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Showing content with the highest reputation since 04/26/2020 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    OK, first of all, either twisting wires together and wrapping them with tape, or using wire nuts is totally unacceptable for automotive applications. Both are pathways to shorts and even fires. Wires should be reconnected with crimp connectors at a minimum, with soldering them and then using heat shrink tubing to cover the soldered joints the actual preferred method. Most likely, in the process of doing this swap, you disturbed something, but exactly what is hard to say, particularly as the previous owner used the twisted wire and tape wrap method of connecting things. It is entirely possible that you may have pulled another such "MacGyver" like repair loose that is not related to the radio swap. Probably the best approach at this juncture is to get the vehicle scanned with a Porsche specific scan tool to see what the various communication modules are doing. Good luck with this one.
  2. 1 point
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  4. 1 point
    Auto's en lichte commerciële voertuigen AFTERMARKET.ZF.COM Personenauto's This is the catalog of the transmission manufacturer, country and language can be changed if necessary.
  5. 1 point
    Not unusual, it is located near the power steering pump reservoir, and the dust can collect vapor from the pump, which can get quite hot when running.
  6. 1 point
  7. 1 point
    Thank you for updating and information.
  8. 1 point
  9. 1 point
    Sorry for the delay, but the Virus has made things upside down everywhere around New York. Hope it's not too bad in Cleveland.:) I think I found some initial pics that can help you get started in solving the problem with your top... Here is a series of photos on my '97 Boxster when it still had the original "A Version", all metal housing transmissions. I think that if you put your clamshell manually to this exact position, and then duplicate the position of the V-levers and other parts, you will have an excellent starting point. Forgot to mention what the red arrow and the yellow arrow are pointing to in the last photo posted(367.38 kB)..Red is pointing to the "fat washer" under the 10mm bolt which in turn holds down the small flat bushing/sleeve (Yellow arrow pointing to joint) that keeps the overall length of the pushrod in its set position. Of course that has a major effect on the position/attitude that the leading edge of the convertible top will have when it is in its pre-latching (or immediately post-latching) position. A relatively tiny difference in overall length will also have a relatively drastic effect on whether that "final" position ends up correctly aligned or whether the leading edge of the top goes past its forwardmost position and then starts to retract...then making it impossible to latch the top securely. To achieve a finer adjustment, don't loosen the 10mm with fat washer, use each 360 degree turn or rotation of the plastic ball cup on the forward end of the pushrod to change the overall length of the pushrod. Let me know if that works, otherwise I can look for some more. Regards, Maurice.
  10. 1 point
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  13. 1 point
    Just to let you all know, you were right. I needed a different diagnostic tool to recalibrate the steering angle sensor. I ended up using an autel system which I can reccomend thoroughly! Many thanks.
  14. 1 point
    Good info. Thanks. I was able to find a recently salvaged 996 with 23000 miles for $7000... I’m going to roll the dice. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  15. 1 point
    I finished a full cylinder replacement using LN Engineering Nickies 3.8 L kit last year that cost $6k in parts and machine services. I did the assembly work. It was a great education in 996 mechanics and special tools. Definitely not for the faint of heart! Looking back I should have done the heads at the same time so that I could call it a full rebuild. It took about 3 months total. Keith 2003 996
  16. 1 point
    Signs of a dying crank position sensor, they get heat soaked and quit, come back to life when cooled off.
  17. 1 point
  18. 1 point
    I believe that I may have the photograph(s) that you are looking for but I have to find the old thumb drive where I had originally been storing them before discarding the excess files. When I get back to my office I will search and post what I find. Just to verify, by "Original All Metal Transmissions", you are referring to the "A Version" transmissions that used the original B-Pillar microswitch as a method to sense the position of the descending convertible top frame member (and, at the same time had the smooth surfaced drive cables (i.e., NOT the cross-hatched, less prone-to-stretch cables). Regardless, I will post photos ASAP. Regards, Maurice.
