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Showing content with the highest reputation since 10/28/2020 in all areas

  1. Most likely the control boxes have returned to factory settings after the work which has been carried out. Run the "Vehicle handover" program using a PIWIS tool and you should be fine.
    1 point
  2. First off, cool post. Holy cow though, 600 Euros? I didn't realize the Bosch AGM was that much too, that's super expensive. I also just replaced my battery recently -- the original Varta AGM in my 2014 vehicle -- with an Optima Yellow-Top, which costs $250 USD and I was thinking that was pricey. You can get a DieHard Platinum AGM (apparently all the AGM's here are Johnson Controls anyway) here for about $175. The AGM batteries do last longer than conventional lead acid (with other cool benefits like no spill, vibration resistance, etc) and my 7 year old Varta probably could have made it l
    1 point
  3. As someone that spent a significant part of his career in the battery business, your use of "assuming the proportions are the same" is more than seriously flawed. The CCA test used by the BCI (Battery Council International, the international technical consortium that sets standards for battery ratings and testing procedures used by battery manufacturers world wide) is very similar to the one used by the SAE (Society of Automotive Engineers); which requires storing the finished and fully charged battery a 0F (-17.8 C) for a period of 24 hours, then load testing it to determine its CCA rating.
    1 point
  4. And here it is, already installed and working just fine: Looks awfully empty in there. I guess I have a little bit more of frunk space now 😉 The size comparison is amazing as well as the weight: 26kg the Bosch, 3.3kg the lithium. Considering that I replaced the comfort full electric seats with the 997GT2 seats, and saved about 40kg there, I managed to offset the weight of the Tip when compared with the manual 😉 Disclaimer: neither one of those mods was done to save weight, it's just a positive side-effect.
    1 point
  5. We always did it on a lift with an engine support bar under it before we undid the mounts. You only need to drop it a couple of inches to make getting at it much easier, not out of the car. Usually, the nut on the ground is not in bad shape, and a quick spray with a good penetrating oil always helps. Just be sure to wipe it off before putting it back together again, and put a small dab of anti seize inside the nut.
    1 point
  6. The correct test for the primary cables is voltage drop rather than resistance. No primary cable should show a drop of 0.5 V, if they do, they should be replaced regardless of what resistance testing shows.
    1 point
  7. If you have done 90k km or multiples of the the cardon shaft bearing need replacing before it costs you a whole shaft. Easy to check, get a small wreaking bar and move the shaft up and down, if you see cracks in the rubber around the bearing then replace it now!
    1 point
  8. Thud could be centre bearing carrier for the rear cardon shaft. Whistle may be evident if your aircon servo flaps are closed. Try opening them by turning on the fan and having air flowing to the outlets.
    1 point
  9. Just want to report the end of the story. Replacing the fuel pump didn’t change anything. Only after getting a new fuel filter the codes disappeared. No more blowing fuses. Everything ok. Car passed the emission test. Very happy. Actually not very difficult this job. Lots of DIY reports everywhere. Just it’s a mess to work inside a fuel tank. Thank you for following and supporting
    1 point
  10. Thanks for posting the update, so important for the future when we are trying to track down faults 👍
    1 point
  11. It turns out, the actual sensor itself isn't bad, one of the bushings of the ball and socket connector is completely gone.
    1 point
  12. I am a "professional" that has run his own shop for many years, and my lawyer was advising me as a business owner, based upon multiple legal actions brought against similar businesses, and it two cases, individuals who did it for former buddies that later sued them for damages, and won big $. The potential consequences simply are not worth the risk. And no one here is offering legal advice, only our experience.........
    1 point
  13. According to all the related industry literature I've read, and what my shop's legal consul has told me personally, it is a Federally mandated safety system, meaning that if you disable it, or show someone how to disable it, and the vehicle is subsequently involved in an accident, whomever did it (or showed someone how to do it) can be held both criminally and financially liable. And in many states, the vehicle is considered "unsafe" and would not pass local inspection standards. The same thing would apply to removing seat belts or disabling or removing the air bags. Proceed at y
    1 point
  14. Just take the bulb out.
    1 point
  15. From the Lost Radio Code FAQ... I get a WAIT on the display - what do I do? You have to wait at least 30 minutes before trying again.
    1 point
  16. I got mine from Dido as well. Look great and no issues so far after 2 years.
    1 point
  17. Another one for Dido Tuning off the auction site 😁 Complements the other (original) alu bits nicely.
    1 point
  18. Driving wind can also make such a noise, tape the seems from the front trunk to the other body parts with duck tape, the seals around the front windshield, the seams from the convertible top to the windshield(s) etc., do test drives to locate the noise. Of course, it would be easier to use an ultrasonic device if possible.
