Repeat for the trim on the right near the windshield wiper control arm on the steering will. there should be two screws to take off. Also note, the screw inside the AC vent on the left driver side, it should be on the upper corner. Next, once all screws have been removed, gentley remove the tabs off , again, use precaustion, these are tabs, and need to be taken off with extreme care avoiding damage to them, and causing not to fit properly Once the bottom is removed, go ahead and take out the remaining two bottom screws that hold/support of the cluster. Again,these are t-20 screws Once remove, it's self explanetory from there, there are a green and blue connector, with purple latches. unlatch both, and remove the old cluster. Put in the turbo cluster, and presto, turn your car on, and test the cluster b4 putting it back together. your cluster should then boot up and you will see what awaits! Further notes - When you hook up your gauge cluster, you will hear a weird buzzing noise, that's ok, it's just the cluster responding to its connection. You will also notice that your milage should be at 0.0 for new clusters or whoever's previous milage was on it, if you bought it used. So be forwarned, My friend who knows vw/audi's said clusters like these have a tendancy to carry over their last cars info on milage over to whichever car they are being installed. So note to yourself, to write down your actual mileage. Once done, and pre programed, go ahead and put everything back together, and yours should look like this Alright now! I hope everyone is successful as I was, and hope all you skeptics out there can take it easy and rest knowing someone already done this for you! hahahah Enjoy! if you have any other questions or comments, just PM or reply! I'll be more than happy to help! I will also be posting a turbo bumper upgrade too for those who are interested later once i get my spare headlight washer parts in! til then good reading folks :D :P
  10. 2 points
    Note: Part numbers sometimes change without notice. Always double check with your supplier that you have the latest part numbers. (Edit - July 25, 2006 - Updated the clutch bleeding procedure to the latest procedure as outlined in supplement 98 of the Carrera Service Manual - Loren) Parts you will need: 1 liter (minimum) 000 043 203 66 Porsche DOT 4 Brake Fluid or equal (ATE Gold or ATE Super Blue) Tools you will need: Jack 19 mm socket for wheel bolts Motive Power Bleeder (or equal) image Needle Nose Pliers 11 mm wrench for brakes; 9 mm for clutch slave (sizes vary from car to car but they are usually 9 mm or 11 mm) Plastic tubing and waste container (at least 1 liter) Jack up the vehicle at the lift points provided and remove the rear wheel (you will need to do this for each wheel). Remove the cap on the master cylinder reservoir. Remove the plastic screen using a pair of needle nose pliers. This can be a little bit challenging but it will pop off (be careful with the brake fluid.. it eats paint!) Use a syringe (or turkey baster... just don't reuse it) and suck out as much of the old fluid as possible. Fill the master cylinder reservoir with new fluid. Put the rest in the power bleeder. Screw the cap that came with the power bleeder onto the master cylinder reservoir. Put the pressure cap with the pump handle on the power bleeder and pump it up to just under 20 psi - do not go over 20 psi! Bleed order - Right rear, Left rear, Right front, Left front. Place your drain tube over the outside bleed nipple and in the bottle (remember it will need to hold a liter when you are done). Bleed the outer bleeder valve first. Open each bleeder valve until clear, bubble free brake fluid emerges. Take care to bleed at each brake caliper and at both bleeder valves. Carefully tighten the bleed screw. Wipe off the area and replace the rubber protective cap over the bleed screw. Repeat steps 8-10 for the interior bleed screw. Then reinstall the wheel and move on to the next wheel. Note: It makes sense to check the pressure and amount of fluid in the tank between wheels. Running out of fluid means starting over and getting air out. Optional Clutch Bleeding This is best done when you are bleeding the left (driver's side) rear wheel as the clutch bleed valve is mounted high above the axle on the transmission. Push the clutch pedal in by hand (very slowly) and use a long piece of wood to hold the pedal down. I wedged the other end (of the wood) between the seat and door frame -- with plenty of soft padding to avoid scratches. A second option is to have a 2nd person sit in the car and keep the clutch pedal FULLY depressed. Open the clutch bleeder valve until clear, bubble free brake fluid emerges (at least 30 seconds according to Porsche). Remove the wood. Then, pump the pedal again very slowly by hand for a further 60 seconds. After pressing the pedal down fully about 10 to 15 times, leave the pedal in its normal position. After allowing a fill time of 90 seconds, check that no more air bubbles appear at the bleeder valve (use a collecting bottle with a transparent hose). Then close the bleeder valve. Wipe off the area and replace the rubber protective cap over the bleed screw. You may notice that the clutch pedal does not return... so carefully pull it up (slowly) to it's normal position. Then depress it (slowly) a few (at least 5) times. In a few cycles the feel should return. [*]Torque the wheels bolts to 96 ftlb. (130 Nm). [*]Do a final check on the brake fluid level and top up if needed.
