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Showing content with the highest reputation since 09/20/2020 in all areas

  1. Some after photos... Definitely took more time cleaning than building this motor....
    3 points
  2. The headlights look fine to me.... people obsessing over headlights and BS like that are what makes the 996TT still one of the best cars out there, pound-for-pound, dollar-for-dollar
    3 points
  3. You can get a set of small "ez out" hex bits, one of which should fit tightly into the bolt head while rotating counter clockwise, which will loosen the stripped fastener. Amazon and others sell them (Amazon screw/bolt extractor set)
    3 points
  4. I created a video on how to remove and disassemble the front door. This includes removing the bottom trim strip, door lock, door handle, inner door panel, window/frame and door shell.
    2 points
  5. The factory default for the valves is the loud position, so if they are not hooked up, that is what you get. The valves only move to the "quiet" position when activated. The original reason for the valves was the incredibly restrictive Swiss noise laws for residential neighborhoods, so when the vehicle was operating a low speeds, it was quiet.
    2 points
  6. If you are even considering that, that's because you don't really like the car and should sell it. To me. For cheap.
    2 points
  7. Sometimes when there is a voltage spike to the system (like connecting a new battery) the programming can get "mixed up". When this happens the best thing to do is have a tech/shop with a PIWIS re-program the affected control module(s). I think it very rare to replace a DME if most everything but one or two items are not working.
    2 points
  8. As someone that spent a significant part of his career in the battery business, your use of "assuming the proportions are the same" is more than seriously flawed. The CCA test used by the BCI (Battery Council International, the international technical consortium that sets standards for battery ratings and testing procedures used by battery manufacturers world wide) is very similar to the one used by the SAE (Society of Automotive Engineers); which requires storing the finished and fully charged battery a 0F (-17.8 C) for a period of 24 hours, then load testing it to determine its CCA rating. There is no known "proportioning" formula for determining this value, only hard testing data. Lightweight battery manufacturers have been "inventing" unique rating values and "equivalencies" without a basis in technical facts, and that are really totally meaningless, simply because they know what the outcome of publishing the more widely accepted testing data would be: Their batteries would appear weak compared to conventional SLI (starting, lighting, ignition) batteries.
    2 points
  9. All of the larger cables are susceptible to this problem. The longer the cable, like to the starter, the worse the problem because their length exacerbates the resistance issue, leading to larger voltage drops. The only real trick to checking each one with either a multimeter or Power Probe unit (Power Probes actually have a specific setting for checking voltage drops, plus the Power Probe's long leads back to the battery make the testing process easier).
    2 points
  10. Porsche "Book Time" to replace both front wheel bearings is 4.7 hours times your shops hourly rate. Porsche "Book Times" are usually a high estimate - an experienced tech can usually do the job in much less. So let the shop quote time - as long as it is under the "Book Time" you are likely good.
    2 points
  11. Looks like the part that goes inside the oil filter canister - to hold the filter in place. Just clean it and then push it back in.
    2 points
  12. Updated parts list (your's is 15 years old). 997.1 rear strut.pdf
    2 points
  13. First of all, LN Engineering's IMS Solution is a LOT more than just an oil feed line; the bearing insert is a solid bearing (no moving parts) with annular oil passages just like the almighty Mezger turbo engines used, the IMS shaft is plugged to prevent oil accumulation and the balance problems associated by running the shaft full of oil, the replacement rear IMS flange is coated with a Diamond like coating for strength and longevity, and the oil feed is sourced at the oil filter to get clean, cool oil rather than where some others have sourced it. Perhaps one of the biggest advantages of the Solution is that it never has to be replaced like other IMS retrofits, it is the ONLY permanent fix for IMS related headaches. We have never has any problems with the LN IMS Solution; it simply works, period
    2 points
  14. Your stated voltage measurment is weak. You should be testing the primary cables, the large ones running from the battery to the ground and starter, these are the ones that tend to develop internal corrosion. If you are unfamiliar with this test, do a search as this has been covered several times previously. We always load test both the alternator and battery when there is a problem. While this requires a load tester, it verifies that both are capable of delivering both the correct voltage and current (amps) as required.
