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Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 03/08/2018 in all areas

  1. 3 points
    Eureka! I suppose during the time you guys were typing, I was arriving at the same conclusion. I pulled the latch mechanism out and examined it up-close. The tension spring was out of a pocket on the latch and not providing any push when the latch was released. Hence, the hood could be pulled up out of 'battery' but would not pop up on its own. I disassembled the mechanism, lubed it, and re-inserted the spring into the latch. Put it back together and now all is well. Very simple to do. This is how I did it and you may find it useful. Do so at your own risk, yada yada yada. 1st, open the hood and peel back the carpet cover just inside of the latch. Next, using a flat-head screwdriver, remove the four plastic 'screws' holding the trim plate between the bumper and the hood flange. They merely turn 90 degrees (so that they are perpendicular to the car's direction of travel) and pop out. Then remove the trim piece and place to the side. Next, using a ten millimeter socket, remove the two bolts securing the latch to the car. They are located just inside the trunk under the carpet you just peeled back. Once they are removed, the latch is now only held in place by two metal cables and the alarm pin switch wires. Carefully unplug the alarm wires. Push in on a small 'latch' on the lower half of the plug and pull out the lower half. Then carefully rotate the upper half about 45 degrees (it should be fairly easy to move, don't force it) and the plug will pop out of the metal holder. Then use a small screwdriver to gently push a release clip on the plastic mounting point. This will allow the small plastic mount to separate from the wiring plug. Now you need to gently remove the cables from their sockets. Take the tension off of the upper cable and gently pull the cable up out of its socket. Then remove the lower cable in the same way. The only thing holding the latch in the car now is the alarm wiring harness. Push the rubber grommet through the body toward the bumper. You can then pull the wiring through and the entire latch will come out of the car. Be sure to set the stainless steel shroud to the side. It was not attached on my car but may be on yours. Now that you have the latch out of the car, you can see the large diameter steel spring that is wound around the large post to the passenger side of the latch. That is the culprit. The small plastic shroud over it pulled straight out and off of my latch. This is the microswitch that tells the alarm that the trunk is open or closed. Set it to the side. You should now see the latch mechanism and the hole that the spring needs to be in to function properly. I used two screwdrivers to push the other end of the spring (the end on the release / catch mechanism ) over the catch. This allowed me to push the end into the latch more easily. I then popped the spring back over the catch. Now there should be tension on both the latch and the catch. Lubricate with white lithium grease, or some other semi-solid lubricant and work the mechanism to ensure that it is functioning properly. Once you have confirmed proper function, reassemble in reverse order (i.e. put the alarm switch back on - it should snap right back in place ), pop the cable back on, thread the wiring through and secure the grommet in place, place the stainless shroud on, insert the bolts and loosely tighten things. Once the bolts are in, line up the hood and the latch mechanism and tighten down the latch. Replace the plastic bumper/body trim piece but don't insert the 'screws' until you've tested the hood a couple times. Once it is clear that the hood is functioning properly, secure the trim, replace the carpet and smile at a job well done, for free. If I can figure out how to transfer my pictures out of my camera phone I'll add some illustration to this. Hope this helps. I was frustrated as *)*^*( until y'all help me realize what the problem was. Pictures ...
  2. 3 points
    It seems that there are more and more cases of these faults appearing, and as some of our cars are reaching 10-12 years old, it is hardly surprising. I've compiled this information from past personal experience on both of my 996s, reading about others on here and other forums, referring to the workshop manual and wiring diagrams, and applying some logic. Hopefully you might find it useful, and save some grief when troubleshooting. DOOR MICROSWITCHES There are seven microswitches in each door which control the alarm system. Two are separate switches: a] One on the outside door handle. This switch is used to sense that the handle is lifted. b] One on the inside door handle, which has the same function. When the car is unlocked and either handle is lifted, this signals the alarm control module (ACM) to lower the appropriate window by 10mm, and turn on the interior lights. As soon as the door opens, another switch inside the door lock (explained later) tells the ACM that the door is open, which holds the window down until the door is closed, when the window is raised, and the dimming timer on the interior lights is started. Once the car is locked, the outside handle switches are ignored by the ACM. The remaining five switches are inside the door lock assembly: c] One switch senses if the door is open or closed. d] One senses that the key has been turned to the 'lock' position. e] Another senses that the key has been turned to the 'unlock' position. f] One senses that the door lock motor has reached the 'lock' position. g] Another senses that the door lock motor has reached the 'unlock' position. TYPICAL FAULTS All these microswitches can be problematic, and it is common for one or more to fail at some time. These are some of the common failures and symptoms: 1) The door window won't drop when lifting a handle. This is usually the handle microswitch which has failed. 2) The window drops, but goes back up when the door opens, or when the handle is released. This can be the handle microswitch, or more likely the 'door open/closed microswitch' ( c ) has stuck. Because the system thinks the door is still closed, it sends the window back up. 3) Door window won't go up the last 10mm. This is likely to be the 'door open/closed microswitch' ( c ) stuck in the opposite sense to (2). The system thinks the door is still open, so won't allow the window to go back up. Note that in this case the door will still lock, but you may get a single-beep from the alarm horn. 4) Door will not lock with key. The 'key lock' microswitch (d) is broken. This is very rare, as this microswitch is hardly ever used – most times the car is locked by remote. 5) Door will not unlock with key. The 'key lock' microswitch (e) is broken. This is also very rare, for the same reason. 6) Door locks, and then immediately unlocks, usually accompanied by a double-beep from the alarm horn. This is the 'door locked' microswitch (f). The locking motor physically operates the door lock, but the microswitch to sense this has failed/stuck. The ACM promptly unlocks the car. In this case, the only way to lock the door is to use the emergency locking procedure. Turn the key in the door to the lock position and back three times in quick succession. 7) The door unlocks, but there is a beep or double-beep from the alarm horn. This is the 'door unlocked' microswitch (g). Although the door is unlocked, the ACM has not recognised that. The alarm will not sound, as turning the key in the lock has deactivated it. FIXES The inside and outside handle microswitches are available separately, and are not too expensive. Although alternative equivalent switches may be available, the genuine Porsche switch comes with a connector and wiring, so it makes sense to use an original. Part Numbers: Inside handle microswitch: 996.613.123.00 (Same both sides) Outside handle microswitch: 996.613.125.00 (Left) / 996.613.126.00 (Right) The door lock microswitches are not available separately. You have to buy the complete door lock assembly, at a cost of around $120. It has been known for people to repair the offending switch though. This is a picture of a typical failure of a 'door open/close' microswitch (courtesy of another RennTech member): You can see that the plastic plunger has broken, jamming the switch lever inside. These switches are (apparently) made by Burgess, but as yet the source and part number are unknown. There are several other similar standard switches on the market for around $2, and people have stripped down the new switch and rebuilt the old one with the plunger from the new one. OTHER SWITCHES IN THE ALARM SYSTEM The other switches and contacts in the alarm system are to monitor the lid closures: Front lid microswitch Rear lid microswitch Oddment compartment microswitch Glove box microswitch Radio contact (to detect radio theft) An open compartment or switch failure will cause a single-beep of the alarm horn on locking. A system error will cause a double-beep. Other elements of the system include an interior monitoring sensor (in the overhead lighting), an alarm readiness light (on the dashboard in the centre) and a central locking button (on the dashboard). Options are a tilt sensor (next to the battery or under the left-hand seat) and an alarm siren (next to the battery).
  3. 2 points
    The horn beeps and lights flashing is the alarm system telling you there is a alarm system zone fault somewhere. Could be an open (or maybe in this case closed/locked when it should be open) zone. Zones are: drivers/passenger doors, trunk lid, engine lid, glass (targa) top, gas cap lid, center console lid, and if you have it the glove box door. There are also two interior sensors in the overhead that detect motion when the car is locked. I think getting to the battery and disconnecting is a good idea. However, you have a problem since the trunk is not opening. First thing to try is actually seeing if the trunk is already open. Put your fingers under the trunk lid and try pulling up. Second is to locate the emergency release cable under the passenger side headlight. Unfortunately you need to pop the headlight out to make this a simple exercise, and you can't do that without opening the trunk. So you have to pull the passenger wheel well liner and fish out the cable from behind. Hopefully your wheel lock socket is not in your trunk!
