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Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 05/13/2020 in Posts

  1. You can get a set of small "ez out" hex bits, one of which should fit tightly into the bolt head while rotating counter clockwise, which will loosen the stripped fastener. Amazon and others sell them (Amazon screw/bolt extractor set)
    3 points
  2. The headlights look fine to me.... people obsessing over headlights and BS like that are what makes the 996TT still one of the best cars out there, pound-for-pound, dollar-for-dollar
    2 points
  3. The factory default for the valves is the loud position, so if they are not hooked up, that is what you get. The valves only move to the "quiet" position when activated. The original reason for the valves was the incredibly restrictive Swiss noise laws for residential neighborhoods, so when the vehicle was operating a low speeds, it was quiet.
    2 points
  4. Sometimes when there is a voltage spike to the system (like connecting a new battery) the programming can get "mixed up". When this happens the best thing to do is have a tech/shop with a PIWIS re-program the affected control module(s). I think it very rare to replace a DME if most everything but one or two items are not working.
    2 points
  5. All of the larger cables are susceptible to this problem. The longer the cable, like to the starter, the worse the problem because their length exacerbates the resistance issue, leading to larger voltage drops. The only real trick to checking each one with either a multimeter or Power Probe unit (Power Probes actually have a specific setting for checking voltage drops, plus the Power Probe's long leads back to the battery make the testing process easier).
    2 points
  6. Porsche "Book Time" to replace both front wheel bearings is 4.7 hours times your shops hourly rate. Porsche "Book Times" are usually a high estimate - an experienced tech can usually do the job in much less. So let the shop quote time - as long as it is under the "Book Time" you are likely good.
    2 points
  7. Looks like the part that goes inside the oil filter canister - to hold the filter in place. Just clean it and then push it back in.
    2 points
  8. Updated parts list (your's is 15 years old). 997.1 rear strut.pdf
    2 points
  9. First of all, LN Engineering's IMS Solution is a LOT more than just an oil feed line; the bearing insert is a solid bearing (no moving parts) with annular oil passages just like the almighty Mezger turbo engines used, the IMS shaft is plugged to prevent oil accumulation and the balance problems associated by running the shaft full of oil, the replacement rear IMS flange is coated with a Diamond like coating for strength and longevity, and the oil feed is sourced at the oil filter to get clean, cool oil rather than where some others have sourced it. Perhaps one of the biggest advantages of the
    2 points
  10. I would first check the one you have to make sure it is not blocked from air flow by debris.
    2 points
  11. Welcome to RennTech , and your English is fine, and much better than our Greek! It probably caused by oil pressure bleeding down from the hydraulic tensioner's in the VarioCam system, which do not cost that much, either in Euros or $.
    2 points
  12. Be aware the most dealer will not share the service records for the vehicle because they legally belong to the previous owner(s), and the dealers are uninclined to track them down and get a legal release.
    2 points
  13. I agree with millerchris85. After all the work and money poured into my CTT it’s eh now and I’d have been better served tuning up my 996TT. If you really must have a sporty drive in a Cayenne then I suggest looking after a 958 GTS, Turbo or Turbo S and having someone tuned them to your liking. Be forewarned though you will wear through ancillaries (brakes, axles, tensioners, etc...) much faster depending on how much and how hard you drive
    2 points
  14. A cooler on the return line from the rack to the pump will probably help.
    2 points
  15. Charge pressure sender Manifold pressure sender
    2 points
  16. A couple of days ago my head unit started cycling off and on every minute or so. I found some posts that these things are notorious for failing so I started looking for a place that would repair it. Luckily I found the Becker office in Saddle Brook NJ, called them, and they emailed me instructions how to fix it. Apparently my XM SAT provider caused the problem. It required a reboot as per below: WARNING It was brought to our attention, that the PCM 3.0 and 3.1 units have been rebooting continuously on a number of Porsche vehicles at the moment. It seems that a signal was s
    2 points
  17. You should not have to - unless you hooked up the new battery backwards. If the polarity was hooked up correctly then you need to start looking for poor grounds. Starting with the battery cable then chassis grounds.
    2 points
  18. Your stated voltage measurment is weak. You should be testing the primary cables, the large ones running from the battery to the ground and starter, these are the ones that tend to develop internal corrosion. If you are unfamiliar with this test, do a search as this has been covered several times previously. We always load test both the alternator and battery when there is a problem. While this requires a load tester, it verifies that both are capable of delivering both the correct voltage and current (amps) as required.
    2 points
  19. Adding to this with a couple others I found. Thanks again finally got the job done. 👍
    1 point
  20. what I contemplated doing was lifting up the bottom seat to expose the motors, then by splicing in some 12V and ground to make the motors move. But I never did it. I would contemplate doing it if the seat was way out of position. The seat control and memory module is #12. For that price not about to go through the contortions of getting the whole seat out. See diagram w/motors here Carrera Seat Adjuster Comfort Seat WWW.AUTOATLANTA.COM
    1 point
  21. If you are even considering that, that's because you don't really like the car and should sell it. To me. For cheap.
    1 point
  22. P0441 code is EVAP purge valve, alongside the drive side intake manifold tubes. P2281 Code is most likely an air leak between the MAF and the throttle body, the code generally means that the powertrain control module (PCM) has detected a degree of airflow at the mass airflow (MAF) sensor which does not exist at the throttle body.
    1 point
  23. Have had my 2009 911s for 9 years now and the PDK has been flawless. As with anything proper maintenance is key. Follow the services guidance and you will be fine. These transmissions are a lot better than they are made out to be ! Enjoy !!!