    2 points
  15. Eureka! I suppose during the time you guys were typing, I was arriving at the same conclusion. I pulled the latch mechanism out and examined it up-close. The tension spring was out of a pocket on the latch and not providing any push when the latch was released. Hence, the hood could be pulled up out of 'battery' but would not pop up on its own. I disassembled the mechanism, lubed it, and re-inserted the spring into the latch. Put it back together and now all is well. Very simple to do. This is how I did it and you may find it useful. Do so at your own risk, yada yada yada. 1st, open the hood and peel back the carpet cover just inside of the latch. Next, using a flat-head screwdriver, remove the four plastic 'screws' holding the trim plate between the bumper and the hood flange. They merely turn 90 degrees (so that they are perpendicular to the car's direction of travel) and pop out. Then remove the trim piece and place to the side. Next, using a ten millimeter socket, remove the two bolts securing the latch to the car. They are located just inside the trunk under the carpet you just peeled back. Once they are removed, the latch is now only held in place by two metal cables and the alarm pin switch wires. Carefully unplug the alarm wires. Push in on a small 'latch' on the lower half of the plug and pull out the lower half. Then carefully rotate the upper half about 45 degrees (it should be fairly easy to move, don't force it) and the plug will pop out of the metal holder. Then use a small screwdriver to gently push a release clip on the plastic mounting point. This will allow the small plastic mount to separate from the wiring plug. Now you need to gently remove the cables from their sockets. Take the tension off of the upper cable and gently pull the cable up out of its socket. Then remove the lower cable in the same way. The only thing holding the latch in the car now is the alarm wiring harness. Push the rubber grommet through the body toward the bumper. You can then pull the wiring through and the entire latch will come out of the car. Be sure to set the stainless steel shroud to the side. It was not attached on my car but may be on yours. Now that you have the latch out of the car, you can see the large diameter steel spring that is wound around the large post to the passenger side of the latch. That is the culprit. The small plastic shroud over it pulled straight out and off of my latch. This is the microswitch that tells the alarm that the trunk is open or closed. Set it to the side. You should now see the latch mechanism and the hole that the spring needs to be in to function properly. I used two screwdrivers to push the other end of the spring (the end on the release / catch mechanism ) over the catch. This allowed me to push the end into the latch more easily. I then popped the spring back over the catch. Now there should be tension on both the latch and the catch. Lubricate with white lithium grease, or some other semi-solid lubricant and work the mechanism to ensure that it is functioning properly. Once you have confirmed proper function, reassemble in reverse order (i.e. put the alarm switch back on - it should snap right back in place ), pop the cable back on, thread the wiring through and secure the grommet in place, place the stainless shroud on, insert the bolts and loosely tighten things. Once the bolts are in, line up the hood and the latch mechanism and tighten down the latch. Replace the plastic bumper/body trim piece but don't insert the 'screws' until you've tested the hood a couple times. Once it is clear that the hood is functioning properly, secure the trim, replace the carpet and smile at a job well done, for free. If I can figure out how to transfer my pictures out of my camera phone I'll add some illustration to this. Hope this helps. I was frustrated as *)*^*( until y'all help me realize what the problem was. Pictures ...
    2 points
  16. Ok here is the deal with removing these things..... 1. First you must remove Both AC Vents, and the Upper Center Console... The strips are held in from screws behind the dash, but reaching them is a waist of time! 2. The 2 small strips will pop out with some force, just take a flat head screwdriver and tap it in behind the strip. The screws will pop out from the back of the dash... The dash is a hard plastic material and the screw heads are small so they will come right through the dash.. 3. The long piece across the passanger side was fun... Tape the dash will several pieces of tape to protect the dash in case you slip. These pieces have 2 layers to them.. take a flat head screwdriver and open the top part of the stip.. It will look like this once you peel off the top layer..you can see the top of the scew holes after you peel off the top layer Now my stereo installer had the next idea.. he took a small soldering gun like this... and heated up the head of the screw that is seen from the top side.. this made the area around the screw soft, and then I took the screwdriver behind the remaining strip and pried it right off.. it broke off to every screw head.. we just did this right along and 10 minutes later it was all out.. Be sure to not get the solder gun to close the the leather.. just keep it on for about 30 seconds.. it really is helpful if one guy holds the solder gun while the other removes the strip. The top piece is the stripped piece.. the bottom is the whole piece that was pulled out from the middle. Installing the new pieces was simple, a little silicone behind them helped the stay in place but its not needed..
