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Leaderboard

Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 06/13/2020 in all areas

  1. Some after photos... Definitely took more time cleaning than building this motor....
    3 points
  2. The headlights look fine to me.... people obsessing over headlights and BS like that are what makes the 996TT still one of the best cars out there, pound-for-pound, dollar-for-dollar
    3 points
  3. You can get a set of small "ez out" hex bits, one of which should fit tightly into the bolt head while rotating counter clockwise, which will loosen the stripped fastener. Amazon and others sell them (Amazon screw/bolt extractor set)
    3 points
  4. The factory default for the valves is the loud position, so if they are not hooked up, that is what you get. The valves only move to the "quiet" position when activated. The original reason for the valves was the incredibly restrictive Swiss noise laws for residential neighborhoods, so when the vehicle was operating a low speeds, it was quiet.
    2 points
  5. If you are even considering that, that's because you don't really like the car and should sell it. To me. For cheap.
    2 points
  6. Sometimes when there is a voltage spike to the system (like connecting a new battery) the programming can get "mixed up". When this happens the best thing to do is have a tech/shop with a PIWIS re-program the affected control module(s). I think it very rare to replace a DME if most everything but one or two items are not working.
    2 points
  7. As someone that spent a significant part of his career in the battery business, your use of "assuming the proportions are the same" is more than seriously flawed. The CCA test used by the BCI (Battery Council International, the international technical consortium that sets standards for battery ratings and testing procedures used by battery manufacturers world wide) is very similar to the one used by the SAE (Society of Automotive Engineers); which requires storing the finished and fully charged battery a 0F (-17.8 C) for a period of 24 hours, then load testing it to determine its CCA rating.
    2 points
  8. All of the larger cables are susceptible to this problem. The longer the cable, like to the starter, the worse the problem because their length exacerbates the resistance issue, leading to larger voltage drops. The only real trick to checking each one with either a multimeter or Power Probe unit (Power Probes actually have a specific setting for checking voltage drops, plus the Power Probe's long leads back to the battery make the testing process easier).
    2 points
  9. Porsche "Book Time" to replace both front wheel bearings is 4.7 hours times your shops hourly rate. Porsche "Book Times" are usually a high estimate - an experienced tech can usually do the job in much less. So let the shop quote time - as long as it is under the "Book Time" you are likely good.
    2 points
  10. Looks like the part that goes inside the oil filter canister - to hold the filter in place. Just clean it and then push it back in.
    2 points
  11. Updated parts list (your's is 15 years old). 997.1 rear strut.pdf
    2 points
  12. First of all, LN Engineering's IMS Solution is a LOT more than just an oil feed line; the bearing insert is a solid bearing (no moving parts) with annular oil passages just like the almighty Mezger turbo engines used, the IMS shaft is plugged to prevent oil accumulation and the balance problems associated by running the shaft full of oil, the replacement rear IMS flange is coated with a Diamond like coating for strength and longevity, and the oil feed is sourced at the oil filter to get clean, cool oil rather than where some others have sourced it. Perhaps one of the biggest advantages of the
    2 points
  13. I would first check the one you have to make sure it is not blocked from air flow by debris.
    2 points
  14. Welcome to RennTech , and your English is fine, and much better than our Greek! It probably caused by oil pressure bleeding down from the hydraulic tensioner's in the VarioCam system, which do not cost that much, either in Euros or $.
    2 points
  15. Be aware the most dealer will not share the service records for the vehicle because they legally belong to the previous owner(s), and the dealers are uninclined to track them down and get a legal release.
    2 points
  16. I agree with millerchris85. After all the work and money poured into my CTT it’s eh now and I’d have been better served tuning up my 996TT. If you really must have a sporty drive in a Cayenne then I suggest looking after a 958 GTS, Turbo or Turbo S and having someone tuned them to your liking. Be forewarned though you will wear through ancillaries (brakes, axles, tensioners, etc...) much faster depending on how much and how hard you drive
    2 points
  17. A cooler on the return line from the rack to the pump will probably help.
    2 points
  18. Charge pressure sender Manifold pressure sender
    2 points
  19. You should not have to - unless you hooked up the new battery backwards. If the polarity was hooked up correctly then you need to start looking for poor grounds. Starting with the battery cable then chassis grounds.