  19. 1 point
    View this tutorial 955/957 rear seat latch replacement I believe it's a fairly common issue, but granted that I've only been around these Cayennes for a short while. Failure modes: 1-Unable to release latch to tilt seat-back forward, failure to unlatch. 2-Seat latch fails to secure seat-back in the upright position, failure to latch For me, I was running into failure mode #2. When pushing the seat-back up it would not latch no matter how hard I tried. I sourced a new-used replacement from ebay. The parts between 955 and 957 are interchangeable. Unsure about 958. Tools required: -torx bit/driver/key, T20 I believe, or T25 -triple square bit, I forget the size but can update later -wrench that fits triple square bit, I used a ratchet with a 13mm socket Step 1: Remove two torx screws, T20 I believe. The first screw is partially hidden by the latch lever, pivot the lever and remove the screw. The second screw is installed from the side, in the opening of the plastic latch cover. The plastic on my cover had cracked around where the screw was inserted, so it is shown here after removal. The entire plastic cover assembly is now free and is removed by sliding up along the same axis as the first screw. If you are experiencing failure mode 1, at this point you should inspect your plastic cover assembly. It is possible that three tabs on the lever can break off as shown here. If this is the case, you simply need to replace that part and not the entire latch. The latch assembly is held on by two triple-square screws which are visible once the plastic cover is removed. Remove these screws and the latch will be come loose. Then there is a plastic clip that holds the upholstery to an edge of the latch, shown front and center in this photo, that simply pulls off. The latch, removed from the seat back. Here is the top of the latch, this cup with the three slots corresponds to the latch handle that should have three tabs. Another option for failure mode #1 is that the latch itself had a broken component, there is a 2-prong fork that should cover the front and back side of this post, as you can see the rear prong is broken off. That post is connected to the cup, which the lever is assembled to. So when you pull back on the lever to release the seat back, it turns the cup, and rotates the post against the fork, which releases the latch. In my circumstance it seems as if it was a 2-part problem. My fork was broken, but when I purchased the truck my problem was failure mode #2, not being able to latch it. My theory is that the broken part of the fork lodged itself into the latch and prevented it from securing properly. Next, reassemble with new or used parts that are not broken. It's pretty self explanatory here with the exception of lining up the plastic cover/lever assembly. You need to pull the lever as if you were disengaging the latch, and then feed the plastic cover assembly down ensuring that the round 3-prong section aligns with the 3-slot cup. I have heard that there is some adjustment you can do with the post that this latch connects to, the post mounted into the chassis itself. Adjustment here, if it does exist, would move it slightly so that the latch would travel further over the post and enable it to latch. Upon testing my new latch worked fine so I didn't explore this option. Finally, you want to keep that latch working well. From now on when you want to release the seat-back, first push the seat-back back and then while holding it pull the lever to release. This puts far less strain on the release mechanism and will prolong it's life. Author optimusglen Category Cayenne (9PA, 9PA1) - Common Fixes and Repairs Submitted 11/15/2018 10:46 AM  
  20. 1 point
    DIY tutorial to remove center console and replace stock shifter with a Numeric shifter. I completed this modification on my 2010 C4S. Center Console Removal and Shifter Replacement.pdf
  21. 1 point
    The window on my 99 Boxster was crunching and grinding, as the regulator cable shredded itself. Took the regulator apart to see how it works, and saw that every part of the regulator was fine, except the cable. I trimmed the frayed ends and put it all back in, and it works fine, for now, but I should replace it, as the cable is at 2/3rds strength and more prone to shredding if I missed a strand here or there. Shame to spend $270-$300 for a new regulator to replace a $20 or $30 cable, and I'm reluctant to buy a used one online... Waiting to see if Woody on the 986 forum has a good used one for me. I see just now there is a cable replacement in the UK for $50+US... Can anybody explain what these cotter pins are about, next tot he motor? Can you pull them out, one by one, to adjust the tension as the cable stretches? Just guessing...
  22. 1 point
    Have your friend look into Michelin Super Sports (I have these on my 991S) or the newer PS4s. Both great tires, and some are becoming "N" rated, though that's not exactly required.
  23. 1 point
    Greetings to 981 Forum members. (This posting is revised to correct the year and model of my friends Boxster GTS.)(and again to note car is a 981.) I have a friend who went to Germany and came home with a 2015 Boxster GTS. He has asked me about new tires and I could only tell him about my adventures with my 911SC and 996 C4S. What is the current thought re putting new tires on the Boxster? Anyone? Anyone? Does anyone have a positive, or for that matter a negative opinion, on replacement tires. My friend intends to put on 4 tires and I've advised him not to mix and match manufacturers. I run Michelin PS2's, N3, on my C4S and like them way better than any others. Cheers to all...