  4. 2 points
    LONG STORY SHORT,,...My entry and drive system went bad one day., after almost a year of testing , replacing the battery, buying the test tool, almost brought a china piwis ,.... and bringing it to dealer and 800 dollars of dealer time., I had it fixed for 5 Dollars in parts. and one hr of soldering at first my kessy do not communicate to the darmatic tool or PIWIS at all, the dealer went ahead try to replace it , with a superseeded module, HOWEVER they wasn't able to program it for unknown reason, there is no module out there that will take my car's pin and complete the marry process because they said all the module has been superceeded. The dealer offer me to replace ALL the module in the car to an updated version for a cheapo $3000 dollars.! OF COURSE I refused,. ...,. I only lost my alarm horn , entry and drive function and its not worth $3000 dollars,. I was investigating myself trying to see what causing the problem, I came in to the touareg forum and found out those guys there have a lot of the problems with their module too. ... I was like ,hum.,,. then go under my dash and found the kessy module that is EXACTLY the same as theirs including the part number (WHICH IS A VW part number stamped on a sticker btw).... there is one guy there that took his module to a local electrician and found he has 2 fried mofset and 6 fried resistors.!!! I was like, fxxx it, why don't I give it a try, at first I couldn't found the 0.22ohm resistors (its was HARD trust me I took almost 2 months looking for them)., so I went ahead replaced the two mofset........... 15 mins and a lot of smoke later....... MAN,,,... the module can communicate with my Durametic tool...! HOWEVER,, all the antennas are reporting short to ground ERROR!!! I tried to clear it but the code come back instantly. then I went on to test the resistor value,... and found all six of the 0.22ohm resistors are SHORT (they are fusible resistor btw)....,,. sooooo I tried my best and finally able to locate those 0.22 ohm resistor .., fast forward 2 months later............ I received those resistors today.............. another 15 mins of smoke and sweat with my resoldering station... I plug the module back... run the scan tool clean the fault codes!!!!................... moment of truth,, I plug my dummy key in to the key cyclinder with the real key in my pocket!!!!!!!!!!!!! turn and the CAR STARTS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I have successfully fixed a $3000 dollars repair (that don't guarantee will work) with 5 dollars worth of resistors !!!!!! NOTE: IF your kessy don't communicate with the scan tool,. Its the TWO MOFSET that is Fried. if you have all antennas short to ground or not responding its the 6 resistors!
  5. 2 points
    Updated Mileage: 288,565. 2018 Round trips included NY to Seattle and NY to New Orleans. Still not driving as much as I'd like. #4 cylinder down to 75%. Trying to hold out to 300k before rebuild.
  6. 2 points
  7. 2 points
    I think you need option 666 or 619 for Bluetooth phone. 619 can be retrofitted, which is less expensive than 666. By the way, you can't update the system to v2.24 in one step. You have to update to v2.23 first. Your dealer should know this. I would try to find one who knows what they are doing. The 619 Mobile phone preparation retrofit involves fitting an additional microphone and entering an activation code for the Bluetooth using a PIWIS tester.
  8. 2 points
    15-year-old car - absolutely yes. Best to change every 5 years.
  9. 2 points
    Just in case anyone comes across this thread trying to solve unstable idle issues, bigbuzuki was on the right track. I replaced the vapor canister purge valve, pretty easy and inexpensive, and the crankcase breather check valve, even easier. the purge valve may have been a contributor, but the check valve was the main culprit. What is interesting here is that all of my ventilation hoses were intact and without leaks, but if you peered inside the removed check valve, you could clearly see that the membranes inside had completely disintegrated. That immediately did the trick.
  10. 2 points
    Personally, if the body shop damaged it, I would insist they replace it. It's there fault. That being said, you'll have to remove the door panel to replace the upper window weather seal. Check out this video...
  11. 2 points
    The RENNSTANDs are the safe and efficient solution and they're in production. They even have jack pads specifically for the Macan. I purchased four but you can get away with two, using them first on the front jacking points and then conventional jack stands with polyurethane protective pads on the yokes for the rear jacking points.
  12. 2 points
    I used these and had the local Discount Tire install them for $20. No programming required and they work fine. http://www.tpms.com/Huf_IntelliSens_RDE011_Set_p/uvc0011set.htm
  13. 2 points
    After this I hope we will not see any more posts about 'I took the Panamera to the dealer to replace the cabin filter'. Makes my eyes water thinking how easy it is to do on your own. If you really have too much money, send me some (I can pm you my paypal id), and/or you can send some dough to contribute to this forum. Come on, if you can afford $250 for cabin air filter change, you can support us here. Just follow each pic from 1 to 10. All needed is your fingers, but in case you do not like using your fingers, get some soft plastic pry tool. Good luck.
  14. 2 points
    If you are sure your fuel pump relay is good, and the pump turns on when jumpered, I am back to the immobilizer, which shuts the fuel and ignition off if it fails to see engine rotation. Do a search here for checking the CPS, there are a couple of simple resistance test you can run. At room temp the resistance between terminal 1 and 2 should be between 800 and 1000 ohms according to Porsche diagnostic manual. The full diagnostic should call for removing the DME and check the continuity between pin 1 of sensor and pin 32 of DME, then pin 2 of sensor and pin 46 of the DME. Also check resistance between pins 1&3, then 2&3, of the sensor. They should read infinity. If those check out, replace the sensor.
  15. 2 points
    Welcome to RennTech If you have already extracted the IMS bearing from the shaft, you cannot reuse it. The process of extraction damages most of the internal components of the bearings, which will lead to quick failure. If you have not extracted the bearing from the shaft, even though the unit feels relatively smooth means absolutely nothing. I would be willing to bet that there is already no grease inside the bearing, and the seals are hard as well. It would be false economy to not replace it.
  16. 2 points
    This DIY tutorial covers how to remove the intake manifold on the 3.6L V6 Cayenne. Removing the intake manifold gives you access to several parts of the engine that you may need to service. Disclaimer: Perform at your own risk. This is for reference only, I am not responsible for any damage/injuries that may occur from this procedure. Please do not attempt if you are not comfortable with doing work on your car or working around the fuel system. Work in a well ventilated area as you will be releasing a small amount of gas and fumes. Difficulty: 5/10 Estimated Time: ~2 hours If you’re getting a Durametric error code P0674, you likely have a bad PCV valve that needs to be replaced. An easy way to test a bad PCV valve is to unscrew the oil fill cap on the engine while it is idling. If you feel suction on the cap and/or the idle fluctuates once the cap is removed then your PCV valve is bad. The PCV valve is built into the valve cover so your options are to buy a whole new valve cover assembly (95510513500- ~$347) or buy just the PCV membrane (aftermarket $20-25) and replace it in your existing valve cover. To get access to the valve cover, you will need to follow this DIY article to remove the intake manifold first. Other reasons to remove the intake manifold are to service your fuel injectors or to make it much easier to replace the thermostat. The thermostat can be changed without removing the intake manifold (I did it twice), however you basically need to be a contortionist to reach the bolts to remove housing and you will scrape some knuckles along the way. Tools Needed: -Flathead screwdriver -Assortment of torx bits (T20, T25, T30, 6” long T30) -Pliers -Torque Wrench -3/8” ratchet set with various extensions and a universal joint -1 1/16” Deep socket -10mm Triple Square Spline Bit -Crescent Wrench -9/16” Open End Wrench -Dental pick Parts Needed: -Brake Booster Vacuum Hose- 95535557941 (your existing hose is probably brittle and will likely crack from removing it, I recommend getting a new one) -Lower Fuel Injector Seal Kit (3X) - 95511091000 (existing seals may be brittle and once you have removed the intake manifold, they may not seal properly upon reinstallation, I recommend getting new ones, need 3 sets) Procedure: First start by removing the plastic covers surrounding the engine. Using a flathead screwdriver, remove the quarter turn plastic trim fasteners. Rotate them in either direction by 90 degrees and pop them out. Be ready to catch them as sometimes they like to jump out. Next you will need to remove the 2 torx screws on either side of the engine cover with a T25 bit and the screw under the windshield washer reservoir cap with a T20 bit. Remove the oil fill cap and front engine cover by pulling straight up. They are held on by friction rings around a stud so pulling straight up will release it. Now that you have the covers removed, it’s time to remove the intake filter box and intake