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Showing content with the highest reputation since 11/24/2019 in Posts

  1. All of the larger cables are susceptible to this problem. The longer the cable, like to the starter, the worse the problem because their length exacerbates the resistance issue, leading to larger voltage drops. The only real trick to checking each one with either a multimeter or Power Probe unit (Power Probes actually have a specific setting for checking voltage drops, plus the Power Probe's long leads back to the battery make the testing process easier).
    2 points
  2. Porsche "Book Time" to replace both front wheel bearings is 4.7 hours times your shops hourly rate. Porsche "Book Times" are usually a high estimate - an experienced tech can usually do the job in much less. So let the shop quote time - as long as it is under the "Book Time" you are likely good.
    2 points
  3. Looks like the part that goes inside the oil filter canister - to hold the filter in place. Just clean it and then push it back in.
    2 points
  4. Updated parts list (your's is 15 years old). 997.1 rear strut.pdf
    2 points
  5. First of all, LN Engineering's IMS Solution is a LOT more than just an oil feed line; the bearing insert is a solid bearing (no moving parts) with annular oil passages just like the almighty Mezger turbo engines used, the IMS shaft is plugged to prevent oil accumulation and the balance problems associated by running the shaft full of oil, the replacement rear IMS flange is coated with a Diamond like coating for strength and longevity, and the oil feed is sourced at the oil filter to get clean, cool oil rather than where some others have sourced it. Perhaps one of the biggest advantages of the
    2 points
  6. I would first check the one you have to make sure it is not blocked from air flow by debris.
    2 points
  7. Welcome to RennTech , and your English is fine, and much better than our Greek! It probably caused by oil pressure bleeding down from the hydraulic tensioner's in the VarioCam system, which do not cost that much, either in Euros or $.
    2 points
  8. Be aware the most dealer will not share the service records for the vehicle because they legally belong to the previous owner(s), and the dealers are uninclined to track them down and get a legal release.
    2 points
  9. A cooler on the return line from the rack to the pump will probably help.
    2 points
  10. Charge pressure sender Manifold pressure sender
    2 points
  11. A couple of days ago my head unit started cycling off and on every minute or so. I found some posts that these things are notorious for failing so I started looking for a place that would repair it. Luckily I found the Becker office in Saddle Brook NJ, called them, and they emailed me instructions how to fix it. Apparently my XM SAT provider caused the problem. It required a reboot as per below: WARNING It was brought to our attention, that the PCM 3.0 and 3.1 units have been rebooting continuously on a number of Porsche vehicles at the moment. It seems that a signal was s
    2 points
  12. OK, first of all, either twisting wires together and wrapping them with tape, or using wire nuts is totally unacceptable for automotive applications. Both are pathways to shorts and even fires. Wires should be reconnected with crimp connectors at a minimum, with soldering them and then using heat shrink tubing to cover the soldered joints the actual preferred method. Most likely, in the process of doing this swap, you disturbed something, but exactly what is hard to say, particularly as the previous owner used the twisted wire and tape wrap method of connecting things. It is ent
    2 points
  13. Hi guys, I bought my 1999 Porsche 911 C4 Tiptronic back in January and I've been doing little projects on it ever since. I used to have a 2016 Dodge Challenger R/T Scat Pack with a 6.4 liter V8 that I traded in last summer, but I was missing the sports car feeling too much so decided to buy the Porsche. One of the things that stood out to me on the test drive was just how sluggish and unresponsive the Tiptronic gearbox felt compared to the one I had in the Dodge. Since the rest of the car was in very good condition (invoices for every oil change & repair going back to 2003, IMS
    2 points
  14. You should not have to - unless you hooked up the new battery backwards. If the polarity was hooked up correctly then you need to start looking for poor grounds. Starting with the battery cable then chassis grounds.
    2 points
  15. Your stated voltage measurment is weak. You should be testing the primary cables, the large ones running from the battery to the ground and starter, these are the ones that tend to develop internal corrosion. If you are unfamiliar with this test, do a search as this has been covered several times previously. We always load test both the alternator and battery when there is a problem. While this requires a load tester, it verifies that both are capable of delivering both the correct voltage and current (amps) as required.
    2 points
  16. Thud could be centre bearing carrier for the rear cardon shaft. Whistle may be evident if your aircon servo flaps are closed. Try opening them by turning on the fan and having air flowing to the outlets.
    1 point
  17. Just received a breakout box with some leads to complete my set of 996 vintage tool ๐Ÿ˜‰ I've been using a PST2 since 2008 with a lot of success. Especially for friends that are looking to buy a use 996 turbo or simple troubleshooting and keys reprogramming.... But I never used a breakout box before and it is difficult to found information about how to use this tool especially on Porsche. Would like to test the internal voltmeter/ohmeter (URI) of the Bosch KTS500....OBDII pinout, 16 ports on the breakout box ? 6 leads, + ground (black) red and blue wires etc....Is there, somewhere, printed info t
    1 point
  18. Prayer ๐Ÿ™๐Ÿ™๐Ÿ™ Or a good independent
    1 point
  19. Yes. I think most on forum would agree. Right, Jeff? Like replacing the old sealed hydraulic chain tensioners with oil pressure tensioners. (Thatโ€™s for those of us who might have had an air-cooled 911.). I think LE calls it โ€œthe solution.โ€
    1 point
  20. Engine number is on the drivers side next to the oil sump pan...like this. You are correct. 2000 was a transition year for the IMSB from the dual row bearing to the smaller single row bearing. As far as I know, on a 2000, there is no way to know whether it has a dual row or single row bearing by using the engine number. If it were me, I would just plan on having the LN IMS Solution installed as soon as possible. No sense in pulling the bearing and replacing with another bearing that will need to replaced again in 36-40K miles.
