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Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 03/09/2018 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    Personally, if the body shop damaged it, I would insist they replace it. It's there fault. That being said, you'll have to remove the door panel to replace the upper window weather seal. Check out this video...
  2. 2 points
    Thanks again to all of those contributors that helped me while I went through this upgrade. This topic appears to be a common one and one that doesn't appear to have a complete solution for contending with the MOST bus. Hopefully my DIY will help owners with the MOST bus successfully upgrade their factory stereo system as I have with mine. Also note that the wiring and process described should work with any system (Kenwood, Alpine, etc.), not just the AVIC D3 as the signal requirements and factory harness wiring is detailed here. Also note that this upgrade also covers the iPod interface, Sirius satellite radio and Bluetooth module install. Good luck! 03_04_Boxster_AVIC_D3_Radio_Upgrade.pdf
  3. 1 point
    The booster should have a check valve ,,, now ON my jeep when it died it made a guinea pig whistling noise..
  4. 1 point
    This thread will give more info. "Lazy" VarioCam, P1341 - Rennlist - Porsche Discussion Forums RENNLIST.COM 996 Forum - "Lazy" VarioCam, P1341 - UPDATE: IF YOU ARE SEEING SMALL BITS OF GREEN O-RING-ISH RUBBER IN...
  5. 1 point
    OK, let's start with the obvious: P0133 and P1275 both indicate that the O2 sensor ahead of the three way cat on bank 1 has aged out and needs replacing. I would get that done, clear all the codes and see if anything returns. Some of the other codes (P1126) indicate mixture issues and a possible vacuum leak, but with the O2 sensor out of wack may just be ghost codes.
  6. 1 point
    Product ID : 1056 327 173 01 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  7. 1 point
  8. 1 point
    996 Ignition Switch replace (just the switch) with pictures First off - thanks to everyone who has been down this road before me for providing tips and suggestions and troubleshooting regarding this common problem. I have been dealing with a key that would stay all the way to the right upon starting meaning that the A/C, heated seats and some other items would not function. My solution had been to simply start the car and then just move the key back one notch to the left and everything worked fine. So if others have that issue, my original solution Author scb71 Category Carrera (996) - Common Fixes and Repairs Submitted 09/16/2009 01:31 PM Updated 03/13/2017 05:24 AM  
  9. 1 point
  10. 1 point
    Pelican Parts sells a book called "101 Projects" which shows in detail many servicing tasks in detail. pelicanparts.com.
  11. 1 point
    Fuse 16 in the left fuse support. In many cases, it is not the fuse but a bad horn (or horns). The factory horns are not very good.
  12. 1 point
  13. 1 point
    I received a call from Jake and he said they started assembly work on the motor this week. Right on schedule with the dates he gave me back in August. Pictures coming soon.
  14. 1 point
  15. 1 point
    That's the vent line from the oil/coolant heat exchanger #30 here.
  16. 1 point
    Did this happen after replacing the car battery? With or without Kessy?
  17. 1 point
  18. 1 point
    You can only get IPAS codes from a dealer - and in most cases after showing proof of ownership. Sorry, no shortcuts for those.
  19. 1 point
    OK, then you need to start looking at other suspects. There are a series of hammer in plugs, much like freeze out plugs, in your engine's oiling system; one of these may have popped loose. It find it without taking the engine apart (which you may end up doing anyway, depending upon where it is), you need to connect an oil filled pressure chamber to the oiling system and then pressure the oil backwards into the system, looking for where the oil comes pouring out.
