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Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 08/22/2019 in Posts

  1. 2 points
    Welcome to RennTech On cabriolets, the number 2 relay panel is mounted to the rear of the roll over protection frame. You need to put the top in the "service" position to gain access to it.
  2. 1 point
    Kessy module is under the dash just up above the accelerator pedal. I think the module next to the rear comfort control module is the level control module?
  3. 1 point
  4. 1 point
    P0300 is a generic code for misfires. P0301-P0303 are misfires for cylinders 1, 2, and 3. Your other post is about hard starting. I would start by checking the fuel pressure at the fuel rails. There is a valve just for that purpose. Also, at the same time test fuel pressure bleed down. That will test your fuel pressure regulator. The Bank 1 misfires may be either electrical (coils/plugs) or fuel. When was the last time you ran some fuel injector treatment/Cleaner (like Techron) through the system? Also, actually remove the engine ground wire and clean up the connections from any corrosion/rust.
  5. 1 point
    This thread will give more info. "Lazy" VarioCam, P1341 - Rennlist - Porsche Discussion Forums RENNLIST.COM 996 Forum - "Lazy" VarioCam, P1341 - UPDATE: IF YOU ARE SEEING SMALL BITS OF GREEN O-RING-ISH RUBBER IN...
  6. 1 point
    Both are for getting into restricted spaces, and can be great time and knuckle savers, but there are other ways to skin this cat....
  7. 1 point
    I buy all my single use or very low use tools from Harbor Freight.
  8. 1 point
    Any suitable rachet will work, as will any brand triple square.
  9. 1 point
  10. 1 point
  11. 1 point
    Your part number is correct except for the M14 at the end, which tells me it is a Pelican number. Don't buy it from them, they a known for swapping out non OEM for the real thing. Get it from board sponsor Sunset Porsche.
  12. 1 point
    OK, let's start with the obvious: P0133 and P1275 both indicate that the O2 sensor ahead of the three way cat on bank 1 has aged out and needs replacing. I would get that done, clear all the codes and see if anything returns. Some of the other codes (P1126) indicate mixture issues and a possible vacuum leak, but with the O2 sensor out of wack may just be ghost codes.
  13. 1 point
  14. 1 point
    Best use a Porsche scan tool and see what zone the alarm system thinks is open.
  15. 1 point
    I had a similar problem recently. I had to replace the alarm module. About $150 and it is located on the middle of the firewall. I am 6’1” and have long arms and I still found it a pain to reach it. Several tutorials on the internet. Follow the steps in exact order it will help (ask me how I know this). The part is used on several cars over the years and is readily available. Do not buy a used one. They are known to fail with age. I hope this helps.
  16. 1 point
    Check your crank position sensor; hard starting when warm is a classic sign of CPS problems.
  17. 1 point
  18. 1 point
    I haven't tried the Autel scan tool so not sure how accurate it is. It would be nice if you could recheck everything with a Durametric. Assuming the Autel readings are correct, your bank 1 cam deviation is not in spec and should be corrected. You may want to replace the bank 1 chain tensioner and retime bank 1. The bank 2 cam behavior sounds suspicious. Could be the variocam actuator problem (sticky). Would be nice to check with Durametric to confirm before digging in further.
  19. 1 point
    The engine bay fan rarely if ever runs. There is a set of parameters. I'll try to find them and post.
  20. 1 point
  21. 1 point
    I now have it in for diagnosis at a reputable Porsche shop.
  22. 1 point
  23. 1 point
    You need to look behind the water pump at the engine case wall.
  24. 1 point
    I believe the Gates pump has a metal impeller: I am concerned that the pump was replaced because of overheating, not because the pump had failed or was making noise. The question is why was it overheating? At this juncture, if the car was in my shop, I would pull the water pump and look at both the impeller and the wall of the engine case. If the case is tore up, you are chasing your tail trying to get the system to work. As for the reviews of the pump, some "complain" the impeller is composite, others complain it is metal, so it sounds like they could go either way. In any case, we ONLY use the factory water pumps, which are all composite impellers, and work well, unlike several aftermarket brands we have looked at. Unfortunately, many aftermarket bits for Porsches are really junk; water pumps, surge tanks, and AOS units are great examples of what not to buy. We have seen several fail right out of the box. Yes, they are a few bucks cheaper, but after some people have gone through two or three units in quick succession, that few bucks looks like a really bad deal...…..
  25. 1 point
  26. 1 point
    Product ID : 1056 327 173 01 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  27. 1 point
  28. 1 point
    Quick follow up in case others need this. It was the AOS. All fixed and back on the road.
