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Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 08/15/2019 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    Welcome to RennTech On cabriolets, the number 2 relay panel is mounted to the rear of the roll over protection frame. You need to put the top in the "service" position to gain access to it.
  2. 1 point
    P0300 is a generic code for misfires. P0301-P0303 are misfires for cylinders 1, 2, and 3. Your other post is about hard starting. I would start by checking the fuel pressure at the fuel rails. There is a valve just for that purpose. Also, at the same time test fuel pressure bleed down. That will test your fuel pressure regulator. The Bank 1 misfires may be either electrical (coils/plugs) or fuel. When was the last time you ran some fuel injector treatment/Cleaner (like Techron) through the system? Also, actually remove the engine ground wire and clean up the connections from any corrosion/rust.
  3. 1 point
    This thread will give more info. "Lazy" VarioCam, P1341 - Rennlist - Porsche Discussion Forums RENNLIST.COM 996 Forum - "Lazy" VarioCam, P1341 - UPDATE: IF YOU ARE SEEING SMALL BITS OF GREEN O-RING-ISH RUBBER IN...
  4. 1 point
    Both are for getting into restricted spaces, and can be great time and knuckle savers, but there are other ways to skin this cat....
  5. 1 point
    I buy all my single use or very low use tools from Harbor Freight.
  6. 1 point
    Any suitable rachet will work, as will any brand triple square.
  7. 1 point
  8. 1 point
  9. 1 point
    Your part number is correct except for the M14 at the end, which tells me it is a Pelican number. Don't buy it from them, they a known for swapping out non OEM for the real thing. Get it from board sponsor Sunset Porsche.
  10. 1 point
    OK, let's start with the obvious: P0133 and P1275 both indicate that the O2 sensor ahead of the three way cat on bank 1 has aged out and needs replacing. I would get that done, clear all the codes and see if anything returns. Some of the other codes (P1126) indicate mixture issues and a possible vacuum leak, but with the O2 sensor out of wack may just be ghost codes.
  11. 1 point
  12. 1 point
    Best use a Porsche scan tool and see what zone the alarm system thinks is open.
  13. 1 point
    I had a similar problem recently. I had to replace the alarm module. About $150 and it is located on the middle of the firewall. I am 6’1” and have long arms and I still found it a pain to reach it. Several tutorials on the internet. Follow the steps in exact order it will help (ask me how I know this). The part is used on several cars over the years and is readily available. Do not buy a used one. They are known to fail with age. I hope this helps.
  14. 1 point
    Check your crank position sensor; hard starting when warm is a classic sign of CPS problems.
  15. 1 point
  16. 1 point
    The engine bay fan rarely if ever runs. There is a set of parameters. I'll try to find them and post.
  17. 1 point
  18. 1 point
    I now have it in for diagnosis at a reputable Porsche shop.
  19. 1 point
  20. 1 point
    You need to look behind the water pump at the engine case wall.
  21. 1 point
    I believe the Gates pump has a metal impeller: I am concerned that the pump was replaced because of overheating, not because the pump had failed or was making noise. The question is why was it overheating? At this juncture, if the car was in my shop, I would pull the water pump and look at both the impeller and the wall of the engine case. If the case is tore up, you are chasing your tail trying to get the system to work. As for the reviews of the pump, some "complain" the impeller is composite, others complain it is metal, so it sounds like they could go either way. In any case, we ONLY use the factory water pumps, which are all composite impellers, and work well, unlike several aftermarket brands we have looked at. Unfortunately, many aftermarket bits for Porsches are really junk; water pumps, surge tanks, and AOS units are great examples of what not to buy. We have seen several fail right out of the box. Yes, they are a few bucks cheaper, but after some people have gone through two or three units in quick succession, that few bucks looks like a really bad deal...…..
  22. 1 point
  23. 1 point
    Product ID : 1056 327 173 01 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  24. 1 point
  25. 1 point
  26. 1 point
    I have yet to lick my car and the battery is just fine. 😂
  27. 1 point
  28. 1 point
    Item 16 is 3 nuts per side that the muffler (mounting bracket on the muffler) to the mounting bracket on the car. Item 19 is 2 bolts per side that hold the mounting bracket to the chassis. When I remove the mufflers I just remove the 3 (per side) nuts 16. I have never seen any damage on these.
  29. 1 point
    Tape...find the ground wire and wrap some tape around the connector. That means it is not connected to anything. Originally the brown ground wire was connected to the radio chassis. Now what you want to do is disconnect the ground wire and wrap some tape around the connector so it is not touching anything.
  30. 1 point
    Best USA source for TPM sensors. Have an 08C2S. Prefer OEM but would appreciate comments if others have used aftermarket with positive results. Thanks in advance.