  11. 2 points
    The Tiptronic transmission has a special tool for fluid. First you have to purchase the tool (expensive) or make one (inexpensive). The tool is the V.A.G.1924, runs about $300. You need the following tools and parts to start: 1. ATF fill tool 2. 7 (US) Quarts of Pennzoil Multi-Vehicle ATF 3. Torque wrench for 60 ft lbs 4. Torque wrench for 7.5 ft lbs (90 in lbs) 5. 17 mm allen bit 6. 8 mm allen bit 7. Torx 27 bit 8. Temperature meter with probe. I used an Oregon Scientific with a probe that has a 10 ft cord. 9. Porsche part 986 397 016 00 Paper gasket (Call Sunset Porsche, great guys) 10. Porsche part 986 307 403 00 ATF filter 11. Porsche part 986 397 016 00 rubber ring for fill plug 12. Kitty liter, you will spill 13. Socket set 14. Plenty of rags 15. Oil catch pan 16. Safety goggles First we assemble the filling tool out of parts you can find in Lowes or Home Depot type of homestores: 1. Hudson 1 gallon tank ($9.95) 2. Barbed fittings and 8 ft of tygon 3/8 clear hose. 3. 1/4 inch shut off valve - brass 4. 12 inch of flexible copper tube, 1/4" 5. Assemble as shown below and bend the tube per the picture. The steps are easy to follow: 1. Lift car off the ground and on jack stands. I need 16 inches on the stands to be comfortable. 2. Slide oil catch pan under fluid pan and remove drain plug with 8 mm allen bit 3. Remove the cross arm that traverses the fluid pan. Loosen only one bolt, remove the other. It will be easier for the next step and you can prop the arm to help catch the pan when the bolts are removed. 4. When the fluid has drained, secure drain plug back in and torque to 30 ft lbs. 5. Using the Torx 27 bit, remove all the screws crosswise. Move the cross arm out of the way as needed, but put back in a place where the pan will not fall. THE PAN STILL HAS FLUID in it, be careful 6. Remove pan carefully. The green gasket should still be attached to it. 7. Remove the two screws that hold the filter in place. Make sure the oil catch pan is underneath, the filter will have fluid as well. Remove filter. 8. Thinly coat some petroleum jelly on the suction collar of the ATF filter and install filter 9. Install new filter and screw the two screws to a torque of 4.5 ft lbs. 10. Empty the filter pan into the oil catch pan with all the waste oil. Place the filter pan on a flat surface and remove the gasket. 11. Set the plastic guard cap so the two windows are facing sideways. The holes will be used later for the fill tube and for the temperature probe. Notice how large they are. 12. Use the rags to clean the pan and the magnets in the pan. Set the magnets back to their original location. Here is a nice clean pan and magnets. 13. Place the new gasket on the pan. I used petroleum jelly thin coat on a few places to hold it in place. 14. Fit ATF pan back into transmission, tighten the screws crosswise to 7.5 ft lbs. It may be convenient to use the cross arm as a resting place while you re-attach the pan. 15. Remove the fill plug with the 17 mm allen key. Replace the ring gasket with the new one. 16. Fill the pressure tank with ATF fluid, make sure the valve is closed. Pump the tank to provide the pressure to move the fluid. The clear hose will show the red fluid filling it, and also you will see it running later. 17. Insert the "hook" end of the copper tube into the fill hole, and hook it into one of the holes mentioned before. Insert the temperature probe into the other hole, make sure it is secured. 18. Open the valve and let the ATF fluid begin to flow. You will have to add more fluid to the tank and keep it pumped. When the fluid begins to escape through the hole. It will drip, so close the valve. 19. Start the car. Open the valve to let more fluid into the ATF pan. Keep it pumped. Look at the temperature display on your probe. The temperature should not exceed 45 C. It begins at room temperature, so you got a few minutes. 20. Move the selector to position "P" and let idle for a a few seconds. When the fluid begins to emerge again from the filler tube, close the filling valve. 21. The engine should still be idling, keep an eye on the temp probe. With the brake pedal on, change the transmission through each position, holding the position for 10 seconds. 22. Open fill valve again until ATF fluid escapes from the hole. Make sure the temperature is higher than 30 C, and should be around 40C by now. Remove temperature probe and filler tube. 23. Replace the filler plug and torque to 59 ft lbs. 24. Turn engine off, and take car out for a test. :drive: 25. You are done, check for leaks, clean the spills (cat litter), and enjoy some smooth shifting.
