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Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 05/12/2020 in all areas

  1. You can get a set of small "ez out" hex bits, one of which should fit tightly into the bolt head while rotating counter clockwise, which will loosen the stripped fastener. Amazon and others sell them (Amazon screw/bolt extractor set)
    3 points
  2. The headlights look fine to me.... people obsessing over headlights and BS like that are what makes the 996TT still one of the best cars out there, pound-for-pound, dollar-for-dollar
    2 points
  3. The factory default for the valves is the loud position, so if they are not hooked up, that is what you get. The valves only move to the "quiet" position when activated. The original reason for the valves was the incredibly restrictive Swiss noise laws for residential neighborhoods, so when the vehicle was operating a low speeds, it was quiet.
    2 points
  4. Sometimes when there is a voltage spike to the system (like connecting a new battery) the programming can get "mixed up". When this happens the best thing to do is have a tech/shop with a PIWIS re-program the affected control module(s). I think it very rare to replace a DME if most everything but one or two items are not working.
    2 points
  5. All of the larger cables are susceptible to this problem. The longer the cable, like to the starter, the worse the problem because their length exacerbates the resistance issue, leading to larger voltage drops. The only real trick to checking each one with either a multimeter or Power Probe unit (Power Probes actually have a specific setting for checking voltage drops, plus the Power Probe's long leads back to the battery make the testing process easier).
    2 points
  6. Porsche "Book Time" to replace both front wheel bearings is 4.7 hours times your shops hourly rate. Porsche "Book Times" are usually a high estimate - an experienced tech can usually do the job in much less. So let the shop quote time - as long as it is under the "Book Time" you are likely good.
    2 points
  7. Looks like the part that goes inside the oil filter canister - to hold the filter in place. Just clean it and then push it back in.
    2 points
  8. Updated parts list (your's is 15 years old). 997.1 rear strut.pdf
    2 points
  9. First of all, LN Engineering's IMS Solution is a LOT more than just an oil feed line; the bearing insert is a solid bearing (no moving parts) with annular oil passages just like the almighty Mezger turbo engines used, the IMS shaft is plugged to prevent oil accumulation and the balance problems associated by running the shaft full of oil, the replacement rear IMS flange is coated with a Diamond like coating for strength and longevity, and the oil feed is sourced at the oil filter to get clean, cool oil rather than where some others have sourced it. Perhaps one of the biggest advantages of the
    2 points
  10. I would first check the one you have to make sure it is not blocked from air flow by debris.
    2 points
  11. Welcome to RennTech , and your English is fine, and much better than our Greek! It probably caused by oil pressure bleeding down from the hydraulic tensioner's in the VarioCam system, which do not cost that much, either in Euros or $.
    2 points
  12. Be aware the most dealer will not share the service records for the vehicle because they legally belong to the previous owner(s), and the dealers are uninclined to track them down and get a legal release.
    2 points
  13. I agree with millerchris85. After all the work and money poured into my CTT it’s eh now and I’d have been better served tuning up my 996TT. If you really must have a sporty drive in a Cayenne then I suggest looking after a 958 GTS, Turbo or Turbo S and having someone tuned them to your liking. Be forewarned though you will wear through ancillaries (brakes, axles, tensioners, etc...) much faster depending on how much and how hard you drive
    2 points
  14. A cooler on the return line from the rack to the pump will probably help.
    2 points
  15. Charge pressure sender Manifold pressure sender
    2 points
  16. A couple of days ago my head unit started cycling off and on every minute or so. I found some posts that these things are notorious for failing so I started looking for a place that would repair it. Luckily I found the Becker office in Saddle Brook NJ, called them, and they emailed me instructions how to fix it. Apparently my XM SAT provider caused the problem. It required a reboot as per below: WARNING It was brought to our attention, that the PCM 3.0 and 3.1 units have been rebooting continuously on a number of Porsche vehicles at the moment. It seems that a signal was s
    2 points
  17. OK, first of all, either twisting wires together and wrapping them with tape, or using wire nuts is totally unacceptable for automotive applications. Both are pathways to shorts and even fires. Wires should be reconnected with crimp connectors at a minimum, with soldering them and then using heat shrink tubing to cover the soldered joints the actual preferred method. Most likely, in the process of doing this swap, you disturbed something, but exactly what is hard to say, particularly as the previous owner used the twisted wire and tape wrap method of connecting things. It is ent
    2 points
  18. You should not have to - unless you hooked up the new battery backwards. If the polarity was hooked up correctly then you need to start looking for poor grounds. Starting with the battery cable then chassis grounds.
    2 points
  19. Your stated voltage measurment is weak. You should be testing the primary cables, the large ones running from the battery to the ground and starter, these are the ones that tend to develop internal corrosion. If you are unfamiliar with this test, do a search as this has been covered several times previously. We always load test both the alternator and battery when there is a problem. While this requires a load tester, it verifies that both are capable of delivering both the correct voltage and current (amps) as required.
