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Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 11/17/2020 in Posts

  1. The correct test for the primary cables is voltage drop rather than resistance. No primary cable should show a drop of 0.5 V, if they do, they should be replaced regardless of what resistance testing shows.
    1 point
  2. If you have done 90k km or multiples of the the cardon shaft bearing need replacing before it costs you a whole shaft. Easy to check, get a small wreaking bar and move the shaft up and down, if you see cracks in the rubber around the bearing then replace it now!
    1 point
  3. Thud could be centre bearing carrier for the rear cardon shaft. Whistle may be evident if your aircon servo flaps are closed. Try opening them by turning on the fan and having air flowing to the outlets.
    1 point
  4. Just want to report the end of the story. Replacing the fuel pump didn’t change anything. Only after getting a new fuel filter the codes disappeared. No more blowing fuses. Everything ok. Car passed the emission test. Very happy. Actually not very difficult this job. Lots of DIY reports everywhere. Just it’s a mess to work inside a fuel tank. Thank you for following and supporting
    1 point
  5. Start with the fuse -- D3 should 30A. Remove it and test the fuse with an ohm meter. D3 is in the fuse box by the drivers left leg. D3 is 4th row down and 3rd fuse from the left.
    1 point
  6. The new steering column arrived finally. The steering shaft itself comes completely out of the column when the retaining bracket on the top of the column is removed. The used replacement column came without one for some reason, but my old one went right into it and right into the lower shaft coupling in the firewall. Removal of cats is definitely not required. That brake switch bracket can also be left in and is good for supporting the column while it's being coupled up. Just a matter of putting trim back on and reconnecting the electric and it should be ready for a tow to the dealership
    1 point
  7. 1. Pull engine cover vertically upwards and off. 2. Separate the six ignition coils from the wiring harness. Refer to the following note for more information. It is very difficult to access the ignition module plugs to unlock them. Therefore, use a suitable tool (e.g. a bent piece of wire) for unlocking. Press the plugs against the ignition module to facilitate unlocking. Otherwise, the plug locks may break. 3. Press plugs down slightly, unlock with a suitable tool (e.g. bent piece of wire) and remove. 4. Pull out ignition coil and lay it aside. 5. Remove the spark plugs. 6. Chec
    1 point
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