  12. 1 point
    Auto's en lichte commerciële voertuigen AFTERMARKET.ZF.COM Personenauto's This is the catalog of the transmission manufacturer, country and language can be changed if necessary.
  13. 1 point
  14. 1 point
    Likely a bad pump or leaking lines.
  15. 1 point
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  17. 1 point
    Nice stance. How thick are the rear spacers?
  18. 1 point
    You would be better served to run a voltage drop across each of the primary cables, none of them should drop more than 0.5V across their length after the connections are clean. Any greater voltage drop is a sign of corrosion inside the cable creating resistance and the voltage drop, which can only be corrected by replacing the cables.
  19. 1 point
    Hate to say it but that yellow sludge in the oil filler tube and cap is a classic sign of not running the engine long enough and hot enough to burn that stuff off. If you had the coolant system pressurized and leak tested, what makes you think you have a coolant leak? Surely something would have happened if the leak test failed. And one quart low on oil? When was the last oil change and how many miles on the oil change? It is not unusual to have to add a quart of oil every once in a while depending on mileage. As said, if you are smelling coolant in the cabin (but again, you had a pressure test done on the coolant system so ????) it could be your heater core. Are you losing any coolant?
  20. 1 point
  21. 1 point
    996 Ignition Switch replace (just the switch) with pictures First off - thanks to everyone who has been down this road before me for providing tips and suggestions and troubleshooting regarding this common problem. I have been dealing with a key that would stay all the way to the right upon starting meaning that the A/C, heated seats and some other items would not function. My solution had been to simply start the car and then just move the key back one notch to the left and everything worked fine. So if others have that issue, my original solution Author scb71 Category Carrera (996) - Common Fixes and Repairs Submitted 09/16/2009 01:31 PM Updated 03/13/2017 05:24 AM  
  22. 1 point
  23. 1 point
  24. 1 point
    It is normal to hear more air flow noises with aftermarket filters. You could always test by putting the OEM filters back in.
  25. 1 point
  26. 1 point
    Got an email about this and can't offer any mechanical advice but had a similar Durametric issue with the codes not matching Porsches codes. After numerous calls to Durametric, they acknowledged there was a bug in their 997.2 profile that transposed the digits. They were going to work on a fix so check to see if you have the most current rev. I never used it again so don't know firsthand. Good luck!
  27. 1 point
  28. 1 point
    So, when last we saw our hero, he was attempting to change out his old, yellowed and leaking expansion tank for a bright, clean new one. He removed the old expansion tank fairly easily after some yanking and twisting and turning. Installation of the new one, however, was destined to be a true test of character. He noticed that at first glance, the two tanks appeared similar yet, when compared side by side, there were slight differences, the primary one being a triangular section at the rear providing added capacity. He tucked all of the coolant and SAI hoses out of the way and commenced to attempt to put a square peg into an oblong hole. He undid the fuel rail feed/return lines and continued to push and twist and shove. He undid the motor mounts, lowered the engine as far as it would go, and continued the pushing, shoving and twisting. He removed the motor mounts altogether and attempted to wedge the engine sideways to obtain more space but, alas, there was no joy. Gentle readers, by this point the foul language had commenced, language so vulgar and cruel that decorum precludes its repetition on a family oriented forum. It is said, typically in hushed tones around a blazing campfire after several apertifs, that his head spun around 360 degrees on his shoulders, not unlike Linda Blair in "The Exorcist". Finally, he removed the upper black plastic bracket and, voila, the new tank fit where the old tank had been. Now our hero must deduce how to get the new tank past the bracket upon which it hangs in situs. In consideration of the amount of time, effort and foul language expended to this point, our hero was reduced to the most extreme of measures: surgery! He got out the dreaded cut off wheel and whacked off the first third of the black bracket, including the tabs, at an angle conducive to the tank's shape, and then there was joy and rejoicing, and candy!
  29. 1 point
    P0300 is a generic code for misfires. P0301-P0303 are misfires for cylinders 1, 2, and 3. Your other post is about hard starting. I would start by checking the fuel pressure at the fuel rails. There is a valve just for that purpose. Also, at the same time test fuel pressure bleed down. That will test your fuel pressure regulator. The Bank 1 misfires may be either electrical (coils/plugs) or fuel. When was the last time you ran some fuel injector treatment/Cleaner (like Techron) through the system? Also, actually remove the engine ground wire and clean up the connections from any corrosion/rust.