  31. 1 point
    Hi Just joined and was trying to find this fix for our Cayenne but sadly the link seems to have expired. I know its a very old post but hopefully someone cant point me in the right direction cheers
  32. 1 point
    Ok guys, now that this seems sorted out. In my case the problem was a faulty air change-over valve. Since I was at it I also changed the electric change-over valve. I thought I'd post an entire post-mortem on the whole incident. This way future reader can get all the info in one spot. In short, no horror stories but a lot learnt. A Huge thanks to Loren, 1999Porsche911 and tholyoak for helping me thru this. Guys, I'm going to be quoting you in the writeup below, hope you guys don't mind. If people want to read the original message and the whole thread, its below. Background ============= I got the P0410 ("Secondary Air Injection Malfunction") and P1411 ("Manufacturer Control Auxillary Emission Control") along with a Check Engine Light (CEL). What is means =============== During a cold start the catalytic convertors don't work very efficiently because they are cold. To compensate for this there is an air pump which adds air to the exhaust gases so the cat's behaviour can be somewhat compensated for. If you get this error that additional air isin't being mixed with the exhaust gases. No vehicular damage (CEL shouldn't be blinking!) but your emissions care higher during every cold start. What to do next (if you plan on fixing it yourself) ================================ 1) Observe the connection below 1 - Secondary air injection pump 2 - Air change-over valve 3 - Electric change-over valve 4 - Non-return valve 5 - To the cylinder heads 6 - Vacuum reservoir 7 - To the intake air system Basically 1 pumps the air thru 2->4->5 and reaches the exhaust gases. The computer controls when to start the blower and also when to connect the air link by controlling #3. When #3 is "ON", the vacuum line is connected to #2 which turns #2 "ON". Then #2 will connect the air blowing from one pipe thru to the other pipe. You should check every component in that chain starting from the easiest to check to the most difficult. 1. Check Air injection pump (#1, ~$430) ============================ - Do a cold start, the secondary air pump should run at least 30 sec (or more). - Sounds like a small vacuum cleaner/touch it to feelt it hum/pull off the larger hose to feel it blow air - If the pump "fails", here are the reasons : A.) "Check the electrical connections and fuse (40A fuse on the relay board next to the DME), and the relay (position 10 on the same board)." - Loren. B.) If the fuse seems ok its possible the pump is dead (you did test this with the car cold - cold start , right ?). TIP: Before buying a new pump ($$$) you could take it to a porsche dealership and have him quickly/freely verify this for you. If your air pump works, then you need to check #2 and #3. Both of these are deep inside the engine bay. You MUST remove the alternator before proceeding. Please read that thread on alternator removal - you will save several hours of frustration and sore fingers if you read before you work ! Once you remove the alternator (aka generator) you should see this ... its basically the same system shown in the black/white diagram above but this is how it looks in real life. NOTE-1 : Please note the existing connections on the tubes before you rip everything out. A camera/camera phone comes handy. NOTE-2: For the steps below, make sure you DON'T let the tubes/pipes slide away into the inaccessible areas of the engine bay - they are a HUGE pain to bring back if they slip away (unlikely-but you're warned!) NOTE-3: Finally, if you've opened the whole thing till here, I'd suggest you test both #2 and #3 to be sure you catch every failed part in that system. I simply replaced both with new parts even thought only #2 was bad in my case - #3 was just another $20 ! 2. Air change-over valve (~$80) ====================== - Note existing connections - Use nose pliers and slide the ring-clamps away from the valve onto the respective rubber hoses. - Take the little pipe off - Remove the valve piece out of the engine bay -> clean it with some alcohol wipe (don't drench it in any weird clearer/liquid - you're just sanitizing this for the next step). - Wash and clean your hands (Yes!) - Suck air out of the little pipe and quickly put your finger on it (to maintain its low pressure). If this is tough, ask your significant other (chances are they'll go "eeeeks"). - If you find you cannot maintain a low pressure on the little pipe (i.e. it feels 'open' when you suck out the air) then your valve is bad. - This low pressure should open the valve and you should be able to blow from one pipe (coming from the air blower) thru to the other. - If you cannot blow thru and are sure the low pressure is maintained, you again have a bad valve. 3. Check the Electric change-over valve (~$20) ================================= These are triggered off a 12 V supply. The valve has (+) and (-) markings for polarity of the electric connector. I quickly rigged up a 12 V supply by cascading a 9V battery with 2x 1.5 v batteries, some duct tape and some wiretags/wires. If your physics is rusty, this is the connection figure. (-A)---(-)[9 volts](+)--(-)[1.5volts](+)--(-)[1.5volts](+)--(B+) Between (-A) and (B+) you have 12 volts ! - make a note of existing connections - remove the valve from the engine bay - Connect the wires coming out from A and B to the electric change over valve's connection - If you've got a working valve, you will hear a click sound when the valve triggers. - Now, also blow from one pipe (after wiping it with an alcohol wipe!). - you will be able to blow thru/NOT blow thru as the valve opens/closes as you connect/disconnect the 12v supply wires. TIP: Check #2 also and if ONLY your electric valve(#3) is faulty, you could test the "FALSE HIT - valve from another system" valve similarly. If this "FALSE HIT..." valve works, you could swap it with #3, reassemble the car and drive ! The benefit ? The "FALSE HIT..." valve is accessible without _ANY_ disassembly and you can replace it some other day under 5 minutes when your replacement valve arrives. Also, no harm if the car is driven for the time being with that valve being faulty. Hope this helps ! Cheers! Sid -----<original post below> -------------------- Well, I got a CEL last night. So I stopped by Autozone and borrowed their OBD2 and got the following ... 1) P0410 : "Secondary Air Injection Malfunction" 2) P1411 : "Manufacturer Control. Auxillary Emission Control" My car = MY99 996 C2, North America. I saw some other posts on P0410 and today morning checked the air pump on the left side/driver side of the engine compartment near the tail lights. It seems to be working in that I could hear it buzz like a mini-vac. Not sure exactly part was making that sound, I also touched it to feel it vibrate (just like an electric motor should). I quickly glanced to see if the rubber hose on the pumps lower-back-right end was still connected and visually it looked ok. I'll have another closer look later (was behind schedule this morning!). Do you guys have any good pointers on what next I should do ? FYI, I have modified my stock exhausts with a regular bypass pipe, fabricated along the lines of the PSE version2. It sounds great and there hasn't been a change in the exhaust note since then till now/CEL coming on. I don't think its related but I thought I'd mention anything exhaust in this post. Thanks in advance guys ! Sid PS: I just got my customised plate .... SIDS 911 :D ... (actually SID5 911)
  33. 1 point
    Try and avoid the vehicle hunting between gears on an uphill climb, use the override to select a lower gear. A sharp depress of the gas pedal will change down and you can keep in that lower gear by maintaining the engine revs. It never selects first at a halt, always 2nd. To take off in first you have to select first. It will go well into the 70's if held in 2nd on a full throttle. At about 50 in 5th it's difficult to select 2nd with throttle alone it's best to use tip to get 2nd then floor it. The car will change up 3rd on auto. To get the full howling 0-100 stop the car. Change to 1st. get the car rolling slightly and floor it. You won't get wheel-spin and It gets to 100 very quickly. This is best done with the windows open. On a roundabout if applying too much throttle as a soon as the car senses out of rhythym speed between the back wheels it changes up.