  24. 1 point
    Note: Part numbers sometimes change without notice. Always double check with your supplier that you have the latest part numbers. (Special thanks to Chuck Jones for being the guinea pig and for taking the photos.) Parts you will need: 997.624.113.00 Actuator Tools you will need: Very short Torx T20 driver and right angle ratchet or tool to use the short T20 in a very confined space Regular screwdriver, phillips screw driver, and 10 mm wrench to remove th wheel well liner 1. Jack the car so that right front wheel is off the ground and secure it with a jack stand. Remove the right front wheel. 2. Remove the wheel well liner by removing the the plastics rivets (pry them out with a regular screwdriver). As well remove the 10 mm nuts on each side of the axle. Now remove the phillips screws that fasten the wheel well liner under the front bumper and remove the wheel well liner (and set aside). 3. Locate the EVAP canister and remove the electrical connection at the top of the canister. Now remove the 10 mm nut that holds the canister in place. Remove gas the vapor lines - one at the top and one at the bottom (again by squeezing the connectors). Remove the EVAP canister by pulling gently back and forth until it releases from the rubber gromments 4. Look back up under the fender (now that the canister is out of the way) and locate the broken actuator. Now using the stubby Torx T-20 loose (but do not remove) the two T-20 screws. The actuator itself is a bit tough to get to and you will need a really short T-20 Torx head to loosen the two screws. I say loosen because that is all you need to do to remove the part - it sits in two "U" shaped slots. Remove the electrical connector (by squeezing the tab). Here is a pic of the new part - as you see the Torx screws are already in place so that is all you have to do to replace it. 5. Put the new part in place making sure you feed the emergency pull line through the fender to its location in the door jam. There is room to slide it through the side so you don't need to try and thread it through the hole. Fasten the two Torx screws and reconnect the electrical connector. Chuck's car had the guide rose guide piece missing (so he needed to order one) Here is a pic of his car (without guide rose) and my car (with guide rose). Ref. P/N 997.624.505.00 We also noticed that on his car the plastic catch for the lock was missing (so he needed to order that too). Here is a pic of his car (without cap) and my car (with cap). Ref. P/N 996.201.243.00 6. Reinstall the EVAP canister by pushing it into place on the rubber gromments. Then reattach the vapor lines (they should snap back into place) and the electrical connection. Finally put the 10 mm nut back in place and tighten down. 7. Reinstall the wheel well liner (reverse of removal). 8. Mount the tire, lower the car and re-torque the wheel bolts. Done.
  25. 1 point
    I have the complete factory instructions in pdf format for this from PIWIS. PM me & I'll send them. I retrofitted the entire system no worries from these instructions including factory wiring/switch/dealer coding. The wiring (not the switch replacement) & getting to the boxster engine/installing the vacuum lines is the hardest part. Exhaust bolt in is simple. I wanted the whole factory deal.
  26. 1 point
    The Boxster has 6 drains to check. They are black and look like little donuts or grommets. There are 2 in the front on either side of the battery and 4 in the back. Raise your clamshell and you will see one at the bottom on either side of the black plastic liner. Easily seen when you have the top part way open and there's also one on either side of the channel almost below the front tip of the clamshell by the door jam. Here is a link to Mike Focke's website with more info regarding Boxster drains. https://sites.google.com/site/mikefocke2/drainsdiagram
  27. 1 point
    Opinions on this combination? I am especially concerned the guards red belts might be just enough different from the somewhat burgundy top to "clash".
  28. 1 point
  29. 1 point
    As for additional information on the PCM, there 'might' be a few things, it will allow for the USB connection as already know but in addition to this the display will show and allow the section of the audio files on the USB making song selection a bit more user friendly. The other thing that has been alluded to but not confirmed is the ability to laod MP3's onto the PCM's hard drive for play back when no auxilary device is attached. The reason I said 'alluded to' is that it is appearently mentioned in the later version of the PCM manual but now one that I know has confirmed this actually works or is a feature that will be coming with a subsequent release of PCM firmware. Of course there may also be additional things to access on the PCM like log data for trips if other options are chosen, the complete integration of Blue Tooth musical stream may or may not depend on the PCM option as well. The stock sound sysytem can be described as adaquet, the ability of that system while the top is up should be fine, but with the top down may be a bit taxed to provide some reasonable sound enjoyment. I know that this may not be a concern to some, but coming from my 2006 and the base audio system, I know that when the top goes down the radio went off, it just couldn't keep up! So the Bose options was 'checked'. So PCM, in the end it was a tough decision to make, expensive too, but I decided there was enough tangible and possible uses and abilities that the PCM would provide that made checking yet another option box 'necessary'. ;) Besides, although you can add this later given the upgrade cost and hassle you probably won't. So I am in... on both.