  20. 1 point
    Hello, I am planning to replace the clutch of my 996 4s and therefore need to remove the transmission. I will put the car on these 20" (max) Bahco jack stands. Would a 5th of this jack stand also be able to support the engine? In my opinion the effect is similar to the original Porsche tool (except that it stands on the bottom and is not connected to the car). The stand could be screwed exactly to a height "touching" the crankcase. Or am I wrong and need more of these or something different? Further I need a transmission jack! Can someone recommend one? What is the maximum lowest height of this jack to remove the transmission from under the car. Thanks for hints! Gert
  21. 1 point
  22. 1 point
  23. 1 point
  24. 1 point
    The online manuals show the layout of the servos in chapter HVAC.pdf, from about page 35 on. These diagrams provide adequate information on positioning of the servos for re-installation. It doesn't matter where they are for removal. You can adjust the arms on your bench with a small 12v power source and a couple of leads. Contacts 1 and 2 can be teased to operate the servo motor. Reverse the contacts to reverse the motor until you have each in the position it's shown in the diagram. Then positioning of the servos becomes the least of your problems. Don't start the job without a set of long torqx screwdrivers and a tiny ratchet with assorted torqx bits. My experience in replacing the servos on a 2004 CS with left hand drive may not translate directly to a car with right hand drive, but I wrote about it at https://rodcroskery.wordpress.com/category/2004-porsche-cayenne-review (reverse chronological order September 18, 2016) and posted comments on page one of this discussion.
  25. 1 point
    Yes. You can also look at my DIY for the third front radiator which includes bumper removal.
  26. 1 point
    Probably your best bet is the Bentley manual for the 996, which is in book form only. You can also look around for a set of the factory 996 manuals, but they are expensive and harder to find as they have been out of print for many years now. Be cautious about pdf files, they tend to be woefully incomplete and/or out of date (there were many updates to the originals over the years), plus as most are illegal copies of Porsche copyrighted intellectual properties, and subject to legal action. This website does not condone trading in such materials.
  27. 1 point
  28. 1 point
    I do not know why this is either but the Porsche parts list does show several different regional PCM control units.
  29. 1 point
    As I understand it, a PDK transmission requires both a transmission fluid change and clutch fluid change. The clutch fluid change needs to be carried out twice as often as the transmission fluid. If your problem is not software-related, I'd hazard a guess at a clutch fluid change being necessary. Odd that a Porsche dealer would state that a clunking PDK was "fine and normal" !
  30. 1 point
  31. 1 point
  32. 1 point
    About 1 year ago, for my 2011 Turbo, from PartsGeek.com: 2011 Porsche Cayenne TPMS Sensor - UVS2000 HUF Intellisens - $40.74 Working great so far!
  33. 1 point
    Symptom: Your LCD display inside your instrument cluster is very dim, or was dim before, but now you cannot see anything at all on it. So you are left with only the analog dials (needles) to rely on, for information. This prevents you from accessing settings for the car. This DIY will help you fix this issue. Most of the time, the issue is a transformer located on the main board of cluster, that becomes defective. Remedy is to replace it. Below info will show you every step of the way, from trim removal, taking cluster apart, doing solder rework and putting it all back together. Pictures are very self explanatory. I just completed this, after collecting information from multiple sources. Collected so that one can do it all from one place. Hope this helps. Do yourself a favor, review entire DIY before you start, so you know what you will need, what you will need to do, etc. PART INFO: Ordered from: http://www.keyecu.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=3003&search=A44002 Ordered from this place for $25.90 plus about 23 bucks for shipping. If you plan to replace both transformers (one for LCD, another for analog dials brightness), order two and replace both. If you are not sure you can tackle this, get someone that can solder. Good luck.
  34. 1 point
  35. 1 point
  36. 1 point
  37. 1 point
    Remove and clean the MAF sensor with MAF cleaner (since you will have the air filter box out anyway) Remove and clean the entire TB Remove the ICV (Idle Control Valve) from the TB and clean it out with alcohol and q-tips, cycle it with a 9V battery to ensure smooth operation of the valve, it should not stick and should cycle smoothly, it should be shiny clean inside, not black (the is the usual culprit for "hunting idle"), as stated be very careful with the paper gasket, it is very fragile Remove the TPS (throttle position sensor) and clean it up as necessary Suggest replacing the TB O-ring upon reassembly
  38. 1 point
  39. 1 point
    Not Porsche design fault. Sorry to say but owner maintenance requirement. Also suggest you do this: http://www.ecudoctors.com/porsche-996-boxster-waterproof-immobilizer-case-enclosure.html
  40. 1 point
    I did this one a little while ago, but never had time to get these organized into a tutorial for others. Here it is. Comments are in each pic, for each step to do. Each picture is numbered in the order to be done. Hope this will help you make the replacement easier (especially if you are new to doing such work).