piping. Using your T25 torx bit, rotate the 2 screws until the dot on the screwhead lines up with the lower indication on the filter cover. Now gently use your pliers to pull them straight out. With your flathead screwdriver, pop up the two clips to release the filter housing. Pivot the filter house towards the passenger side of the car and remove it. Remove the engine air filter as well. Next, remove the wiring harness from the MAF sensor located in the middle of the intake piping. Loosen the clamp around the intake piping on the throttle body and gently work the intake piping back and forth until it releases from the throttle body. Remove the top bolt on the engine lift bracket and loosen the lower bolt with your M10 triple square bit. Then pivot the bracket towards the front of the car. Remove the bolt next to the throttle body with your M10 triple square bit. Then unplug the wire harness from the throttle body. Remove the top bolt from the bracket on the passenger side of the engine with your M10 triple square bit. Remove the vacuum lines from the intake manifold on the passenger side of the engine. One hose requires pliers to open the hose clamp, the other can be removed by hand if you squeeze the lock ring around the hose to release it. Next, from the passenger side, reach your hand around to the back side of the engine. There is a vacuum line that goes from the bottom surface of the intake manifold to the brake booster. You will need to pull the vacuum line fitting straight down to pop it out of the intake manifold. I don't have a good picture of it so here is a diagram of it. Pull down on the elbow fitting, not the hose. Also on the back side of the engine just behind the vacuum line you removed there is a bolt that needs to be removed using your M10 triple square bit. You are working blindly so locate the bolt first by feel and guide your bit to the bolt. Remove the 3 screws holding the actuator with a T25 torx bit. Slowly pull it straight out towards the front of the car. There is an actuator arm that attaches to a shaft on the passenger side of the part. Once you have enough clearance to reach your finger in there, you need to slide the arm off the shaft as you pull the entire actuator off. Then disconnect the vacuum hose from the actuator. Now pull the coolant hoses out of their holder in the intake manifold and push it towards the driver side of the car. There is a T25 torx screw that attaches this water hose bracket near the back of the intake manifold. The screw is facing up, so you need to use your T25 torx bit and get creative with removing that screw. I used a crescent wrench to turn the torx bit while holding the torx bit in place with my other hand. With the water hose bracket free, slide the water hose bracket towards the front of the car to release it from the intake manifold. This bracket has a keyhole slot that will release once it's slid forward. Remove the oil dipstick tube bracket with a T25 torx bit. Just push it out of the way once you remove the screw. With your long T30 torx bit, remove the bolt on the intake manifold that was under the actuator. Next, there are 3 blind holes on the driver side of the intake manifold. You need to use your long T30 torx bit to loosen the screws inside those holes. Those 3 screws are captive screws so they will not come out. There are 3 bolts below the intake runners. They need to be removed with your M10 triple square bit. This is where your universal joint will come in handy. The bolt near the rear of the engine required me to use my u-joint with various entensions to acess. At this point, you will hear gas leaking out. Since you have released the pressure from the lower fuel rail to the lower fuel injectors, the pressurized gas in the rail will leak out. Make sure you are working in a well ventilated area. From the driver side of the car, reach behind the engine to remove the wire harness from the fuel pressure sensor. Using your 1 1/16” deep socket, unscrew and remove the fuel pressure sensor. Using your 9/16” open wrench, unscrew the nut that connects the metal fuel line running from the lower fuel rail. The slimmer your wrench the better. My crescent wrench did not fit here. Now that the intake manifold is completely unbolted, you can start to wiggle it free. You will need to lift the manifold up from the passenger side and pivot it up towards the driver side. You will need to wiggle the lower fuel rail loose to release the metal fuel line you just unscrewed the nut from. It is a flare fitting that pushes into the upper fuel rail assembly. Be gentle here as you don’t want to bend the fuel rail. Once the metal fuel line is free from the upper assembly, you can remove the intake manifold as described above by lifting up from the passenger side first to pivot it off. At this point, you have access to the fuel injectors if you need to service them, the thermostat housing and the valve cover. Unbolting the valve cover is straight forward from here if you need to replace the PCV valve, etc. The fuel injector seal kit comes with a rubber o-ring, Teflon o-ring, Teflon sleeve and metal clip. At the bare minimum you should replace the rubber o-ring and Teflon o-ring. Use a dental pick to remove the old o-rings. These 2 parts are the wear surface when you remove/reinstall the intake manifold and are prone to fail if you re-use them. Trust me, I learned the hard way. To install the intake manifold, reverse the steps above. Take care in sliding the lower fuel rail back onto the lower fuel injectors and lining up the metal fuel line back into the flare fitting. I found it was easier to pull the lower fuel line out of the manifold to line the flare fitting up first, then pushing it into place in the intake manifold. You want to apply even pressure on the surface as you tighten all 7 of the bolts down on the driver side. Torque the 3 triple square bolts evenly to 6 ft lbs, torque angle 90 degrees, then a final torque of 22 ft lbs. The bolts holding the engine lift bracket are 17 ft lbs, the other triple square bolts holding the manifold on the head are 15 ft lbs. Once you get it all back together, turn the key to the ON then START position without your foot on the brake. This will run the fuel pumps to build pressure back up in the fuel rail. I removed the key and repeated 2-3 times to get the fuel pressure up. The first time you restart, it may take a couple seconds to fire up due to the fuel pressure needing to build back up. If you replaced your PCV valve, it may idle rough as the ECU needs to remap since it adapted to a leaking PCV valve over time. If you did not replace the fuel injector seals and smell gas/hear it leaking after shutting off the engine, then your seals failed and you need to repeat the procedure and replace those seals.
  17. 2 points
    Note: Part numbers sometimes change without notice. Always double check with your supplier that you have the latest part numbers. (Special thanks to Chuck Jones for being the guinea pig and for taking the photos.) Parts you will need: 997.624.113.00 Actuator Tools you will need: Very short Torx T20 driver and right angle ratchet or tool to use the short T20 in a very confined space Regular screwdriver, phillips screw driver, and 10 mm wrench to remove th wheel well liner 1. Jack the car so that right front wheel is off the ground and secure it with a jack stand. Remove the right front wheel. 2. Remove the wheel well liner by removing the the plastics rivets (pry them out with a regular screwdriver). As well remove the 10 mm nuts on each side of the axle. Now remove the phillips screws that fasten the wheel well liner under the front bumper and remove the wheel well liner (and set aside). 3. Locate the EVAP canister and remove the electrical connection at the top of the canister. Now remove the 10 mm nut that holds the canister in place. Remove gas the vapor lines - one at the top and one at the bottom (again by squeezing the connectors). Remove the EVAP canister by pulling gently back and forth until it releases from the rubber gromments 4. Look back up under the fender (now that the canister is out of the way) and locate the broken actuator. Now using the stubby Torx T-20 loose (but do not remove) the two T-20 screws. The actuator itself is a bit tough to get to and you will need a really short T-20 Torx head to loosen the two screws. I say loosen because that is all you need to do to remove the part - it sits in two "U" shaped slots. Remove the electrical connector (by squeezing the tab). Here is a pic of the new part - as you see the Torx screws are already in place so that is all you have to do to replace it. 5. Put the new part in place making sure you feed the emergency pull line through the fender to its location in the door jam. There is room to slide it through the side so you don't need to try and thread it through the hole. Fasten the two Torx screws and reconnect the electrical connector. Chuck's car had the guide rose guide piece missing (so he needed to order one) Here is a pic of his car (without guide rose) and my car (with guide rose). Ref. P/N 997.624.505.00 We also noticed that on his car the plastic catch for the lock was missing (so he needed to order that too). Here is a pic of his car (without cap) and my car (with cap). Ref. P/N 996.201.243.00 6. Reinstall the EVAP canister by pushing it into place on the rubber gromments. Then reattach the vapor lines (they should snap back into place) and the electrical connection. Finally put the 10 mm nut back in place and tighten down. 7. Reinstall the wheel well liner (reverse of removal). 8. Mount the tire, lower the car and re-torque the wheel bolts. Done.