  29. 1 point
    Best USA source for TPM sensors. Have an 08C2S. Prefer OEM but would appreciate comments if others have used aftermarket with positive results. Thanks in advance.
  30. 1 point
    For any student of Porsche Variocam diagnoses ,this was an interesting contribution to the Forum wisdom on the subject.Thanks for the time taken to document all this for us. Fortunately the O.P. was adept at both the electrical and mechanical tasks required for both diagnosis and repair. A superficial diagnosis would have indicated a defective solenoid from the Durametric Actual Values ,the 13 ohm Resistance test,the click test with a 9v battery Fortunately the P.O. also identified the fundamental cause of the problem to be a defective solder joint in the DME. He concluded that was causing an over-current to one solenoid. If he had simply replaced a defective (very expensive)solenoid , his repair success would not have lasted long. And how many times would the repair cycle have been repeated before the root cause was identified ? Opening the DME as part of Variocam Solenoid diagnosis seems like a good idea ! Carefully pry of the cover from the disconnected DME and smell it+ look for small burn areas.For those who do not have the skills to repair solder joints on the DME board, the only repair resource I have seen on the Forums is Specialized ECU Repair. They charge almost $700 for a replacement ECU .So those soldering skills were very valuable to the O.P. ! Unfortunately the Solenoid windings were beyond repair. Thanks Talkenrain and may your Variocam System be eternally perfect.
  31. 1 point
    Ok guys, now that this seems sorted out. In my case the problem was a faulty air change-over valve. Since I was at it I also changed the electric change-over valve. I thought I'd post an entire post-mortem on the whole incident. This way future reader can get all the info in one spot. In short, no horror stories but a lot learnt. A Huge thanks to Loren, 1999Porsche911 and tholyoak for helping me thru this. Guys, I'm going to be quoting you in the writeup below, hope you guys don't mind. If people want to read the original message and the whole thread, its below. Background ============= I got the P0410 ("Secondary Air Injection Malfunction") and P1411 ("Manufacturer Control Auxillary Emission Control") along with a Check Engine Light (CEL). What is means =============== During a cold start the catalytic convertors don't work very efficiently because they are cold. To compensate for this there is an air pump which adds air to the exhaust gases so the cat's behaviour can be somewhat compensated for. If you get this error that additional air isin't being mixed with the exhaust gases. No vehicular damage (CEL shouldn't be blinking!) but your emissions care higher during every cold start. What to do next (if you plan on fixing it yourself) ================================ 1) Observe the connection below 1 - Secondary air injection pump 2 - Air change-over valve 3 - Electric change-over valve 4 - Non-return valve 5 - To the cylinder heads 6 - Vacuum reservoir 7 - To the intake air system Basically 1 pumps the air thru 2->4->5 and reaches the exhaust gases. The computer controls when to start the blower and also when to connect the air link by controlling #3. When #3 is "ON", the vacuum line is connected to #2 which turns #2 "ON". Then #2 will connect the air blowing from one pipe thru to the other pipe. You should check every component in that chain starting from the easiest to check to the most difficult. 1. Check Air injection pump (#1, ~$430) ============================ - Do a cold start, the secondary air pump should run at least 30 sec (or more). - Sounds like a small vacuum cleaner/touch it to feelt it hum/pull off the larger hose to feel it blow air - If the pump "fails", here are the reasons : A.) "Check the electrical connections and fuse (40A fuse on the relay board next to the DME), and the relay (position 10 on the same board)." - Loren. B.) If the fuse seems ok its possible the pump is dead (you did test this with the car cold - cold start , right ?). TIP: Before buying a new pump ($$$) you could take it to a porsche dealership and have him quickly/freely verify this for you. If your air pump works, then you need to check #2 and #3. Both of these are deep inside the engine bay. You MUST remove the alternator before proceeding. Please read that thread on alternator removal - you will save several hours of frustration and sore fingers if you read before you work ! Once you remove the alternator (aka generator) you should see this ... its basically the same system shown in the black/white diagram above but this is how it looks in real life. NOTE-1 : Please note the existing connections on the tubes before you rip everything out. A camera/camera phone comes handy. NOTE-2: For the steps below, make sure you DON'T let the tubes/pipes slide away into the inaccessible areas of the engine bay - they are a HUGE pain to bring back if they slip away (unlikely-but you're warned!) NOTE-3: Finally, if you've opened the whole thing till here, I'd suggest you test both #2 and #3 to be sure you catch every failed part in that system. I simply replaced both with new parts even thought only #2 was bad in my case - #3 was just another $20 ! 