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Showing content with the highest reputation since 04/08/2019 in Posts

  1. 2 points
    Hi guys, I bought my 1999 Porsche 911 C4 Tiptronic back in January and I've been doing little projects on it ever since. I used to have a 2016 Dodge Challenger R/T Scat Pack with a 6.4 liter V8 that I traded in last summer, but I was missing the sports car feeling too much so decided to buy the Porsche. One of the things that stood out to me on the test drive was just how sluggish and unresponsive the Tiptronic gearbox felt compared to the one I had in the Dodge. Since the rest of the car was in very good condition (invoices for every oil change & repair going back to 2003, IMS bearing changed, etc.) I decided to buy it anyway, assuming I would get used to having to mash my foot into the carpet everytime I wanted the thing to move. Looking through this forum and others, I heard about the Sprint Booster and how it might help with this problem. For those of you that don't know what this is, it is a small plug that sits between the gas pedal and the cable harness running to the ECU and that changes the signal sent to the car from the position of the gas pedal. The factory set up makes it so that when you push the gas pedal, the revs rise very slowly for the first 50% of pedal travel. I think I read somewhere that halfway down, the pedal will only give you about 25% of the power. This means that in order to get the Tiptronic box to do a downward shift, you really REALLY have to mash the pedal and do it in a quick manner. In general it makes the whole car feel unresponsive and not at all like the free-revving, happy sports car I thought I was getting. The Sprint Booster module (which only works on cars with electronic throttle control or "e-gas" pedal) will take the gas pedal input and modulate it to reflect a more aggressive pedal action. The only thing that changes really is the voltage that is sent to the car's ECU, and how this is calculated in relationship to the position of the gas pedal. The unit comes with a little control gadget where you can set it to one of three basic settings - Factory (simple pass-through, nothing changes from stock), Sport (about a 30% more aggressive response), and Race (about 50% more aggressive). Within both Sport and Race you can then fine tune with an additional setting from 1-9 for each of the two categories. By default the device will put you in "5" or the middle ground. The device costs you about $300 and there is no discount to be had from any of your typical market places. I simply bought mine directly at the manufacturer's website. Since it was my birthday last week, I decided to treat myself and see if it might work. You have a 30-day money back guarantee and the install process is completely reversible, so I figured I'd give it a go. If it actually helps make my tiptronic feel peppy it will have been worth every penny. If not, I'll just return it. For the installation my first problem was figuring out if my particular car had an e-gas or electronic throttle system or not. Looking at the gas pedal I can see a cable running up the bulkhead so I wasn't feeling too optimistic. With the help of others on this forum, I learned that all 996's have e-gas except the 98-99 C2. I also popped the hood and looked at the throttle body itself. To be extra sure, I also asked the vendor to confirm that my particular model would work with the product. The manufacturer's website only shows MY 2000 and beyond as approved for installation, but they came back and confirmed that in fact the -99 C4 does have e-gas and so I could proceed with the purchase. 3-4 days later I get the box in the mail. It is a tiny little thing and doesn't appear to be much for the $300 I paid for it, but whatever. The installation manual shows pictures of the device being plugged into a port located somewhere on the gas pedal assembly itself. It is clearly the most common spot for most manufacturers to link the throttle to the ECU, but that's not the case in a Porsche 996. The gas pedal pulls on a cable and if you follow the cable up from the pedal, you'll see it attaching to a metal box conveniently located under the actual dashboard, and at an impossible angle for any human being to get to. In these cases I like to resort to child labor, so I bribed my 13-year old son to help me. By laying upside down in the driver's seat and sticking his head + one arm under the dashboard, he was able to get the device plugged in correctly in as little as 2 hours. I was basically reduced to cheer leader, and voice of reason to guide his efforts. We made use of my cell phone camera to try and figure out from the pictures how to disconnect the old plug and get the new Sprint Booster in place. The pictures attached to this post will show you how we figured it out: The entire installation process is done by touch and feel as you cannot see any of the components directly. I would recommend our approach of using a camera, talking about what we need to do next, and then use your fingers & imagination to figure out what it is that you are doing. We found it helpful to start with where the cable attaches to the box, then run your fingers over until you hit the little metal flange that sticks out with the white plastic butt underneath it. When you have your hand there you know that the plug itself is just above it. After the initial installation we immediately took the vehicle out for a ride. The gas pedal felt weird, and we had intermittent revving and a noticeable delay