  18. 2 points
    Reset 'Service Now' Message - Durametric I know this is a super simple one, but I have seen many inquiries with plenty of people saying this is not possible. So thought to provide accurate steps. In case you need to reset that pesky message appearing on your speedo, telling you to service your car now, do the following. I have been doing this via Durametric, with 100% success rate so far. Durametric sw ver: - Connect cable to ODB2 port in car, and other end of cable into powered on laptop - Start Durametric SW - IF asked to choose your year/vehicle, do so and click OK to proceed - Click the + sign next to Instrument Cluster section to expand it - Highlight the 'Commands' section - On right side of window, you will see prompt is you want to reset the service message. - Click reset, wait for completion message, click OK to close window and close Durametric. Done. Author ciaka Category Cayenne (9PA, 9PA1) - Maintenance Submitted 10/13/2016 06:24 PM  
  19. 2 points
    Hello Everyone. Please find my first tutorial submission. Replacing the Valve Body (aka valve chest) in a 2003 Cayenne Turbo Symptoms: Very harsh shift from 1-2-3 when under load (like getting rear ended by a truck) Hesitant shifts and flaring when driving normally. "Clunky" shifts. Vehicle has travelled around 210,000km. Fluid has never been changed (dealer said is was not necessary-which is not true!) After doing lots of reading it seemed like the valve body (VB) was the likely culprit. You can either replace with a new VB or have your old one re-built. If you replace the VB with a new one, you also need a new transmission control unit, and the problems will most likely re-appear. I went the re-build route and chose RevMax converters based on other people's experience. Note that RexMax don't ship outside the USA, so as I live in Australia, I used my wife's USA2ME mailbox, and they sent it on to me. I also had to send my old core in as they didn't have one in stock, but I'm glad I did, as there are several versions of VB depending on the year of your car. They rebuilt it within 48 hours. As you will need to drain and re-fill the trans, I won't be covering that in too much detail as it is covered extensively elsewhere (see my reference links below). Parts list 1) Auto trans filter 955-307-403-01 2) Auto trans filter sealing O-ring 955-325-443-00 3) Filler Hole seal O-ring 955-321-379-00 4) Crush ring for transmission drain hole - sorry didn't have PN for this as I forgot to order it! I re-used my old one. 5) 3 x Long VB retaining bolts WHT 000 321 6) 11 x short VB retaining bolts WHT 000 324 7) Transmission pan gasket 955-397-016-00 8) Case (12 quarts) of Mobil ATF 3309 or Toyota type IV Transmission fluid (It is the same stuff do don't panic if you can't get Mobil or Porsche branded fluid) Tools List 1) 1 x micro torque wrench (range 2-20 ft-lbs) 2) 1 x normal torque wrench (for torquing the fill plug to 70 ft-lbs) 3) T40 Torx bit to remove drain plug 4) 17mm Hex bit for fill plug 5) 10mm socket (apart from the drain plugs everything is a 10mm socket) 6) general other sockets and screwdrivers. 7) Durametric software to read transmission temp and re-set adaptation (you can get buy with a temp probe on a multimeter, but it was much easier to use the software, and IMHO if you are attempting a job like this you really should get it. It'll pay for itself on this job alone). 8) A willing assistant to help with the re-fill procedure. Reference - read this stuff first and print out the relevant pages 1) Official method for removing the valve body http://www.inkilino.es/Porsche_Cayenne_02-06/AUTO%20TRANS%20GEARS%20CONTROL.pdf 2) A really nice tutorial on draining and re-filling the transmission in addition to the ones on Renntech by ECS tuning http://bd8ba3c866c8cbc330ab-7b26c6f3e01bf511d4da3315c66902d6.r6.cf1.rackcdn.com/CayenneTransmission.pdf 3) there's a brief write up at club touareg that I used as a starter http://www.clubtouareg.com/forums/f73/transmission-valve-body-diy-on-2004-touareg-v8-09d-trans-64189.html Part 1 Removing the Pan and Valve Body 1) Remove the underbody protection panel. 2) There is a 2 peice bracket that holds the protection panel up, unbolt it in the centre and side and remove it. 3) My car had a strong bash plate over the rear of the transmission pan, it will need to be removed in order to access the rear pan bolts. 4) Drain the fluid from the pan (First make sure you can budge the large fill hole-It's really tight I had to use a big metal bar to crack it, once it's "cracked" you can then remove the T40 torx drain plug). Best to drain the fluid cold after it's been sitting overnight. You'll drain an easy 5-6 quarts here. 5) Remove the ATF Pan bolts (all 10mm) and save them - they can be reused. 6) Gently knock the pan to break the seal and remove it. 7) Remove the 3 10mm retaining bolts from the ATF filter and remove the filter. Make sure the seal ring comes out too. More fluid will come out. Discard filter and o-ring. You should not be able to see the valve body as below. Take a picture and make notes as to which wire goes where. It's actually not that complicated as the wires will only really go in one spot when you re-assemble. You also need to note how the selector shaft engages with the VB as below. Again this looks tricky, but it was dead easy to put back together. Here's a close up of the shift solenoid wiring harness showing the green connectors in the black housings. Here's a pic of the other side. You can see another solenoid, plus the two pressure switches (gold colour) and up the back the large white output shaft speed inductive pickup connecter. Note how the white connecter clips onto the bracket and also how the wiring is tucked under the bracket. 8) Now work your way slowly around the 5 solenoids on the shift selector side removing the green connectors. I used a small screwdriver to depress the little clip and lever them out. You should not need to use hardly any force on these. You don't want to damage them at all. 9) Remove the 2 black cable plugs at the rear of the VB and the single solenoid green connector at the front of the VB. 10) Next pull off the plug for the input shaft inductive pickup. This is located at the front of the trans, right up in the "guts" of it. It looks really tricky, but using a long screw driver it came right out. Putting it back in was also really easy, so work slowly and don't panic. 11) Next pull off the two cables from the gold pressure switches. They just pop right off. 12) Remove the bolt holding the ATF temp sensor (2 orange wires) and pull the sensor out. It's held in by an o-ring. Save the bolt and retaining bracket. Don't remove the sensor from the wiring harness, just let it dangle with the rest of the wiring harness. 13) Remove the large white connector at the rear of the VB (output shaft inductive pickup) from the bracket and unclip the white connector. 14) Remove the steel bracket and save it and it's bolts. 15) Remove the 2 gold pressure sensors (if you get the VB rebuilt you'll get new ones, but hang onto them just in case). Now all the wires should be free. Tie or secure them gently so they're out of the way. The VB is very heavy and will also dump a heap of fluid when you remove it, so you don't want to snag the wires at all. 16) Now remove the valve body by removing the 14 bolts around the outside. They are all 10mm. I removed all but 2, one at the front and one at the rear, then slowly loosened them allowing the VB to tilt forward. This allows some of the excess fluid to run out. There is still easily 2-3 quarts of fluid in there so it's messy. Again take care the VB is very heavy, expecially if you are working on your own. Here's the transmission with the valve body removed. Note the black wire in the centre of the transmission is the output shaft inductive pickup that is attached to the big white connector. Clean up the VB and send it off to be rebuilt. Part 2 Installing the VB 1) get all your parts together. Note the valve body retaining bolts CANNOT be re-used, so make sure you got new ones. 2) Gently place the VB in it's position. Make sure the selector shaft mates correctly with the VB. Mine almost just fell into place itself. Also make sure that none of the wires are snagged especially the output shaft wire (big white connector).If you've secured them out of the way this won't be a problem. I put in 2 bolts to start with to get the position right and take the weight. Only do them barely hand tight. This is really important as the torquing process will be ruined of you do them up too tight to start with. 3) Put in the rest of the bolts and tighten them up by hand so the VB is in place and mated correctly to the transmission. If you get the bolts in the right place, you'll be fine. Don't do them up too tight! 4) Now the bolts need to be torqued in 2 stages. Initially using your micro torque wrench to 6 ft-lbs (8 nm) and then finally through an angle of 90 degrees (quarter of a turn). I had an angle gauge, but I couldn't find a good spot to use it against the transmission body. So in the end I just torqued them by "eye". 