  30. 1 point
    Your part number is correct except for the M14 at the end, which tells me it is a Pelican number. Don't buy it from them, they a known for swapping out non OEM for the real thing. Get it from board sponsor Sunset Porsche.
  31. 1 point
    OK, let's start with the obvious: P0133 and P1275 both indicate that the O2 sensor ahead of the three way cat on bank 1 has aged out and needs replacing. I would get that done, clear all the codes and see if anything returns. Some of the other codes (P1126) indicate mixture issues and a possible vacuum leak, but with the O2 sensor out of wack may just be ghost codes.
  32. 1 point
    I had a similar problem recently. I had to replace the alarm module. About $150 and it is located on the middle of the firewall. I am 6’1” and have long arms and I still found it a pain to reach it. Several tutorials on the internet. Follow the steps in exact order it will help (ask me how I know this). The part is used on several cars over the years and is readily available. Do not buy a used one. They are known to fail with age. I hope this helps.
  33. 1 point
  34. 1 point
    I was lucky enough to get a hold of 2 944's for $300. 1985 turbo which is my project. And a 1987 which is my parts car. Sent from my SM-N920T using Tapatalk
  35. 1 point
    READ the Lost Radio Code FAQ... Try 6789
  36. 1 point
    Definitely recommend a low temp thermostat. If you never cleaned the radiators then you will be shocked and that could help a lot. Most importantly, don’t give up, it is probably something simple!
  37. 1 point
    I'm wondering if it has to do with the ECU (Electronic Control Unit) since you normally need to configure any changes to the instrument cluster back with the ECU on most cars. I remember looking at what it takes to replace an instrument cluster on my Audi, but since it needs to be secure so you can't mess with the mileage, you needed to configure any new dash with the ECU.
  38. 1 point
    Very happy with my 996. Original IMS and still running at 110k miles.
  39. 1 point
    I have an OBD II reader from Auto Zone for $100 that will cancel a water temp gauge failure, but will not cancel/erace an airbag code. My water temp gauge failure is due to the Porsche computer doesn't recognize my LS3 motor. I also have the Durametric program which does it all. More expensive and you need a PC laptop. I bought an 11" Lenovo laptop for $119 from Best Buys that will run the Durametric program. If you plan on keeping the Porsche as I assume you do, then I would consider purchasing the Durametric program. The point is if you go with a cheapie OBD reader you need to be sure what it will and will not do... Are there any considerations as to running the car without functioning CATS?
  40. 1 point
    You are correct in your assumption, but many dealers or equipped independents won't do it for liability reasons (you would be disabling a mandated safety system and can be held liable for injuries resulting from doing so).
  41. 1 point
    I searched for newer relevant threads, so apologies in advance if this should be elsewhere... I just finished replacing the 4-stalk assembly in my '02 996TT so I thought I'd post a few comments about my experience. Bought the Intermotor (Standard Motor Products) replacement from RockAuto; P/N: CBS2235 $201.79 plus tax/shipping. Seemed to be the cheapest I could find on-line; no guarantees that it's the lowest, YMMV, yadda, yadda. Interesting thing is, it turned out to be a GENUINE Porsche part!! Had a Porsche quality control sticker with the Porsche P/N: 99661321910EWC. It would appear that Intermotor supplies Porsche. Now, don't blame me if you order from RockAuto and it doesn't have the sticker!! I am just relating what I received:) Watched this Youtube video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hux78ZoPcAI WATCH the video, or something equivalent, before starting this project. You do NOT want to figure this out on your own! Time: Took me about 1.5 hours to disassemble and 2 hours reassemble=3.5 hours total. I worked very slowly and carefully having never done this before. I'd bet I could do this job completely in just over 1 hour next time (hope there isn't!!) Tools: LONG T30 torx to remove airbag. A short socket type T30 will NOT work; the torx head screws are recessed over an inch. Small standard blade to remove plugs covering airbag torx screw holes, airbag connector and turn signal wire harness connector. Small Phillips to remove the two screws holding the steering column cover in place. Medium Phillips to remove front 4 screws holding the front bezel and 2 screws holding the 'clock spring' in place. Tape for holding the 'clock spring' together while it's removed. 