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Showing content with the highest reputation since 12/25/2018 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    The horn beeps and lights flashing is the alarm system telling you there is a alarm system zone fault somewhere. Could be an open (or maybe in this case closed/locked when it should be open) zone. Zones are: drivers/passenger doors, trunk lid, engine lid, glass (targa) top, gas cap lid, center console lid, and if you have it the glove box door. There are also two interior sensors in the overhead that detect motion when the car is locked. I think getting to the battery and disconnecting is a good idea. However, you have a problem since the trunk is not opening. First thing to try is actually seeing if the trunk is already open. Put your fingers under the trunk lid and try pulling up. Second is to locate the emergency release cable under the passenger side headlight. Unfortunately you need to pop the headlight out to make this a simple exercise, and you can't do that without opening the trunk. So you have to pull the passenger wheel well liner and fish out the cable from behind. Hopefully your wheel lock socket is not in your trunk!
  2. 2 points
    LONG STORY SHORT,,...My entry and drive system went bad one day., after almost a year of testing , replacing the battery, buying the test tool, almost brought a china piwis ,.... and bringing it to dealer and 800 dollars of dealer time., I had it fixed for 5 Dollars in parts. and one hr of soldering at first my kessy do not communicate to the darmatic tool or PIWIS at all, the dealer went ahead try to replace it , with a superseeded module, HOWEVER they wasn't able to program it for unknown reason, there is no module out there that will take my car's pin and complete the marry process because they said all the module has been superceeded. The dealer offer me to replace ALL the module in the car to an updated version for a cheapo $3000 dollars.! OF COURSE I refused,. ...,. I only lost my alarm horn , entry and drive function and its not worth $3000 dollars,. I was investigating myself trying to see what causing the problem, I came in to the touareg forum and found out those guys there have a lot of the problems with their module too. ... I was like ,hum.,,. then go under my dash and found the kessy module that is EXACTLY the same as theirs including the part number (WHICH IS A VW part number stamped on a sticker btw).... there is one guy there that took his module to a local electrician and found he has 2 fried mofset and 6 fried resistors.!!! I was like, fxxx it, why don't I give it a try, at first I couldn't found the 0.22ohm resistors (its was HARD trust me I took almost 2 months looking for them)., so I went ahead replaced the two mofset........... 15 mins and a lot of smoke later....... MAN,,,... the module can communicate with my Durametic tool...! HOWEVER,, all the antennas are reporting short to ground ERROR!!! I tried to clear it but the code come back instantly. then I went on to test the resistor value,... and found all six of the 0.22ohm resistors are SHORT (they are fusible resistor btw)....,,. sooooo I tried my best and finally able to locate those 0.22 ohm resistor .., fast forward 2 months later............ I received those resistors today.............. another 15 mins of smoke and sweat with my resoldering station... I plug the module back... run the scan tool clean the fault codes!!!!................... moment of truth,, I plug my dummy key in to the key cyclinder with the real key in my pocket!!!!!!!!!!!!! turn and the CAR STARTS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I have successfully fixed a $3000 dollars repair (that don't guarantee will work) with 5 dollars worth of resistors !!!!!! NOTE: IF your kessy don't communicate with the scan tool,. Its the TWO MOFSET that is Fried. if you have all antennas short to ground or not responding its the 6 resistors!
  3. 2 points
    Updated Mileage: 288,565. 2018 Round trips included NY to Seattle and NY to New Orleans. Still not driving as much as I'd like. #4 cylinder down to 75%. Trying to hold out to 300k before rebuild.
  4. 2 points
  5. 2 points
    I think you need option 666 or 619 for Bluetooth phone. 619 can be retrofitted, which is less expensive than 666. By the way, you can't update the system to v2.24 in one step. You have to update to v2.23 first. Your dealer should know this. I would try to find one who knows what they are doing. The 619 Mobile phone preparation retrofit involves fitting an additional microphone and entering an activation code for the Bluetooth using a PIWIS tester.
  6. 2 points
    15-year-old car - absolutely yes. Best to change every 5 years.
  7. 2 points
    Just in case anyone comes across this thread trying to solve unstable idle issues, bigbuzuki was on the right track. I replaced the vapor canister purge valve, pretty easy and inexpensive, and the crankcase breather check valve, even easier. the purge valve may have been a contributor, but the check valve was the main culprit. What is interesting here is that all of my ventilation hoses were intact and without leaks, but if you peered inside the removed check valve, you could clearly see that the membranes inside had completely disintegrated. That immediately did the trick.