    1 point
  24. This is the valve that control the waste gate and it is sometimes called the N75. The parts catalog call it the cycle valve and the part# is 996 605 155 00
    1 point
  25. The inner temperature sensor is located on the right in the plenum panel (at the air inlet housing for air conditioning). 1. Unscrew fastening screws 1 and remove air inlet housing cover 2. 2. Turn inner temperature sensor clockwise arrow and remove it to the rear. 3. Disconnect connector 1 from the inner temperature sensor 2. Installation is performed in reverse order.
    1 point
  26. First off, cool post. Holy cow though, 600 Euros? I didn't realize the Bosch AGM was that much too, that's super expensive. I also just replaced my battery recently -- the original Varta AGM in my 2014 vehicle -- with an Optima Yellow-Top, which costs $250 USD and I was thinking that was pricey. You can get a DieHard Platinum AGM (apparently all the AGM's here are Johnson Controls anyway) here for about $175. The AGM batteries do last longer than conventional lead acid (with other cool benefits like no spill, vibration resistance, etc) and my 7 year old Varta probably could have made it l
    1 point
  27. The correct test for the primary cables is voltage drop rather than resistance. No primary cable should show a drop of 0.5 V, if they do, they should be replaced regardless of what resistance testing shows.
    1 point
  28. Jim Pasha has written an outstanding article in the October 2005 issue of Excellence Magazine. He discusses the overall reliability of 996/986 engines and what makes these engines some of the best Porsche has ever produced. We have added the 26 high resolution pictures showing the 996 engine internals. Thank you to Jim and Excellence magazine for allowing us to reproduce this. You can download the PDF version of the article here: Reliability_of_996_Engines_Excellence_Magazine_October_2005.pdf Members can view all 26 pictures - most not in the article. (You will need a browser tha
    1 point
  29. Just take the bulb out.
    1 point
  30. No idea on cost of getting piwis, only that, I believe, it can only be done at a $tealership.
    1 point
  31. This is a belated reply to document the resolution of my car's low voltage problem. Replacing the cable between the alternator and the starter entirely resolved the issue. As JFP correctly noted, apparently the cable I replaced had developed internal corrosion causing an increase in resistance. It's frustrating when a Porsche dealer tells you everything is okay when you know it isn't. Now having the requisite voltage flowing throughout the vehicle is a beautiful thing.
    1 point
  32. I apologize for being late to the party. I am running PS2s in 295/30-18 on my C2 Cab, lowered on B8s and H&R springs. No clearance issues. That said, I wouldn’t do it again. The 295 on a 10” wheel is a bit too much. I noticed the extra sidewall flex almost immediately when pushing the car on corner entry (yes, mine are N spec). I’ll definitely go back to 285 on next change. If you have 11” wheels, 295s should be great. You may not notice, but this was my experience.
    1 point
  33. Welcome to RennTech And congrats on the new (to you) Porsche. Probably one of the most detailed sources of information on this engine is Flat Six Innovations, which is Jake Raby's shop.
    1 point
  34. Ahh thank you so much I found it, 87.9. would have never thought to look at FM stations.
    1 point
  35. There is with the 06 Turbo, so probably with the S as well. I had it happen on an 06 at 125000 miles. Valve body replacement fixed it.
    1 point
  36. Hi there - moving from air cooled to a new to me 2002 white w/natural grey Interior. It’s mainly original with GT2 wheels size, offset, and tire sizes, fab speed exhaust, assuming an ECU tune of some sort (it hits .9 bar consistently), Billet diverter valves. For options it’s a tip, full carbon, full leather interior, three spoke wheel, dual electric seats, Bose sound system, and aero option. It’s got 44k miles and appears to have been well kept. I’ve had the wheels re-powder coated gloss gunmetal (from satin black), new tires (fronts were from 2006 :-)), and I’ve reconstructed the carbon dash
    1 point
  37. PET shows that up to 06-11-2016 the LEDs weren't handed, as PET shows one part number for both sides (7PP 919 238) which is now superceded to 7PP 919 238B. £6.06 GBP incl. VAT. I suspect the Touran part I listed is the same, as it just has a different number prefix.
    1 point
  38. I have a 2011 Cayenne S, and both front door security-led’s flash when the alarm is set. Hope this helps.
    1 point
  39. It's fun to see after nearly a decade my original procedure is still going strong...if not hard to find! Wish I had all those old school files presented in a way better! I miss my 986 and hope to be back in one in the near future...just hope I don't need to cut open the air box again!
    1 point
  40. I bought these off eBay about a month or two ago. I was impressed by the quality, fit, and price. FOR PORSCHE 911 996 SPEEDO GAUGE RINGS SURROUNDS SET OF 5 Brushed Matt Aluminium ROVER.EBAY.COM PORSCHE 911 996 SERIES (1998-2005) only - all models with the dashboard like shown on the photos only. Box contains: 5x ALUMINIUM DIAL GAUGE RINGS / SURROUNDS Sample Fitting Instructions. Material finish: Brus
    1 point
  41. Probably the axel flange seals going bad.
    1 point
  42. For what it's worth. I had similar symptoms with no codes. Disconnected both MAFS (it did then throw two codes) and the car ran fine. Cleaned both MAFS, reconnected and all was well. Cheers!
    1 point
  43. Ok, got the top working again tonight. The allen screw on the left is the one that pressurizes the pistons for the top. Make sure it's righty tighty all the way or the top isn't going to move. The allen screw in the black cone on the right has to do with the rear deck cover. Apparently, it can't be screwed too tight or that thing won't move, which was my problem. I'd unscrewed it thinking it was the one to manually release the top when my control unit died, but then realized it was the wrong screw and screwed it back in too tight. Tonight I loosened it up and suddenly the deck lid came back
    1 point
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