90 degrees is easy to judge. So to re-cap. Torque all bolts initially to 6ft-lbs and then once you've torqued all 14 bolts, the go around and torque them AGAIN through 90 degrees. If you have one of those fancy digital torque wrenches, it may also do angular torque for you. Here's the new VB installed in the transmission. Note the wires are hanging neatly to the side. 5) Reinstall the two gold pressure switches (torque to 3.25 ft-lbs/4.5 nm) and also re-install the bracket you removed that holds the white output shaft inductive pickup wire connector. Make sure the wire is routed correctly under the bracket and attach the white connector to the bracket as below. 6) Connect the other white connector from the output shaft pickup 7) Replace the ATF temperature sensor using the bracket and the bolt. Note the wire points to the rear of the VB. Torque the bolt to 7.5 ft-lbs/10nm. 8) Plug in the 2 cables for the gold pressure switches. 9) Plug in the cable for the input shaft inductive pickup. This is the one that's right up at the front of the transmission. For me it went straight in no problems at all with a nice positive "click". It looks a bit daunting, but was surprisingly easy to re-connect. 10) Plug in the remaining green six green connectors, and the two black connectors at the back of the VB. Compare the wiring layout to the picture you took before you unpluged them all!. If you didn't take a picture, don't panic, the wires only really go one way, just make sure they're nice and neat. As a guide the orange temperature sensor wires go under the green/brown solenoid wire. 11) Next reinstall the ATF filter using the new O-ring. Torque the 3 bolts to 7.5 ft-lbs or 10 nm. It should all look like this... 12) Next put the new Pan gasket in place on the pan and using the old pan bolts install the pan and torque the bolts to 7.5 ft-lbs or 10nm. I put a little drop of Permatex blue threadlocker on them for good measure. Here's a picture of the nice clean pan and new gasket next to the old gasket. Make sure the pan and magnets are all clean. Just wipe it out. I didn't want to use degreaser in case it contaminated the trans fluid. My magnets weren't too dirty. I've seen pictures of this trans in an Audi and the magnets looked like little Chia pets!! Install the small drain plug and new crush ring (doh!) and torque to 21 ft-lbs/28nm. 13) Now cold fill the pan until fluid comes out the fill hole. It took about 4 quarts. I used a $8 garden sprayer, and put about 2 feet of clear hose on the end with a hose clamp. This allowed me to have the pump bottle at the ground, and put the plastic tube into the transmission so it hooked over the fill tube. It worked brilliantly! Here's a picture of the bottle I used. Here's the top of the setup. You can see the plastic tube going into the transmission. I also had my multimeter temp probe in there, but it turned out I didn't poke it in far enough so it couldn't pick up the temperature. I used the Durametric software instead. 14) Now for the "hot" fill procedue. Make sure your fill bottle is full. I ended up using a total of 10.5 quarts to refill the transmission (this is more than a normal fluid change as the VB has been removed), so I had to refill the fill bottle half way though the procedure. You have to move quickly as once the temperature starts to move on the transmission it only takes about 5 minutes to get to 40oC. I set my laptop up in easy reach (make sure it's fully charged or better still connected to AC) and also had all my bottles of ATF at my feet. 15) Have your assistant start the car and you start filling the transmission. I added another 4 quarts in a few minutes. Ask your assistant to move from P to R to D and back again with about a 3-4 second pause between each shift. Do this once. 16) Keep filling the transmission, and watching the temp on the software. Once the fill bottle was empty quickly re-fill it, re-pressurise and keep filling. Get your assistant to do the shift sequence again. I found that at about 32-35oC the trans was getting full. Fluid will start to leak back out the hole, so make sure you've got a drain pan under the hole! 17) Keep filling and execute another shift sequence. At about 38oC I got another shift sequence done, and then put a but more fluid it. 18) At 39oC fluid started coming out the hole a bit faster, and at 40oC I quickly pulled out the tube and put in the fill hole socket. Torque it to 70 ft-lbs. 19) Stop the car, using the durametric software execute the Reset Adaptation command for the transmission. After that go for a test drive! As the transmission control unit is in learn mode, you should try to do all sorts of driving styles. This has solved all the shifting problems I had, it really drives like a new car. Even my wife commented on how smooth it is now. Check for leaks and replace the underbody panels etc. Enjoy your new car!
  20. 2 points
    Top View 1- Ignition bar module, cylinder 1, bank 1 2 - Ignition bar module, cylinder 2, bank 1 3 - Ignition bar module, cylinder 3, bank 1 4 - Ignition bar module, cylinder 4, bank 1 5 - Ignition bar module, cylinder 5, bank 2 6 - Ignition bar module, cylinder 6, bank 2 7 - Ignition bar module, cylinder 7, bank 2 8 - Ignition bar module, cylinder 8, bank 2 9 - Fuel injector, cylinder 1, bank 1 (hidden) 10 - Fuel injector, cylinder 2, bank 1 (hidden) 11 - Fuel injector, cylinder 3, bank 1 (hidden) 12 - Fuel injector, cylinder 4, bank 1 (hidden) 13 - Fuel injector, cylinder 5, bank 2 (hidden) 14 - Fuel injector, cylinder 6, bank 2 (hidden) 15 - Fuel injector, cylinder 7, bank 2 (hidden) 16 - Fuel injector, cylinder 8, bank 2 (hidden) 17 - Inlet camshaft hall sensor, bank 1 18 - Inlet camshaft hall sensor, bank 2 19 - Knock sensor, bank 1 (hidden) 20 - Knock sensor, bank 2 (hidden) 21 - VarioCam solenoid valve, bank 1 22 - VarioCam solenoid valve, bank 2 23 - Ambient air solenoid valve 24 - Positive crankcase ventilation 25 - Three-way pressure valve 26 - Tank vent valve 27 - Throttle adjusting unit 28 - Positive crankcase ventilation heater 29 - Boost pressure control solenoid valve Front View 1 - Mass air flow sensor, right (hidden) 2 - Mass air flow sensor, left 3 - Charge air cooler, right 4 - Charge air cooler, left 5 - Boost-pressure sensor 6 - Boost pressure control solenoid valve (hidden) 7 - Boost pressure control valve (waste gate) - mechanical, right 8 - Boost pressure control valve (waste gate) - mechanical, left (hidden) 9 - Vacuum accumulator (in intake distributor) 10 - Overrun recirculating air solenoid valve (hidden) 11 - Overrun recirculating air valve - mechanical, left 12 - Overrun recirculating air valve - mechanical, right Rear View 1 - Secondary air valve - mechanical, left 2 - Ambient air solenoid valve 3 - Vacuum accumulator - integrated into intake distributor 4 - Coolant temperature sensor 5 - Secondary air valve - mechanical, right Underside View 1- Oil level and temperature sensor Oxygen Sensing 1- DME control module 2 - Secondary air injection pump, bank 1 3 - Secondary air valve - mechanical, bank 1 4 - Oxygen sensor in front of catalytic converter, bank 1 5 - Pre-catalytic converter, bank 1 6 - Oxygen sensor after catalytic converter, bank 1 7 - Main catalytic converter, bank 1 8 - Secondary air injection pump, bank 2 9 - Secondary air valve - mechanical, bank 2 10 - E-box in radiator tank with fuse and relay carrier 11 - Main catalytic converter, bank 2 12 - Oxygen sensor after catalytic converter, bank 2 13 - Pre-catalytic converter, bank 2 14 - Oxygen sensor ahead of catalytic converter, bank 2 Charge Measurement and Fuel Supply 1 - Mass air flow sensor, right 2 - Fuel injector, cylinder 1, bank 1 3 - Fuel injector, cylinder 2, bank 1 4 - Fuel injector, cylinder 3, bank 1 5 - Fuel injector, cylinder 4, bank 1 6 - DME control module 7 - Electric fuel pump, right 8 - EVAP canister 9 - Fuel tank 10 - Electric fuel pump, left 11 - Driver's door lock with switch for fuel pump supply 12 - Current distributor with cutoff relay under driver's seat 13 - KESSY control module 14 - E-box in radiator tank with fuse and relay carrier 15 - Pedal sensor 16 - Fuel injector, cylinder 8, bank 2 17 - Fuel injector, cylinder 7, bank 2 18 - Fuel injector, cylinder 6, bank 2 19 - Fuel injector, cylinder 5, bank 2 20 - Tank vent valve 21 - Mass air flow sensor, left 22 - Positive crankcase ventilation heater 23 - Throttle adjusting unit Charge Measurement and Fuel Supply - additional items for Turbo 1 - Mass air flow sensor, right 2 - Overrun recirculating air valve - mechanical, right 3 - Turbocharger with boost pressure control valve (waste gate), right 4 - Boost-pressure sensor 5 - Boost pressure control solenoid valve 6 - Vacuum pump for brake booster 7 - Intake distributor with integrated vacuum reservoir (used to control overrun recirculating air valves, for example) 8 - DME control module 9 - Brake booster 10 - E-box in radiator tank with fuse and relay carrier 11 - Pressure sensor for brake booster 12 - Ambient air solenoid valve 13 - Turbocharger with boost pressure control valve (waste gate), left 14 - Overrun recirculating air valve - mechanical, left Camshaft and Ignition Sensors 1 - Inlet camshaft vane-type adjuster, bank 1 2 - VarioCam solenoid valve, bank 1 3 - Ignition bar module, cylinder 1, bank 1 4 - Ignition bar module, cylinder 2, bank 1 5 - Ignition bar module, cylinder 3, bank 1 6 - Ignition bar module, cylinder 4, bank 1 7 - DME control module 8 - Hall sensor, bank 1 9 - Hall sensor, bank 2 10 - Ignition bar module, cylinder 8, bank 2 11 - Ignition bar module, cylinder 7, bank 2 12 - Ignition bar module, cylinder 6, bank 2 13 - Ignition bar module, cylinder 5, bank 2 14 - VarioCam solenoid valve, bank 2 15 - Inlet camshaft vane-type adjuster, bank 2 16 - Knock sensor, bank 2 17 - Knock sensor, bank 1 Temperature Control with Sensors 1 - Radiator fan, large (right) 2 - Ambient air temperature sensor 3 - Thermostat with housing 4 - Coolant temperature sensor 5 - DME control module 6 - Instrument cluster 7 - E-box in radiator tank with fuse and relay carrier 8 - Additional coolant circulation pump (also controlled by the DME in turbo engines only) 9 - Radiator fan, small (left)
