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Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 03/11/2021 in Posts

  1. Welcome to RennTech P2177 Oxygen Sensing Adaptation, Lower Load Range, Bank 1 (FRAU1) – Above Limit Possible fault cause - Intake air system leaking - Leaking exhaust system (draws fresh air) - Incorrect main charge signal from MAF sensor - Fuel pressure too low - Fuel injector(s) mechanically faulty (sticks) - Volume supply of fuel pump too low P2179 Oxygen Sensing Adaptation, Lower Load Range, Bank 2 (FRAU2) - Above Limit Possible fault cause - Intake air system leaking - Leaking exhaust system (draws fresh air
    1 point
  2. Could be a sign that the DME has a RoW tune in it rather than the North American code.
    1 point
  3. If you have a qualified repair shop there is no reason not to buy the Bell Housing. Porsche, like many other manufacturers, sell only complete units.
    1 point
  4. Yes you should, have the car checked at an official Porsche Center, on the basis of their multi-points check list, before purchase.
    1 point
  5. Adding to this with a couple others I found. Thanks again finally got the job done. 👍
    1 point
  6. Welcome to RennTech Replacing that module will require coding the module with a PIWIS unit. I would suggest getting the system scanned with a Porsche specific diagnostic tool, looking at the alarm system codes to point you to what is faulting before doing anything.
    1 point
  7. That plastic connector piece is crap. Get the upgraded metal one and be done with that problem forever.
    1 point
  8. Just go to your name at the top right then choose Account Settings - then Signature.
    1 point
  9. what I contemplated doing was lifting up the bottom seat to expose the motors, then by splicing in some 12V and ground to make the motors move. But I never did it. I would contemplate doing it if the seat was way out of position. The seat control and memory module is #12. For that price not about to go through the contortions of getting the whole seat out. See diagram w/motors here Carrera Seat Adjuster Comfort Seat WWW.AUTOATLANTA.COM
    1 point
  10. I recall loosening the bolts to be able to lift the seat to get to that screw drive and lube it. Then just crawled in from the rear floor to do as taking out the bolts was such a pita. But if the seat doesn’t go forward and back I think your done. I recall the seat motors under there. But if the seat doesn’t move at all it’s likely a trip to the stealership. Problem is how to drive the car. Could you possibly, just to drive to the shop, fasten a “booster” seat using the seatbelts. Right, like a baby booster seat. Temporary only of course.
    1 point
  11. I have run into the same problem. The drivers side seat refuses to move in any direction. I pulled the switch and it appears to be okay. I pulled the white tabs under the bottom of the seat to release it from the frame. This allows access to the under seat wiring. I checked everything. I believe it comes down to the memory seat unit under the seat. I have power to it, but nothing works. I think it fried itself. Fortunately, the seat is in the correct position for me, so I gave up on it. Hasn't worked in about 2 years. It is just dead. And bonus, you need to be able to run the seat fo
    1 point
  12. Yep, ignorance is bliss. my recollection is you cannot manually adjust the powered seats. I remember the procedure for lubing the forward/back screw-like drive, but don’t recall ever reading about any manual adjustment. good luck.
    1 point
  13. Welcome to RennTech Noting your comment about rodents, there is a flap valve in the gas fill neck that is operated by a combination of a switch and magnet that has to open for gas to flow in. It is located on the side of the filler neck itself. I would start there, checking the associated wiring for damage. This diagram if for an earlier Boxster, but you can see the controls near the top of the filler neck, yours should be similar: Good luck, rodent damage is always a pain to work on.
    1 point
  14. I think a compression test would be the next move - just to verify whether there is a mechanical problem or not.
    1 point
  15. If you are even considering that, that's because you don't really like the car and should sell it. To me. For cheap.
    1 point
  16. I added a switch to the top of my relay so if I ever wanted it to go back to normal. I've never touched the switch. Sent from my GM1917 using Tapatalk
    1 point
  17. Undo fastening screws 1. To reduce the unclipping forces and thereby the risk of damage during removal, the removal steps must be carried out at the accessible connection points using a suitable tool. Unclip trim panel for spring strut mount 2 first upwards Arrows A and then pull out slightly in direction of Arrow B. Check fastening nuts 1 and clamps 2, 3, and replace if necessary.
    1 point
  18. As I recall there is a cap on the inside of the car that gives you access to remove it.
    1 point
  19. mjk: The following are from a late model 986, for reference. The set up should be the same, but you might double check: In this one, I drew in the orientation of the string over the plastic ear. . . Here's the real thing . . . . A view of how it is routed over the tubular part of the frame . . Overall view. . . Make sure that there is still some elasticity in the center elastic band so that it can maintain the proper tension to guide the tension cable into the guide channels. If it has lost all of its elasticity, you can replace it or patch in a
    1 point
  20. Sorry, my mistake - your car is a 987. Yes it is on the drivers side but access is through the front trunk. You will need to remove the luggage compartment lining to get to the upper plug. and remover the two torx head screws. Then remove the inner wheel well lining and disconnect the canister fittings there (underneath the canister as you lift).
    1 point
  21. Sorry, but unless it is a loose spark plug - compression loss usually means major engine work.
    0 points
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