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Showing content with the highest reputation since 08/13/2019 in Posts

  1. 2 points
    Be aware the most dealer will not share the service records for the vehicle because they legally belong to the previous owner(s), and the dealers are uninclined to track them down and get a legal release.
  2. 2 points
    A cooler on the return line from the rack to the pump will probably help.
  3. 2 points
    Charge pressure sender Manifold pressure sender
  4. 2 points
  5. 2 points
    A couple of days ago my head unit started cycling off and on every minute or so. I found some posts that these things are notorious for failing so I started looking for a place that would repair it. Luckily I found the Becker office in Saddle Brook NJ, called them, and they emailed me instructions how to fix it. Apparently my XM SAT provider caused the problem. It required a reboot as per below: WARNING It was brought to our attention, that the PCM 3.0 and 3.1 units have been rebooting continuously on a number of Porsche vehicles at the moment. It seems that a signal was sent by SiriusXM which has caused this issue. SiriusXM and Porsche are investigating currently and are working on a fix. VERY Important: Please DO NOT replace any parts or hardware on a vehicle, due to this issue. In order to rectify this issue, you will perform a “PCM handover” (also known as a PCM Hard Reset). Instructions are listed below; Press and hold the PCM>>Info button for approximately 10 seconds until the PCM reboots. Immediately select the following from the PCM; CAR>>OPTION>>Set PCM System>>Reset PCM>>Vehicle Handover>>Yes>>Yes These instructions can also be found in the respective Owner’s Manuals for affected vehicles. Hopefully this may prevent Dealership / workshop visits. If your vehicle is already at the workshop, recommend that the technician update it to the latest available software level. **PLEASE NOTE: Performing a PCM Hard Reset will also erase all of the radio presets and Bluetooth connections and these will have to be reentered by you after the reset.** In order to rectify this issue, you will perform a “PCM handover” (also known as a PCM Hard Reset). Instructions are listed below; Press and hold the PCM>>Info button for approximately 10 seconds until the PCM reboots. Immediately select the following from the PCM; CAR>>OPTION>>Set PCM System>>Reset PCM>>Vehicle Handover>>Yes>>Yes WARNING Reboot for PCM 3.1.docx WARNING Reboot for PCM 3.1.pdf
  6. 2 points
    OK, first of all, either twisting wires together and wrapping them with tape, or using wire nuts is totally unacceptable for automotive applications. Both are pathways to shorts and even fires. Wires should be reconnected with crimp connectors at a minimum, with soldering them and then using heat shrink tubing to cover the soldered joints the actual preferred method. Most likely, in the process of doing this swap, you disturbed something, but exactly what is hard to say, particularly as the previous owner used the twisted wire and tape wrap method of connecting things. It is entirely possible that you may have pulled another such "MacGyver" like repair loose that is not related to the radio swap. Probably the best approach at this juncture is to get the vehicle scanned with a Porsche specific scan tool to see what the various communication modules are doing. Good luck with this one.