    2 points
  20. Your stated voltage measurment is weak. You should be testing the primary cables, the large ones running from the battery to the ground and starter, these are the ones that tend to develop internal corrosion. If you are unfamiliar with this test, do a search as this has been covered several times previously. We always load test both the alternator and battery when there is a problem. While this requires a load tester, it verifies that both are capable of delivering both the correct voltage and current (amps) as required.
    2 points
  21. Eureka! I suppose during the time you guys were typing, I was arriving at the same conclusion. I pulled the latch mechanism out and examined it up-close. The tension spring was out of a pocket on the latch and not providing any push when the latch was released. Hence, the hood could be pulled up out of 'battery' but would not pop up on its own. I disassembled the mechanism, lubed it, and re-inserted the spring into the latch. Put it back together and now all is well. Very simple to do. This is how I did it and you may find it useful. Do so at your own risk, yada yada yada. 1st, open
    2 points
  22. Ok here is the deal with removing these things..... 1. First you must remove Both AC Vents, and the Upper Center Console... The strips are held in from screws behind the dash, but reaching them is a waist of time! 2. The 2 small strips will pop out with some force, just take a flat head screwdriver and tap it in behind the strip. The screws will pop out from the back of the dash... The dash is a hard plastic material and the screw heads are small so they will come right through the dash.. 3. The long piece across the passanger side was fun... Tape the dash will several
    2 points
  23. The Tiptronic transmission has a special tool for fluid. First you have to purchase the tool (expensive) or make one (inexpensive). The tool is the V.A.G.1924, runs about $300. You need the following tools and parts to start: 1. ATF fill tool 2. 7 (US) Quarts of Pennzoil Multi-Vehicle ATF 3. Torque wrench for 60 ft lbs 4. Torque wrench for 7.5 ft lbs (90 in lbs) 5. 17 mm allen bit 6. 8 mm allen bit 7. Torx 27 bit 8. Temperature meter with probe. I used an Oregon Scientific with a probe that has a 10 ft cord. 9. Porsche part 986 397
    2 points
  24. Welcome to RennTech The problem happened because I don't see any mention of locking the cams, a critical step, to keep them from turning while releasing the hydraulic chain tensioners when doing the IMS, which will cause this exact problem. If the cams are not held in a locked position, valve spring pressure will cause them to try and rotate, and with the chain tensioners release, it usually caused the engine to jump time and pull the IMS shaft to one side. Once this happens, you are not going to get it back to center without a lot of effort. Most likely, you are in
    1 point
  25. Hi all, Hoping to provide some clarity on replacing the crankshaft position sensor on a 986 WITH Tiptronic transmission as I have not seen (or was unable to find) any good/clear pictures of the process to find the sensor. As I found out, it is hiding well behind the plug/receptacle for the Oxygen sensor on the right side of the vehicle. I read all kinds of guides pointing me to the correct general location, but they all pretty much said it was obvious and I knew exactly what I was looking for. I spent well over an hour searching because I could not see it, and found out that on a Tiptr
    1 point
  26. First of all, the 2000 - 2002 cars are well known for requiring long drive cycles before resetting the I/M Readiness monitors, having to drive 200 or more miles is common. Second, disconnecting the battery will take you back to zero; the monitors in question will have to start all over again if you do that.
    1 point
  27. Small rodent trapped in the HVAC? If PASM equipped air compressor on the way out?
    1 point
  28. Not even remotely correct in this world. But I would agree that Porsche's A40 spec is irrelevant as it is a marketing tool, not a lubricant specification. If you want real specs, consider products that meet or exceed ACEA A3/B3/B4, which are real, technically based and widely accepted performance standards.