    2 points
  20. DIY tutorial to remove center console and replace stock shifter with a Numeric shifter. I completed this modification on my 2010 C4S. Center Console Removal and Shifter Replacement.pdf
    2 points
  21. Eureka! I suppose during the time you guys were typing, I was arriving at the same conclusion. I pulled the latch mechanism out and examined it up-close. The tension spring was out of a pocket on the latch and not providing any push when the latch was released. Hence, the hood could be pulled up out of 'battery' but would not pop up on its own. I disassembled the mechanism, lubed it, and re-inserted the spring into the latch. Put it back together and now all is well. Very simple to do. This is how I did it and you may find it useful. Do so at your own risk, yada yada yada. 1st, open
    2 points
  22. Ok here is the deal with removing these things..... 1. First you must remove Both AC Vents, and the Upper Center Console... The strips are held in from screws behind the dash, but reaching them is a waist of time! 2. The 2 small strips will pop out with some force, just take a flat head screwdriver and tap it in behind the strip. The screws will pop out from the back of the dash... The dash is a hard plastic material and the screw heads are small so they will come right through the dash.. 3. The long piece across the passanger side was fun... Tape the dash will several
    2 points
  23. Note: Part numbers sometimes change without notice. Always double check with your supplier that you have the latest part numbers. (Special thanks to Chuck Jones for being the guinea pig and for taking the photos.) Parts you will need: 997.624.113.00 Actuator Tools you will need: Very short Torx T20 driver and right angle ratchet or tool to use the short T20 in a very confined space Regular screwdriver, phillips screw driver, and 10 mm wrench to remove th wheel well liner 1. Jack the car so that right front wheel is off the ground and secure it with a jack stand. Remove the ri
    2 points
  24. Welcome to RennTech Anyone that has spent any time running back to back dyno test of various hardware on a single vehicle would tell you the +/-3 HP run to run should be considered experimental error more than proof of anything, as well as rarely reproducible; and that dyno results on totally different brands of vehicles are not comparable. But it is your car and your money, and if you are happy with your choice of air filters, enjoy.
    1 point
  25. I created a video on how to remove and disassemble the front door. This includes removing the bottom trim strip, door lock, door handle, inner door panel, window/frame and door shell.
    1 point
  26. Then using the basic rule to always go back to the last thing you worked on, the intake plenum.
    1 point
  27. There is so much wrong with this approach I don't know where to begin. Agreed, a trip to the dealer MAY sort this out, but I would hold onto your wallet. The key, immobilzer and DME/ECU must all be programmed with the same codes only Porsche Stuttgart can provide, to a licensed Porsche dealer with PIWIs. What you have done is replace parts with other parts and expect them to work. It doesn't work like that. Key provides both the mechanical laser cut key blade that works the electro-mechanical parts of the door locks and key switch, BUT, also includes an passive RFID pill that must match
    1 point
  28. As someone that spent a significant part of his career in the battery business, your use of "assuming the proportions are the same" is more than seriously flawed. The CCA test used by the BCI (Battery Council International, the international technical consortium that sets standards for battery ratings and testing procedures used by battery manufacturers world wide) is very similar to the one used by the SAE (Society of Automotive Engineers); which requires storing the finished and fully charged battery a 0F (-17.8 C) for a period of 24 hours, then load testing it to determine its CCA rating.
    1 point
  29. No idea on cost of getting piwis, only that, I believe, it can only be done at a $tealership.
    1 point
  30. On thing you are not considering is that the control module itself may be involved. If that is the case, you are going to need a sharp tech and access to the PIWIS system.
    1 point
  31. At 90,000 miles Porsche recommend to replace the front differential oil. But the all wheel drive on 996 turbo got no controller as such. It is a viscous coupling. Viscous clutch on the parts catalog item#6. This viscous coupling is sealed and no maintenance is required....
    1 point
  32. I would use circuit board cleaner on the board but be careful as old rubberized buttons can tear with rough cleaning.
    1 point
  33. I think they are referring to the flexible disc at the end of the cardan shaft.
    1 point
  34. Thanks, I will have a go during lock-down, gives me something to do!
    1 point
  35. It is a fire rated wire clamp holding in one direction only using a toothed surface, patented in 2001 and held by Gripple Ltd., and agricultural fencing and equipment company in Sheffield England. 😉
    1 point
  36. P000C - DME DFI) control unit Possible fault causes - Dynamic driving style when oil level is near minimum (oil foaming) - Solenoid valve for hydraulic camshaft adjustment faulty (e.g. mechanical fault or dirt (oil circuit) ) - Engine oil pressure too low (e.g. oil thinning, oil thickening, wrong oil quality, oil pressure control or oil pump faulty) - Camshaft adjustment faulty - Intake camshaft stuck
    1 point
  37. In our modern litigious world, manufacturers have learned that they must advise the users of their product of everything that might hurt them by using the product no matter how stupid it is, so when the users do hurt themselves, blame the manufacturer, and demand compensation, the manufacturer can say they warned them. Thus everything these days from cars to coffee cups have warning stickers of some sort on them. So it is with airbags, and every car owner in the US is blessed with stickers on the sunvisor telling them to be careful. If you are like me, I got the message a while ago, and d
    1 point
  38. 991 S (both C2S and C4S) Front new: 34 mm minimum (after machining): 32.6 mm wear limit: 32.0 mm Rear new: 28 mm minimum (after machining): 26.6 mm wear limit: 26.0 mm
    1 point
  39. The new steering column arrived finally. The steering shaft itself comes completely out of the column when the retaining bracket on the top of the column is removed. The used replacement column came without one for some reason, but my old one went right into it and right into the lower shaft coupling in the firewall. Removal of cats is definitely not required. That brake switch bracket can also be left in and is good for supporting the column while it's being coupled up. Just a matter of putting trim back on and reconnecting the electric and it should be ready for a tow to the dealership
    1 point
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