  7. 2 points
    Hi guys, I bought my 1999 Porsche 911 C4 Tiptronic back in January and I've been doing little projects on it ever since. I used to have a 2016 Dodge Challenger R/T Scat Pack with a 6.4 liter V8 that I traded in last summer, but I was missing the sports car feeling too much so decided to buy the Porsche. One of the things that stood out to me on the test drive was just how sluggish and unresponsive the Tiptronic gearbox felt compared to the one I had in the Dodge. Since the rest of the car was in very good condition (invoices for every oil change & repair going back to 2003, IMS bearing changed, etc.) I decided to buy it anyway, assuming I would get used to having to mash my foot into the carpet everytime I wanted the thing to move. Looking through this forum and others, I heard about the Sprint Booster and how it might help with this problem. For those of you that don't know what this is, it is a small plug that sits between the gas pedal and the cable harness running to the ECU and that changes the signal sent to the car from the position of the gas pedal. The factory set up makes it so that when you push the gas pedal, the revs rise very slowly for the first 50% of pedal travel. I think I read somewhere that halfway down, the pedal will only give you about 25% of the power. This means that in order to get the Tiptronic box to do a downward shift, you really REALLY have to mash the pedal and do it in a quick manner. In general it makes the whole car feel unresponsive and not at all like the free-revving, happy sports car I thought I was getting. The Sprint Booster module (which only works on cars with electronic throttle control or "e-gas" pedal) will take the gas pedal input and modulate it to reflect a more aggressive pedal action. The only thing that changes really is the voltage that is sent to the car's ECU, and how this is calculated in relationship to the position of the gas pedal. The unit comes with a little control gadget where you can set it to one of three basic settings - Factory (simple pass-through, nothing changes from stock), Sport (about a 30% more aggressive response), and Race (about 50% more aggressive). Within both Sport and Race you can then fine tune with an additional setting from 1-9 for each of the two categories. By default the device will put you in "5" or the middle ground. The device costs you about $300 and there is no discount to be had from any of your typical market places. I simply bought mine directly at the manufacturer's website. Since it was my birthday last week, I decided to treat myself and see if it might work. You have a 30-day money back guarantee and the install process is completely reversible, so I figured I'd give it a go. If it actually helps make my tiptronic feel peppy it will have been worth every penny. If not, I'll just return it. For the installation my first problem was figuring out if my particular car had an e-gas or electronic throttle system or not. Looking at the gas pedal I can see a cable running up the bulkhead so I wasn't feeling too optimistic. With the help of others on this forum, I learned that all 996's have e-gas except the 98-99 C2. I also popped the hood and looked at the throttle body itself. To be extra sure, I also asked the vendor to confirm that my particular model would work with the product. The manufacturer's website only shows MY 2000 and beyond as approved for installation, but they came back and confirmed that in fact the -99 C4 does have e-gas and so I could proceed with the purchase. 3-4 days later I get the box in the mail. It is a tiny little thing and doesn't appear to be much for the $300 I paid for it, but whatever. The installation manual shows pictures of the device being plugged into a port located somewhere on the gas pedal assembly itself. It is clearly the most common spot for most manufacturers to link the throttle to the ECU, but that's not the case in a Porsche 996. The gas pedal pulls on a cable and if you follow the cable up from the pedal, you'll see it attaching to a metal box conveniently located under the actual dashboard, and at an impossible angle for any human being to get to. In these cases I like to resort to child labor, so I bribed my 13-year old son to help me. By laying upside down in the driver's seat and sticking his head + one arm under the dashboard, he was able to get the device plugged in correctly in as little as 2 hours. I was basically reduced to cheer leader, and voice of reason to guide his efforts. We made use of my cell phone camera to try and figure out from the pictures how to disconnect the old plug and get the new Sprint Booster in place. The pictures attached to this post will show you how we figured it out: The entire installation process is done by touch and feel as you cannot see any of the components directly. I would recommend our approach of using a camera, talking about what we need to do next, and then use your fingers & imagination to figure out what it is that you are doing. We found it helpful to start with where the cable attaches to the box, then run your fingers over until you hit the little metal flange that sticks out with the white plastic butt underneath it. When you have your hand there you know that the plug itself is just above it. After the initial installation we immediately took the vehicle out for a ride. The gas pedal felt weird, and we had intermittent revving and a noticeable delay when pressing the pedal. I figured it was simply down to the device