8mm socket or nutdriver for the turn signal holding clamp. Difficulties encountered: Engaging the torx tool into the recessed torx heads is a *****! Turn the wheel so the access hole is BELOW the instrument panel. The video shows the steering wheel in the straight ahead position when doing this....did NOT work for me! YMMV. Again you need a LONG torx tool or you can't reach the screw head. You can't use an extension as a socket is too big to fit in the hole. Seems obvious, but make sure you are turning the correct direction as you are FACING forward and the screws are are on the OPPOSITE side of the steering wheel. Mine were pretty tight so BE SURE which way you are turning. Disconnecting the two turn signal wire harness connectors. You need to 'pop' them out of the plastic retaining clips by carefully using a small screwdriver to 'open' the clips and ease them out. The smaller connector unplugs without trouble but the larger one has a 'dimple' on the plug half of the connector that engages in a hole on the shell half. Use a small screwdriver to VERY carefully pry up the connector shell so the the 'dimple' disengages while simultaneously pulling apart the connectors; three hands would help, but it's really not as hard as my description sounds:) The real point is that you can't just pull the larger connector apart like you can the smaller one. Don't just pull harder! The plastic part that holds the those wire harness connectors also holds part of the wiring harness as well as other connectors. It fits over the top of the steering column and, here's the important part, ENGAGES in SLOTS on the BOTTOM half of the steering column cover. When reassembling, start with the BOTTOM steering column cover and make sure its slots engage in the multiple tabs (four, IIRC) on the 'plastic part' described above. The right hand side only has a single tab to engage, but it's a bit tricky to line everything up and hold it in place while fitting the TOP half of the steering column cover. The four screws that hold the front bezel are self tapping into the new turn signal assembly. That is, the new assembly has holes but they are NOT threaded. You need to carefully use one of the screws to tap the holes. This is best done on the bench before installing into the car. Naturally, I did not notice before I already had everything back in place. It takes quite a bit of force and it's lucky I didn't slip with the screwdriver and damage something. Thread the holes BEFORE you reassemble! Despite the video, I waited until the steering column cover was screwed back together BEFORE putting the soft rubber 'plugs' that fit over the control stalks into place. Having them half in while trying to put the steering column together complicates the process. Much easier after that is done. While this isn't a difficult job, it is one that requires some patience and care (plenty of plastic parts to break if you try to force anything). You don't need engine rebuilding skill, but first timers should NOT make this their first automotive DIY effort :) At a little over $200, all in, I suspect I saved a BUNDLE over even an independent mechanic, let alone the stealership! Good luck!
  42. 1 point
    Some pictures for anyone that was interested............
  43. 1 point
    Yup, totally normal if it's an occasional occurrence. More than a little bit embarrassing if one of your neighbors sees you, but normal none the less :jump:
  44. 1 point
    Some words cannot possibly be used in the same sentence; "cheap rebuild" and "Porsche" is one example.........
  45. 1 point
    When you posted with this problem before, I suggested that you check to ensure that the time adjustment knob wasn't stuck IN. I can replicate your problem by manually pushing and holding the adjustment knob IN when I turn off the ignition and pull the key out of the switch. I only repeat this suggestion to ensure the knob isn't stuck IN because I didn't see, in your previous post, a response to the suggestion. BTW, either adjustment knob will, if pushed in, illuminate the digital readout lights in the instrument cluster....even if the key is still in your pocket. Bill
  46. 1 point
    I second the comments that Maurice has been a great help. I was able to diagnose my problem to a broken tip on one of the cables that caused the red ball joint to break thus warning me there was a serious problem before I completely ruined the clamshell. As it is, I think I may be able to repair it and at worst case I have found a replacement at a salvage yard. I may still need some help on where to position the V levers since I had to take those off to release the torque. Thanks Gary
  47. 1 point