  30. 1 point
    991-631-155-02 Direction Indicator Light (left) -- US MSRP $32.74 991-631-156-02 Direction Indicator Light (right) -- US MSRP $32.74 Your bulb should already be white so just change out the lens/socket assembly.
  31. 1 point
    When you posted with this problem before, I suggested that you check to ensure that the time adjustment knob wasn't stuck IN. I can replicate your problem by manually pushing and holding the adjustment knob IN when I turn off the ignition and pull the key out of the switch. I only repeat this suggestion to ensure the knob isn't stuck IN because I didn't see, in your previous post, a response to the suggestion. BTW, either adjustment knob will, if pushed in, illuminate the digital readout lights in the instrument cluster....even if the key is still in your pocket. Bill
  32. 1 point
    I second the comments that Maurice has been a great help. I was able to diagnose my problem to a broken tip on one of the cables that caused the red ball joint to break thus warning me there was a serious problem before I completely ruined the clamshell. As it is, I think I may be able to repair it and at worst case I have found a replacement at a salvage yard. I may still need some help on where to position the V levers since I had to take those off to release the torque. Thanks Gary
  33. 1 point
    Note: Part numbers sometimes change without notice. Always double check with your supplier that you have the latest part numbers. A third (center) radiator is standard on the Porsche GT3, Boxster S and all Carrera's or Boxster's with Tiptronic transmission. As well, the third radiator is now standard on all X51 Carrera Power Kit (engine power upgrade). Although the Tiptronic radiators are plumbed differently it is obvious that Porsche did this to increase the cooling capacity of these cars. Having great concern for my engine, specifically it's cooling in the hot California weather and... knowing that what Porsche does for it's competition cars is usually a good (yet sometimes expensive) idea for our street (sometimes tracked) cars. I decided to add the GT3 radiator to my 1999 Carrera Coupe (w/factory aerokit). The goal being that extra amount of protection that the additional cooling capacity adds. Initial tests show that the highest temperatures (after hard driving) have gone down 10-20°F (7-12°C) after this installation. Here is my installation procedure: It took me 4-5 hours taking pictures and cleaning. I would expect this can be done in 3-4 hours (or less). Parts you will need GT3/996 Radiator Kit (available as a kit from Carnewal.com) consisting of: 1 ea 996 106 037 51 Radiator 1 ea 996 106 666 52 Radiator Hose (right side return line) 1 ea 996 106 665 55 Radiator Hose (left side intake line) 1 ea 996 575 141 02 Air Duct (center) (for MY02 and newer 996 575 141 04) 1 ea 996 504 485 02 Retaining Frame (bottom) 1 ea 996 504 487 02 Retaining Frame (top) 4 ea 930 113 430 00 Rubber Grommets (for retaining frame) 2 ea 999 507 550 02 Speed Nut M6 (for retaining frame) 2 ea 900 378 036 09 Bolts M6 (for retaining frame) 2 ea 999 512 552 00 Screw Type Hose Clamps (now included in kit) 4 ea 999 591 869 02 Speed Nut M8 (for mounting bracket on the car) 4 ea 900 378 074 09 Bolts w/washers M8 (final mounting bolts for the assembly) Other items you will need: 4 ea 999 512 551 00 Screw Type Hose Clamps (large, do not reuse the spring clamps) 2 liters 000 043 203 78 Porsche HMZ Coolant Tools you will need Jack Jack stands 19 mm socket for wheel bolts Key for security wheel bolt Metric sockets - 10 mm, 13 mm Regular screwdriver Phillips screwdriver Torx bit- T25 Torque wrench (97 ft-lb) to tighten wheel bolts Utility Knife Cooling line mounting paths (what it will look like). The parts kit from Carnewal.com. Two views (second one courtesy of Scott Mandell). Pre-assemble the Radiator. Using the numbers in the illustration you can pre-assemble some of the radiator parts using the rubber grommets (4) and the M6 Speed Nuts (6) and M6 Bolts (5). Note the radiator outlet positions and the retaining frame top and bottom (see parts list for p/n). The radiator hose connections face the car and are on the top. The top retaining bracket (2) has tabs with small hooks. The tab hooks point towards the car and the tabs themselves angle away from the car. The bottom bracket (3) has tabs that face the car. When mounted the radiator will NOT be vertical it will be at a slight angle