Jump to content

The RennTech.org community is Member supported!  Please consider an ANNUAL donation to help keep this site operating.
Click here to Donate

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

Leaderboard


Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 02/28/2019 in Posts

  1. 3 points
    Updated Mileage: 288,565. 2018 Round trips included NY to Seattle and NY to New Orleans. Still not driving as much as I'd like. #4 cylinder down to 75%. Trying to hold out to 300k before rebuild.
  2. 2 points
    Welcome to RennTech On cabriolets, the number 2 relay panel is mounted to the rear of the roll over protection frame. You need to put the top in the "service" position to gain access to it.
  3. 2 points
    Front trunk, rear engine cover, doors, center console, interior sensor.
  4. 2 points
    The horn beeps and lights flashing is the alarm system telling you there is a alarm system zone fault somewhere. Could be an open (or maybe in this case closed/locked when it should be open) zone. Zones are: drivers/passenger doors, trunk lid, engine lid, glass (targa) top, gas cap lid, center console lid, and if you have it the glove box door. There are also two interior sensors in the overhead that detect motion when the car is locked. I think getting to the battery and disconnecting is a good idea. However, you have a problem since the trunk is not opening. First thing to try is actually seeing if the trunk is already open. Put your fingers under the trunk lid and try pulling up. Second is to locate the emergency release cable under the passenger side headlight. Unfortunately you need to pop the headlight out to make this a simple exercise, and you can't do that without opening the trunk. So you have to pull the passenger wheel well liner and fish out the cable from behind. Hopefully your wheel lock socket is not in your trunk!
  5. 2 points
    I just installed a Pioneer AVH-2440NEX, Metra 99-9604b dash kit and Scosche LPPE15 wiring interface from Crutchfield in my 2005 Cayenne. Absolutely terrific sound. Existing amplifier and subwoofer work great. I highly recommend using their $25 ReadyHarness Service tp pre-wire everything. Like others in this forum, I needed to trim the dash plate to get a nice flush mount. The USB AUX adapter from Amazon fits perfectly in an unused dash hole. Total installation was was less than $700. $350 for the radio and about the same for the harnesses. The Axxess ASWC-1 steering wheel control adapter is not needed. A 3.5m plug on the adapter fits in the back of the radio and gives steering wheel volume and track control.
  6. 2 points
    Are you sure you don't have fuses mixed up? I'm currently on 1 pump in my CS with fuse 14 pulled and can hear the right side pump running/whinning when the car is on. I think Fuse #14 is for the driver side pump and #13 is the right pass side pump, but feel free to correct me If I'm wrong USA
  7. 1 point
  8. 1 point
  9. 1 point
  10. 1 point
    I agree with Pierre; a large expense with little benefit.
  11. 1 point
    Hi All, Gona upgrade to a short shifter 99 Boxster. The new shifter has the bend in the shifter leaning towards the driver (L) side. In some pix and videos it looks like it should be leaning to the R side. Which is it.... or is it a matter of preference? Read some threads where you just un bolt it and turn it around. Thanks V
  12. 1 point
    K44 - Geschwindigkeitsregelanlage = cruise control system. There will undoubtedly be several items that are directly/indirectly related to cruise control, such as speed signal, brake signal, etc.
  13. 1 point
    996 Ignition Switch replace (just the switch) with pictures First off - thanks to everyone who has been down this road before me for providing tips and suggestions and troubleshooting regarding this common problem. I have been dealing with a key that would stay all the way to the right upon starting meaning that the A/C, heated seats and some other items would not function. My solution had been to simply start the car and then just move the key back one notch to the left and everything worked fine. So if others have that issue, my original solution Author scb71 Category Carrera (996) - Common Fixes and Repairs Submitted 09/16/2009 01:31 PM Updated 03/13/2017 05:24 AM  
  14. 1 point
  15. 1 point
    Guys, enough with the weird work around Magiver repairs; if you cannot drill the bolt and remove it, you need to drill out the insert and install a new one, but this time put some antiseize on the fasteners and this will never happen again.
  16. 1 point
  17. 1 point
    Thomas, the pump literally is used to make sure the hot coolant flows back and circulates properly to the heater matrix(s)to keep passengers warm, it also send it back to the rear heater matrix (if fitted). Some cayenne have a.c. evaporator and heater matrix in the boot as well as in the lower dash. "Four zone climate control" option I believe it was called. The "rest" button just runs this pump when the engine is off and the passengers are asking for warm air still from the interior fan hence hot coolant is required to circulate by electric pump. Hello from the UK my friend.
  18. 1 point
