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Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 12/17/2020 in all areas

  1. Sometimes when there is a voltage spike to the system (like connecting a new battery) the programming can get "mixed up". When this happens the best thing to do is have a tech/shop with a PIWIS re-program the affected control module(s). I think it very rare to replace a DME if most everything but one or two items are not working.
    2 points
  2. Then using the basic rule to always go back to the last thing you worked on, the intake plenum.
    1 point
  3. I would check to make sure you reconnected the coil packs, both completely plugging them in, and not having crossed any.
    1 point
  4. Yes, the control is inside the PDK. Likely best it be checked with a PIWIS.
    1 point
  5. P1990 PDK Software monitoring A (or B) of signal processing unit Possible fault causes: - PDK control unit faulty Fault effects: - CAN alive counter freeze - Engine speed limitation - Transmission limphome indication in instrument cluster control unit C150 DME control module, communication Possible fault causes: - No power supply for DME control module - DME control module incorrectly coded - Short circuit or open circuit in the CAN drive - DME control module faulty (in most cases the cause is not the DME control module but incorrect coding!)
    1 point
  6. If I am not mistaken CC control inputs would be stored in the DME. If yours is acting up you may have a DME with an internal short or coding issue. Hopefully you only have a bad switch as opposed to needing a new DME.
    1 point
  7. Be sure the "limit activated" square is not selected....
    1 point
  8. Some of the early cars had a real problem getting the IM Readiness test "not ready" status to change without resorting to the PIWIS, even after all the necessary repairs have been completed. I have personally seen cars go more that 200 miles of daily drive cycles before the system switched to "ready", but I have never seen or heard for one going 2,400 miles. I would have to agree with Loren on this one; something is still not right. If the O2 sensor ahead of the cats goes to a straight line zero, or near zero voltage while the SAI pump is running, the system is functional.
    1 point
  9. That car is utterly gorgeous, congratulations! I owned one in the same colour for two years in London. Get the bolts that connect all of the exhaust system checked for rust. It's very expensive to fix later on and always happens. I would change them all every 3 or 4 years, consider better non OEM ones if you're not worried about maintaining the Porsche warranty. Also replacing the seals between the front and back side windows made mine feel like a new car as the glass didn't wobble. A cheap but satisfying fix. Made the car feel like new again. Enjoy! Sent from my SM-N976B using Tapatalk
    1 point
  10. Update! So I decided to start by check the driver's side, and boy am I glad I did (since the pressured line on the passenger side is such a mess to remove)-- it seems that when getting the filter seated last night, I somehow managed to have one of the electrical connectors going to the filter (the black and red cables) came unplugged!! 🙄🙄 She's alive!! 🙂
    1 point
  11. Did you use the procedure in the Lost Radio Code FAQ to get the correct serial number (in the display)? If not, please do so and re-submit the correct serial number.
    1 point
  12. Jake's company is Flat Six Innovations, and has done all of the development work for M96/97 component's for LN Engineering , which is owned by Charles Navarro. Jake does complete engine rebuilds, from mild to wild, and only sells educational materials such as the DVD mentioned, as well as the only existing complete engine torque spec manuals in print, but Flat Six no longer sells any hardware, only complete engines. LN manufactures and sells all the hardware (Nickies cylinder liners, IMS retrofits, piston sets, etc.), and also sells Jakes torque manuals which are excellent reference sources.
    1 point
  13. Lola, the typical issue has been grounding. https://sites.google.com/site/mikefocke2/airbagwarninglighttsb My '01 went to the dealer three times before they got it right. The last two were on them.
    1 point
  14. I've had 8 months going around in circles trying resolve a leak in the passenger footwell (left hand side - UK). Tried all sorts, thinking it was air-con, windshield, drains, thinking it's solved and then more water. Absolutely sopping wet at times and at worse also a film of water over speaker grill and carpet under door soaked. I fixed broken cables yesterday that solved "ignition lock faulty", footwell was dry then, soaked today, only difference was it rained heavily in between which made me look at the sunroof drainage. Pushed a speaker cable down it, got stuck after about a metre. Poured
    1 point
  15. Ok guys, now that this seems sorted out. In my case the problem was a faulty air change-over valve. Since I was at it I also changed the electric change-over valve. I thought I'd post an entire post-mortem on the whole incident. This way future reader can get all the info in one spot. In short, no horror stories but a lot learnt. A Huge thanks to Loren, 1999Porsche911 and tholyoak for helping me thru this. Guys, I'm going to be quoting you in the writeup below, hope you guys don't mind. If people want to read the original message and the whole thread, its below. Background =========
    1 point
  16. About 3 weeks back I started getting a CEL with a Code 0335 Crankshaft Position Sensor "A" Circuit. Upper Limit Exceeded. After clearing the code it kept coming back within a day or two and the car stalled on two occasions. Based on research on the forums, this seemed very much in line with sensor failures on 955's and a DIY existed for these model years, but not the 957. My 957 now has around 120k miles, and the engine runs incredibly well, aside from this one recent anomaly. I ordered a replacement sensor, from Pelican Parts which arrived the next day (very impressive service) :lo
    1 point
  17. Hi All, I'm just about to order a 2014 off the dealer lot and it doesn't have any stereo upgrades (no bose, no pcm, no stereo plius, just the 2x25 watts). I currently have a 987 that I'm trading in that did have the Bose. I love music, but this is what they got on the lot. I want to just add a simple self powered kenwood sub under the seat (sw11) or similar this year and then later on upgrade the door speaker and and a decent amp. I want to know if there is ANY way to get a line out from the factor head unit, as I want to keep that stock. I don't want to use a JL Clean Sweep
    1 point
  18. PSS9 coilovers are awesome. Just got mine on as I've decided to putting my Boxster in to more track driving, but the PSS9's are great for street too (set around 7 on the shock). They are more than double what the Designtek ones are (at about £1700), but I've seen a few negative reviews of Designtek stuff (especially their exhausts) so not sure I'd trust my handling to them (especially at such a low cost). I've only managed to find one guy who reviewed putting their coilovers (on a 996). He was happy overall, but had to do a lot of adjustments to get there, and didn't have a long term revie
    1 point
  19. I'm thinking of removing the back seats in my '06 997. More of a GT3 look. Loren suggested I reach out to you to see how you car came out. I want to remove all including seat belts and bottoms. I look forward to hearing back from you! Thanks, Don Hi it is really easy once you've done it. Keep that in mind as you walk through these instructions. On each side you see little black plastic bolt covers, snap them out/off, and you'll see a bolt holding an adjustable bracket for the seat back. Now remove the bolt and do the same on the other side. In between the backs you'll see a little
    1 point
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