having to calibrate itself so we went for a ride. 20 minutes in we get a check engine light come on so we headed back to the garage. Ever the optimist, I simply disconnected the battery to reset the CEL and then went out for another drive. This second time it worked beautifully! The car felt like a different animal all together, and the gas response was crisp and immediate. Problem solved, or so I thought, and we called it a day. The second day I went for a drive and got not only a CEL but also the PSM and ABS warning lights. At this time I was ready to call it a day and send the device back since I don't want to have to deal with buggy electronics or stuff that I can't trust. Called up the son again to have him pull everything out and that's when he noticed that the OEM male connector at the end came lose by simply touching it. Turns out we hadn't been able to plug it in all the way until it latched onto the Sprint Booster module. I guess it is not manufactured to the same tight spec as the OEM stuff, and by a fraction of a millimeter the plug can't go in far enough to secure it with the latches. Using force and patience, we eventually managed to push it all the way in until we heard the very satisfying "click" of the plug latching onto the module. If I have to take it off again because it comes loose, I will certainly use a file to remove a bit of material on each latch and ensure that they lock into place without having to push too hard. Since this point I have driven the car 4-5 times and about 50 miles, driving it as I usually do and without holding back in any way. No CEL or other warning lights and the thing runs really well. Having tried the different settings, I have decided to leave it in Sport-5 which I think is a happy medium for a sporty feel without compromising the ability to drive smoothly when you want to. Race mode makes it more binary, and it is like mashing the pedal at every stop light. It might be fun on a track, but for everyday driving it is just too aggressive. In Sport-5 it'll pull away softly in 2nd gear like it did with the factory settings, but if you simply give the pedal a little shove it'll immediately downshift to 1st gear and take off with gusto. All in all I have to say that this was very much worth it. The car feels different - more sporty and responsive, just like you'd want a Porsche to feel like. I know this doesn't add any power to the engine but just by having the Tiptronic gearbox work more like a modern sports car it really changes everything. I'm now planning on driving it for the full 30-day money back period, and if I run into any issue I will post an update to this forum. Cheers, Magnus Update - April 22nd, 2020: I've now driven with the Sprint Booster for 6 weeks and I can honestly say that this was the best bang for the buck modification that I've done to my Porsche. I would rate my Alpine head unit & speaker system upgrade as the mod that I most appreciate, but that was $2,400 and this was only $300. Just be careful with the installation and count on it being a PITA...
  8. 2 points
    You should not have to - unless you hooked up the new battery backwards. If the polarity was hooked up correctly then you need to start looking for poor grounds. Starting with the battery cable then chassis grounds.
  9. 2 points
    Welcome to RennTech On cabriolets, the number 2 relay panel is mounted to the rear of the roll over protection frame. You need to put the top in the "service" position to gain access to it.
  10. 2 points
    Are you sure you don't have fuses mixed up? I'm currently on 1 pump in my CS with fuse 14 pulled and can hear the right side pump running/whinning when the car is on. I think Fuse #14 is for the driver side pump and #13 is the right pass side pump, but feel free to correct me If I'm wrong USA
  11. 1 point
  12. 1 point
    I may have found my solution. After looking at this PelicanParts tutorial on removing the driver's side door panel, it appears that the 16 pin female connector actually connects to a connector inside the door, and the 10 pin connector comes from a line inside the door to that mirror switch in the small panel at the top of the door. Here is a link to the Pelican tutorial: Porsche Cayenne Front Door Panel Removal | 2003-2008 | Pelican Parts DIY Maintenance Article WWW.PELICANPARTS.COM There are quite a few projects that reside behind your'front door panels. Figure out how to take them off the right way!
  13. 1 point
  14. 1 point
  15. 1 point
  16. 1 point
    Signs of a dying crank position sensor, they get heat soaked and quit, come back to life when cooled off.
  17. 1 point
    Because if you get oil (of any kind) on the O2 sensors - they are toast.
  18. 1 point
    Yup, reactivate (assuming is it salvageable) and re calibrate the module in question.
  19. 1 point
    We have a member here that has a 996 with a small block Chevy in it, he summed up the experience by saying he would not do it again...……………...
  20. 1 point
  21. 1 point
  22. 1 point
  23. 1 point
  24. 1 point
  25. 1 point
    Pelican is infamous for publishing questionable maintenance procedures, just look at their IMS procedures, which resulted in more screwed up engines than you can imagine. I did this for a living; drop the engine down a couple of inches and you will be done with the AOS in one hour. Pull the intake off and you will have hours of reinstalling, followed by hours more of smoke testing to find the vacuum leaks. View simply is not worth the climb.