  34. 1 point
    You're going to need a couple "special tools." Here's the guide: http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=5&ved=0CDcQFjAE&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.knclub.ru%2Ff%2Fattachments%2F16347d1282685305-korobka.pdf&ei=VsqrVIa-A4qjyQTR8IKgAw&usg=AFQjCNGYmGnvteF2LXeOAxlaYgiCrNbBww&sig2=W4Q2zCEAtoCJbnXAMQ2PKw&bvm=bv.82001339,d.aWw Cheers!
  35. 1 point
    The following is a do it yourself procedure for replacing the thermostat on a 09 Cayenne S. The change out is straight forward and took me around 4-5 hours. One word of advice, the thermostat housing does not have to be removed to remove the thermostat. I thought it did and wasted a bunch of time removing other components to remove the housing before I realized it wasn’t necessary. The thermostat is removed easily after the water pump is removed. The parts were purchased from Sunset Porsche who were fantastic in getting the parts to me overnight. As always thanks to Loren for his advice. Tools Pliers to remove hose clips Torx sizes T-30, T-40 Strap wrench for holding pulley when removing screws E-10 Torx socket Large adjustable wrench for serpentine belt tensioner Normal other tools, pliers, screw drivers, ratchet, extensions etc. 5 Gal Bucket Parts List 948-106-125-01 (1) Thermostat 948-106-533-00 (1) Seal for Water Pump 948-106-707-00 (2) O rings for Intake Transfer Pipe (Note, the O rings are shaped different than the original O rings. Originals were square with grooves and these are true round O rings. Torque Setting Water Pump to casing 7.5 ft-lbs Water Pump Pulley 17 ft-lb Intake Manifold and Side Covers- Cross-tighten all manifold bolts to 7.5 ft-lb; then final torque to 12 ft-lb. I could not find the 09 torque spec but found the 07 specs which were reasonable. Procedure 1) I always disconnect the battery before doing any major work and recommend it. 2) Drain Coolant System A. Allow engine to cool B. Remove Coolant Reservoir Cap C. Remove the front two splash pans under the engine and radiator D. From underside of vehicle disconnect the hose (Figure 1) and drain cooling system into a container (clean 5 gal bucket works) 3) Remove plastic around engine compartment (2 screws and 9 plastic snap screws) (Figure 2) 4) Remove intake manifold and piping A. Remove decorative 4.8 V8 cover by lifting off B. Remove intake piping by removing hose clamps and removing pins (Figure 3). The pins rotate about a quarter turn and pull upward and out. Be gentle they break easily!!!! 5) Remove Intake Manifold Side Covers (similar for both sides) A. Removing two T-30 Torx screws (Figure 4) B. Remove vacuum hose connective both side covers (Figure 4) C. Remove vacuum hose on right side breather (Figure 4) D. Lift the Manifold Side Covers from the center of the engine up and outward and they will lift off. Right side has a vacuum hose attached under the cover which needs to be detached. 6) Remove Intake Manifold A) Remove (5) T-30- or T-40 (forgot size)Torx Screws on each side of intake manifold (Figure 5) B. Move the Intake Manifold forward and remove vacuum line and electrical connection on the back of the intake manifold. The vacuum line and electrical connection wire are very short. I disconnected the vacuum line Tee shown in Figure 6 to make it easier to disconnect and reconnect the vacuum line. 7) Remove the serpentine belt A. Relieve tension on the serpentine belt by rotating the tensioner (Figure 7) B. Remove the serpentine belt from the water pump 8) Remove Water Pump A. Remove 3 Torx Screw on water pump pulley (Figure 8) using a strap wrench to hold the pulley from turning. B. Remove (5) M6 X 25 Bolts on Water Pump using and E-10 Torx socket (Note Reinstallation tightening sequence is clockwise starting with the top middle bolt. C. If the pump is stuck gently tap it with a plastic hammer or a block of wood and it should come off. 9) Remove Thermostat A. Locate the spring on the Thermostat and tie a wire around the spring. (Figure 9 &10) B. Using a screw driver or pry bar inserted in the wire loop as shown in Figure 10 and pry out the Thermostat and the Transfer Pipe. Figure 11 shows the Transfer Pipe (3) and Thermostat (4). 10) Installation is in the reverse order of the above with the following advice/precautions. A. When reinstalling the Thermostat make sure the new thermostat is all the way into the housing before inserting the Transfer Pipe. The Transfer Pipe has two seals that should be changed when reinserting the Transfer Pipe. Use a water soluble lubricant when inserting the seals. I tried pushing in the transfer pipe in by hand but it kept popping back out because of the new O rings. I used a flat pry bar to gently press the Transfer Pipe back in (Figure 12). The Transfer Pipe should be flush with the housing and should not stick out. B. Check all vacuum hoses for cracks. They get brittle over time and crack. When finished, I got a 5504 Fault Code using Durametric Software. I contacted Durametric because I could not find any information on that code. It turns out that the software is transposing the code so it should have been a 0455 code which is a vacuum leak. I found a vacuum hose cracked from moving it around to get the Intake Manifold off. C. The vacuum and electrical connection wire are very short on the back of the Intake Manifold. I disconnected the vacuum line Tee shown in Figure 6 to make it easier to disconnect and reconnect the vacuum line. Make sure they are firmly plugged in before setting the Intake Manifold in final position. D. Make sure the Intake Manifold is seated properly and no wires are under the back corner of the manifold preventing it from seating properly. E. Porsche recommends a vacuum fill of the cooling system. Since I didn’t have the equipment, I filled the cooling system through the Coolant Reservoir. I used the fluid I removed from the system so I knew how much needed to be put back in the system. I ran the vehicle for a little while, let it cool, and then continued to top off the system over the next few days. F. If you disconnected the Battery you will get a PSM fault which will go away after driving for a little while. The system has to recalibrate itself after Battery Removal. I hope this helps the helps. I wrote it about a week after I did the repair so I hope I haven't forgot anything.