up. Raise the car and remove the wheels. Start by jacking the car up and placing jack stands under the front wheel jack mounts. This really puts the car at a more comfortable height to work on. Next remove the front wheels. Remove the side markers. Move the wheel well liners back. Remove from the wheel well the 3 plastic rivets and the 10 mm nut. Pull the wheel well liner back as shown (I used twine). Remove the front bumper cover. There are two screws on each side at the side marker area. One is at the forward part where the side marker assembly attaches, the other is behind the side marker. Remove the screws and rivets under the nose (2 rivets and 7-9 screws). Remove the plastic cover over the front trunk latch. This is held in place by four plastic fasteners. You just rotate these 90 degrees to remove them. Carefully pull the cover off over the latch handle. Finally remove the 2 screws (now visible). Detach the air temperature sensor cable. Lift the bumper cover off and place on a padded surface to avoid scratches. Remove the air scoops. There are 5 torx screws on the scoops to remove them. On the right side you will need to feed the rubber grommet (for the temperature sensor) through the scoop to remove it. Clean the radiators. Detach the air conditioning condensers (2 torx screws) and use a soft brush and vacuum to clean the radiators and air conditioner condensers well. Loosen the radiator assembly on each side. Remove the two bolts (13 mm) under the support bracket. Then remove the (13 mm) nut that holds the bracket (inside the wheel well). This will now allow the whole assembly to move about 6 inches down and to the side allowing enough room to change the hoses. Replace the lower hose on right (passenger side) side. Using pliers slide the hose spring clamps back on the hose but don't remove the hose yet. Place a clean container (about 2 quarts should be enough) to catch the coolant when you carefully remove the hose at the radiator end first. Coolant. This about the quantity of coolant you should expect when you remove the lower hose. I would guess slightly more than one radiator capacity. Right side (passenger side) Hoses. Old hose on left new hose on right. Place the clamps on the hoses and re-attach. Before tightening down the hose clamps rotate the hose so that the small hose is correctly positioned at to the top center of the car (for the new radiator). Replace the upper hose on left (drivers side) side. Place the clamps on the hoses and re-attach. Before tightening down the hose clamps rotate the hose so that the small hose is correctly positioned at to the top center of the car (for the new radiator). This one is a little trickier but you should see the hose path as it sits up and under the fender. Left side (drivers side) Hoses. Old hose on left new hose on right. Attach the center radiator to the car. Using the M8 speed nuts place them on the brackets on the car and attach the radiator (assembly) loosely using just the top 2 bolts. Attach the small hose to the center radiator. To easily attach the left hose remove the bolt from the left side mounting (now only supported on the right) and attach the hose and tighten the clamp. Do the reverse on the other side (place bolt back in left side and remove right bolt). Finally tighten down all 4 M8 bolts to hold the radiator firmly in place. Re-attach the radiators. Carefully re-position the radiators and replace the 2 bolts and nut that holds the assembly in place. Take care to line it up as it was previously. Reattach air conditioner condensers and tighten the 2 torx screws that hold them in place. Test for leaks. Start the engine and run for at least 5 minutes while checking for leaks. If everything is tight and leak free proceed with the rest of the re-assembly. Attach center air duct. Carefully position the air duct such that the 6 protrusions snap into the places on the radiator frame. Reattach the side air scoops (5 each torx screws). Remove the center plug in the bumper cover. This may sound easier than it is. Seems Porsche uses a black silicone type sealant on this. I found the best way was to use (carefully) a utility knife to cut away as much of the sealant as possible and then carefully pull until I got a corner up and worked my way around the edges. Note: For standard (non-aerokit) front bumpers; cut the inside gasket along the line. Remove the center plug as shown in these images (courtesy of Scott