    P0300 is a generic code for misfires. P0301-P0303 are misfires for cylinders 1, 2, and 3. Your other post is about hard starting. I would start by checking the fuel pressure at the fuel rails. There is a valve just for that purpose. Also, at the same time test fuel pressure bleed down. That will test your fuel pressure regulator. The Bank 1 misfires may be either electrical (coils/plugs) or fuel. When was the last time you ran some fuel injector treatment/Cleaner (like Techron) through the system? Also, actually remove the engine ground wire and clean up the connections from any corrosion/rust.
  19. 1 point
  20. 1 point
    I have yet to lick my car and the battery is just fine. 😂
  21. 1 point
    No, no one seems to have an answer.
  22. 1 point
    There is a clear plastic line that goes from the battery vent to the underside of the car. Not sure that I remember any others.
  23. 1 point
    Well in my case the new Steeper Motor came with a plastic cap that had an insert with splines. So, I mark the old Steeper motor and I aligned the new one to match exactly the same position where the old one was. I utilized the plastic cap and rotated until it look identical to the mark of the old one. I apply some grease and it went in like butter. I change the Steeper Motor and the module to the new serial number mention above. And of course I change my 5 year old battery (even thought voltage was ok.) Finally, my 4 wheel warning light is gone on my Porsche Cayenne 2005.
  24. 1 point
    and fuel filler door depending on year....glove box door
  25. 1 point
    In total desperation, you may have to pry the alternator out. Rotate it as far as possible clockwise, remove the long bolt and pulley, and try to jam a thick screwdriver or small pry bar underneath the alternator rear mount arm. You might have to be creative with a block or piece of wood to get the leverage right. Be very careful of the oil filler tube. It can crack easily.
  26. 1 point
    Fuse 16 in the left fuse support. In many cases, it is not the fuse but a bad horn (or horns). The factory horns are not very good.
  27. 1 point
    In many states these upgrades are illegal due to excessive glare as the headlight's do not have the correct projectors to create the proper beam cut off. Absolute ticket bait as well.
  28. 1 point
    What assurance do you have that the car was not damaged and wrapped to hide a bad repair job? A wrap is not as permanent as factory paint. You will have to deal with it’s deterioration at some point. If the paint flakes off then it’s not factory. IMO the wrap would have to come off and paint inspected as a pre-condition. Otherwise run as fast as you can. Johan
  29. 1 point
    Get the CEL code again and post. Before you proceed, either DIY or shop, we can help you narrow this down. I certainly would want to know specifically and exactly that this is the problem before chasing ghosts and replacing parts. Also, what year and model? Other recent maintenance or problems? There are other valves and components in the evap system to consider. See here Carbon Canister WWW.AUTOATLANTA.COM
  30. 1 point
    Again, I said: "No, as long as you follow the rest of LN Engineering's instructions to the letter. "; and stated that "my personal preference was to remove them all". Your choice is yours.
  31. 1 point
    I am not 100% certain, but if you take off the plastic trim cover covering the hood latch, you should be able to see everything. You pull the interior cover back a bit to reach the bolts that hold the hood latch to the frame. It is all pretty straight forward from there.
  32. 1 point
    The hoses 1 and 3 are the supply and return lines for the front radiators. They are located on the back side of the engine near the transmission. They connect to the metal supply and return lines that run up the center transmission tunnel and go to the front radiators. You probably have to remove the underbelly pans to see them. Those hoses attach to #9 and #10 here M96.01/02/03 Water Cooling 2 M96.04 WWW.AUTOATLANTA.COM
  33. 1 point
    I have had this show up my both my CGTS and GT4. Much ado about nothing as far as I can tell. I have drained oil off by loosening the filter, or just let it go. Done several track weekends with the alert notice on. Problem is not simply overfilling, but under-draining by the car, imho. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  34. 1 point
  35. 1 point
    i would ensure emergency blinkers are on and engine is off when you clear faults in all modules.
  36. 1 point
    Hi yes, Well after 18months and a lot of miles I can share a few thoughts. Firstly. I've done a lot of offroading in the car. As a result I've picked up or had cuts / splits on 2 of the tyres. This caused me to replace all 4 tyres recently as I was worried about impact during long trips. So I put 4 more BFGs KO2s back one. Immediately after that I 've 1 tyre delaminate following 90mins at 160kph. Not impressed. Tyre has been replaced under warranty, but not sure yet whether the tyre or batch is an issue. Whilst I've never had a BFG actually puncture, I have to say, they are expensive, and they are heavy. Also the on road performance is pretty average, clearly its an AT tyre so you should be prepared. Stopping distances are way longer than street tyres. I"m about to do a 2000km trip, including 220km desert crossing, so lots off road, which will bed the new tyres in one way or the other. But I've lost a bit of faith with BFGs. I'm now 50:50 on whether they are worth the money and the weight penalty. That said, there has been pretty much zero rubbing, and I've even managed to drive the car with the air suspension collapsed. Not far, but it was OK. This was one of the criteria for me, due to the sometimes remote locations we go to. Hope that helps and is a balanced view.