when pressing the pedal. I figured it was simply down to the device having to calibrate itself so we went for a ride. 20 minutes in we get a check engine light come on so we headed back to the garage. Ever the optimist, I simply disconnected the battery to reset the CEL and then went out for another drive. This second time it worked beautifully! The car felt like a different animal all together, and the gas response was crisp and immediate. Problem solved, or so I thought, and we called it a day. The second day I went for a drive and got not only a CEL but also the PSM and ABS warning lights. At this time I was ready to call it a day and send the device back since I don't want to have to deal with buggy electronics or stuff that I can't trust. Called up the son again to have him pull everything out and that's when he noticed that the OEM male connector at the end came lose by simply touching it. Turns out we hadn't been able to plug it in all the way until it latched onto the Sprint Booster module. I guess it is not manufactured to the same tight spec as the OEM stuff, and by a fraction of a millimeter the plug can't go in far enough to secure it with the latches. Using force and patience, we eventually managed to push it all the way in until we heard the very satisfying "click" of the plug latching onto the module. If I have to take it off again because it comes loose, I will certainly use a file to remove a bit of material on each latch and ensure that they lock into place without having to push too hard. Since this point I have driven the car 4-5 times and about 50 miles, driving it as I usually do and without holding back in any way. No CEL or other warning lights and the thing runs really well. Having tried the different settings, I have decided to leave it in Sport-5 which I think is a happy medium for a sporty feel without compromising the ability to drive smoothly when you want to. Race mode makes it more binary, and it is like mashing the pedal at every stop light. It might be fun on a track, but for everyday driving it is just too aggressive. In Sport-5 it'll pull away softly in 2nd gear like it did with the factory settings, but if you simply give the pedal a little shove it'll immediately downshift to 1st gear and take off with gusto. All in all I have to say that this was very much worth it. The car feels different - more sporty and responsive, just like you'd want a Porsche to feel like. I know this doesn't add any power to the engine but just by having the Tiptronic gearbox work more like a modern sports car it really changes everything. I'm now planning on driving it for the full 30-day money back period, and if I run into any issue I will post an update to this forum. Cheers, Magnus
  2. 2 points
    Welcome to RennTech On cabriolets, the number 2 relay panel is mounted to the rear of the roll over protection frame. You need to put the top in the "service" position to gain access to it.
  3. 2 points
    Front trunk, rear engine cover, doors, center console, interior sensor.
  4. 2 points
    I just installed a Pioneer AVH-2440NEX, Metra 99-9604b dash kit and Scosche LPPE15 wiring interface from Crutchfield in my 2005 Cayenne. Absolutely terrific sound. Existing amplifier and subwoofer work great. I highly recommend using their $25 ReadyHarness Service tp pre-wire everything. Like others in this forum, I needed to trim the dash plate to get a nice flush mount. The USB AUX adapter from Amazon fits perfectly in an unused dash hole. Total installation was was less than $700. $350 for the radio and about the same for the harnesses. The Axxess ASWC-1 steering wheel control adapter is not needed. A 3.5m plug on the adapter fits in the back of the radio and gives steering wheel volume and track control.
  5. 2 points
    Are you sure you don't have fuses mixed up? I'm currently on 1 pump in my CS with fuse 14 pulled and can hear the right side pump running/whinning when the car is on. I think Fuse #14 is for the driver side pump and #13 is the right pass side pump, but feel free to correct me If I'm wrong USA
  6. 2 points
    9) Remove the xenon ballast in the bi-xenon headlights (6 bolts) then disconect the harness, now remove the 5 pins (thin black, thin brown, red, yellow and uncovered ground wire) you only need two wires to turn on the xenon (Strong black and Strong brown) 10) Cut all the wires in the connector (bi-xenon headlight) NEAR to the connector and then use the plastic trick to remove it from the headlight. Take the Halogen connector and use this diagram: PIN 1 - Parking Light Lead (+) PIN 2 - High Beam Adjuster Supply PIN 3 - High Beam Adjuster Sensor PIN 4 - High Beam Adjuster Ground PIN 5 - EMPTY PIN 6 - Low Beam Lead (+) PIN 7 - High Beam Lead (+) PIN 8 - Additional High Beam Ground (-) PIN 9 - Turn Signal Lead (+) PIN 10 - Low Beam Ground/Parking light/Turn Signal (-) PIN 11 - EMPTY PIN 12 - EMPTY (tanks to toby http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...pic=1189&st=20) 11) Tap every wire as this diagram says, note that inside the headlights (Halogen / bi-xenon) the grounds wires are brown and leads black 12) if you want to, remove this resistor from the bi-xenon shuttle 13) Remember to tap the bi-xenon shuttle + Auxiliary high beam whit the pins PIN 7 - High Beam Lead (+) PIN 8 - Additional High Beam Ground (-) Corner light + xenon ballast whit PIN 6 - Low Beam Lead (+) PIN 10 - Low Beam Ground/Parking light/Turn Signal (-) 14) Check all the wires, solde and insulate all wires. 15 reinstall the xenon ballast, connectors and you are done!