  36. 1 point
    This is a DIY on care and treatment of the cabriolet top. Porsche recommends regular maintenance by simply hosing off the top with high pressure water spray and the use of soap sparingly. But once a year I find it necessary to treat the top with a more thorough cleaner and a water repellant treatment. And for that I use RaggTopp. RaggTopp can be found online and prices are tough to beat at Amazon. The cleaner will last several treatments and the protectant only one treatment. You can also buy a kit that comes with a soft brush for cleaning. Use short circular strokes to clean the cabriolet well. Then rinse it well. I let it dry thoroughly in the sun, then mask it off and use a whole can of the protectant. I let the protectant dry thoroughly, then wash the car to remove any overspray. During a recent rain (hard to believe I know , rain in Seattle!) The protectant worked great!
  37. 1 point
    DIY Guide to Replacing the Accessories Belt in the 987 Questions/comments: PM or email me: lithium_1330@yahoo.com You can download the PDF here: https://www.box.com/s/32ftofdw935rrizmmfr4 This is a suggestive guide detailing steps one can take to replace the accessories drive belt in the engine bay of the 987 (Boxster/Cayman) cars. It is a relatively simple job that most of us can tackle. For this job, you do not need to put the Boxster top in service position, but opening it up ½ way will give you more standing room to work with. Like everything else you do on your car… you’re hereby fully responsible for everything. Per PCNA, the accessories belt should be replaced every 6yrs or 60k miles. Good news is if the accessories belt snaps, you engine will still run..., but it will also cause you a nice detour from whatever you were doing. So, it's wise to get the belt replaced at the recommended service interval. And because it's a relatively easy "job", this is very much a DIY with a couple hours of time. Here is the link to the PCNA service interval page: http://www.porsche.com/usa/accessoriesandservices/porscheservice/maintenanceintervals/ Remove the firewall carpeting behind seats. • Move both seats up to the forward most position so you have room to work. • Un-latch and move the subwoofer back (no need to remove the unit) so you can access the fasteners on firewall carpeting. If you don’t know how to un-latch the subwoofer, you can find that information ½ page down in my other DIY article. • Once the sub is pushed back a few inches, you’ll be able to lift up on the top carpet. Underneath which you’ll find these plastic fasteners - lefty-losey. There should be 4 of them (IIRC). • After undoing the fasteners, you can lift the firewall carpet from top, up and out. The sides and bottom of the carpet is simply tucked in to the trims. • This will then expose the aluminum firewall, connect to the car by 9 bolts with 10mm head. 8 of them are circled in picture below, the 9th is right behind the arm-rest. You can’t miss it. The alum trim can be sharp, so wear gloves & also put a towel over the arm rest so nothing gets cut up. • After you removed the alum cover, you’ll have the engine & belt in front of you.   • Next step is to remove the belt. IMPORTANT: Before you proceed further, take note on how the belt runs around the different pulleys. You can draw a diagram, take pictures, capture in videos, or if your spouse is the type who never forgets a thing, have him or her memorize how the belt runs around the different accessory pulleys before proceeding ;) – note side that’s ribbed vs. not. You need this information so you can put the new belt back on the same way it came off. • The belt is tensioned on via a tensioner pulley. Take a crescent wrench to the hex (6-sided) nut of the tensioner and turn (I can’t remember which direction now - sorry). But, essentially the crescent wrench is used as leverage to move/rotate the entire tensioner pulley unit to take tension off the belt and allow the belt to come loose. Note the hex-nut itself should not rotate when you turn the wrench. Read: the wrench turns/moves the entire pulley. • Remove the old belt, replace with new one. There are different ways to run the belt to get the new belt back on. For me, it was easier to start around the water pump (bottom on passenger side), around the accessory pulleys on top, around the driver side then back to the tensioner pulley. • This project will try your patience. The new belt will be tighter fit than the one you removed…, so you may likely struggle a bit to the new belt back on. Take a break or two if you need. • Remember, you do need the crescent wrench again to rotate the tensioner pulley when you put the new belt back on. • Once you’re done… double check all belts are on correctly as before (fully seated correctly and looped around in the correct paths). • Before putting the alum cover and carpet back on, you can/should start the car up with cover off to check a 3rd time – make sure everything is working. • Reinstall the cover, carpet and that’s it for another 60k miles. For Reference, here are the different moving pieces: From driver side looking in: From passenger side looking in:
  38. 1 point