  21. 2 points
    I got sick of not having cupholders in my Boxster. So I set out to find some. The options seemed to be OEM cupholders, either the clip on type, or the single DIN type. And we all know the problems with those - not secure enough fit, not accommodating large cups, etc. Also, the DIN type takes up an entire vertical DIN slot, making fitting double DIN GPS impossible. Other solutions seem to be to use a cutout for cups in the centre console box - which means the lid needs to stay open; and "ultimate cupholder" - which doesn't look OEM at all. So I was searching for generic cupholders on Ebay, and found this: http://cgi.ebay.com....=item439b780b6e And from a seller, the dimensions are: 7 7/16" long by 1" just the cover lid, assembly is 7" x 4 3/4" The width is as close to OEM fit for the Boxster as it gets, for a non-Porsche part! So I bought it. Realising that late model VWs like Passat and Jetta has the same console width as our Boxster, I then bought this: http://cgi.ebay.com....=item3ca672b7af It's entirely possible that other units like this http://cgi.ebay.com....=item3356ef534c would also fit. And before you start, get a rotary tool (like a Dremel). It's an absolute god send! Made things so easy. Here is the unit: Compared to another double DIN unit I originally planned for the mod: The difference is the newer one has a hi res screen. I actually rather liked the volume knob on the low res one. I put the cupholder and GPS unit together, with double sided tape, like this: You can also mount the cupholder on top, like this: I chose to go with the bottom fit, because I don't really like cups placed that high, and the bottom fit actually takes up a few mm less in height, which gives a better fit in the horseshoe frame. Speaking of frame, it's cut up, like this: There was a lip on the inner aspect of the lower border, this was cut to make room to increase the height. This, together with some slight sanding of the bottom of the cupholder was all that's required to make the height of the combo fit just right. Incredibly lucky! Note, you must get rid of the lower lip much as you can. Or the cupholder would be clamped too tight between the frame and the GPS, and it doesn't open when clamped tight. In the above picture, you can see I turned the OEM metal bracket around. This was necessary as the cupholder doesn't extend as deep as the OEM stereo, so the bracket support needs to come forward. You need to drill a hole in the original bracket to allow this. The reason will be very apparent when you actually do this. Here is a close up of the reversed bracket: The GPS antenna is simply placed near the alarm cover. Remove the alarm cover first, thread the GPS wire through, then just fish for it through the horseshoe frame. No need to remove anything else to place the GPS antenna. The thick wire attached to the GPS wire is the loom for my Head-Up-Display (another mod, for another day) :) The rest of the wiring here, with the unit ready to be pushed in: Here is the test fit: You can see that I will need a "n" shaped bezel to fill out the gap. This was obtained by modifying the Passat bezel that came with the GPS. The width is an exact fit, just like the cupholder (maybe 1mm longer, but I just left it). So I just sanded down the top border of the frame. And cut off the bottom border. I don't have a picture with the bottom border removed, only with the thinned top border: Press it in, it's a snug fit, not even sticky taped. And voooowwlaahhh!!!! OEM look!! From afar: With cupholder open: With a large "cup": In summary, get a genuine Jetta cupholder and an aftermarket Passat double DIN GPS! (not affliated with the seller/s, I promise) :)
  22. 2 points
    If your battery is dead and you need to get into the front trunk, it may be necessary to locate the manual pull wire to open the front trunk and get to the battery. This might be more difficult to locate the first time. You may not be in a good location to wrestle the right front tire splash guard to find it. It might be night time or you may not be dressed in the correct clothes to be down by the tires trying to locate it. I would recommend that you take the time to locate it in good weather and in the comfort of your garage or better yet re-route the wire to the front bumper behind the plastic plug the hides the location for the tow fish eye bolt. To get started I removed the carpet liner in the front trunk. The front trunk liner is made up of 2 sections and I only had to remove the front section. There was one thumbscrew clip on the passenger side and one thumbscrew clip opposite on the driver's side. Also on the driver's side there was one snapin clip and 2 additional snapin clips located in the front of the trunk. All five clips are very easy to find and remove. I then removed the plastic trim directly on top of the front trunk latch and microswitch. There are 4 screw plugs and you simply turn the plastic plugs 1/4 to 1/2 of a turn: I then removed the passenger side head lamp by using the tool in the Boxster tool kit. The kit is usually located near the spare tire in the front trunk. Turn the wrentch about 1/2 turn counter clockwise to unlock the headlamp. Slide the head lamp out. You may have to jiggle it a little but it should slide out with very little effort. Once the light is out you will be able to locate the pull wire. It is clamped into a lasso at the end. In the photo below you can see it at the end of the red arrow. The red oval in the top of the photo is the plastic wheel splash guard. The passenger front tire is directly behind that. Some recommend to access the pull wire from the tire side but that is a little more difficult and you still have the problem of trying to re-rout the wire up to the front bumber. Doing it from the head lamp side makes it easy. Here is another photo with my finger pointing at the pull wire. Remove the front bumper plastic cover that hides the tow plug. I used a plastic upholstery tool and the plastic cap popped right out. The plug has a fishline wire connected to it to prevent you from losing it. Use the light from a flashlight to guide you (from the front bumber side) and re-route the pull wire from the headlight to the tow plug. Having the top plastic guard off makes this very easy. Tuck the pull wire back in and re-insert the pastic bumber plug. Reassembly is just the reverse. Slide the headlamp back into the guides and push it home, use the wrentch and turn clock wise. you will hear a loud pop when the headlamp is secured. You know have easy access to the emergency pull wire.
  23. 2 points
    Note: Part numbers sometimes change without notice. Always double check with your supplier that you have the latest part numbers. Parts you will need: 1 each 996 102 151 64 (or 996 102 151 66) Polyrib Belt (with air conditioning) or 1 each 996 102 151 65 Polyrib Belt (without air conditioning) Tools you will need: 13 mm socket or wrench (for air cleaner) Regular screwdriver (for air cleaner) 24 mm socket or wrench (for belt pulley) Remove air cleaner housing. Mark belt travel direction with a coloured pen (if you intend to reuse it). Note: Never remove Polyrib belt when warm. The belt will deform and could be damaged. Turn the tensioning roller 7 on the socket wrench (wrench size 24 mm) clockwise and simultaneously remove the belt from the drive pulleys. Visually inspect the condition of the belt and replace it if necessary. Check belt pulley for damage. Install Polyrib belt in the order shown. Twist the tensioning roller 7 clockwise and simultaneously place the belt on the idler pulley 8. Subsequently relieve the tensioning roller slowly. Visually check whether the belt is correctly positioned on all pulleys. Reinstall the air cleaner housing
  24. 1 point
  25. 1 point
    Is anybody know how to set the date in PCM 2.1 (2008 Cayenne S)? The date display is not showing up anymore on the main display (blank). This is happened after replacing the main battery. I can set the time without issue but can't seem to find the menu to set the date (apart from selecting the date format).