  7. 2 points
    Ok here we go: vehicle: Porsche Cayenne S 2004 (Halogen Headlights - No Air Suspenssions - No Headlights washers) Factory halogens headlight part no. bi-xenon headlight part no. Before start i have to remove the orange look of the headlight... Done! Things you need to know... you DON`T need the bixenon wire harness (part no. 955 631 239 10) to make the bixenon headlights work. I re-wire the internal of the bi-xenon headlight. * The only diference are: 1) bi-xenon have an extra light called (cornering) i tap this to the xenon wires, every time the xenons turn on both cornerin lights goes on. ALSO this prevent the computer detect a problem whit the low bean xenon ballast. 2) I tap the bi-xenon shuttle whit the auxiliary high beam lights, if i don`t have the xenons on and i flash the high beams, only the auxiliary and the shuttle goes on, NOT the xenon. there is a resistor in the shuttle that you can remove (more details next...) * Start 1) Take out both headlights (Please see manual for more info) 2) Take the 3 covers out 3) Remove the Autoleveling motor (remove the 3 pin harness and two bolts) from the Halogen headlight 4) You have to take out the Pin conector, to do this insert a plastic (Use an old Credit card, cut it in two and then resize it to 3cm wide) insert the plastic at the top and bottom inside the housing make sure it reach the end and then pull out the connector (This is a pain in the a..) 5) Once the connector is out start to cut each terminar as long as you can, NOTE: don`t cut the 3 pin connector in this harness you will use this whit the autoleveling motor in the bi-xenon headlight. in the end you will have this: 6) Say bye bye to the halogen headlight... don`t be panic now... 7) Remove the 3 covers in the bi-xenon headlights 8) Now remove the Autoleving motor (remove the 5 pin harness and two bolts), then install the 3 pin Autoleveling motor Side by side (Left Halogen 3 pin, Right bi-xenon 5 pin)
  8. 1 point
  9. 1 point
  10. 1 point
    Clear Marker Lenses - Full proceedure with pictures All - Thought I would contribute to the board with an easy starter project that has been detailed before in text but no real picture instructions. Unfortunately, i could not upload the larger resolution images do to board constraints. NOTE - lens were ordered from bumperplugs.com > good communication and fast shipping. (Sorry for spelling errors ) Enjoy! Author roxboxxx Category Cayenne (9PA, 9PA1) - Accessories Submitted 10/08/2008 06:11 PM  
  11. 1 point
    Hate to say it but that yellow sludge in the oil filler tube and cap is a classic sign of not running the engine long enough and hot enough to burn that stuff off. If you had the coolant system pressurized and leak tested, what makes you think you have a coolant leak? Surely something would have happened if the leak test failed. And one quart low on oil? When was the last oil change and how many miles on the oil change? It is not unusual to have to add a quart of oil every once in a while depending on mileage. As said, if you are smelling coolant in the cabin (but again, you had a pressure test done on the coolant system so ????) it could be your heater core. Are you losing any coolant?
  12. 1 point
    Then set your speed limit alarm in your onboard computer.
  13. 1 point
    Yes Dennis, my car will do the same thing unless you put it in launch control. There is always a slight hesitation from a dead stop. Unfortunately the car is geared so tall that driving it like a 911 should be driven will put you in jail. But, never leave the car in default mode. As soon as you start up put in sport mode or drive it manually. The default mode is silliness to keep the mileage numbers down and runs the engine way below where it is happy. What I have learned with my TT S is that there is such a thing as a car being too powerful. In many ways my 2006 manual C4S is more fun to drive. I am considering going for a 992 GTS if it comes with a manual.
  14. 1 point
    Probably the battery vent tube. They often get forgotten about when batteries are changed.
  15. 1 point
    You will need to find a salvage yard for internal light parts as Porsche only sells the whole assembly.