    1 point
  21. I pulled up the carpets. Under the driver carpet I could see salt water deposits from the winter. There was a thick black line running from Terminal 15 that had a very corroded spice to three other large black lines. I ended up replacing about 2.5 feet of wire as the wire inside had turned black, I finally found shinny copper just under the dash. I then reset the car electrical -- removed the battery cables, connected them for 15 minutes they left them unconnected for 15 minutes. Next I reset the panoramic limits (turned it to the A position and tilted the dial for five seconds then held
    1 point
  22. Redo this, you have no idea what quality the other oil is, while the Porsche product is well known.
    1 point
  23. I'm pretty sure the 2" opening will be too small. Here are two pictures taken from the front, but without removing the panel, I can't verify. Let me know if you need me to do that.
    1 point
  24. Welcome to RennTech Most 2000 and many 2001 M96 engines were dual row engines, which created the problem that the only way to know which style was used was to pull the transmission, clutch, and flywheel and haves a peek. There is no other proven method to tell you which version was used during the 2000-2001 transition period. If the engine was replaced with a factory unit, it would carry the letters โ€œATโ€ on the engine number on the sump rail, and the number will reveal its year of assembly; all reman engines produced after 2004 carry the oversized non serviceable third design IMS
    1 point
  25. Welcome to RennTech If your DME (what you refer to as an ECU) actually got wet, most of the car would have been under water, so I would not be surprised things aren't working. I assume you are referring to the box under the seat, which is the alarm/immobilizer unit. If that is the case, remove the unit and rinse it out with isopropyl alcohol , which you can get at any grocery or pharmacy. Remove the small fuse on the unit and make sure it did not blow when it got wet. Use a hair dryer to dry out the unit, reassemble and you should be good to go.
    1 point
  26. It is a fire rated wire clamp holding in one direction only using a toothed surface, patented in 2001 and held by Gripple Ltd., and agricultural fencing and equipment company in Sheffield England. ๐Ÿ˜‰
    1 point
  27. Sorry for the delay, but the Virus has made things upside down everywhere around New York. Hope it's not too bad in Cleveland.:) I think I found some initial pics that can help you get started in solving the problem with your top... Here is a series of photos on my '97 Boxster when it still had the original "A Version", all metal housing transmissions. I think that if you put your clamshell manually to this exact position, and then duplicate the position of the V-levers and other parts, you will have an excellent starting point. Forgot to me
    1 point
  28. Because if you get oil (of any kind) on the O2 sensors - they are toast.
    1 point
  29. No, you can't switch them. Once the immobiliser code has been programmed into a KESSY/PAS control unit, it can't be over-written with a PIWIS tester. You might want to try an automotive electronics repairer, to see if they can write the immobiliser code directly to the eeprom. I have heard of that being done, but have no experience.
    1 point
  30. Have your friend look into Michelin Super Sports (I have these on my 991S) or the newer PS4s. Both great tires, and some are becoming "N" rated, though that's not exactly required.
    1 point
  31. Are you sure you don't have fuses mixed up? I'm currently on 1 pump in my CS with fuse 14 pulled and can hear the right side pump running/whinning when the car is on. I think Fuse #14 is for the driver side pump and #13 is the right pass side pump, but feel free to correct me If I'm wrong USA
    1 point
  32. The Boxster has 6 drains to check. They are black and look like little donuts or grommets. There are 2 in the front on either side of the battery and 4 in the back. Raise your clamshell and you will see one at the bottom on either side of the black plastic liner. Easily seen when you have the top part way open and there's also one on either side of the channel almost below the front tip of the clamshell by the door jam. Here is a link to Mike Focke's website with more info regarding Boxster drains. https://sites.google.com/site/mikefocke2/drainsdiagram
    1 point
  33. Because the Tip uses an oil to water cooler mounted on the side of the gearbox instead of running trans fluid lines all the way to the radiators, there is literally no way to use a power flushing system on them. So you are limited to draining 3-4 liters out when you drain the pan and swap out the filter. Doing multiple refills and dumps will help clean out a trans that has not been serviced properly for some time. Once you have got the system cleaned out, a better regimen would be to do at least an annual trans fluid dump (changing the filter every other year), so that you are constantly re
    1 point
  34. Here is what it cost me to have both fobs and keys replaced and programmed... Purchased 2 key blades cut for my car (keysinthepost.com) ~25.00 shipped 1 fob from ebay ~ 120.00 shipped 1 fob from dealer ~ 200.00 Dealer program 2 fobs - $65.00 List of IPAS codes for my car- FREE
    1 point
  35. The keys for these cars are a reoccurring theme: Expen$ive. They require a special (read expensive) tool to cut, which many locksmiths do not have. I am not aware of any aftermarket source for the blanks. The coding is an issue because it requires proprietary software (PIWIS) to accomplish. Unfortunately, for the most part, only the dealer network has access to all three components, which limits your options. You can try shopping around different dealers, they often vary widely on what they charge, but in the end you are probably going to have to pay more than you want to get it. Not th
    1 point
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