    2 points
  17. Note: Part numbers sometimes change without notice. Always double check with your supplier that you have the latest part numbers. (Special thanks to Chuck Jones for being the guinea pig and for taking the photos.) Parts you will need: 997.624.113.00 Actuator Tools you will need: Very short Torx T20 driver and right angle ratchet or tool to use the short T20 in a very confined space Regular screwdriver, phillips screw driver, and 10 mm wrench to remove th wheel well liner 1. Jack the car so that right front wheel is off the ground and secure it with a jack stand. Remove the right front wheel. 2. Remove the wheel well liner by removing the the plastics rivets (pry them out with a regular screwdriver). As well remove the 10 mm nuts on each side of the axle. Now remove the phillips screws that fasten the wheel well liner under the front bumper and remove the wheel well liner (and set aside). 3. Locate the EVAP canister and remove the electrical connection at the top of the canister. Now remove the 10 mm nut that holds the canister in place. Remove gas the vapor lines - one at the top and one at the bottom (again by squeezing the connectors). Remove the EVAP canister by pulling gently back and forth until it releases from the rubber gromments 4. Look back up under the fender (now that the canister is out of the way) and locate the broken actuator. Now using the stubby Torx T-20 loose (but do not remove) the two T-20 screws. The actuator itself is a bit tough to get to and you will need a really short T-20 Torx head to loosen the two screws. I say loosen because that is all you need to do to remove the part - it sits in two "U" shaped slots. Remove the electrical connector (by squeezing the tab). Here is a pic of the new part - as you see the Torx screws are already in place so that is all you have to do to replace it. 5. Put the new part in place making sure you feed the emergency pull line through the fender to its location in the door jam. There is room to slide it through the side so you don't need to try and thread it through the hole. Fasten the two Torx screws and reconnect the electrical connector. Chuck's car had the guide rose guide piece missing (so he needed to order one) Here is a pic of his car (without guide rose) and my car (with guide rose). Ref. P/N 997.624.505.00 We also noticed that on his car the plastic catch for the lock was missing (so he needed to order that too). Here is a pic of his car (without cap) and my car (with cap). Ref. P/N 996.201.243.00 6. Reinstall the EVAP canister by pushing it into place on the rubber gromments. Then reattach the vapor lines (they should snap back into place) and the electrical connection. Finally put the 10 mm nut back in place and tighten down. 7. Reinstall the wheel well liner (reverse of removal). 8. Mount the tire, lower the car and re-torque the wheel bolts. Done.
    2 points
  18. I think your problem may rest with the central locking computer under the driver’s seat, which prevents the car from starting by shutting off the fuel and ignition. These cars are infamous for letting water accumulate in the area where the control unit is located, causing corrosion and shorts that lead to problems with the windows, starting, locking the car, and an entire host of other nightmares. Suggest disconnecting your battery, removing your driver seat, pulling the control unit and opening it up; if it shows any signs of corrosion or water, that needs to be fixed first. There have been an endless list of posts here and elsewhere about this issue with photos of what a damaged control unit looks like. Good luck, and this is not an inexpensive repair.
    1 point
  19. I had this and ended up having to replace the window as the inner stop is bonded to the glass, not cheapi had a similar issue and as the strip and inner seal is bonded to the glas s it need a whole new screen, they were not for me separate replaceable itema
    1 point
  20. Welcome to RennTech Anyone that has spent any time running back to back dyno test of various hardware on a single vehicle would tell you the +/-3 HP run to run should be considered experimental error more than proof of anything, as well as rarely reproducible; and that dyno results on totally different brands of vehicles are not comparable. But it is your car and your money, and if you are happy with your choice of air filters, enjoy.