  41. 1 point
    Getting into a 996 when the Battery is Flat. The conventional route seems to be opening the front trunk lid with the emergency wire and then applying jump start leads to the battery. This certainly works, but sometimes the wire is hard to find and with the wheel in place it is difficult to get behind the front wheel arch liner. In my view, it is a great deal easier to get in from the back, with the emergency release wire, and then to apply power to the jump start points in the engine compartment. Proceed as follows:- Tools: A short length of coat hanger wire with a small hook at one end and a narrow timber or plastic wedge. Method: There is an emergency engine cover release wire under the left back light cluster. You need to fish this wire out and when it is pulled the engine cover will be released. Insert the wedge between the underside of the light cluster and the top of the rear fender. Make the gap wide enough to insert the wire hook. Push the hook in about 4 to 6 inches. Turn the wire slightly and withdraw it pulling the caught emergency wire out. Pull the wire to release the engine cover lid. At this point the alarm will go off if there is sufficient current in the system. Locate the jump start points. The earth -ve (black jump wire) is near the engine cover catch and doubles as an air box fixing. The +ve (red jump wire) is just above the power steering pump within a plastic box. Attach both the jump wires, placing the red +ve wire first. The system is now energised and the central locking can be used and the alarm switched off. If you have never seen this wire, it is a good idea to locate it so you know where it is. It's easy to remove the rear light cluster. There is a single set screw with a 10mm hex head visible when the engine cover is raised. Options for the front emergency wire: Although the front trunk wire is more difficult to find it's worth looking for it before you need to do so in a hurry. I have extended my front release wire with a short length of nylon cord, bringing it out to a more accessible location. There are a number of options available for this, including running it to the side flasher unit.
  42. 1 point
    Started a DIY to replace my water pump today. Got the airbox out and was about to remove my s-belt. Used a 24mm socket to crack right on the tensioner pulley and that's the problem... it did not move over and loosen the play of the s-belt. In fact, it just turns left and/or right w/o moving the pulley at all. Felt behind the pulley and found a nut to tighten from behind but could not get any of my openbox wrenches to fit in that tight space. Need some shorter wrenches to get in there... Looks like a 16mm(someone please confirm) but wondering if anyone else ran into this issue re the t-pulley and if it's just a matter of tightening(is there a proper torque setting) the front and back(nut and screw) or do I need to be mindful of something... BTW, I replaced my s-belt last year. The tensioner worked properly then... so wondering if I may have cracked on it too hard previously and loosen it... hope it's not a stripped issue. Car is an '08 997.1S with 51K miles. On a side note: I couldn't find my mechanics extending mirror... had to brake into my wife's make-up bag for a small mirror to get back there. You guess it... she came out to check on me and caught me with her "compact" inside the engine compartment. Not a good day for the weekend mechanic.