2. Air change-over valve (~$80) ====================== - Note existing connections - Use nose pliers and slide the ring-clamps away from the valve onto the respective rubber hoses. - Take the little pipe off - Remove the valve piece out of the engine bay -> clean it with some alcohol wipe (don't drench it in any weird clearer/liquid - you're just sanitizing this for the next step). - Wash and clean your hands (Yes!) - Suck air out of the little pipe and quickly put your finger on it (to maintain its low pressure). If this is tough, ask your significant other (chances are they'll go "eeeeks"). - If you find you cannot maintain a low pressure on the little pipe (i.e. it feels 'open' when you suck out the air) then your valve is bad. - This low pressure should open the valve and you should be able to blow from one pipe (coming from the air blower) thru to the other. - If you cannot blow thru and are sure the low pressure is maintained, you again have a bad valve. 3. Check the Electric change-over valve (~$20) ================================= These are triggered off a 12 V supply. The valve has (+) and (-) markings for polarity of the electric connector. I quickly rigged up a 12 V supply by cascading a 9V battery with 2x 1.5 v batteries, some duct tape and some wiretags/wires. If your physics is rusty, this is the connection figure. (-A)---(-)[9 volts](+)--(-)[1.5volts](+)--(-)[1.5volts](+)--(B+) Between (-A) and (B+) you have 12 volts ! - make a note of existing connections - remove the valve from the engine bay - Connect the wires coming out from A and B to the electric change over valve's connection - If you've got a working valve, you will hear a click sound when the valve triggers. - Now, also blow from one pipe (after wiping it with an alcohol wipe!). - you will be able to blow thru/NOT blow thru as the valve opens/closes as you connect/disconnect the 12v supply wires. TIP: Check #2 also and if ONLY your electric valve(#3) is faulty, you could test the "FALSE HIT - valve from another system" valve similarly. If this "FALSE HIT..." valve works, you could swap it with #3, reassemble the car and drive ! The benefit ? The "FALSE HIT..." valve is accessible without _ANY_ disassembly and you can replace it some other day under 5 minutes when your replacement valve arrives. Also, no harm if the car is driven for the time being with that valve being faulty. Hope this helps ! Cheers! Sid -----<original post below> -------------------- Well, I got a CEL last night. So I stopped by Autozone and borrowed their OBD2 and got the following ... 1) P0410 : "Secondary Air Injection Malfunction" 2) P1411 : "Manufacturer Control. Auxillary Emission Control" My car = MY99 996 C2, North America. I saw some other posts on P0410 and today morning checked the air pump on the left side/driver side of the engine compartment near the tail lights. It seems to be working in that I could hear it buzz like a mini-vac. Not sure exactly part was making that sound, I also touched it to feel it vibrate (just like an electric motor should). I quickly glanced to see if the rubber hose on the pumps lower-back-right end was still connected and visually it looked ok. I'll have another closer look later (was behind schedule this morning!). Do you guys have any good pointers on what next I should do ? FYI, I have modified my stock exhausts with a regular bypass pipe, fabricated along the lines of the PSE version2. It sounds great and there hasn't been a change in the exhaust note since then till now/CEL coming on. I don't think its related but I thought I'd mention anything exhaust in this post. Thanks in advance guys ! Sid PS: I just got my customised plate .... SIDS 911 :D ... (actually SID5 911)
  32. 1 point
    Sorry my bad. You are correct 14 is left pump primary, 13 is right pump secondary.
  33. 1 point
    Are you sure you don't have fuses mixed up? I'm currently on 1 pump in my CS with fuse 14 pulled and can hear the right side pump running/whinning when the car is on. I think Fuse #14 is for the driver side pump and #13 is the right pass side pump, but feel free to correct me If I'm wrong USA
  34. 1 point
    Thank you, Loren. My code didn't work. I again followed the directions from FYI. Now I think I have have the correct info. 2000 Porsche boxster CPR 2081 4462 15000612 24/99 Again thank you for your support.
  35. 1 point
    Try and avoid the vehicle hunting between gears on an uphill climb, use the override to select a lower gear. A sharp depress of the gas pedal will change down and you can keep in that lower gear by maintaining the engine revs. It never selects first at a halt, always 2nd. To take off in first you have to select first. It will go well into the 70's if held in 2nd on a full throttle. At about 50 in 5th it's difficult to select 2nd with throttle alone it's best to use tip to get 2nd then floor it. The car will change up 3rd on auto. To get the full howling 0-100 stop the car. Change to 1st. get the car rolling slightly and floor it. You won't get wheel-spin and It gets to 100 very quickly. This is best done with the windows open. On a roundabout if applying too much throttle as a soon as the car senses out of rhythym speed between the back wheels it changes up.