  16. 1 point
    I am puzzled by your comment - this site has been here for 16.5 years. Or, were you thinking I should be dead by now? Try 9169
  17. 1 point
    996 Ignition Switch replace (just the switch) with pictures First off - thanks to everyone who has been down this road before me for providing tips and suggestions and troubleshooting regarding this common problem. I have been dealing with a key that would stay all the way to the right upon starting meaning that the A/C, heated seats and some other items would not function. My solution had been to simply start the car and then just move the key back one notch to the left and everything worked fine. So if others have that issue, my original solution Author scb71 Category Carrera (996) - Common Fixes and Repairs Submitted 09/16/2009 01:31 PM Updated 03/13/2017 05:24 AM  
  18. 1 point
    It is normal to hear more air flow noises with aftermarket filters. You could always test by putting the OEM filters back in.
  19. 1 point
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  25. 1 point
    Both are for getting into restricted spaces, and can be great time and knuckle savers, but there are other ways to skin this cat....
  26. 1 point
    The engine bay fan rarely if ever runs. There is a set of parameters. I'll try to find them and post.
  27. 1 point
  28. 1 point
    Item 16 is 3 nuts per side that the muffler (mounting bracket on the muffler) to the mounting bracket on the car. Item 19 is 2 bolts per side that hold the mounting bracket to the chassis. When I remove the mufflers I just remove the 3 (per side) nuts 16. I have never seen any damage on these.
  29. 1 point
    Probably not, the stalk functions as a momentary contact switch, if the mirror selector switch is on/off in two of the four positions, that would cause the OBC to continuously cycle in those position. You are also going to either purchase a premade aftermarket wiring harnesses for the cluster to function with either a dash switch or with the fourth stalk, or make up your own. Fabing your own is going to require finding specific size pin connectors to match the connectors already in the dash. VW used to carry them. It is much cleaner to use the fourth stalk, which can actually added without taking the column apart, or simply source the four stalk multifunctional switch and replace the three stalk. We have done several of these, but always replaced the multifunction switch with the four stalk version to retain the clean factory look to the conversion. If your dash displays the outside temp, the system is active.
  30. 1 point
    Disconnected the solenoid and never looked back! Put a cutoff rubber glove finger over the socket and plug if you’re worried about dirt and grime getting in there. Now enjoy the sound all the time.
  31. 1 point
    hi all ,, looking for some advice,, the airbag light fails to light up when key inserted or ignition switched on. its been stood for a few months without use but iv kept the battery optimised, it was plugged into a piwis last year to reactivate the heated seats and headlamp wash as the battery had been flat for a while, they did a code scan and the only fault was nearside rad fan innop, which iv replaced, so 7 months ago no srs fault codes ,, now the system check malfunction light does NOT come on at all, also were is the srs ecu located,, thanks
  32. 1 point
    Unless your fault code is exactly the same as the original poster you are likely just guessing. Best to get a Porsche fault code reader and see what your fault code(s) are.
  33. 1 point
  34. 1 point
    I would say this is entirely normal. On a level surface, there is a tendency for all cars with an automatic transmission to creep forward due to the friction of fluid in the torque converter. On an incline there is enough gravity pull backwards to overcome the fluid friction in the torque converter.
  35. 1 point
    Well in my case the new Steeper Motor came with a plastic cap that had an insert with splines. So, I mark the old Steeper motor and I aligned the new one to match exactly the same position where the old one was. I utilized the plastic cap and rotated until it look identical to the mark of the old one. I apply some grease and it went in like butter. I change the Steeper Motor and the module to the new serial number mention above. And of course I change my 5 year old battery (even thought voltage was ok.) Finally, my 4 wheel warning light is gone on my Porsche Cayenne 2005.
  36. 1 point
    I got a replacement fan from my dealer, and went ahead and replaced it. Problem solved, I can activate both fans in Durametric. Tips for other beginners like me who want to do this swap. 1. I removed the bumper and it is easier to access the setup. You must remove the front wheel well liner and the thin tubular cross brace. 2. It is easiest to remove the bracket supporting the radiator from below. The electric connection box on the inside/top of the bracket and the large radiator hoses connect with torx screws, while the others are hex (10 and 13mm). So you need torx sockets. 3. You don't need to disconnect the radiator vent hose. 4. You don't need to separate the AC condenser from the radiator, but it is easy to do, and allows some wiggle room to clean the debris out. I blew compressed air from the back and vacuumed from the front. Quite a bit of mess came out and the rads still don't look clean. Oh well. 5. The electric connector on the top of the fan assembly (air duct) is tricky. Seems like it should come apart by pulling outward (laterally), but in fact you should grab the inner half and pull it inward. The outer half is attached to the body of the air duct. Luckily I realized this before I broke something. Thanks for the hint that the fan might be a problem. That's why this forum is so great!