  43. 1 point
    First off - thanks to everyone who has been down this road before me for providing tips and suggestions and troubleshooting regarding this common problem. I have been dealing with a key that would stay all the way to the right upon starting meaning that the A/C, heated seats and some other items would not function. My solution had been to simply start the car and then just move the key back one notch to the left and everything worked fine. So if others have that issue, my original solution will work but obviously the problem remains and at some point you may end up stranded if the ignition switch completely fails. I stumbled upon some of the other threads and found that this needed fixing and I opted to replace just the switch as opposed to upgrading to the new complete unit that Porsche has moved to. This procedure is not new to the board, but I thought a step by step with pictures may be useful to those looking for an inexpensive solution. It cost me $12.11 including tax. If your ignition mechanism has been changed to the newer revised unit the ignition switch is a different part number but I assume the steps would be the same. The part for just the switch - no longer available through Porsche since they are only selling the entire $150 unit - is 4A0905849B. The switch alone is available mail order through Pelican for $10, Autohausaz.com was +/- $8.75, Ebay has them all over the map from $15-30. All of these options will work but require shipping charges and delivery time. I was hoping for a local option since I had the time to do it today. Here is what I found in Houston - a local Audi dealer had one in stock for $35, while VW had to order it (for more than $35 believe it or not). Doing a search online at parts stores using my Porsche got me nowhere so I opted to use an older Audi - in my case a 1997 Audi A8 since the part is the same. I found Autozone had one for >$40, OReilly came up blank but I did not call to check, a specialty imports place had one for $27 and then I found it in stock at NAPA for $11.19 + tax. Since NAPA seems to have stores all over the place I suggest looking there first if you don't feel like mail order. The complete part number at NAPA was ATM 4A0905849B using the 1997 Audi A8 as the vehicle. Here is a picture of the NAPA part (left) alongside the original part which I removed from my 996 cab - note the AUDI rings on the old part. Equipment needed: Small flat screwdriver - eyeglass or electronics size Philips screwdriver Torx driver 10mm wrench rubber pry tool Cold beer to celebrate 1) Disconnect the battery - I just undid the negative with a 10mm wrench 2) OPTIONAL but makes the job easier than the shop manual in my opinion. Remove the side air vent by pulling the headlight switch towards you and inserting a small blade screwdriver up from the six o'clock position. You should notice a spring like resistance which will release the knob and allow it to pull towards you. Here is a picture of the back of the knob showing the release mechanism Once the knob is off remove the three torx screws – one in the headlight control recess and two on the side After the screws are out take a rubber pry tool (or be careful with a flat screwdriver) and remove the vent housing - it will pull towards you with a little effort but not much. Once off I pulled it out far enough to gain access but left the headlight control connected because I was lazy and saw no need to unhook it. I forgot to take a picture of this part but it should be self explanatory. You will now see a philips screw directly in the back of the air vent - remove. 3) Crawl under the dash and remove the center piece (A) of the air vent - there is not much room and you will not miss it. The piece can be nudged towards the side to release on one end and then the other. Since you removed the screw from above you should be able to remove the middle and side piece now out the bottom. 4) Unplug switch by pulling directly off the back - do not unhook the purple tabs just pull the entire unit back. Make sure to pull this off BEFORE unscrewing and removing the switch as the screws holding the switch in make this much easier than trying to get a hand in there - believe me I jumped ahead and then resorted to screwing it back in. 5) Unscrew two set screws - one on the bottom on one on the opposite side. The screws are coated with red paint that may need to be chipped through with your screwdriver before you can get the screw to grab. I unscrewed the bottom screw while under the dash and then from the seat I reached under and could view the top screw through the side vent area and unscrewed it. Do not remove the screws just undo them far enough to remove the ignition switch. Bottom screw noted in this picture Top screw as viewed from side vent opening - this can also be done from underneath but the small space and clutch pedal against my head led me to look for easier access 6) Now that the screws are loose you should be able to pull the ignition switch out and replace it with the new one. Screw in the set screws, hook the harness back to it and get ready for a cold beer - not quite but almost 7) Slide out from under the foot well, hook up the battery and see if all is well. You may as well check before reattaching the rest. If the car starts as it should you will notice a nice smooth ignition with the slight spring back to the left just after ignition. Hook up the air vents, screw everything back together and push the headlight knob back in place 8) Crack open a cold beer and smile - you just saved a lot of money. This is one of the simplest "repair" DIY out there - it took me probably less than 20 minutes including removing the side vent and I took my time since I had never done it before. If I need to replace it again - which is likely - it will be even quicker. You can always replace the entire ignition module with the new and improved unit at around $150 I think - and alot more effort - but for $12 and 20 minutes I am hoping I can get some decent life out of this switch and then just replace it again in a few years if I need to. Like I said before - this is not a new DIY but I am hopeful that these pictures will be helpful. Thanks again to all of those who provided the prior posts.