    1 point
  21. Perhaps but SD slot is in back so it's awkward to switch it out. I think better possibility may be similar to audi or Lamborghini maps. I think first thing is to see if it can be copied so one can have archive
    1 point
  22. welcome to RennTech Amazon my have what you are looking for; https://smile.amazon.com/s?k=outside+mirror+wide+angle+stick+on&ref=nb_sb_noss
    1 point
  23. Hi all, Hoping to provide some clarity on replacing the crankshaft position sensor on a 986 WITH Tiptronic transmission as I have not seen (or was unable to find) any good/clear pictures of the process to find the sensor. As I found out, it is hiding well behind the plug/receptacle for the Oxygen sensor on the right side of the vehicle. I read all kinds of guides pointing me to the correct general location, but they all pretty much said it was obvious and I knew exactly what I was looking for. I spent well over an hour searching because I could not see it, and found out that on a Tiptronic, you have no direct line of sight to the sensor unless you move the oxygen sensor plug/receptacle. Hopefully these pictures will help anyone else trying to replace the CPS no a tip. In order to see the CPS you must unplug the oxygen sensor, remove the receptacle mounting bolt and push both cables and mount/receptacle out of your way. The view shown here is from underneath the car looking up towards the wheel well and CV joint. A wider view of the area you need to look into remove the oxygen sensor, receptacle, and bracket. You can follow the cable from the oxygen sensor to the bracket in order to find it more easily. This is your entry point and trajectory. Just beside the right rear brake caliper, under the brake fluid line, past the coolant reservoir drain hose. The extension is probably all of 18 inches to get you deep into where you need to be to unscrew the bolt holding the CPS in place. I used the light you see plus a large work light on the floor to finally visualize the sensor. The only way I was finally able to find the sensor was to identify the cable from the sensor and follow it by hand and light. That is when I realized I could not see it due to the oxygen sensor plug being in the way. This is just a wider shot of the entry using the light as a reference and the brake caliper is in the foreground. Here is a view of the CPS still in place, but the bolt has been removed. The oxygen sensor plug and receptacle have also been removed and pushed out of the way. Once you see the CPS, it is obvious that is what you've been looking for. What I think are coolant hoses are very close to the trajectory you need to access the bolt. My extensions were pushed up right next to these hoses and I had to push on them with the tool in order to get access to the bolt. Just a couple of other tips and tricks. The bolt of the CPS is held on by thread locker. Make sure you have good engagement with your male hex into the screw head during removal, otherwise it could strip. I recommend ordering a new screw for the CPS while you're at it, the newer ones are torx and less likely to strip. Once you locate the CPS you will find that you can actually reach in there with your fingers through a path in order to push it out of and into the hole. When you go to put in your new CPS, place it in first without the bolt. You can wiggle it into the hole reasonably easy with your fingers through the aforementioned path. When you go to place the bolt, either use a magnetic tool or tape the bolt to your male hex so that it doesn't fall off. Yours truly lost the original bolt and still have yet to find it. Luckily it is a pretty standard M6x16 available at your local hardware store. But I have no clue where that bolt ended up. I searched by every means possible including a powerful magnet around the area of loss and still could not find it. Hope this helps save you the hour or so of searching in your 986 Tiptronic for the CPS. Remove that O2 sensor harness first and you'll save a bunch of time and frustration!
    1 point
  24. Welcome to RennTech P2177 Oxygen Sensing Adaptation, Lower Load Range, Bank 1 (FRAU1) – Above Limit Possible fault cause - Intake air system leaking - Leaking exhaust system (draws fresh air) - Incorrect main charge signal from MAF sensor - Fuel pressure too low - Fuel injector(s) mechanically faulty (sticks) - Volume supply of fuel pump too low P2179 Oxygen Sensing Adaptation, Lower Load Range, Bank 2 (FRAU2) - Above Limit Possible fault cause - Intake air system leaking - Leaking exhaust system (draws fresh air) - Incorrect main charge signal from MAF sensor - Fuel pressure too low - Fuel injector(s) mechanically faulty (sticks) - Volume supply of fuel pump too low Since this affects both banks - it looks like you likely have an air leak.
    1 point
  25. Adding to this with a couple others I found. Thanks again finally got the job done. 👍
    1 point
  26. That plastic connector piece is crap. Get the upgraded metal one and be done with that problem forever.
    1 point
  27. Yep, ignorance is bliss. my recollection is you cannot manually adjust the powered seats. I remember the procedure for lubing the forward/back screw-like drive, but don’t recall ever reading about any manual adjustment. good luck.
    1 point
  28. Parran, I am happy to help, Would you please Email me? john@fabspeed.com If you are buying the system used, i cannot give you any insight on what the previous owner is including in the sale. If you buy it first hand from us I can guarantee all needed hardware is included and will be covered under our Lifetime warranty. We changed the design because customers reported droning in the 2-3k RPM band. The new Gen. is drone free and sounds incredible. Much more worth it in my opinion.
    1 point
  29. Small rodent trapped in the HVAC? If PASM equipped air compressor on the way out?
    1 point
  30. You can use a smoke test to find intake systems leak.
    1 point
  31. Jake's company is Flat Six Innovations, and has done all of the development work for M96/97 component's for LN Engineering , which is owned by Charles Navarro. Jake does complete engine rebuilds, from mild to wild, and only sells educational materials such as the DVD mentioned, as well as the only existing complete engine torque spec manuals in print, but Flat Six no longer sells any hardware, only complete engines. LN manufactures and sells all the hardware (Nickies cylinder liners, IMS retrofits, piston sets, etc.), and also sells Jakes torque manuals which are excellent reference sources. LN will also provide machine shop services such as installing all new Nickies cylinder liners.