  36. 1 point
    You're going to need a couple "special tools." Here's the guide: http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=5&ved=0CDcQFjAE&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.knclub.ru%2Ff%2Fattachments%2F16347d1282685305-korobka.pdf&ei=VsqrVIa-A4qjyQTR8IKgAw&usg=AFQjCNGYmGnvteF2LXeOAxlaYgiCrNbBww&sig2=W4Q2zCEAtoCJbnXAMQ2PKw&bvm=bv.82001339,d.aWw Cheers!
  37. 1 point
    Some words cannot possibly be used in the same sentence; "cheap rebuild" and "Porsche" is one example.........
  38. 1 point
    I have had my '84 Carrerra for six years. It is a second owner car that I cherish. In January 09, we moved from SoCal to Omaha, NE. When the car was transported out here, I began having shifting/grinding problems with the 915 box. I checked several local "Porsche" shops before finding FLATSIX in Bloominton MN. Aaron Hatz is the owner/technician. I, of course, assumed the worst and agreed to have him rebuild the transmission. He drove down to Omaha with his enclosed trailer and took the car back to MN. A few days later, he called me and said he had found the problem. Turns out that several of the transmission mount bolts had fallen out. He replaced them and told me the transmission shifted fine but the clutch was aged. We went ahead with a Sachs Power Clutch Kit and the car works like a dream. I am a longtime car enthusiast and have dealt with thousands of shops and situations. I know when I am getting BS'd and because I'm now disabled, many operators try to talk over me, or past me. Aaron also did leakdown tests; compression tests than adjusted the valves and assured me that the heads were in good shape. Aaron's honesty and love for Porsches shined brighter than any experience I have ever had. I recommend Aaron to everyone. He is honest, knowledgeable and reasonable, not attributes you always find as a Porsche owner.
  39. 1 point
    You may just want to invest in a jumper battery. You could also drive the car more but then the roads might be snowed in Chicago. Paul
  40. 1 point
    Have recently completed adjustments on clutch cable as well as on the foot pedal. Gears had improved, but suddenly yesterday, I had a great deal of difficulty in lining up 1st and 2nd gear. It was as though they weren't there. No problem finding 3rd / 4th and 5th and Reverse. Initially I thought that the shift coupling between the rear seats had slipped, but it was still tight. I followed the instructions on how to Improve Shifting off the Pelican Site (same as in my Bentley Manual), by loosening the clamp, rotating the coupler counter-clockwise looking to the rear of the car, and the shifter left in line with 1st & 2nd gear, so it is "pre-loaded?" I then tightened the clamp once again, but then 5th and Reverse wouldn't engage. After several attempts I've found a balance, but reverse and 5th remain difficult if I don't go through several other gears first. Could this be the bushings that are worn out also causing this, or perhaps I'm not adjusting it properly? Any ideas would be appreciated. Have also order a short-shifter and new bushing set just in case from Pelican.
  41. 1 point
    Ive just done this mod now, took me about 10 mins, i earthed mine to the center console bracket. works a treat and still drops the windows when you unlock the top cant fault it, dont think i would use it anything over crawling speed for fear of damage, but i think like some others, its a bit OTT for the hanndbrake and stopped settings
  42. 1 point
    My 1999 Boxster just turned 160,000 miles on Saturday while driving over the Continental Divide at the Eisenhower Tunnel/I-70 .... coming back from a bicycle tour near Aspen [see pic of custom bike rack I designed/built for the car; even tilts back for trunk access ... and still gets 34 MPG even in the mountains!!]; bought the car from the original owner 2 years ago with 152,000 on the odometer [complete with ALL repair/service receipts]~~~~~~ the engine was changed out under 'warranty' by Porsche at 98,000 miles AT NO COST...... added a set of SS Headers over the winter; did the conversion for OBComputer readout; turn signal mods; installed a short-shifter kit [off ebay]; installed an Optima battery [after the OEM / original battery died after not driving it for a month last winter...]... I also have a 1977 911 steel Slantnose conversion with 157,000 miles on it! engine was prof. rebuilt at 90k w/all correct mods/updates done;tranny rebuilt 5 yrs ago [owned now for 16 yrs since first 2 owners]..... BOTH running STONG!!! what a pair to have to drive daily here in COLORADO!!!
  43. 1 point
    I found my rattle, and I killed it around the rear cat, on the side where it has the 70ish degree bend, there are 2 pieces of steel welded around the bend, these pieces float around the pipe and are only welded to the canister, using a rotozip and a metal cutting wheel I cut through the welds and removed these pieces, the canister and pipe are still 100% intact the weld on the inside of the bend (the smaller weld) was broken, and this is what would rattle as it heated up, now there's no rattle at all and the car sounds very different... I forgot what it was supposed to sound like
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