  44. 1 point
    Porsche Cayenne Starter Repair/Cleaning I will be posting a starter repair/cleaning tutorial for the Porsche Cayenne. I bought a 2006 S a few months back and it had the startup whine that I believe is common to this vehicle. I have replaced the old starter with a Chinese $130 job, but I don't trust that the starter will last. I was amazed that no one had posted a DIY for this since the new Bosch starter is so **** expensive. As of right now I have most of the starter disassembled (which was not difficult except for one part that I can't figure out). As I clean and put back together I will post pics and advice. I found a few sites where you can get starter parts, mostly in Great Britain. I used a parts company called saverepair.com. Unfortunately, Bosch doesn't supply a lot of parts specific to this starter. The starter number is 0 001 125 025. Other good reference sites are aspwholesale.com, https://en.as-pl.com and this parts breakdown helped TREMENDOUSLY http://www.woodauto.com/Unit.aspx?Man=BOSCH&Ref=0001125025 (which wood auto was my second choice for parts but they cost a bit more.) What I could order from saverepair.com were these parts. bsx208-209 Bosch Starter Motor brushes 5.8 mm x 18mm x 14.6mm. 1 €3.60 €3.60 wsbu9016 Starter Bushing 10,08mm x 14,04mm x 9,90mm Rear bushing for Bosch,Front Bushing for Valeo D7E, and Centre for Ford Motorcraft. 1 €0.55 €0.55 wsbu9022 Starter Bushing 28,47mm x 32,30mm x 10,00mm. Front bushing used in Self-Supported Bosch starters. 1 €1.72 €1.72 wss0020 Starter Solenoid for Saab 9-3 Turbo 9-5 Turbo 900 9000 Opel Astra F Corsa A B Kadett E Vectra A B Lancia Fiat and more. 1 €18.00 €18.00 Pretty cheap parts as you can see. When I received the parts I was a bit concerned that the solenoid wouldn't work (I basically picked it by cross referencing starters that were close to the number range and had the same type of connectors). This solenoid is a bit larger than the old one, but the screw holes match up perfectly. I have never replaced bushings or brushes before, so this will also be an adventure I'm sure. On a side note, I REALLY wanted to replace the main bearings on the starter, but there are a few things I can't figure out. There is a part called the bendix that has the gear at the end that also holds the bearings. It is also attached to the stationary gear and a spiral gear shaft. I can't figure out how it all separates. If I did, I could just replace the entire bendix with the bearings on it. I'll see if I can attach a pick of what I'm talking about. If I can't get them separated I think it will be fine as the bearings still turn. I believe the major points of wear on the starter is the bushings. There is wiggle and play on the shafts on the bushings, which is probably why the starter was whining. Stay tuned! One more thought on removing the starter itself. There are write-ups for that so I won't delve, I will say, it is a relatively easy job of removing parts to get to it, but it does take a lot of time. I was able to remove the starter also without disconnecting coolant lines. I also added a pic of me after ripping the engine apart, with a much rewarded pipe blend called "quiet nights" (completely irrelevant to the post, ha!). Author jmass76 Category Cayenne (9PA, 9PA1) - Common Fixes and Repairs Submitted 01/27/2017 06:37 AM Updated 03/19/2017 08:40 PM  
  45. 1 point
    It may just be the oil seal ring has failed on the chain tensioner (very large nut in the left center of the picture). While the fix is cheap (replace the seal), you need to put the engine at TDC, lock it, and use cam locks to hold everything in position while removing the tensioner to replace the seal:
  46. 1 point
    Yes, the Tip controller can not switch the valve if it is off (fuse removed) - nor can the vacuum valve switch with the engine off.