  26. 1 point
  27. 1 point
    Yes Dennis, my car will do the same thing unless you put it in launch control. There is always a slight hesitation from a dead stop. Unfortunately the car is geared so tall that driving it like a 911 should be driven will put you in jail. But, never leave the car in default mode. As soon as you start up put in sport mode or drive it manually. The default mode is silliness to keep the mileage numbers down and runs the engine way below where it is happy. What I have learned with my TT S is that there is such a thing as a car being too powerful. In many ways my 2006 manual C4S is more fun to drive. I am considering going for a 992 GTS if it comes with a manual.
  28. 1 point
    Probably the battery vent tube. They often get forgotten about when batteries are changed.
  29. 1 point
  30. 1 point
  31. 1 point
    Welcome to RennTech! Beautiful looking car...….good luck with it.
  32. 1 point
    There is a vacuum line to the brake booster right behind the firewall. Have you checked that? Might be a bad seal or something. See #10 here Brake Master Cylinder Brake Booster Pre-charge Pump WWW.AUTOATLANTA.COM
  33. 1 point
    These cars (specifically Cayenne) seem very sensitive to weak a battery and poor grounds. Whenever I see multiple electrical issues on a Cayenne - that is where I start.
  34. 1 point
    I buy all my single use or very low use tools from Harbor Freight.
  35. 1 point
    I haven't tried the Autel scan tool so not sure how accurate it is. It would be nice if you could recheck everything with a Durametric. Assuming the Autel readings are correct, your bank 1 cam deviation is not in spec and should be corrected. You may want to replace the bank 1 chain tensioner and retime bank 1. The bank 2 cam behavior sounds suspicious. Could be the variocam actuator problem (sticky). Would be nice to check with Durametric to confirm before digging in further.
  36. 1 point
    Product ID : 1056 327 173 01 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  37. 1 point
  38. 1 point
    Cs can be done without engine removed
  39. 1 point
    Very happy with my 996. Original IMS and still running at 110k miles.
  40. 1 point
    I have an OBD II reader from Auto Zone for $100 that will cancel a water temp gauge failure, but will not cancel/erace an airbag code. My water temp gauge failure is due to the Porsche computer doesn't recognize my LS3 motor. I also have the Durametric program which does it all. More expensive and you need a PC laptop. I bought an 11" Lenovo laptop for $119 from Best Buys that will run the Durametric program. If you plan on keeping the Porsche as I assume you do, then I would consider purchasing the Durametric program. The point is if you go with a cheapie OBD reader you need to be sure what it will and will not do... Are there any considerations as to running the car without functioning CATS?
  41. 1 point
    Ok guys, now that this seems sorted out. In my case the problem was a faulty air change-over valve. Since I was at it I also changed the electric change-over valve. I thought I'd post an entire post-mortem on the whole incident. This way future reader can get all the info in one spot. In short, no horror stories but a lot learnt. A Huge thanks to Loren, 1999Porsche911 and tholyoak for helping me thru this. Guys, I'm going to be quoting you in the writeup below, hope you guys don't mind. If people want to read the original message and the whole thread, its below. Background ============= I got the P0410 ("Secondary Air Injection Malfunction") and P1411 ("Manufacturer Control Auxillary Emission Control") along with a Check Engine Light (CEL). What is means =============== During a cold start the catalytic convertors don't work very efficiently because they are cold. To compensate for this there is an air pump which adds air to the exhaust gases so the cat's behaviour can be somewhat compensated for. If you get this error that additional air isin't being mixed with the exhaust gases. No vehicular damage (CEL shouldn't be blinking!) but your emissions care higher during every cold start. What to do next (if you plan on fixing it yourself) ================================ 1) Observe the connection below 1 - Secondary air injection pump 2 - Air change-over valve 3 - Electric change-over valve 4 - Non-return valve 5 - To the cylinder heads 6 - Vacuum reservoir 7 - To the intake air system Basically 1 pumps the air thru 2->4->5 and reaches the exhaust gases. The computer controls when to start the blower and also when to connect the air link by controlling #3. When #3 is "ON", the vacuum line is connected to #2 which turns #2 "ON". Then #2 will connect the air blowing from one pipe thru to the other pipe. You should check every component in that chain starting from the easiest to check to the most difficult. 