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Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 10/14/2020 in Posts

  1. I've receive an answer from a PST2 sellers and specialist on Ebay, Mike, and here's his answer about this error message with the PST2.... "That error is because the URI hardware module does not have the porsche special firmware; the firmware needs to be updated. I would not worry about it, since you're better off testing resistance with a hand-held multimeter. Some users burned out or damaged the motherboards when they tried to test continuity on live circuits, and unlike the PIWIS testers, the PST2 does not have fuse protection."
    1 point
  2. No, but it very well could be the "speed gong" associated with the on board computer.
    1 point
  3. All of the larger cables are susceptible to this problem. The longer the cable, like to the starter, the worse the problem because their length exacerbates the resistance issue, leading to larger voltage drops. The only real trick to checking each one with either a multimeter or Power Probe unit (Power Probes actually have a specific setting for checking voltage drops, plus the Power Probe's long leads back to the battery make the testing process easier).
    1 point
  4. 👍Glad you got it sorted. This is exactly why we always suggest running voltage drop tests on the primary cables, they are a known issue with these cars and even Porsche released "new & improved" cables to try and address the issue.
    1 point
  5. This is a belated reply to document the resolution of my car's low voltage problem. Replacing the cable between the alternator and the starter entirely resolved the issue. As JFP correctly noted, apparently the cable I replaced had developed internal corrosion causing an increase in resistance. It's frustrating when a Porsche dealer tells you everything is okay when you know it isn't. Now having the requisite voltage flowing throughout the vehicle is a beautiful thing.
    1 point
  6. Welcome to RennTech If your DME (what you refer to as an ECU) actually got wet, most of the car would have been under water, so I would not be surprised things aren't working. I assume you are referring to the box under the seat, which is the alarm/immobilizer unit. If that is the case, remove the unit and rinse it out with isopropyl alcohol , which you can get at any grocery or pharmacy. Remove the small fuse on the unit and make sure it did not blow when it got wet. Use a hair dryer to dry out the unit, reassemble and you should be good to go.
    1 point
  7. Your stated voltage measurment is weak. You should be testing the primary cables, the large ones running from the battery to the ground and starter, these are the ones that tend to develop internal corrosion. If you are unfamiliar with this test, do a search as this has been covered several times previously. We always load test both the alternator and battery when there is a problem. While this requires a load tester, it verifies that both are capable of delivering both the correct voltage and current (amps) as required.
    1 point
  8. Only problem is that the cables corrode internally(where it cannot be seen) on these cars, leading to high resistance and lowered voltages. I would run a voltage drop test across both primary cables; if you see more then 0.5 V drop, you need cables. I would also load test both the battery and alternator, which may have a weak diode that would only show up under load.
    1 point
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