    1 point
  19. I also have a '99 with exact same conditions described. When I start the car after a couple weeks the sounds is there. If I use the car consecutive days the sound is much less or not there at all. From all the reading I have done, the IMS chain tensioner is a possible cause and not addressing it can increase wear on the tensioner paddle. I plan to replace this tensioner soon (pn 99610518059).
    1 point
  20. Start with the fuse -- D3 should 30A. Remove it and test the fuse with an ohm meter. D3 is in the fuse box by the drivers left leg. D3 is 4th row down and 3rd fuse from the left.
    1 point
  21. I bought these off eBay about a month or two ago. I was impressed by the quality, fit, and price. FOR PORSCHE 911 996 SPEEDO GAUGE RINGS SURROUNDS SET OF 5 Brushed Matt Aluminium ROVER.EBAY.COM PORSCHE 911 996 SERIES (1998-2005) only - all models with the dashboard like shown on the photos only. Box contains: 5x ALUMINIUM DIAL GAUGE RINGS / SURROUNDS Sample Fitting Instructions. Material finish: Brus
    1 point
  22. My experience: dido@didotuning.pl e-mail and www.didotuning.pl for the website. They take Paypal and write decent English. My order, shipped, was 185 zloty’s or $50. Got a set from them a year ago. Takes 20 minutes to put them on and they look great.
    1 point
  23. Your stated voltage measurment is weak. You should be testing the primary cables, the large ones running from the battery to the ground and starter, these are the ones that tend to develop internal corrosion. If you are unfamiliar with this test, do a search as this has been covered several times previously. We always load test both the alternator and battery when there is a problem. While this requires a load tester, it verifies that both are capable of delivering both the correct voltage and current (amps) as required.
    1 point
  24. DIY tutorial to remove center console and replace stock shifter with a Numeric shifter. I completed this modification on my 2010 C4S. Center Console Removal and Shifter Replacement.pdf
    1 point
  25. The new steering column arrived finally. The steering shaft itself comes completely out of the column when the retaining bracket on the top of the column is removed. The used replacement column came without one for some reason, but my old one went right into it and right into the lower shaft coupling in the firewall. Removal of cats is definitely not required. That brake switch bracket can also be left in and is good for supporting the column while it's being coupled up. Just a matter of putting trim back on and reconnecting the electric and it should be ready for a tow to the dealership
    1 point
  26. Also, i think you must be very carefull about alignment of the subframe back into the original position. Before removal, make some marks on the existing position.
    1 point
  27. All ignition system component's age with use, and as compression ratios go up, and obviously even more so in turbo or supercharged engines where the cylinder peak pressures escalate even more quickly, the more quickly the ignition components become unable to "light the fire", sometimes on just an intermittent level. So what you are seeing is not at all unusual or unexpected, and it is also why full race engines resort to multi spark and really high voltage ignition systems. The penance you have to pay for higher HP output on the street is more frequent maintenance and often higher quality ig
    1 point
  28. P2187 Oxygen Sensing Adaptation, Idle Range, Bank 1 (RKAT1) - Above Limit P2189 Oxygen Sensing Adaptation, Idle Range, Bank 2 (RKAT2) - Above Limit Possible fault cause - Incorrect main charge signal - Intake air system leaking - Fuel pressure too low - Volume supply of fuel pump too low - Mechanical fault in injection valves - PCV valve leaking - Cap of oil filler neck leaking - Leaks in exhaust system - EVAP canister purge valve mechanically faulty (hangs open) - EVAP canister purge valve output stage faults Start with the easy ones - the oil filler cap and the PVC.
    1 point
  29. Take a look, after removing the trim, to the park brake lever mechanism ( pedal ). There is a damper installed who's leaking and helps no longer the pedal in his stroke to come back fully, the brake switch is than not fully depressed. Unfortunately the damper is not available separately, perhaps some specialised shops can help you out.
    1 point
  30. 1. Pull engine cover vertically upwards and off. 2. Separate the six ignition coils from the wiring harness. Refer to the following note for more information. It is very difficult to access the ignition module plugs to unlock them. Therefore, use a suitable tool (e.g. a bent piece of wire) for unlocking. Press the plugs against the ignition module to facilitate unlocking. Otherwise, the plug locks may break. 3. Press plugs down slightly, unlock with a suitable tool (e.g. bent piece of wire) and remove. 4. Pull out ignition coil and lay it aside. 5. Remove the spark plugs. 6. Chec
    1 point
  31. There have a been a few occurances of the cabrio top not fully completing the cycle, or simply refusing to open or close. If the hand brake light is on, very likely it is a low hydraulic fluid condition. The work below shows step by step how to add the fluid to the system. Tools needed: 5 mm allen wrench Flat screwdriver Children medicine syringe with small hose 1 Bottle of hydraulic fluid. Porsche is the recommended, I have used John Deere below with no problems after 4 weeks of filling: The steps for the process: 1. Open the top partially to the position shown 2. Pull t
    1 point
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