1. Check Air injection pump (#1, ~$430) ============================ - Do a cold start, the secondary air pump should run at least 30 sec (or more). - Sounds like a small vacuum cleaner/touch it to feelt it hum/pull off the larger hose to feel it blow air - If the pump "fails", here are the reasons : A.) "Check the electrical connections and fuse (40A fuse on the relay board next to the DME), and the relay (position 10 on the same board)." - Loren. B.) If the fuse seems ok its possible the pump is dead (you did test this with the car cold - cold start , right ?). TIP: Before buying a new pump ($$$) you could take it to a porsche dealership and have him quickly/freely verify this for you. If your air pump works, then you need to check #2 and #3. Both of these are deep inside the engine bay. You MUST remove the alternator before proceeding. Please read that thread on alternator removal - you will save several hours of frustration and sore fingers if you read before you work ! Once you remove the alternator (aka generator) you should see this ... its basically the same system shown in the black/white diagram above but this is how it looks in real life. NOTE-1 : Please note the existing connections on the tubes before you rip everything out. A camera/camera phone comes handy. NOTE-2: For the steps below, make sure you DON'T let the tubes/pipes slide away into the inaccessible areas of the engine bay - they are a HUGE pain to bring back if they slip away (unlikely-but you're warned!) NOTE-3: Finally, if you've opened the whole thing till here, I'd suggest you test both #2 and #3 to be sure you catch every failed part in that system. I simply replaced both with new parts even thought only #2 was bad in my case - #3 was just another $20 ! 2. Air change-over valve (~$80) ====================== - Note existing connections - Use nose pliers and slide the ring-clamps away from the valve onto the respective rubber hoses. - Take the little pipe off - Remove the valve piece out of the engine bay -> clean it with some alcohol wipe (don't drench it in any weird clearer/liquid - you're just sanitizing this for the next step). - Wash and clean your hands (Yes!) - Suck air out of the little pipe and quickly put your finger on it (to maintain its low pressure). If this is tough, ask your significant other (chances are they'll go "eeeeks"). - If you find you cannot maintain a low pressure on the little pipe (i.e. it feels 'open' when you suck out the air) then your valve is bad. - This low pressure should open the valve and you should be able to blow from one pipe (coming from the air blower) thru to the other. - If you cannot blow thru and are sure the low pressure is maintained, you again have a bad valve. 3. Check the Electric change-over valve (~$20) ================================= These are triggered off a 12 V supply. The valve has (+) and (-) markings for polarity of the electric connector. I quickly rigged up a 12 V supply by cascading a 9V battery with 2x 1.5 v batteries, some duct tape and some wiretags/wires. If your physics is rusty, this is the connection figure. (-A)---(-)[9 volts](+)--(-)[1.5volts](+)--(-)[1.5volts](+)--(B+) Between (-A) and (B+) you have 12 volts ! - make a note of existing connections - remove the valve from the engine bay - Connect the wires coming out from A and B to the electric change over valve's connection - If you've got a working valve, you will hear a click sound when the valve triggers. - Now, also blow from one pipe (after wiping it with an alcohol wipe!). - you will be able to blow thru/NOT blow thru as the valve opens/closes as you connect/disconnect the 12v supply wires. TIP: Check #2 also and if ONLY your electric valve(#3) is faulty, you could test the "FALSE HIT - valve from another system" valve similarly. If this "FALSE HIT..." valve works, you could swap it with #3, reassemble the car and drive ! The benefit ? The "FALSE HIT..." valve is accessible without _ANY_ disassembly and you can replace it some other day under 5 minutes when your replacement valve arrives. Also, no harm if the car is driven for the time being with that valve being faulty. Hope this helps ! Cheers! Sid -----<original post below> -------------------- Well, I got a CEL last night. So I stopped by Autozone and borrowed their OBD2 and got the following ... 