    After no response here and some suggestions / online diagnoses from a few other Porsche boards, I'm a lot smarter. My third trip to the dealer today might have solved my problem, though. On my second dealer visit, the head mechanic squirted some magic Wurth lubricant on the front lower control arms and sway bar bushings, then tightened the drop links and sway bars. Our plan was to lube/tighten one thing at a time. Unfortunately, the squeak remained and continued to get worse over time. I talked to Steve Alarcon at Johnson's Alignment, and he suggested retorquing everything to factory spec, as he's seen some fasteners loosen over time causing a squeak. I went back to the dealer this afternoon for the third time planning to just have them retighten everything, but the mechanic wanted to take another test drive first. As we started driving through the canyons at 30 MPH, he finally heard the sound (chatter/squeak/rattle). A few more miles through the canyons after doing lots of circles at various intersections, we were finally able to reliably reproduce the squeak (he was calling it a rattle at this point). After driving back and forth numerous times at the intersection of Mulholland and Decker Canyon (me driving, him standing outside), we got the car positioned at the right angle such that he could bounce the front up and down to cause the squeak. After poking around in the wheel wells and under the hood, he closed the hood and claimed success. Driving back to the dealership, the squeak was just about gone. When we got back, he popped the hood, adjusted the hood latch, squirted some WD-40 in the latch, and said the squeak was gone. Sure enough, I haven't heard it since. The good, bad and moral of this experience: I've got a great working relationship with the service department at my dealer. Two test drives, probably 3 hours of the head mechanic's time and a couple squirts of various lubes cost me exactly $0 dollars. I asked them to charge me for their time, but they didn't feel they did anything worth charging me. Is this a great way to build loyalty and repeat business or what? I was almost convinced the problem was worn lower control arms based on numerous posts here and on other forums. I really want some of the GT-3 lower control arms now, but can't justify the cost now. The mechanic saw my notes on our test drive today and said he'd be happy to put them in, but I can't see spending a grand, give or take, when I didn't really have any suspension problem. Several morals to the story - building a good relationship with a dealer (or independent) is invaluable, and trying to diagnose squeaks and rattles over the internet is potentially wrong and expensive. If anyone is interested, my posts on other boards, including some good information on GT-3 lower control arms, can be found at: Boxster Spec.com: GT3 control arm bushings vs. stock, Same or different? Boxster Racing Board: GT3 control arms Pelican Parts Boxster & Cayman Forum: Boxster front squeak
  48. 1 point
    The finish on the U-shaped silver trim that surrounds the shifter boot on the 996 (1994 C4 I my case) can start to bubble and lift, as you can see from the pictures. While I had read that it would require a full replacement the boot assembly (over $250) as the trim is an integral part of the boot assembly, I decided to try to remove and repair it. Trim removal from shift boot assembly It is possible to separate the trim from the assembly. Six plastic studs are molded into the back side of the trim to hold it in place in the boot assembly. Starting at the open end of the “U”, I pushed from the backside and lower part of the trim. It took some time to work them free and separate it. Go slowly, be firm, but gentle. Removal of old trim finish The trim is a piece of U-shaped plastic covered in a foil-like silver finish. It is this finish that was bubbling. Starting where it had bubbled up, I used a sharp knife to peel the old foil off. This can be time consuming because the foil adheres quite well where it is not bubbled. Using a sharp blade (razor or x-acto) flush against the surface allows you to peel back the foil enough to use your thumb and forefinger and pull it off in small to medium-sized strips. I also found that if you do this at the edges of the tri, you could get larger edge to peel off. You want to be careful not to gauge the surface as this will likely show through when you paint it. I removed 100% of the foil from the visible portion of the pieces, all of the edges, but could not get about 15% to 20% of the foil on the inner (concave) portion of the trim piece to come off and did not think it was necessary to spend any more time. Refinishing Preparation - Very lightly sand the outer surface of the piece with 220 grit (I did not have any 360 or 400) to rough up the surface and smooth any knife marks. Wipe it down with a damp rag to remove the sanding dust and then wipe with a rag dabbed in a small amount of acetone to clean the surface. Prime with Dupli-Color grey primer – 3 light coats. Finishing – Finish with 3 coats of Dupli-Color VW Diamond Silver (P/N 8802029) and 2 coats of clear coat. (I took the trim to the store and VW Silver was the closest match). Reinstallation The trim piece simply snaps back into place. Conclusion The silver is a pretty close match (the picture is not representative). The new finish lacks, perhaps, a bit of metallic lustre, but is much better than what was there. Total time was about 1.5 hours, but it took about 8 hours with paint drying time.