  26. 1 point
    Mine did pretty much the same, drove it into the garage, all ok, come to drive it again, one side low! Seems they have removed what little lead content there was from them (so I was informed) and they just snap! Apparently quite a well known issue in the independents world. BMW springs do the same, had a couple fail on them.
  27. 1 point
    Hi, after an hour of work, I’ve reached the front BCM module under dashboard, opened it and at the first look i found a bad transistor? Maybe it’s the problem?
  28. 1 point
    Loren, you absolute star. 😊🤩😎
  29. 1 point
    I am in PA, and owned my shop for many years, but recently have sold the main business to retire (at 72 years, you get tired of oil dripping in your face).
  30. 1 point
    Very cool! I'll try it out. Thanks for doing this!
  31. 1 point
    Hello, I am planning to replace the clutch of my 996 4s and therefore need to remove the transmission. I will put the car on these 20" (max) Bahco jack stands. Would a 5th of this jack stand also be able to support the engine? In my opinion the effect is similar to the original Porsche tool (except that it stands on the bottom and is not connected to the car). The stand could be screwed exactly to a height "touching" the crankcase. Or am I wrong and need more of these or something different? Further I need a transmission jack! Can someone recommend one? What is the maximum lowest height of this jack to remove the transmission from under the car. Thanks for hints! Gert
  32. 1 point
    yeah, sound ike you have some air in the system, they are a pig to bleed due to the engine and cooling system layout, lots of pipework compared to a frontmounted engine with the rad directly in front of it,. doubt you have any other issues as the HG on these cars is pretty solid.. best of luck with it.
  33. 1 point
    If the embossed part number on the top of your coolant reservoir cap does not end with the last 2 digits being -04, get a new cap that does - an original from Porsche ideally.
  34. 1 point
  35. 1 point
    Your window limits will have to be reset (see your owner's manual), and depending upon the year of the car you may need the radio security code. There should also not be any "bolts" on the factory cable ends other than the bolt that tightens around the terminal, which is just snugged up with an hand wrench.
  36. 1 point
    "the last one is an Oxygen sensing code." <- what was the code in addition to P0300?
  37. 1 point
  38. 1 point
  39. 1 point
  40. 1 point
    I do have a complete set, which is the ECU, the kessy, the ignition lock, the steering lock still attached to the steering column and the key for a 2004 Cayenne S if someone is in need of getting going immediately. Email me at mrcbx@att.net if you need this, it will be cheaper than the dealer alternative, but please note this is for the V8 non-turbo only.
  41. 1 point
    Having wasted too much time determining what could be done to replace the Becker CDR23 in my 2004 Boxster 986S I have decided to provide a comprehensive document which may be helpful to others. I am currently an automotive engineer, but previously I was an audio engineer, so I understand both sides of this equation. Becker CDR23 Replacement.pdf
  42. 1 point
    I just started replacing my valve cover gaskets and have one done already. I know your post is from 2 years ago but I would like to thank you. The pictures you posted of the cut down torx bit and the A/C plug were instrumental in me keeping my sanity during this project.
  43. 1 point
    Text is located on each pic. Follow pics in the order they are labeled. IMO, you will find it easy to just read each step, make sure you understand what it asks you to do, then do it. If you have any doubt, chime away and people on this forum will help. Hope it helps you out. NOTE: On driver side, the tie rod rear side does not have a shield to remove. One less thing to think about. *** EDIT*** - I was gone for a while and all my pics had been removed from my tutorials. Regardless how it happened, here they are.
  44. 1 point
    First a little back ground… I’ve installed a LS3/480 HP V8 in my 2003 C4S. As part of the conversion I installed a custom 3rd radiator where Porsche had installed an oil radiator for the Tiptronic cars. I wanted to utilize the grill venting on the GT2 bumpers for better airflow for the 3rd radiator. On my last trip to California in Dec., 2014 I purchased an aftermarket 996 GT2 FiberGlass front bumper. I met with the owner of the company, I showed him my car and subsequently ordered a 996 GT2 bumper. The very limited instructions say you should take the bumper to a professional to make the install since there is some fitting to be done. I received the bumper in good order and started the fit and install. I might add that I worked my way through school in a body shop, plus I have more tools and equipment than a lot of shops. Anyway, I struggled with the fit, mostly the bumper lacked clearance under the radiators. I talked to the owner and he emphasized that there would be some fitting. So with that information I did some cutting on the bumper tray for clearance of radiator supports. Long story short after several other back and forths with the shop they finally agreed that they sold me the wrong bumper. The bumper that I got was for a narrow body car. They refunded some of the money for the bumper and since I had made cuts on the bumper he said just keep it. Anyone need a 996 GT2 bumper? My next stop was a search on the internet. I found a company that had modified a 997 GT2 bumper to fit the 996 head lights, what a great idea... This bumper was nearly twice as expensive, part of that extra cost was the factory grills and LED lights that I purchased with the bumper. I liked the fact the 997 GT2 bumper had LED lights and was a little more aggressive looking than the 996 GT2 bumper. After coming up short on the first bumper I had a long discussion with the owner of the company on the 997 bumper. I ordered it with the caveat that he would personally check the bumper out before shipping. You’ll see later that didn’t happen, welcome to the world of after-market Fiber Glass components. INSTALLATION: Before you can do a trial fit of the bumper to the car I would do the following: 1. Take a hand file and be sure that the trailing edge of the bumper returns at the wheel wells are to your satisfaction. I made sure there was an even flow to the edge as well as put a small radius on the inboard edge. Paint will stick to a radius edge better than a sharp one. 2. Next measure the opening between the plastic channel (this part is on the car directly in front/below the hood) where the top lip of the bumper will be inserted. The channel opening is fixed so you have to sand/grind down the bumper lip so it can be inserted into the channel. I took drills and tried several until the drill slipped into the channel, then used my Veneer Calipers to measure the drill diameter for the channel opening. Mine measured .190” plus. 3. Next I took a D8 sander and reduced the fiberglas lip to the .190" measurement. Don’t over do it since there won’t be a lot of fiberglas left, just sand the lip down enough so the lip will seat all the way into the channel. Be careful of the two mounting tabs, they are slightly protruding/sticking up so as you sand across the bumper lip to reduce the thickness you can take too much material off of the two tabs. All the sanding was done on the inside of the bumper. These tabs are where your first two mounting screws (flat head philips) will attach and will center your new bumper. You can adjust the hood clearance/gap by raising or lowering the plastic channel, the channel is held in place with 10mm nuts. 4. Next I sanded and leveled the two returns at the marker lights. Again, all the sanding was done on the inside of the bumper. These returns will slip into the groove created by the plastic bracket and the lower return of the fender sheet metal. Along those lines I would cover the fender from the head light back to the wheel well opening with blue/green masking tape. That will protect the paint during the install. These plastic brackets are adjustable, so take a 10mm socket and loosen the brackets so they’re as low as they will go for the first time. You can measure the thickness of the fiberglas returns to be sure they’re going to slip into the retaining channel. I would try and make the thickness of the fiberglass returns as consistent as possible. If you need to drop the plastic bracket further down you can elongate the mounting holes. I had to do that on the left side. Remember that the fiber glass layup is not always consistent so you want to sand/grind the back sides of these areas so your finished gap/lines between the fender and bumper are even. 5. This item might not be in order, but I would remove the forward fender liners before installing the bumper for the first time so you only have to worry about the fit of the bumper and not have any obstructions. Also you’ll see that the liners will need some work, this is due to the fact that the bottom of the bumper is too wide. 6. You’ll need to provide spacers at the forward recess of the marker light location. I turned two aluminum donuts, .441"O.D. X .190"I.D. X .126" tall. The reason for the spacers is to allow the front tabs of the marker light to slip over the fiberglass. You can use washers or tubing to do the same thing. The back of the marker light snaps into place. I might add that after riveting the lower plates (see later info on this) I ended up with taller spacers. See Pix No. 1. 