  47. 1 point
    I decided to remove the rear seats out of my 2003 C4S and eventually build a shelf with doors, i.e. the RS kit (?) that was sold at one time. I would sure like to get my hands on the doors shown in this pix. Anyway, the purpose of this "mod" is to utilize the tear drop opening where the shoulder strap of the seat belt was anchored. My first thought was to just install a piece of painted sheet metal behind the opening, then I came up with the idea to make the opening an interior light. A friend of mine gave me a 12" square of 1/8" white plexi. It turns out that the backside of the opening isn't flat so I had to first cut out the shape on the band saw with about 3/8" over lap on the bottom of the opening and a fitted edge to the top of the opening. Then I heated the plastic so I could warp the plexi piece for fitment to the backside of the opening. Not slam dunk, it's trial and error to get the shape to lay down on the back side of the plastic piece. Naturally if you had a mirrored shaped block of wood you could just heat the plexi and drape it over your fixture. Also remember there's a left and right so it would take two fixtures. So I just heated and bent the plastic to make a pretty good fit. Note you have to be careful not to dent the plastic when it's hot with pliers or a Crescent wrench. I used a ViseGrip with wide jaws that are covered in leather. I think if you had 1/16" plexi it would work better than my 1/8", I might add that I used a red Magic Marker to fine tune the fit. It seems to me that the black Magic Marker really gets into the material and it's hard to remove even with lacquer thinner. Once I had the fit, I sanded the shiny plexi with 1200 wet or dry sand paper to remove the gloss. Then used black RTV silicone and glued the lens to the back of the Porsche upholstery. I bought a strip of white LED's that has a self adhesive back. I just stuck the strips directly to the car body. I haven't wired the lights up yet, however I did light them up, I'm very pleased with the look and the light. I'm thinking I might wire the LED's into theinterior door lights so I don't have to worry about a separate switch and leaving the lights on. If you wanted to get weird you can buy LED's that can change colors. Remotes are available to rotate the color of preference if that's your thing. FYI: You can get these LED strips on-line from superbrightled.com - P/N NFLS-NW30X3-WHT - Natural White. These LED's run on 12 volts so you don't need power pack, just 12 Volts to the strips. The strips come 19" long with 2 leads, I cut the strips down to 6 LED's per side,then soldered + and - leads to the other strip. The strips are polarity sensitive, but they're well marked.
  48. 1 point
    Hi all, I am almost thru the replacement of a CDR23 / BOSE amplifier (2003 MOST bus) , and wanted to share some of my install notes. I have gained a lot of insight by reviewing previous posts, and hopefully, can add some more to the collective wisdom on this topic! Briefly, I was able to successfully interface a Nakamichi CD400 HU and ARC Audio Mini 4-ch amplifier to the factory wiring harness using an Autoleads PC2-95-4 connector. NO CUTTING/SPLICING of factory wiring was needed, which was a key consideration for me. Result - It works, and sounds noticeably better than stock (w/ the factory spkrs). However, the factory spkrs' deficiencies have now been highlighted, so me-thinks a decent set of Focals, Morels, Dynaudio or the like is the next order of business! Anyway, if anyone is interested in details, please see attached PDF. Note, this is NOT a full DIY tutorial - if you are not familiar w/car stereo installations, I would recommend letting a shop handle this. I purchased this amp from Rod Birch (Car Audio Innovations) and his advise and help was indispensible for me to get thru this project. Thanks, - Sanjeev Amp-HU-install.pdf PS: I would highly recommend Rod Birch - he is extremely knowledgeable about these cars and their ins/outs relative to stereo installs.
  49. 1 point
    P0171 Oxygen Sensing Adaptation, Idle Range, Bank 1 – Above Limit P0174 Oxygen Sensing Adaptation, Idle Range, Bank 2 – Above Limit Possible fault causes: - Incorrect signal from MAF sensor - Intake air system leaking - Fuel pressure too low - Volume supply of fuel pump too low - Fuel injectors fouled - PCV valve leaks - Cap of oil filler neck not closed correctly or seal is damaged Looks like you have a leak...
  50. 1 point
    I found it hard to believe as well, until i dug a little deeper. Turns out, theres this option for something LIKE a LSD... on cars with the stability management option, apparently the computer already has alot of control over the brakes. so what it can do is take constant measurements of both rear wheels, and apply a tweak of brake to the spinning one. on a conventional open differential, this makes more torque goto the other wheel. it does this so fast and so well, if you dump the clutch (with PSM off) it will leave two black marks... if you have one wheel off in the sand and the other on the road, you wont get stuck, etc... but heres the nicer part.. at higher speeds, (45mph according to Lorens post above) it doesnt do it.. so you can get the excelent high speed cornering of an open diff, while still being able to snap the back around with the throttle when autocrossing... just like a LSD. add to that, the open diff weighs less..(and its rotating mass) and the system adds no weight, as the hardware already must exist for the ABS... it becomes a software-only upgrade at that point. its a very cool little feature.
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