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Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 09/27/2020 in Posts

  1. All of the larger cables are susceptible to this problem. The longer the cable, like to the starter, the worse the problem because their length exacerbates the resistance issue, leading to larger voltage drops. The only real trick to checking each one with either a multimeter or Power Probe unit (Power Probes actually have a specific setting for checking voltage drops, plus the Power Probe's long leads back to the battery make the testing process easier).
    2 points
  2. Porsche "Book Time" to replace both front wheel bearings is 4.7 hours times your shops hourly rate. Porsche "Book Times" are usually a high estimate - an experienced tech can usually do the job in much less. So let the shop quote time - as long as it is under the "Book Time" you are likely good.
    2 points
  3. Looks like the part that goes inside the oil filter canister - to hold the filter in place. Just clean it and then push it back in.
    2 points
  4. Updated parts list (your's is 15 years old). 997.1 rear strut.pdf
    2 points
  5. First of all, LN Engineering's IMS Solution is a LOT more than just an oil feed line; the bearing insert is a solid bearing (no moving parts) with annular oil passages just like the almighty Mezger turbo engines used, the IMS shaft is plugged to prevent oil accumulation and the balance problems associated by running the shaft full of oil, the replacement rear IMS flange is coated with a Diamond like coating for strength and longevity, and the oil feed is sourced at the oil filter to get clean, cool oil rather than where some others have sourced it. Perhaps one of the biggest advantages of the
    2 points
  6. No idea on cost of getting piwis, only that, I believe, it can only be done at a $tealership.
    1 point
  7. By far, the larger issue with the power steering systems on these cars is heat, not debris. More power steering pumps fail from overheating than anything else. There are a couple of aftermarket companies producing add on coolers because of this issue.
    1 point
  8. On thing you are not considering is that the control module itself may be involved. If that is the case, you are going to need a sharp tech and access to the PIWIS system.
    1 point
  9. thank you both so much, the crankshaft position sensor went on me earlier during covid. when I pulled out the dipstick tube to get to the plug, the o-ring for the dipstick tube decided to stay in the block. It was a super pita to get that out we've been without the car for a while. getting these plugs sorted without putting them backwards is the last step to get the car back on the road
    1 point
  10. I believe the single blue wire goes to the generator, and the plug with two wires goes to the sensor.
    1 point
  11. I've receive an answer from a PST2 sellers and specialist on Ebay, Mike, and here's his answer about this error message with the PST2.... "That error is because the URI hardware module does not have the porsche special firmware; the firmware needs to be updated. I would not worry about it, since you're better off testing resistance with a hand-held multimeter. Some users burned out or damaged the motherboards when they tried to test continuity on live circuits, and unlike the PIWIS testers, the PST2 does not have fuse protection."
    1 point
  12. No, but it very well could be the "speed gong" associated with the on board computer.
    1 point
  13. You need to have a diagnostic scan run with a Porsche specific tester like PIWIS or Durametric. It will report back fault codes - get those and post them here.
    1 point
  14. 👍Glad you got it sorted. This is exactly why we always suggest running voltage drop tests on the primary cables, they are a known issue with these cars and even Porsche released "new & improved" cables to try and address the issue.
    1 point
  15. This is a belated reply to document the resolution of my car's low voltage problem. Replacing the cable between the alternator and the starter entirely resolved the issue. As JFP correctly noted, apparently the cable I replaced had developed internal corrosion causing an increase in resistance. It's frustrating when a Porsche dealer tells you everything is okay when you know it isn't. Now having the requisite voltage flowing throughout the vehicle is a beautiful thing.
    1 point
  16. I apologize for being late to the party. I am running PS2s in 295/30-18 on my C2 Cab, lowered on B8s and H&R springs. No clearance issues. That said, I wouldn’t do it again. The 295 on a 10” wheel is a bit too much. I noticed the extra sidewall flex almost immediately when pushing the car on corner entry (yes, mine are N spec). I’ll definitely go back to 285 on next change. If you have 11” wheels, 295s should be great. You may not notice, but this was my experience.
    1 point
  17. 1 point
  18. At 90,000 miles Porsche recommend to replace the front differential oil. But the all wheel drive on 996 turbo got no controller as such. It is a viscous coupling. Viscous clutch on the parts catalog item#6. This viscous coupling is sealed and no maintenance is required....
    1 point
  19. Yes. I think most on forum would agree. Right, Jeff? Like replacing the old sealed hydraulic chain tensioners with oil pressure tensioners. (That’s for those of us who might have had an air-cooled 911.). I think LE calls it “the solution.”
    1 point
  20. Welcome to RennTech If your DME (what you refer to as an ECU) actually got wet, most of the car would have been under water, so I would not be surprised things aren't working. I assume you are referring to the box under the seat, which is the alarm/immobilizer unit. If that is the case, remove the unit and rinse it out with isopropyl alcohol , which you can get at any grocery or pharmacy. Remove the small fuse on the unit and make sure it did not blow when it got wet. Use a hair dryer to dry out the unit, reassemble and you should be good to go.
    1 point
  21. Your stated voltage measurment is weak. You should be testing the primary cables, the large ones running from the battery to the ground and starter, these are the ones that tend to develop internal corrosion. If you are unfamiliar with this test, do a search as this has been covered several times previously. We always load test both the alternator and battery when there is a problem. While this requires a load tester, it verifies that both are capable of delivering both the correct voltage and current (amps) as required.
    1 point
  22. Only problem is that the cables corrode internally(where it cannot be seen) on these cars, leading to high resistance and lowered voltages. I would run a voltage drop test across both primary cables; if you see more then 0.5 V drop, you need cables. I would also load test both the battery and alternator, which may have a weak diode that would only show up under load.
    1 point
  23. Actually it really does follow. If your CTT is 10 years old it would be a good idea to clean the throttle body and the MAFS. The MAF sensors do effect fuel metering in your CTT. Cheers!
    1 point
  24. For what it's worth. I had similar symptoms with no codes. Disconnected both MAFS (it did then throw two codes) and the car ran fine. Cleaned both MAFS, reconnected and all was well. Cheers!
    1 point
  25. Disconnect the pump 1 electrical connection from the pump, replace the pump 1 fuse, start her up a few times and see if the fuse blows again with #1 pump disconnected. That should give us a clue to what's going on.
    1 point
  26. Change both pumps. Change the fuel filter. Change the fuel regulator.
    1 point
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