  37. 1 point
    Well... I jacked-up the car to inspect and as I was jacking I saw two drops of oil. Thinking to myself maybe the bracket holding the solenoid broke (I read that somewhere on one of the forums), something simple. But when I got under the vehicle there was quite a bit of oil on the front of the cam cover (nearest the passenger compartment). Closer inspection I discovered the cam cover is cracked near the top probably a couple inches long. I have a major issue (possibly broken cam). Now I need to decide how to replace the motor... Rebuild, salvage, new, Jake Raby. Wish me luck. My wife asked, "how could this happen? You take car of your cars and don't abuse them." My reply... "things break".
  38. 1 point
    I searched for newer relevant threads, so apologies in advance if this should be elsewhere... I just finished replacing the 4-stalk assembly in my '02 996TT so I thought I'd post a few comments about my experience. Bought the Intermotor (Standard Motor Products) replacement from RockAuto; P/N: CBS2235 $201.79 plus tax/shipping. Seemed to be the cheapest I could find on-line; no guarantees that it's the lowest, YMMV, yadda, yadda. Interesting thing is, it turned out to be a GENUINE Porsche part!! Had a Porsche quality control sticker with the Porsche P/N: 99661321910EWC. It would appear that Intermotor supplies Porsche. Now, don't blame me if you order from RockAuto and it doesn't have the sticker!! I am just relating what I received:) Watched this Youtube video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hux78ZoPcAI WATCH the video, or something equivalent, before starting this project. You do NOT want to figure this out on your own! Time: Took me about 1.5 hours to disassemble and 2 hours reassemble=3.5 hours total. I worked very slowly and carefully having never done this before. I'd bet I could do this job completely in just over 1 hour next time (hope there isn't!!) Tools: LONG T30 torx to remove airbag. A short socket type T30 will NOT work; the torx head screws are recessed over an inch. Small standard blade to remove plugs covering airbag torx screw holes, airbag connector and turn signal wire harness connector. Small Phillips to remove the two screws holding the steering column cover in place. Medium Phillips to remove front 4 screws holding the front bezel and 2 screws holding the 'clock spring' in place. Tape for holding the 'clock spring' together while it's removed. 8mm socket or nutdriver for the turn signal holding clamp. Difficulties encountered: Engaging the torx tool into the recessed torx heads is a *****! Turn the wheel so the access hole is BELOW the instrument panel. The video shows the steering wheel in the straight ahead position when doing this....did NOT work for me! YMMV. Again you need a LONG torx tool or you can't reach the screw head. You can't use an extension as a socket is too big to fit in the hole. Seems obvious, but make sure you are turning the correct direction as you are FACING forward and the screws are are on the OPPOSITE side of the steering wheel. Mine were pretty tight so BE SURE which way you are turning. Disconnecting the two turn signal wire harness connectors. You need to 'pop' them out of the plastic retaining clips by carefully using a small screwdriver to 'open' the clips and ease them out. The smaller connector unplugs without trouble but the larger one has a 'dimple' on the plug half of the connector that engages in a hole on the shell half. Use a small screwdriver to VERY carefully pry up the connector shell so the the 'dimple' disengages while simultaneously pulling apart the connectors; three hands would help, but it's really not as hard as my description sounds:) The real point is that you can't just pull the larger connector apart like you can the smaller one. Don't just pull harder! The plastic part that holds the those wire harness connectors also holds part of the wiring harness as well as other connectors. It fits over the top of the steering column and, here's the important part, ENGAGES in SLOTS on the BOTTOM half of the steering column cover. When reassembling, start with the BOTTOM steering column cover and make sure its slots engage in the multiple tabs (four, IIRC) on the 'plastic part' described above. The right hand side only has a single tab to engage, but it's a bit tricky to line everything up and hold it in place while fitting the TOP half of the steering column cover. The four screws that hold the front bezel are self tapping into the new turn signal assembly. That is, the new assembly has