1) P0410 : "Secondary Air Injection Malfunction" 2) P1411 : "Manufacturer Control. Auxillary Emission Control" My car = MY99 996 C2, North America. I saw some other posts on P0410 and today morning checked the air pump on the left side/driver side of the engine compartment near the tail lights. It seems to be working in that I could hear it buzz like a mini-vac. Not sure exactly part was making that sound, I also touched it to feel it vibrate (just like an electric motor should). I quickly glanced to see if the rubber hose on the pumps lower-back-right end was still connected and visually it looked ok. I'll have another closer look later (was behind schedule this morning!). Do you guys have any good pointers on what next I should do ? FYI, I have modified my stock exhausts with a regular bypass pipe, fabricated along the lines of the PSE version2. It sounds great and there hasn't been a change in the exhaust note since then till now/CEL coming on. I don't think its related but I thought I'd mention anything exhaust in this post. Thanks in advance guys ! Sid PS: I just got my customised plate .... SIDS 911 :D ... (actually SID5 911)
  42. 1 point
    Hi I ordered a PIWIS 2 kit a couple of weeks ago. I finally got round today to connecting it to car and having a play around for the first time and familiarising myself with the menus and functions. Ran through all the headings 1. Fault Memory 2. Actual Values input signals 3. Drive Links checks 4. Coding Adaptations 5. Maintenance repairs and 6. Programming. And then I made a mistake, I was about to finish and out of curiosity I on the programming menu I selected Auto programming and ran it. It starting running but then the installation aborted. The cars modules seemed to have decoded itself. The electric rear spoiler retracted and what I can assume is the cooling fans are constantly on when the car ignition or engine is switched on. I’ve rerun the scan but cannot see any modules on the car and I seem to have accidently wiped the modules. I have spent the remainder of today going through every single menu/option on the PIWIS to try and recode but have had not success in recoding/programming the modules back (I don’t even have a working instrument cluster although the car engine starts and drives) Does anyone have any advice on how I rectify this? I have a 2009 997.2
  43. 1 point
    You're going to need a couple "special tools." Here's the guide: http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=5&ved=0CDcQFjAE&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.knclub.ru%2Ff%2Fattachments%2F16347d1282685305-korobka.pdf&ei=VsqrVIa-A4qjyQTR8IKgAw&usg=AFQjCNGYmGnvteF2LXeOAxlaYgiCrNbBww&sig2=W4Q2zCEAtoCJbnXAMQ2PKw&bvm=bv.82001339,d.aWw Cheers!
  44. 1 point
    The Boxster has 6 drains to check. They are black and look like little donuts or grommets. There are 2 in the front on either side of the battery and 4 in the back. Raise your clamshell and you will see one at the bottom on either side of the black plastic liner. Easily seen when you have the top part way open and there's also one on either side of the channel almost below the front tip of the clamshell by the door jam. Here is a link to Mike Focke's website with more info regarding Boxster drains. https://sites.google.com/site/mikefocke2/drainsdiagram
  45. 1 point
    Here is what it cost me to have both fobs and keys replaced and programmed... Purchased 2 key blades cut for my car (keysinthepost.com) ~25.00 shipped 1 fob from ebay ~ 120.00 shipped 1 fob from dealer ~ 200.00 Dealer program 2 fobs - $65.00 List of IPAS codes for my car- FREE
  46. 1 point
    Have recently completed adjustments on clutch cable as well as on the foot pedal. Gears had improved, but suddenly yesterday, I had a great deal of difficulty in lining up 1st and 2nd gear. It was as though they weren't there. No problem finding 3rd / 4th and 5th and Reverse. Initially I thought that the shift coupling between the rear seats had slipped, but it was still tight. I followed the instructions on how to Improve Shifting off the Pelican Site (same as in my Bentley Manual), by loosening the clamp, rotating the coupler counter-clockwise looking to the rear of the car, and the shifter left in line with 1st & 2nd gear, so it is "pre-loaded?" I then tightened the clamp once again, but then 5th and Reverse wouldn't engage. After several attempts I've found a balance, but reverse and 5th remain difficult if I don't go through several other gears first. Could this be the bushings that are worn out also causing this, or perhaps I'm not adjusting it properly? Any ideas would be appreciated. Have also order a short-shifter and new bushing set just in case from Pelican.