Mandell) Or, you could replace the rubber bumper insert with: 996 505 553 05 01C Air Inlet for Tiptronic (or for MY02 and newer 996 505 561 02 01C). This replaces the original insert and installs across width of stock 996 bumper. Re-attach the bumper cover. Basically, the reverse of removal. Re-attach wheel well covers. Ditto, basically the reverse of removal. Re-attach the side marker lights, wheels, lower car. Again, the reverse of removal. Add coolant, check for leaks (again), and bleed system... Add a mixture of antifreeze and water using the HMZ coolant. Antifreeze in coolant: 50% gives protection down to -31°F (-35°C) 60% gives protection down to -58°F (-50°C). Be careful not to overfill (it will get pushed out on the floor). Lift the bleed valve. Start the engine and allow it to get to full operating temperature (I also ran the air conditioning to force circulation). The coolant warning light will likely start to flash. Shut the engine off and WAIT until the engine and coolant has cooled enough to remove the coolant tank cap. Then add coolant to the tank and repeat the process. You made need to do this 2-3 times. When the coolant level fails to fall then the system is bled and you can close the bleeder valve. Enjoy your "cool" car. Just to be safe it might make sense to check the coolant level a couple of times in the next one or two days. I found under heavy (track) driving in hot weather my coolant temps run 10 to 20°F (7 to 12°C) cooler now.
  34. 1 point
    Hello all just thought I would close out this thread by reporting the resolution to my problem. Turns out there were multiple underlying causes to the symptoms I reported at the start: * a bad airlock; * cracked coil on cylinder two; and * an O2 sensor that was reporting incorrect readings (as reported by the Durametric package). The car solved number one itself with a massive burp of coolant after a particularly hard drive, giving me a scare in the process (initially thought the cylinder liner had gone - engine cut out, the engine compartment was soaked and a big cloud of water vapour out the back). Number two was solved as part of a 24,000 mile service. Number three (the O2 sensor) was solved by a fuel additive at the same time - I saw the outputs of the O2 sensors - the sensor ahead of the cat was continually reporting incorrect readings and oscillating back and forth - the fuel additive removed whatever buildup / something else and it's been fine since. The car is running well now - all of the torque and power is back again. Thanks for all the replies. Humphrey
  35. 1 point
    P0134 Oxygen Sensor Ahead of Catalytic Converter (Cylinders 1 - 3) - Interruption of Signal Function To diagnose the readiness for operation of the oxygen sensors, the position of the sensor voltage is evaluated (diagnosis is disabled in the case of certain faults or conditions). Diagnosis conditions Diagnostic Trouble Code P0134 is stored by the DME control module when the sensor voltage is continuously between 400 mY and 600 mY for more than 5 seconds. Potential causes: Open circuit in signal wire or ground wire of one oxygen sensor. Oxygen sensor heating not functioning. Output stage of DME control module faulty. Open circuit to common sensor ground. - Wiring harness - Oxygen sensor - DME control module Look for loose connections and then replace that sensor of the connections are ok. O2 sensors on these cars seem to last 60,000 to 120,000 miles. I've seen a Boxster need all for within a few thousand miles of 60,000. And, I've seen 996's with 118,000 and still no bad sensors.
  36. 1 point
    The Transmission manufacturer is ZF, the attache file is the recommended fluids for the 5HP19 transmissions. I changed my ATF in my 1999 Tiptronic car and used the VW Audi fluid. Its all the same Oil just repckaged for each dealer. AUDI, Porsch, BMW etc. The place where I purchased my fluid is ETY Parts in LA thier email: ETYPARTS@AOL.COM 1.877.ety-part (Toll Free) 323.254.7442 (Local) Here is the ATF link. http://catalog.etyparts.com/item.wws?sku=G...mp;clientid=ety P.S. I decided to use the factory ATF inlieu of an after market such as Penzoil because this is what ZF recommends period. It was about a 2 hour get dirty type job, Im going to change mine once a year from now on. D_Man ZF_approved_Transmission_Fluids.pdf
  37. 1 point
    Yes, the Tip in the 3.6 liter Carrera is the same as the TT.
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