  49. 1 point
    Hello all just thought I would close out this thread by reporting the resolution to my problem. Turns out there were multiple underlying causes to the symptoms I reported at the start: * a bad airlock; * cracked coil on cylinder two; and * an O2 sensor that was reporting incorrect readings (as reported by the Durametric package). The car solved number one itself with a massive burp of coolant after a particularly hard drive, giving me a scare in the process (initially thought the cylinder liner had gone - engine cut out, the engine compartment was soaked and a big cloud of water vapour out the back). Number two was solved as part of a 24,000 mile service. Number three (the O2 sensor) was solved by a fuel additive at the same time - I saw the outputs of the O2 sensors - the sensor ahead of the cat was continually reporting incorrect readings and oscillating back and forth - the fuel additive removed whatever buildup / something else and it's been fine since. The car is running well now - all of the torque and power is back again. Thanks for all the replies. Humphrey
  50. 1 point
    Hi All Below is some of what the shop manual has to say on the convertible top function. The actual trouble shooting is quite specialized because special tools are required. It sounds like you may have a faulty micro-switch I am having a problem with my top also, it is in the convertible top fully open (or down) position. When I actuate the top switch I get the click clack sound from the control module but no action. Recently I topped up the hyd fluid (as per Izzy's DIY)to correct an intermitant cab top function and the top worked perfect. I have two questions for those who have moved the top by manual method; If I put the top up by the emergency (manual) method, will the top need to be calibrated? Does anyone know if the durametric code reading software can read and clear top function codes? This is alittle long and no diagrams 911 Carrera (996) Convertible-top diagnosis General information Diagnosis The monitoring of signals by the convertibletop control module enables the system to perform reliable, precise diagnosis. Further, certain additional functions, such as e.g. test of drive links and of input signals can be activated using the Porsche System Tester 2 and their function checked. General infonnation Convertible-top control Each single step of the opening/closing process is only executed on condition that the preceding step was performed correctly. If a single step is not confirmed within a given time, the actuation of the drive motor is interrupted. The fault memory can be read out and erased with the Porsche System Tester 2. The diagnostic socket is located below the knee guard on the driver's side. At the beginning of a process, the limit switch or potentiometer values have a particular configuration, which is examined by the control module. The control module monitors itself and the connected components. The results are read out via the diagnostic interface. 625_96 61 01 Diagnosis/troubleshooting, convertible top Printed in Germany -II, 1998 99661Dl 61-D3Convertible-top diagnosis 911 Carrera (996) Overview of convertible-top components Rocker switch 1 2 Warning light Micro-switch, latching hook (windscreen frame) 3 Micro-switch, convertible-top latch (convertible-top side) 4 Potentiometer I convertible-top interrogation 5 6 Control module Micro-switch, convertible-top compartment lid (locked) 7 Potentiometer, convertible-top compartment lid interrogation 8 Micro-switch, left/right rear section flap up and down 9 The convertible top is actuated if: Terminal 15 is connected via ignition. The parking brake input is connected to ground (parking brake engaged), No speedometer signals greater than 5 km/h (3 mph) are present. Engine compartment lid is closed (input not at ground potential), 61 -D 7 61 01 Diagnosis/troubleshooting, convertible top Printed in Germany -11, 1998 99661Dl Fault memory Overview of possible faults 1 Switch position implausible 2 Button short to ground 3 Convertible-top pot. fault 4 CTCL pot. fault 5 Timeout error 6 Calibration necessary 7 Supply voltage 8 8 61 -D 12 6101 99661Dl Diagnosis/troubleshooting, convertible top Printed in GenT1any -II, 1998Convertible-top diagnosis 911 Carrera (996) Fault, Fault code Possible causes, elimination, notes Test point 1 Switch position implausible Fault code 01 This fault is only stored in the memory when an operation has taken place (button or comfort function with the key). 1. Check response of micro-switches of rear section flaps left and right. A defective micro-switch must be replaced. Refer to Servo No. 61 41 19 2. Check response of micro-switch in convertible-top latch. If the micro-switch is defective, replace the convertible-top latch. Test point 2 Button short to ground Fault code 02 1. Check pin 1 to pin 4 for continuity (bitmap on "close" switch), check button pin 2 to pin 4 for continuity (bitmap on "open" switch). 2. Measure resistance of wires 1 and 2 to one another with the ohmmeter. Display 1.8 -2.0 K .0. . 6101 99661D14 Diagnosis/troubleshooting, convertible top Printed in Germany -11, 1998 61 -D 14(;onvertible-top diagnosis 911 Carrera (996) Fault Fault code Possible causes, elimination, notes OJ 0 , -. Test point 3 Convertible-top pot. fault Fault code 03 This fault is only stored in the memory if the voltage at the input of the convertible-top potentiometer exceeds or falls below the operating range. 