    1 point
  32. Thank you, really appreciate your help! Sorry for the late update but I fixed it. Transmission shifts perfectly now. At first I could not find this green solenoid anywhere. A black one which is right next to it is totally similar to shift solenoid from another AISIN transmissions used in VW / Jetta. I bought it and tried in place of green one. Bad decision! Transmission was out of limp mode but shifted really badly, with big delays going to each gear. I finally found a whole assembled valvebody with all solenoids from broken transmission parting out, replaced both black and green from it to my transmission and everything is perfect! It shifts better then new. For the laughs, here lessons learned: - Transmission oil/filter change can be done in 30 minutes on jackstands on a driveway if you did it 3+ times lol - Substitution of solenoids for another part is bad idea - Most transmission filters that you can buy come from who knows where, despite proper markings. First new filter that just came in had a neck smaller (just tiny bit) then old one. And even with new rubber gasket wont seal properly with valvebody. Next, different source filter was perfect. - Schwaben brake bleeder / fluid pump is worth it's price in gold. Just get it if you want to fill transmission in minutes with no mess. Thank you so much everyone who helped, really appreciate it!!!
    1 point
  33. The correct test for the primary cables is voltage drop rather than resistance. No primary cable should show a drop of 0.5 V, if they do, they should be replaced regardless of what resistance testing shows.
    1 point
  34. From the Lost Radio Code FAQ... I get a WAIT on the display - what do I do? You have to wait at least 30 minutes before trying again.
    1 point
  35. I believe the single blue wire goes to the generator, and the plug with two wires goes to the sensor.
    1 point
  36. 1 point
  37. P1467 Radiator fans 2: Mechanical fault Possible fault causes: Radiator fans 2 stiff or blocked Radiator fans 2 Faulty
    1 point
  38. I designed a cup holder for use in a 996/986 with the ashtray delete mod. The files are available on Thingiverse (free). I also have files for the little plastic disks that cover the rear attachment points for the hardtop on a cabriolet, and seem to vanish every now and then. The cup holder is in two parts. The bottom screws into the existing holes in the ashtray delete, using the existing screws. The top part narrows the opening a bit so that a can or bottle won't move around. It's easily reversible - just remove the two screws, pull out the cup holder, replace the screws. Designs - About BillRVC - Thingiverse WWW.THINGIVERSE.COM
    1 point
  39. Listen to Loren. he is the expert. He was hinting that you might not need to replace the tensioner. It is a pretty intense job. You have to remove the air filter box, throttle body, loosen and remove the A/C compressor, The Power steering pump /fill reservoir and the Intake manifold cylindrical chambers that connect the 2 intake manifolds. You can remove the left intake manifold to give yourself more room, A lot of cables, air and coolant hoses are also in the way. Once you get to the tensioner and after you remove the pulley of the tensioner, you go around the back side to remove the arm and unbolt the old tensioner. To install the new one, is also a complex process that can end up messing up your mechanicals that are driven by the belt. The power steering pump alone is a nightmare to remove and its reservoir connects to a plastic hose that if you broke it, you will end up paying a fortune to replace. Pay a Porsche dealer not an Indy to do it. trust me. Taking a step back, why do you want to replace the tensioner? Use a Breaker bar to move the tensioner pulley easily. it makes it 90% easier to rotate clockwise. WITH THE BELT ON THE PULLEYS, If you can rotate the serpentine belt to 90 degrees from its normal position between the Alternator and the water pump then your tension is fine. Use Porsche belts. Spend your time AND MONEY on installing a 3rd radiator, it IS a better investment for your engine and your driving experience.