    This is a summary of the updates available for PCM2.1 systems fitted to MY2005 and MY2006 9x7 vehicles, which are required to run the latest maps (currently 08.2009 – MY2010). First, determine the current (Actual) software versions for the PCM and Amplifier. Press MAIN + TRIP together Scroll down to PCM and select Make a note of PCM Actual Version Go back & scroll down & select Amplifier Make a note of Amplifier Actual Version. If your car does not have an amplifier, the option will not be there. There are 4 levels of PCM software version: 04035xxx – Standard Production Status (Up to Week #42, 2004) 04202xxx – Model Level A (from Week #42, 2004 to Week #16, 2005) 05024xxx – Model Level B (from Week #16, 2005 to Week #22, 2006) 05395xxx – Model Level C (from Week #22, 2006 onwards) There are several early versions of the Bose amplifier, and it has been found (the hard way) that updating these using the Level A update CD can cause the amplifier to fail completely, and require replacement. If Amplifier Actual Version is less than 00017500 (ie 00016401) then do not attempt to update the system using an update CD. SOME of these early amplifiers can be updated using a PIWIS tester, but others require replacement. I would suggest contacting a Porsche Centre to determine this. If Amplifier Actual Version is 00017500/xxxx or greater then it is OK to update using the update CD. Required Updates: 1) If PCM is version 04035xxx then apply updates in this order: Level A, Level B, Phone, and Level C. 2) If PCM is version 04202xxx then apply updates in this order: Level B, Phone, and Level C. 3) If PCM is version 05024xxx then only apply Level C update. 4) If PCM is version 05395xxx then no updates are required, just insert the map disk. Update Disk Part Numbers (9x7): Level A - (previously – Updates Standard Production Status to Model Level A Level B - - Updates Level A to Level B Phone - - Updates Motorola phone module, if installed. Not required if phone module is not fitted. Level C - 000.044.901.40 - Updates Navigation Module, after Level B is installed, to Level C. Important: Levels A, B and Phone are done with a disk in the PCM CD drive. Level C is done with a CD in the Navigation drive. Note also that different update disks are required for Cayenne models. Edit 30th October 2012: Just to update this a little, I have just purchased the latest map DVD for Europe, which is 08.2012. Not cheap, at just over £300 +VAT. Part number 997.044.903.50. There are no further software updates, and it was plug & play in my sysetm. Still only partial postcode searches, and the map data files on the disk are 02.2012, so 3 and a bit years newer than the last one.
  39. 1 point
    I have had my '84 Carrerra for six years. It is a second owner car that I cherish. In January 09, we moved from SoCal to Omaha, NE. When the car was transported out here, I began having shifting/grinding problems with the 915 box. I checked several local "Porsche" shops before finding FLATSIX in Bloominton MN. Aaron Hatz is the owner/technician. I, of course, assumed the worst and agreed to have him rebuild the transmission. He drove down to Omaha with his enclosed trailer and took the car back to MN. A few days later, he called me and said he had found the problem. Turns out that several of the transmission mount bolts had fallen out. He replaced them and told me the transmission shifted fine but the clutch was aged. We went ahead with a Sachs Power Clutch Kit and the car works like a dream. I am a longtime car enthusiast and have dealt with thousands of shops and situations. I know when I am getting BS'd and because I'm now disabled, many operators try to talk over me, or past me. Aaron also did leakdown tests; compression tests than adjusted the valves and assured me that the heads were in good shape. Aaron's honesty and love for Porsches shined brighter than any experience I have ever had. I recommend Aaron to everyone. He is honest, knowledgeable and reasonable, not attributes you always find as a Porsche owner.
  40. 1 point
    Hello. I have done this today on my 996Turbo MY2002, but it will probably work for 996 Carreras and Targas. Switchable power supply is available if your car is equipped with auto-dimming mirror. Here are the steps to complete installation: 1. There are two dimmed plastic covers on the sides of the dome light. Remove them (they go off pretty easily, do not use a screwdriver as you may damage the plastic). My guess is these are transmitter/receiver for the IR motion sensor of the car's alarm system. 2. Locate two screws there and use a philips screwdriver to undo them. 3. Now the dome light is only held back by the clips. Pull it down gently and it will hang loose. 4. Now locate the mirror harness. Shouldn't be very hard to do since you can track the wires going to the mirror. Undo the black duct tape holding the harness together and let loose the wires. 5. Now, you need a brown wire (ground) and black/orange wire (switched +12v). The latter is quite easy to find since it's the only one of this color, whilst there are 3 brown wires in this harness. One is sort of light brown, the other two are darker. You will need one of the darker wires, but you'll have to use a multimeter to find the one you need. Measure impedance between wire in question and any ground part of the car (there are metal parts under the dome light that we have removed in step 3). Find a wire whose impedance to ground is less than 10 ohms. You don't really need to remove insulation before you have found the right wire, just pierce through insullation using the multimeter's probes. After you've found the wire, use duct tape to insulate the other one. 6. Now you have the two wires you need. Locate the ground and +12v wires of your radar detector power cable and connect them in parallel to the brown and black/orange wires you have found in the mirror harness. Use duct tape to insulate the wires, then bundle them together into a harness also using duct tape. You can route the radar-detector power cable around the dome light mounting and hide it underneath the pillar. 7. Now assemble everything in reverse order and you're done! Some photos are included below. Enjoy!