  47. 1 point
    Ive just done this mod now, took me about 10 mins, i earthed mine to the center console bracket. works a treat and still drops the windows when you unlock the top cant fault it, dont think i would use it anything over crawling speed for fear of damage, but i think like some others, its a bit OTT for the hanndbrake and stopped settings
  48. 1 point
    My 1999 Boxster just turned 160,000 miles on Saturday while driving over the Continental Divide at the Eisenhower Tunnel/I-70 .... coming back from a bicycle tour near Aspen [see pic of custom bike rack I designed/built for the car; even tilts back for trunk access ... and still gets 34 MPG even in the mountains!!]; bought the car from the original owner 2 years ago with 152,000 on the odometer [complete with ALL repair/service receipts]~~~~~~ the engine was changed out under 'warranty' by Porsche at 98,000 miles AT NO COST...... added a set of SS Headers over the winter; did the conversion for OBComputer readout; turn signal mods; installed a short-shifter kit [off ebay]; installed an Optima battery [after the OEM / original battery died after not driving it for a month last winter...]... I also have a 1977 911 steel Slantnose conversion with 157,000 miles on it! engine was prof. rebuilt at 90k w/all correct mods/updates done;tranny rebuilt 5 yrs ago [owned now for 16 yrs since first 2 owners]..... BOTH running STONG!!! what a pair to have to drive daily here in COLORADO!!!
  49. 1 point
    Yes, the Tip in the 3.6 liter Carrera is the same as the TT.
  50. 1 point
    Ok here we go: vehicle: Porsche Cayenne S 2004 (Halogen Headlights - No Air Suspenssions - No Headlights washers) Factory halogens headlight part no. bi-xenon headlight part no. Before start i have to remove the orange look of the headlight... Done! Things you need to know... you DON`T need the bixenon wire harness (part no. 955 631 239 10) to make the bixenon headlights work. I re-wire the internal of the bi-xenon headlight. * The only diference are: 1) bi-xenon have an extra light called (cornering) i tap this to the xenon wires, every time the xenons turn on both cornerin lights goes on. ALSO this prevent the computer detect a problem whit the low bean xenon ballast. 2) I tap the bi-xenon shuttle whit the auxiliary high beam lights, if i don`t have the xenons on and i flash the high beams, only the auxiliary and the shuttle goes on, NOT the xenon. there is a resistor in the shuttle that you can remove (more details next...) * Start 1) Take out both headlights (Please see manual for more info) 2) Take the 3 covers out 3) Remove the Autoleveling motor (remove the 3 pin harness and two bolts) from the Halogen headlight 4) You have to take out the Pin conector, to do this insert a plastic (Use an old Credit card, cut it in two and then resize it to 3cm wide) insert the plastic at the top and bottom inside the housing make sure it reach the end and then pull out the connector (This is a pain in the a..) 5) Once the connector is out start to cut each terminar as long as you can, NOTE: don`t cut the 3 pin connector in this harness you will use this whit the autoleveling motor in the bi-xenon headlight. in the end you will have this: 6) Say bye bye to the halogen headlight... don`t be panic now... 7) Remove the 3 covers in the bi-xenon headlights 8) Now remove the Autoleving motor (remove the 5 pin harness and two bolts), then install the 3 pin Autoleveling motor Side by side (Left Halogen 3 pin, Right bi-xenon 5 pin)
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