    1 point
  40. News to me... the only big confusing issue that I know of is the bad engine ground (splice) that caused all sorts of erroneous faults. But there was a TSB with instructions of how to fix that. Any combination of faults for the sensors listed may indicate this ground splice is broken or faulty. Mass air flow implausible (P0068) Intake Manifold pressure sensor (P0069, P0106, P0107, P0108, P1183, P1184) Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor faults (P0116_P0119, P050C, P3081, P3082) Radiator exit Coolant Temperature Sensor faults (P2183_P2186) System too Lean or too Rich (Bank 1 & Bank 2) (P0171_P0175) Oil pressure sensor faults (P0521_P0524) Oil Level sensor faults (P250C, P250D) Oil Temperature sensor faults (P0195, P0197, P0198, P0298) Boost pressure sensor (P1189, P1190, P1637, P1638, P1639) Camshaft position sensor 1 & 2 (P0341_P0349) Crankshaft position sensor (P0335, P0336, P0370_P0373) Engine Compartment temperature sensor (P1154_P1158)
    1 point
  41. I don't know where you got your price quote, but you can buy the Stant pressure tester (STA 12270) for $72.38 on Amazon, or $69.78 at ToolTopia. As for Porsche adaptors, there are two; 12016 will test the vehicle and sells for about $40; 12017 will test the cooling system cap, and sells for about $10. I have two of the Stant testers, and an entire case full of adaptors to fit just about anything, and I didn't pay anywhere near $500 for everything.......................
    1 point
  42. mjk: The following are from a late model 986, for reference. The set up should be the same, but you might double check: In this one, I drew in the orientation of the string over the plastic ear. . . Here's the real thing . . . . A view of how it is routed over the tubular part of the frame . . Overall view. . . Make sure that there is still some elasticity in the center elastic band so that it can maintain the proper tension to guide the tension cable into the guide channels. If it has lost all of its elasticity, you can replace it or patch in a short elastic band on each side (to which the looped strings attach). Regards, Maurice.
    1 point
  43. Here is the fix for code 0740 on Tiptronic. After refilling fluid (by the dealer the last time), the code would come back after 100 miles or so. The potential fix from Porsche was a new tansmission, around $7K. Before I spend that kind of money, did some research that lead me to the following for P0740 code: Since the fluid was changed, went to step 3. Here is the location of the pressure regulator and how to remove it. You have to drain the fluid and remove the ATF pan to get to this part, then it will be obvious. There are ATF filter change instuctions in the DIY that will help with additional detail. Part number is 986 352 603 00 I know, it is a Boxter part, but that is the part listed for the 996 too. $220 or so in my hands, easy install. The only difference I did notice post install was how much quicker the transmission will shift upwards. For example, 5th gear could come at 38mph, before the fix it was 48-50mph. Short of that, same smooth shifting. And a heck of a lot cheaper than a new tranny. Hope this saves others some $$ :drive: Izzy
    1 point
  44. 1. It depends on what is a lot of money to you. Part number 986.563.551.00+colour code - under $8.00 2. I'd advise you adjust the Hardtop, as no matter how hard the Germans or Finns tried, all cars will have flexed and 'settled' differently. If you have no leaks past the window seals when the soft top is up, use this as your datum and don't touch the windows at all. a) Take off the plastic covers from each side of the hardtop and loosen the five alen bolts each side so you can just move the spinlocks in both planes. b ) Open both doors and fully lower the windows, get your assistant to offer up the hardtop, clip in at the screen, make sure the spinlocks drop in, latch the top at the screen then make sure the top is sitting squarely on the car. c) Give each spinlock a 45° turn, then carefully using a 5mm drill as a spacer, have your assistant gently press down on the top to provide a 5mm gap between the metal of the top and the bodywork on both sides, tightening the alen bolts each side. The remaining 45° turn on the spinlocks will make the top 'snug'. d) Now have a look at the side window seals. On one side, gently pull the seal out of the aluminium channel - revealing the channel retaining screws. Loosen the screws enough to give some lateral movement of the channel. You will notice there is still a small strip of rubber on the outside of the channel - this forms the seal to the window. Now close the door and close the window, taking care that you and your assistant guide it into the slot with the small strip of rubber providing even pressure to the window. It doesn't require much, just even. e) Hold the channel in this position, reopen the window and tighten the screws, then start at one end of the rubber seal and push back into the alumium channel in small increments. Repeat for the other side window and your hardtop will be fitting and sealing perfectly.
    1 point
  45. 1. Pull seat belt rose cover up and off. 2. Undo fastening screw behind it (be careful not to drop it into the chassis). 3. Detach side-panel lining by unscrewing the hex bolt for the rear seat latch. Pull locking lugs of side-panel lining out of the clips in the rear side section and move forward enough to get at the back of the speaker. 4. Disconnect the loudspeaker electrical plug connection and disconnect. Remove panel.
    1 point
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