  41. 1 point
    You may just want to invest in a jumper battery. You could also drive the car more but then the roads might be snowed in Chicago. Paul
  42. 1 point
    Have recently completed adjustments on clutch cable as well as on the foot pedal. Gears had improved, but suddenly yesterday, I had a great deal of difficulty in lining up 1st and 2nd gear. It was as though they weren't there. No problem finding 3rd / 4th and 5th and Reverse. Initially I thought that the shift coupling between the rear seats had slipped, but it was still tight. I followed the instructions on how to Improve Shifting off the Pelican Site (same as in my Bentley Manual), by loosening the clamp, rotating the coupler counter-clockwise looking to the rear of the car, and the shifter left in line with 1st & 2nd gear, so it is "pre-loaded?" I then tightened the clamp once again, but then 5th and Reverse wouldn't engage. After several attempts I've found a balance, but reverse and 5th remain difficult if I don't go through several other gears first. Could this be the bushings that are worn out also causing this, or perhaps I'm not adjusting it properly? Any ideas would be appreciated. Have also order a short-shifter and new bushing set just in case from Pelican.
  43. 1 point
    Ive just done this mod now, took me about 10 mins, i earthed mine to the center console bracket. works a treat and still drops the windows when you unlock the top cant fault it, dont think i would use it anything over crawling speed for fear of damage, but i think like some others, its a bit OTT for the hanndbrake and stopped settings
  44. 1 point
    The finish on the U-shaped silver trim that surrounds the shifter boot on the 996 (1994 C4 I my case) can start to bubble and lift, as you can see from the pictures. While I had read that it would require a full replacement the boot assembly (over $250) as the trim is an integral part of the boot assembly, I decided to try to remove and repair it. Trim removal from shift boot assembly It is possible to separate the trim from the assembly. Six plastic studs are molded into the back side of the trim to hold it in place in the boot assembly. Starting at the open end of the “U”, I pushed from the backside and lower part of the trim. It took some time to work them free and separate it. Go slowly, be firm, but gentle. Removal of old trim finish The trim is a piece of U-shaped plastic covered in a foil-like silver finish. It is this finish that was bubbling. Starting where it had bubbled up, I used a sharp knife to peel the old foil off. This can be time consuming because the foil adheres quite well where it is not bubbled. Using a sharp blade (razor or x-acto) flush against the surface allows you to peel back the foil enough to use your thumb and forefinger and pull it off in small to medium-sized strips. I also found that if you do this at the edges of the tri, you could get larger edge to peel off. You want to be careful not to gauge the surface as this will likely show through when you paint it. I removed 100% of the foil from the visible portion of the pieces, all of the edges, but could not get about 15% to 20% of the foil on the inner (concave) portion of the trim piece to come off and did not think it was necessary to spend any more time. Refinishing Preparation - Very lightly sand the outer surface of the piece with 220 grit (I did not have any 360 or 400) to rough up the surface and smooth any knife marks. Wipe it down with a damp rag to remove the sanding dust and then wipe with a rag dabbed in a small amount of acetone to clean the surface. Prime with Dupli-Color grey primer – 3 light coats. Finishing – Finish with 3 coats of Dupli-Color VW Diamond Silver (P/N 8802029) and 2 coats of clear coat. (I took the trim to the store and VW Silver was the closest match). Reinstallation The trim piece simply snaps back into place. Conclusion The silver is a pretty close match (the picture is not representative). The new finish lacks, perhaps, a bit of metallic lustre, but is much better than what was there. Total time was about 1.5 hours, but it took about 8 hours with paint drying time.
  45. 1 point
    My 1999 Boxster just turned 160,000 miles on Saturday while driving over the Continental Divide at the Eisenhower Tunnel/I-70 .... coming back from a bicycle tour near Aspen [see pic of custom bike rack I designed/built for the car; even tilts back for trunk access ... and still gets 34 MPG even in the mountains!!]; bought the car from the original owner 2 years ago with 152,000 on the odometer [complete with ALL repair/service receipts]~~~~~~ the engine was changed out under 'warranty' by Porsche at 98,000 miles AT NO COST...... added a set of SS Headers over the winter; did the conversion for OBComputer readout; turn signal mods; installed a short-shifter kit [off ebay]; installed an Optima battery [after the OEM / original battery died after not driving it for a month last winter...]... I also have a 1977 911 steel Slantnose conversion with 157,000 miles on it! engine was prof. rebuilt at 90k w/all correct mods/updates done;tranny rebuilt 5 yrs ago [owned now for 16 yrs since first 2 owners]..... BOTH running STONG!!! what a pair to have to drive daily here in COLORADO!!!