holes but they are NOT threaded. You need to carefully use one of the screws to tap the holes. This is best done on the bench before installing into the car. Naturally, I did not notice before I already had everything back in place. It takes quite a bit of force and it's lucky I didn't slip with the screwdriver and damage something. Thread the holes BEFORE you reassemble! Despite the video, I waited until the steering column cover was screwed back together BEFORE putting the soft rubber 'plugs' that fit over the control stalks into place. Having them half in while trying to put the steering column together complicates the process. Much easier after that is done. While this isn't a difficult job, it is one that requires some patience and care (plenty of plastic parts to break if you try to force anything). You don't need engine rebuilding skill, but first timers should NOT make this their first automotive DIY effort :) At a little over $200, all in, I suspect I saved a BUNDLE over even an independent mechanic, let alone the stealership! Good luck!
  39. 1 point
    This was done on a 996 but the 986 Boxster is exactly the same... Replacing the Gas/Fuel Door Actuator
  40. 1 point
    I had what I thought was a simular problem and I noticed that cleaning the radiators kept it closer to the "8" than before. They are in a bad spot as far as collecting leaves and debris between them and the condensers.
  41. 1 point
    How about item 6 in this image http://www.autoatlanta.com/porsche-parts/hardparts.php?dir=9PA-03-06&section=817-45
  42. 1 point
    As an FYI for others... 16mm bolt on the back of the tensioner pulley can be tighten as you torque the 24mm socket of the tensioner pulley to solve this issue. I used a stubby 16mm open box wrench to accomplish this by wedging it against the tensioner arm. Apply Just enough torque to get it from freely turning on it's own.
  43. 1 point
    I have had my '84 Carrerra for six years. It is a second owner car that I cherish. In January 09, we moved from SoCal to Omaha, NE. When the car was transported out here, I began having shifting/grinding problems with the 915 box. I checked several local "Porsche" shops before finding FLATSIX in Bloominton MN. Aaron Hatz is the owner/technician. I, of course, assumed the worst and agreed to have him rebuild the transmission. He drove down to Omaha with his enclosed trailer and took the car back to MN. A few days later, he called me and said he had found the problem. Turns out that several of the transmission mount bolts had fallen out. He replaced them and told me the transmission shifted fine but the clutch was aged. We went ahead with a Sachs Power Clutch Kit and the car works like a dream. I am a longtime car enthusiast and have dealt with thousands of shops and situations. I know when I am getting BS'd and because I'm now disabled, many operators try to talk over me, or past me. Aaron also did leakdown tests; compression tests than adjusted the valves and assured me that the heads were in good shape. Aaron's honesty and love for Porsches shined brighter than any experience I have ever had. I recommend Aaron to everyone. He is honest, knowledgeable and reasonable, not attributes you always find as a Porsche owner.
  44. 1 point
    You may just want to invest in a jumper battery. You could also drive the car more but then the roads might be snowed in Chicago. Paul
  45. 1 point
    I found out that it was the door latch and not the micro-switch that needs to be replaced. The door latch will wear out from use. Here is the link to replacing a 997 microswitch and the next link continues on to the door latch. http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?/tutorials/article/7-door-micro-switch/ http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?/topic/32134-door-latch/ Paul
  46. 1 point
    Thanks for the replies. When I bought the centre piece, it definitely made a big difference. I had my doubts about the mesh pieces. They are meshes for starters, and also they fit just behind the seat which doesn't make much sense. I will probably save my money on this one then.
  47. 1 point
    IMHO it would be really useful if some of you guys could reply with which code Loren suggests actually works. It might help make more accurate predictions. Just my 2 cents worth.
  48. 1 point
    The cooler for a Boxster tip is on the transmission. On a 996 tip it is in the front. Your profile says you have a Boxster S. So you would use a 996 tip cover because you have a third coolant radiator in the front.
  49. 1 point
    Possible cause of fault: • Pin 86 S is not detected when terminal 15 is switched on • Fuse E1 faulty • Short circuit to ground/open circuit in wiring between the alarm system control module and the ignition lock • Ignition lock faulty
  50. 1 point
    '99 996 , 53500miles I had my check engine light on today, unexpectedly. It remains on while driving, I checked user manual, it not talk too much of it. Where I should start? Thanks,
  • RennTech.org Store at Amazon.com



  • Newsletter

    Want to keep up to date with all our latest news and information?
    Sign Up
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.