7. If you want a tighter fit under the headlights, then you'll have to add some fiberglass/filler. I’m assuming the bumper is made with polyester resin so you could use strips of mat which would be easy to taper - or you could use a strong putty. If you have the sources, poly resin with milled fibers will also work. I used a product called U-Pol which is a Bondo type product, but has glass fibers. It worked easy, sanded easy, a great product. If you use some type of filler you should consider drilling small holes in the putty/filler area to help the filler adhesion – I’m sure you would do this without me mentioning it, but sand off the white primer finish on the bumper so you can make a good bond to the bumper… See Pixs No. 2, 3 and 4. I don’t understand if they modified the molds for the 996 why they didn’t come up with a better fit under the headlights… 8. Here’s the big issue with this bumper, the top of the bumper is dead on with it’s mounting holes, some where drilled, others had dimples where the holes would have to be drilled. But the bottom of the bumper is approximately 2” too wide so a closure strip will have to be added to the fender liners. Again, I don’t know why you make a custom bumper and the molds were not made to fit the car that it was made for. Further, I have 19” wheels with a bigger off-set than the factory 18’s. The bumper stuck out farther than my wheels, looked like a choo-choo cattle catcher. So I took a cut off wheel and made 3-5 slices on the bottom tray at the corners, then pulled the bumper together using wire attached at the marker light area mounting holes. I twisted the double wire with a screw driver until the cut joints at the bottom tray came together. I used JB Weld on the inside of the bumper to cement the joints together. I had planned to use aluminum .040” plates that later would be riveted to give the cut area reinforcement. I wouldn’t rely on the JB Weld for long term, in my case I used aluminum doublers, but you might consider laying in some additional Fiber Glass. See pix No. 5. 9. The bottom bumper tray will cover up several mounting points to the radiator supports, several other mounting locations as well as the fender liner. I have an aircraft tool that is used for locating blind holes, see pix No. 6. You can put two hack saw blades together to make your own locating tool. However I might add until you have every other fastening secured I would not drill any mounting holes in the bumper tray until that’s done. Ask me how I know… The bumper tray fits the bottom of the car, but there’s an approximate gap of 7/8" between the tray and the factory mounting points so you’ll need spacers. I machined spacers out of aluminum, I used a large diameter so I would spread the contact area. Also I used large S.S. fender washers under the screw heads. See pix No.7, 8 and 9. Regarding the 7/8” gap, the spacers takes care of the immediate problem of securing the bumper, but the downside is that it reduces the chin spoiler clearance from 6-7/8" on my factory Turbo bumper to 6” on the 997 GT2 bumper. Plus the 997 GT2 reworked bumper for the 996 overhangs further forward so your up and down driveway clearance will be dramatically reduced. In my case I have a 14% grade to my drive apron and the only way I can get the car to the street is to back out and have a spotter to tell me when to swing the front end just missing the curb return. I’ll have to re-do my drive approach to make using the car workable. Don’t get me wrong, I love the look of the bumper, the LED lights, it’s well made, much better than the first bumper, albeit a lot more expensive. I’m just passing on how to’s to prevent any any lost souls like me surprises. 10. Here’s the reinforcing plates that I used for the bumper tray cut areas. However I’ve extended the plates both to the rear and to the outside to cover open areas under the radiators that the factory bumper originally covered. Again the new bumper should have addressed that… See pix No. 10. 11. Here’s your last challenge, closing up the gap between the fender liner and the new bumper side fenders… Your biggest problem will be to heat and form the fender liner so the outside edge moves forward to tuck in behind the fender/bumper return. Right now the new bumper wheel arch is slightly forward of where the factory liner wants to be. I made a wood buck and heated the back side with my heat gun and formed the fender liner forward. All of this will be obvious to you once you get this far. I put the buck in the bench vise, then set the liner down over the buck once it was hot. You’ll have to hold the liner over the buck until it cools down. Here’s the wood buck that I band sawed out, very simple, but it worked like a charm. See pix No. 11 12. Depending on your needs and abilities you can leave the gap, use rubber or plastic to fill the liner gap. I chose to use .040” aluminum and riveted it to the fender liner… See pix No. 12 13. Here’s how I solved the tow eye bumper plug installation… See pix 13 and 14. 14. Regarding the radiator intake boots: Here’s the information that’s worth the price of admission if you’re going to do this bumper…The manufacture of the bumper doesn’t know, I only backed into this information by accident. 2 years ago I bought a new air intake boot since mine had a tear in it. The bumper company said that either you chop up your existing boot or go without and just let the air migrate through your grill and across your radiators willy-nilly. I cut away on my existing boot and it was a mess and fit the bumper poorly… I happen to look at the P/N on the boot and it began with a 997 P/N. I figured if a 997 boot fit the radiator on my C4S then all I had to do was to order the 997 GT2 boot. Sure enough it fit both the radiator and the GT2 bumper. I did have to snip a couple of places, but overall it was a good fit. See pix 15. 15. I connected the LED lights, took the one amber incandescent light in the LED body and turned that into a directional light. Also I completed the RennTech side marker light conversion to a directional light. I used a honey cone aluminum mesh that I fitted and installed behind the grill openings. I removed the grills for painting, then re-installed them, then attached the fitted grills (I had them powder painted) with hot glue. It would have been a lot better installing the grill mesh before installing the grills. I might add that I bought the Porsche factory grills and LED lights. Lastly, I used the factory rubber eye brows under the headlights, I cut off the mounting tabs and use the 1/2” 3M molding attachment tape to bond them to the bumper. Loren has already posted the schematic I used for connecting the LED lights. Most of this work is pretty generic to any after market bumper. Take your time, measure twice, cut once and you’ll be ok… There’s a lot of nuances that I haven’t gone into, if you have any specific question, feel free to PM me. Good luck, Pix No. 1 Pix No. 2 Pix No. 3 Pix No. 4 Pix No. 5 Pix No. 6 Pix No. 7 Pix No. 8 Pix No. 9 Pix No. 10 Pix No. 11 Pix No. 12 Pix No. 13 Pix No. 14 Pix No. 15
  45. 1 point
    P2293 Fuel - high pressure Possible fault causes: - Predelivery quantity or pressure in fuel low pressure circuit too low - Pressure relief valve in high pressure circuit faulty - Fuel high pressure sensor faulty - Quantity control valve faulty (in fuel high pressure pump) - Fuel high pressure pump faulty - High pressure injector(s) (fuel injector(s)) faulty
  46. 1 point
    I would like to ADD a reverse camera to my '08 Cayenne S. Can you tell me if all I need to do is get a camera and program the dash? Is it prewired to the rear hatch? Thank you.
  47. 1 point
    Vincent, I just got her running and it was the Pulse Sender (aka Crankshaft Position Sensor) and it is called a "Impulse sender" at Pelican Parts. Odd I had no faults on the Durametric? Item Name Item Price Quantity Item Total --------- ---------- -------- ---------- 986-606-112-02-M14 $131.75 1 $131.75 Impulse Sender, Boxster 986 (1997-2004), Brand: Bosch -m
  48. 1 point
    I bought the roof rails for the pepper off another Canadian a while back and just got to install them today. It's uber easy and took about 30 minutes. The former owner gave me the screws to mount as well, but in reading the Porsche TSB; it said to always replace the screws so I got new ones from the dealer. They have a blue loc-tite type coating on them to lock them in place so I thought better safe than sorry. I started by cleaning the surface of the truck with a micro-fibre towel Each one of the holder thingies has lettering on it which corresponds to where they go (letters out) The positioning is as follows: vR-Front, Right mL-Center, Left hL-Rear, Left vL-Front Left mR-Center, Right hR-Rear, Right Put the back (rear) ones in first Then put the rail over the holders and secure with screws. 6.5 Ft. Lbs. torque, and tighten the rear one first Same for the other side and your done. Don't put any load on them for a while so the loc-tite stuff can cure Once tighten, use the plugs to fill the holes, they just push in. They go in this order: Long-rear, medium-middle, short-front. I just like the lines so much better with these on.....
  49. 1 point
    Basically it is engine at operating conditions (i.e. warmed up). Secondary Air Diagnostic conditions - Battery positive voltage between 10 V and 16 V - Time after engine starts > 1 second EVAP Diagnostic conditions – V8 - Battery positive voltage between 10 V and 16 V - Time after engine starts > 11 minutes and 30 seconds - Idle speed - All oxygen sensors ready for operation - No oxygen sensor fault stored - No tank vent driver fault stored
  50. 1 point
    IMHO it would be really useful if some of you guys could reply with which code Loren suggests actually works. It might help make more accurate predictions. Just my 2 cents worth.
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