  37. 1 point
    Yes, replacing a fan does not require draining coolant. I doubt both fans would die at once - plus you say you can run them through Durametric. If you clear the codes and run the car (with AC on) which is the first fault code?
  38. 1 point
    The correct filter for an early 996 is the 986-307-403-00, which was also used in the Boxster.
  39. 1 point
    This is exactly were everyone that thinks they can do better themselves goes wrong. The LN ceramic hybrid bearings cannot be "sourced from hundreds of places for a variety of prices". The LN bearing is the final result of a lot of R&D, trying out various bearing materials until they fail, to identify the best selection of components for the final bearing. And as that design is produced exclusively for them, you are going to have a very difficult time replicating their results Good luck...…………..
  40. 1 point
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  43. 1 point
    I just completed a similar job. I used a ball joint separator to press the studs out. All 6 studs out in less than 10 minutes!
  44. 1 point
    Here's a good video showing how to do this:
  45. 1 point
    Yup, totally normal if it's an occasional occurrence. More than a little bit embarrassing if one of your neighbors sees you, but normal none the less :jump:
  46. 1 point
    How about item 6 in this image http://www.autoatlanta.com/porsche-parts/hardparts.php?dir=9PA-03-06&section=817-45
  47. 1 point
    That's not all to uncommon. Here are a couple of leads for you to try. (check venting) http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/43505-gas-filling-problem-solved/ Lamborghini fix for similar problem. I carry one under my gas cap and use it every 12-15 fill-ups: http://www.lamboweb.com/Repairs_Section/Gallardo_Repairs_Gas_Fill.htm There are also a couple of TSB's under Boxster worth looking at. (again venting) http://www.renntech.org/forums/files/getdownload/87-94boxster-fuel-tank-hose-modificationpdf/ You will need to be a contributing member to access TSB's on this site.
  48. 1 point
    I have had my '84 Carrerra for six years. It is a second owner car that I cherish. In January 09, we moved from SoCal to Omaha, NE. When the car was transported out here, I began having shifting/grinding problems with the 915 box. I checked several local "Porsche" shops before finding FLATSIX in Bloominton MN. Aaron Hatz is the owner/technician. I, of course, assumed the worst and agreed to have him rebuild the transmission. He drove down to Omaha with his enclosed trailer and took the car back to MN. A few days later, he called me and said he had found the problem. Turns out that several of the transmission mount bolts had fallen out. He replaced them and told me the transmission shifted fine but the clutch was aged. We went ahead with a Sachs Power Clutch Kit and the car works like a dream. I am a longtime car enthusiast and have dealt with thousands of shops and situations. I know when I am getting BS'd and because I'm now disabled, many operators try to talk over me, or past me. Aaron also did leakdown tests; compression tests than adjusted the valves and assured me that the heads were in good shape. Aaron's honesty and love for Porsches shined brighter than any experience I have ever had. I recommend Aaron to everyone. He is honest, knowledgeable and reasonable, not attributes you always find as a Porsche owner.
  49. 1 point
    A real check for a mechanical diff is to lift the rear, and rotate a wheel. If the other wheel rotates too, but in the opposite direction, then it has a mechanical locking diff. I added a Guards 60/40 LSD to my 986S racecar. There are certain turns at certain tracks with poor rear grip (Homestead Miami Speedway for example) where the LSD kicks in a lot. The Boxster race cars in the Grand Am Sports Car Challenge ST Class are also using this same diff. If anyone else is thinking of adding a diff for track use, the Grand Am guys tested both the 80/20 and the 60/40. The 80/20 caused excessive understeer. The 60/40 also makes it biased to understeer, but it can be dialed out with shocks, springs and sway bar settings. If anyone is thinking about a diff for spirited street driving, the torque biasing diffs are good.
  50. 1 point
    Install special order parts on top Bow; Rework Bow adjust fit of top, adjust frame to body fit. Part 987-561-927-00 F-kit felt strip. I have no problems with the top since this was done, no noise at all, and as it has been summer it has been up and down a lot of times. I should look to see exactly what it is they changed.
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