1. Switch ignition off and remove ignition key. With test adapter 9619, 9636 and pin template 9636, measure the resistance of the convertible-top potentiometer at row I, pins 12, 21 and 24 with the ohmmeter. If the display 00 .Q appears, the convertible-top potentiometer must be replaced. Refer to Servo No. 61 66 19 2. Switch on the ignition and measure at row 1, pins 12 and 21, with the voltmeter; nominal value (display) 0.4 -4.4 volts. If there is no voltage display, replace the control module. 3. Calibrate the convertible top Test point 4 CTCL pot. fault Fault code 04 This fault is only stored in the memory if the voltage at the input of the convertible-top compartment lid potentiometer exceeds or falls below the operating range. 1. Switch ignition off and remove ignition key. With test adapter 9619,9636 and pin template 9636, measure the resistance of the convertible-top compartment lid potentiometer at row I, pins I, 3 and 5 with the ohmmeter. If the display 00 .0. appears, the potentiometer and drive motor must be replaced. Refer to Servo No. 61 70 19 2. Switch on the ignition and measure at row 3, pins 1 and 3, with the voltmeter; nominal value (display) 0.5 -4.4 volts. If there is no voltage display, replace the control module. 3. Calibrate the convertible top 61 -D 15 61 01 Diagnosis/troubleshootin~~, convertible top Printed in Germany -11, 1998 99661D14Convertible-top diagnosis 911 Carrera (996) 8 Fault, Fault code Possible causes, elimination, notes Test point 5 Timeout error Fault code 05 This fault is only stored in the memory if an electric motor is actuated and does not reach the limit position within 6 seconds, or the potentiometers of the convertible top and CTCL do not show any change in voltage within 3 seconds. To check the micro-switch input signals, select the input signals which appear in the menu: Latch locked, Latch unlocked, Convertible top, Convertible-top compartment lid side flaps, Latching hook. Actuate the micro-switch manually (press it) to read the response in the bitmap positions of the tester display. -;~ 0 192_98 If the convertible top is between "Convertible top closed" and "Convertible top forward" and if the "Convertible top raised" input is connected to ground (contact for micro-switch of convertible-top latch does not lie against the top edge of the cowl panel and does not switch), examine the tension of the convertible-top covering using the left and right tension cables or, if necessary, loosen by 1 or 2 turns so that the contact lies against the top edge of the cowl panel and switches. Diagnosis/troubleshooting, convertible top Printed in Germany -11, 1998 6101 99661D14 61 -D 16911 Carrera (996) Convertible-top diagnosis Fault, Fault code Possible causes, elimination, notes 193_98 If the convertible top is in the forward position (diagram) on closing, check the response of the micro-switch -unlocked or not unlocked (small diagram) -in the convertible-top latch. If the micro-switch is defective, replace the convertible-top latch. 194_98 If the convertible top is in the rear position (diagram) on opening, check the response of the micro-switch -unlocked or not unlocked (small diagram) -in the convertible-top latch. If the micro-switch is defective, replace the convertible-top latch. 61 -D 17 61 01 Diagnosis/troubleshooting, convertible top Printed in Germany -II, 1998 99661D14Fault, Fault code Possible causes, elimination, notes 195_98 If the convertible top is in the centre front position (diagram) on closing, check the response of the micro-switch -not locked or locked (small diagram) -in the convertible-top latch. If the micro-switch is defective, replace the convertible-top latch. 8 196_98 If the convertible top is in the centre rear position (diagram) on opening, check the response of the micro-switch -not locked or locked (small diagram) -in the convertible-top latch. If the micro-switch is defective, replace the convertible-top latch. 61 -D 18 6101 99661D14 Diagnosis/troubleshooting, convertible top911 Carrera (996) Convertible-top diagnosis 197_98 If the convertible top is in the closed position (diagram) and the latching hook has been actuated, check the response of the convertible top (CTCl) micro-switch or adjust the Bowden cable of the central locking hook in such a way that the micro-switch switches. A defective micro-switch must be replaced. Refer to Servo No. 61 81 19 If the convertible top remains in a position not described here: 6. Switch ignition off and remove ignition key. With test adapter 9619,9636 and pin template 9636, measure the resistance of the convertible-top compartment lid potentiometer at row 3, pins I, 3 and 5 with the ohmmeter. If the display 00 .0. appears the potentiometer and drive motor must be replaced. Refer to Servo No. 61 7019 7. Switch ignition off and remove ignition key. With test adapter 9619, 9636 and pin template 9636, measure the resistance of the convertible-top potentiometer at row 1, pins 12, 21 and 24 with the ohmmeter. If the display 00 .Q appears, the convertible-top potentiometer must be replaced. Refer to Servo No. 61 66 19 61 01 Diagnosis/troubleshooting, convertible top Printed in Germany -11, 1998 99661D14 61 -D 19 Printed inConvertible-top diagnosis 911 Carrera (996) Test point 6 Calibration necessary Fault code 06 This fault is stored in the memory after 1000 actuations or if fault code 03, convertible-top pot. fault, or fault code 04, CTCL pot. fault, is entered. 1. Read out and delete actuation counter 2. 2. A newly installed control module has not been calibrated. 3. Proceed as described in test points 3 or 4. 4. Calibrate the convertible top Test point 7 Supply voltage Fault code 07 1. Check the battery or alternator. 2. Inspect the plug connection on the control module for corrosion, 8 8 6101 99661D14 Diagnosis/troubleshooting, convertible top Printed in Germany -II, 1998 61 -D 20 Germany -11, 1998
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