    1 point
  29. If I am not mistaken CC control inputs would be stored in the DME. If yours is acting up you may have a DME with an internal short or coding issue. Hopefully you only have a bad switch as opposed to needing a new DME.
    1 point
  30. There is so much wrong with this approach I don't know where to begin. Agreed, a trip to the dealer MAY sort this out, but I would hold onto your wallet. The key, immobilzer and DME/ECU must all be programmed with the same codes only Porsche Stuttgart can provide, to a licensed Porsche dealer with PIWIs. What you have done is replace parts with other parts and expect them to work. It doesn't work like that. Key provides both the mechanical laser cut key blade that works the electro-mechanical parts of the door locks and key switch, BUT, also includes an passive RFID pill that must match
    1 point
  31. If you have done 90k km or multiples of the the cardon shaft bearing need replacing before it costs you a whole shaft. Easy to check, get a small wreaking bar and move the shaft up and down, if you see cracks in the rubber around the bearing then replace it now!
    1 point
  32. It turns out, the actual sensor itself isn't bad, one of the bushings of the ball and socket connector is completely gone.
    1 point
  33. On thing you are not considering is that the control module itself may be involved. If that is the case, you are going to need a sharp tech and access to the PIWIS system.
    1 point
  34. I also have a '99 with exact same conditions described. When I start the car after a couple weeks the sounds is there. If I use the car consecutive days the sound is much less or not there at all. From all the reading I have done, the IMS chain tensioner is a possible cause and not addressing it can increase wear on the tensioner paddle. I plan to replace this tensioner soon (pn 99610518059).
    1 point
  35. Porsche has updated that bulb carrier assembly and the updated part would depend on your original part number (for each side). They are about $60 US each.
    1 point
  36. Normally, if the light cannot be soldered or otherwise repaired, it is time for a new light.
    1 point
  37. P000C - DME DFI) control unit Possible fault causes - Dynamic driving style when oil level is near minimum (oil foaming) - Solenoid valve for hydraulic camshaft adjustment faulty (e.g. mechanical fault or dirt (oil circuit) ) - Engine oil pressure too low (e.g. oil thinning, oil thickening, wrong oil quality, oil pressure control or oil pump faulty) - Camshaft adjustment faulty - Intake camshaft stuck
    1 point
  38. 968 Sent from my SM-G955U1 using Tapatalk
    1 point
  39. Car is up running 100% and enjoyed 5x more. When I have some time I will do a write up with pics and DIY info too.
    1 point
  40. For what it's worth. I had similar symptoms with no codes. Disconnected both MAFS (it did then throw two codes) and the car ran fine. Cleaned both MAFS, reconnected and all was well. Cheers!
    1 point
  41. Change both pumps. Change the fuel filter. Change the fuel regulator.
    1 point
  42. Note: Part numbers sometimes change without notice. Always double check with your supplier that you have the latest part numbers. Images are for LHD cars - RHD cars will be on the opposite side. Parts you will need: 1 ea 996 571 219 03 Pollen Filter (Charcoal activated filter) Tools you will need: T25 Torx drive Remove T25 Torx screw that holds the panel cover in place (passenger side front trunk). Remove the panel cover. Remove the particle filter upwards and out of the housing guide. Insert a new particle filter into the housing guide.
    1 point
  43. Here's a pictures of the tool I used to hold cams in place. Approx 4.5" center to center. But I cut a slot in the steel and slid them in until they fit the cams and then welded in place. All done from inside car through engine access hole.
    1 point
  44. 1. It depends on what is a lot of money to you. Part number 986.563.551.00+colour code - under $8.00 2. I'd advise you adjust the Hardtop, as no matter how hard the Germans or Finns tried, all cars will have flexed and 'settled' differently. If you have no leaks past the window seals when the soft top is up, use this as your datum and don't touch the windows at all. a) Take off the plastic covers from each side of the hardtop and loosen the five alen bolts each side so you can just move the spinlocks in both planes. b ) Open both doors and fully lower the windows, get your assistant to o
    1 point
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