  46. 1 point
    I found my rattle, and I killed it around the rear cat, on the side where it has the 70ish degree bend, there are 2 pieces of steel welded around the bend, these pieces float around the pipe and are only welded to the canister, using a rotozip and a metal cutting wheel I cut through the welds and removed these pieces, the canister and pipe are still 100% intact the weld on the inside of the bend (the smaller weld) was broken, and this is what would rattle as it heated up, now there's no rattle at all and the car sounds very different... I forgot what it was supposed to sound like
  47. 1 point
    Ok guys, you've been waiting for this, and as promised, here is my brief, but descriptive walkthrough. this is what you will need as the following: Porsche Panel wedge tool Screw Driver w/ T-20 bit and Flat head bit Turbo Instrument Cluster strong fingers! Ok with that cleared away, here is the first step. Remove the black plastic gauge cover above the gauges. Use the wedge tool or , in this case I used my fingers! (don't use the fingers, i highly recomend not to , it hurts hahahah). Remember , you will need to apply gentle but enough pressure to detach the tabs off from the top cover of the dash that is over the cluster As you can see, the reason why i say "gentle" is because you have the tabs, take them off or apply too much pressure, and those bad boys can break, if anyone had experience with plastic and heat, they can easily become brittle. Just make sure you use precaution. Next, there are 5 screws to detach the dash cluster cover. 4 screws are attached to the top of the gauge cluster, while one (in back) inside the housing is there to hold the cover in place on the main dash. Remember, these are t-20 screws. two are parallel on each side , symmetrical to each other The rear screw, is located in the center back of the gauge cluster cover. as illustrated here. Once all screws are removed, just like the black pastic gauge cover, remove the upper gauge cover off gentley. They are tabbed in place, so apply the righ pressure. Note: when you remove the cover, be sure you have the washer for the 5th screw. This holds and aligns the cover of the cluster in place. as shown here Once the top is off, you will need to gain access to the bottom half. this is where most of the work will be done. here are the major things you will need to do - Remove trip pieces - unscrew support holding ignition/key - remove driver left AC vent Lets begin with taking off the side cover where the fuse housing is and the AC vent. Use the wedge tool to open the side panel and to take the ac unit out. the AC unit pops out as an entire pice, though the trim may seperate, this is normal, but becareful , damaging the trim will result in a loose fit. The reason for this to come out is there is a screw that holds the lower portion in place, which later will be necessary to access the bottom part of the instrument cluster Next take off the trim. There are three screws, t-20's , that are behing them. use the wedge tool again, gentley take the trim off. Again use precaution when taking them out. the outer ignition/key cover is part of the trim. so make extra effort to be careful Once the trim is removed, and the screws , make sure you remove the support ring , which holds the ignition key in place by way of screwing around the threads of the ignition. there is a special tool for this, but i used a flat head screwdriver to pussh along some tabs gentley till it was unscrewed. Repeat for the trim on the right near the windshield wiper control arm on the steering will. there should be two screws to take off. Also note, the screw inside the AC vent on the left driver side, it should be on the upper corner. Next, once all screws have been removed, gentley remove the tabs off , again, use precaustion, these are tabs, and need to be taken off with extreme care avoiding damage to them, and causing not to fit properly Once the bottom is removed, go ahead and take out the remaining two bottom screws that hold/support of the cluster. Again,these are t-20 screws Once remove, it's self explanetory from there, there are a green and blue connector, with purple latches. unlatch both, and remove the old cluster. Put in the turbo cluster, and presto, turn your car on, and test the cluster b4 putting it back together. your cluster should then boot up and you will see what awaits! Further notes - When you hook up your gauge cluster, you will hear a weird buzzing noise, that's ok, it's just the cluster responding to its connection. You will also notice that your milage should be at 0.0 for new clusters or whoever's previous milage was on it, if you bought it used. So be forwarned, My friend who knows vw/audi's said clusters like these have a tendancy to carry over their last cars info on milage over to whichever car they are being installed. So note to yourself, to write down your actual mileage. Once done, and pre programed, go ahead and put everything back together, and yours should look like this Alright now! I hope everyone is successful as I was, and hope all you skeptics out there can take it easy and rest knowing someone already done this for you! hahahah Enjoy! if you have any other questions or comments, just PM or reply! I'll be more than happy to help! I will also be posting a turbo bumper upgrade too for those who are interested later once i get my spare headlight washer parts in! til then good reading folks :D :P
  48. 1 point
    Start by removing the air filter/metering unit. Two clips hold the Air Fuel Meter cable in place. Disconnect AFM connector and set aside.Remove single bolt holding AF assembly (13mm) and tilt unit back to remove. Set aside. Remove 2 bolts and 1 nut (10mm) holding air pump. One nut holds the Coolant Reservoir. Set aside. I used some string to pull it away from CR. Drain antifreeze by means of drain plug at the bottom of engine. Drain just enough to empty CR, then a little more. I used an aluminum turkey tray to hold antifreeze and reuse. Loosen 3 spring clamps holding hoses to CR. There are two fuel lines that will prevent you from removing the tank from the engine compartment. Loosen (17 & 19mm) them and tuck away (see picture). Disconnect tank sensor. In my car, it seems like it was leaking... (see picture) Slide tank towards engine and maneuver tank out. Be careful with other hoses and electrical connectors. Reverse the procedure to install. Add antifreeze, purge and check for leaks.
  49. 1 point
    Note: Part numbers sometimes change without notice. Always double check with your supplier that you have the latest part numbers. (Edit - July 25, 2006 - Updated the clutch bleeding procedure to the latest procedure as outlined in supplement 98 of the Carrera Service Manual - Loren) Parts you will need: 1 liter (minimum) 000 043 203 66 Porsche DOT 4 Brake Fluid or equal (ATE Gold or ATE Super Blue) Tools you will need: Jack 19 mm socket for wheel bolts Motive Power Bleeder (or equal) image Needle Nose Pliers 11 mm wrench for brakes; 9 mm for clutch slave (sizes vary from car to car but they are usually 9 mm or 11 mm) Plastic tubing and waste container (at least 1 liter) Jack up the vehicle at the lift points provided and remove the rear wheel (you will need to do this for each wheel). Remove the cap on the master cylinder reservoir. Remove the plastic screen using a pair of needle nose pliers. This can be a little bit challenging but it will pop off (be careful with the brake fluid.. it eats paint!) Use a syringe (or turkey baster... just don't reuse it) and suck out as much of the old fluid as possible. Fill the master cylinder reservoir with new fluid. Put the rest in the power bleeder. Screw the cap that came with the power bleeder onto the master cylinder reservoir. Put the pressure cap with the pump handle on the power bleeder and pump it up to just under 20 psi - do not go over 20 psi! Bleed order - Right rear, Left rear, Right front, Left front. Place your drain tube over the outside bleed nipple and in the bottle (remember it will need to hold a liter when you are done). Bleed the outer bleeder valve first. Open each bleeder valve until clear, bubble free brake fluid emerges. Take care to bleed at each brake caliper and at both bleeder valves. Carefully tighten the bleed screw. Wipe off the area and replace the rubber protective cap over the bleed screw. Repeat steps 8-10 for the interior bleed screw. Then reinstall the wheel and move on to the next wheel. Note: It makes sense to check the pressure and amount of fluid in the tank between wheels. Running out of fluid means starting over and getting air out. Optional Clutch Bleeding This is best done when you are bleeding the left (driver's side) rear wheel as the clutch bleed valve is mounted high above the axle on the transmission. Push the clutch pedal in by hand (very slowly) and use a long piece of wood to hold the pedal down. I wedged the other end (of the wood) between the seat and door frame -- with plenty of soft padding to avoid scratches. A second option is to have a 2nd person sit in the car and keep the clutch pedal FULLY depressed. Open the clutch bleeder valve until clear, bubble free brake fluid emerges (at least 30 seconds according to Porsche). Remove the wood. Then, pump the pedal again very slowly by hand for a further 60 seconds. After pressing the pedal down fully about 10 to 15 times, leave the pedal in its normal position. After allowing a fill time of 90 seconds, check that no more air bubbles appear at the bleeder valve (use a collecting bottle with a transparent hose). Then close the bleeder valve. Wipe off the area and replace the rubber protective cap over the bleed screw. You may notice that the clutch pedal does not return... so carefully pull it up (slowly) to it's normal position. Then depress it (slowly) a few (at least 5) times. In a few cycles the feel should return. [*]Torque the wheels bolts to 96 ftlb. (130 Nm). [*]Do a final check on the brake fluid level and top up if needed.
  50. 0 points
    My shift knob was looking pretty rough. The brushed steel was scratched and looked well worn. I originally assumed the brushed steel portion of the knob was just painted plastic to match the rest of the 996 interior and I was planning on sanding it down and repainting myself. I had even gone as far as looking for a replacement mostly because I enjoy the look and feel of a good shift knob. I tried scratching off a little paint and realized the finish was actually brushed steel and not plastic :-) Since I had already decided to refinish the knob I started the steps to refinish. I used tools that I already had available which included: electrical tape to protect the leather while polishing dremel with a flexible shaft 100 grit circular paper sanding disks (approximately 2cm diameter). (3 or 4) 400 grit circular paper sanding disks. (3 or 4) circular cloth polishing attachments for the dremel (5 or 6) course "steel cleaning" polishing compound final finish polishing compound liquid polishing paste (probably not necessary) black shoe polish to clean up the leather The first step was to protect the leather using electrical tape. It was pretty easy to position the tape very close to the steel by stretching the tape. I originally taped over the Porsche crest, but later found out that it was easy enough to avoid touching it using the circular sanding disks. I then used a small paper sanding disk with a dremel to sand off the brushed finish and remove the scratches. The first step was with 100 grit sanding disks. Using a circular paper disk make it easy to get very close to the edge of the steel and also follow the contours of the knob. This took about 15 minutes. After the first stage the knob looked like this (still with the electrical tape attached) The next step was to sand away the scratches from the 100 grit sandpaper. For this I used 400 grit paper sanding disks with the dremel. It took approximately as long as the first step (15 minutes). With a little practice I was able to get very close to the edge of the steel. At this point there were still a few scratches that were too deep to easily get with the 400 git paper so I had to repeat the process using the 100 grit disks. The next stage was using a course polishing compound with a small round polishing wheel for the dremel. The polish melts when it comes in contact with the spinning wheel. The polishing compound removed the irregular reflections from the steel and made a noticeable difference from the previous sanding. I then did the same with a polishing compound made for the final polish. This step didn't make much of a difference but the knob was now looking pretty shiny. For a final polish I used a liquid metal polish (Mothers) that I had previously been using on my rims. After this the knob looked almost perfect. I removed the electrical tape and use shoe polish on the leather to clean it up a little. The result was better than I had expected. Not quite "brand new" but very close. And since it is pretty easy to polish I may end up doing this every year or two. The final pictures are below. It looks much better 'live' than in the pictures.
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