  8. 2 points
    Note: Part numbers sometimes change without notice. Always double check with your supplier that you have the latest part numbers. (Special thanks to Chuck Jones for being the guinea pig and for taking the photos.) Parts you will need: 997.624.113.00 Actuator Tools you will need: Very short Torx T20 driver and right angle ratchet or tool to use the short T20 in a very confined space Regular screwdriver, phillips screw driver, and 10 mm wrench to remove th wheel well liner 1. Jack the car so that right front wheel is off the ground and secure it with a jack stand. Remove the right front wheel. 2. Remove the wheel well liner by removing the the plastics rivets (pry them out with a regular screwdriver). As well remove the 10 mm nuts on each side of the axle. Now remove the phillips screws that fasten the wheel well liner under the front bumper and remove the wheel well liner (and set aside). 3. Locate the EVAP canister and remove the electrical connection at the top of the canister. Now remove the 10 mm nut that holds the canister in place. Remove gas the vapor lines - one at the top and one at the bottom (again by squeezing the connectors). Remove the EVAP canister by pulling gently back and forth until it releases from the rubber gromments 4. Look back up under the fender (now that the canister is out of the way) and locate the broken actuator. Now using the stubby Torx T-20 loose (but do not remove) the two T-20 screws. The actuator itself is a bit tough to get to and you will need a really short T-20 Torx head to loosen the two screws. I say loosen because that is all you need to do to remove the part - it sits in two "U" shaped slots. Remove the electrical connector (by squeezing the tab). Here is a pic of the new part - as you see the Torx screws are already in place so that is all you have to do to replace it. 5. Put the new part in place making sure you feed the emergency pull line through the fender to its location in the door jam. There is room to slide it through the side so you don't need to try and thread it through the hole. Fasten the two Torx screws and reconnect the electrical connector. Chuck's car had the guide rose guide piece missing (so he needed to order one) Here is a pic of his car (without guide rose) and my car (with guide rose). Ref. P/N 997.624.505.00 We also noticed that on his car the plastic catch for the lock was missing (so he needed to order that too). Here is a pic of his car (without cap) and my car (with cap). Ref. P/N 996.201.243.00 6. Reinstall the EVAP canister by pushing it into place on the rubber gromments. Then reattach the vapor lines (they should snap back into place) and the electrical connection. Finally put the 10 mm nut back in place and tighten down. 7. Reinstall the wheel well liner (reverse of removal). 8. Mount the tire, lower the car and re-torque the wheel bolts. Done.
  9. 2 points
    It seems that there are more and more cases of these faults appearing, and as some of our cars are reaching 10-12 years old, it is hardly surprising. I've compiled this information from past personal experience on both of my 996s, reading about others on here and other forums, referring to the workshop manual and wiring diagrams, and applying some logic. Hopefully you might find it useful, and save some grief when troubleshooting. DOOR MICROSWITCHES There are seven microswitches in each door which control the alarm system. Two are separate switches: a] One on the outside door handle. This switch is used to sense that the handle is lifted. b] One on the inside door handle, which has the same function. When the car is unlocked and either handle is lifted, this signals the alarm control module (ACM) to lower the appropriate window by 10mm, and turn on the interior lights. As soon as the door opens, another switch inside the door lock (explained later) tells the ACM that the door is open, which holds the window down until the door is closed, when the window is raised, and the dimming timer on the interior lights is started. Once the car is locked, the outside handle switches are ignored by the ACM. The remaining five switches are inside the door lock assembly: c] One switch senses if the door is open or closed. d] One senses that the key has been turned to the 'lock' position. e] Another senses that the key has been turned to the 'unlock' position. f] One senses that the door lock motor has reached the 'lock' position. g] Another senses that the door lock motor has reached the 'unlock' position. TYPICAL FAULTS All these microswitches can be problematic, and it is common for one or more to fail at some time. These are some of the common failures and symptoms: 1) The door window won't drop when lifting a handle. This is usually the handle microswitch which has failed. 2) The window drops, but goes back up when the door opens, or when the handle is released. This can be the handle microswitch, or more likely the 'door open/closed microswitch' ( c ) has stuck. Because the system thinks the door is still closed, it sends the window back up. 3) Door window won't go up the last 10mm. This is likely to be the 'door open/closed microswitch' ( c ) stuck in the opposite sense to (2). The system thinks the door is still open, so won't allow the window to go back up. Note that in this case the door will still lock, but you may get a single-beep from the alarm horn. 4) Door will not lock with key. The 'key lock' microswitch (d) is broken. This is very rare, as this microswitch is hardly ever used – most times the car is locked by remote. 5) Door will not unlock with key. The 'key lock' microswitch (e) is broken. This is also very rare, for the same reason. 6) Door locks, and then immediately unlocks, usually accompanied by a double-beep from the alarm horn. This is the 'door locked' microswitch (f). The locking motor physically operates the door lock, but the microswitch to sense this has failed/stuck. The ACM promptly unlocks the car. In this case, the only way to lock the door is to use the emergency locking procedure. Turn the key in the door to the lock position and back three times in quick succession. 7) The door unlocks, but there is a beep or double-beep from the alarm horn. This is the 'door unlocked' microswitch (g). Although the door is unlocked, the ACM has not recognised that. The alarm will not sound, as turning the key in the lock has deactivated it. FIXES The inside and outside handle microswitches are available separately, and are not too expensive. Although alternative equivalent switches may be available, the genuine Porsche switch comes with a connector and wiring, so it makes sense to use an original. Part Numbers: Inside handle microswitch: 996.613.123.00 (Same both sides) Outside handle microswitch: 996.613.125.00 (Left) / 996.613.126.00 (Right) The door lock microswitches are not available separately. You have to buy the complete door lock assembly, at a cost of around $120. It has been known for people to repair the offending switch though. This is a picture of a typical failure of a 'door open/close' microswitch (courtesy of another RennTech member): You can see that the plastic plunger has broken, jamming the switch lever inside. These switches are (apparently) made by Burgess, but as yet the source and part number are unknown. There are several other similar standard switches on the market for around $2, and people have stripped down the new switch and rebuilt the old one with the plunger from the new one. OTHER SWITCHES IN THE ALARM SYSTEM The other switches and contacts in the alarm system are to monitor the lid closures: Front lid microswitch Rear lid microswitch Oddment compartment microswitch Glove box microswitch Radio contact (to detect radio theft) An open compartment or switch failure will cause a single-beep of the alarm horn on locking. A system error will cause a double-beep. Other elements of the system include an interior monitoring sensor (in the overhead lighting), an alarm readiness light (on the dashboard in the centre) and a central locking button (on the dashboard). Options are a tilt sensor (next to the battery or under the left-hand seat) and an alarm siren (next to the battery).
  10. 2 points
    I got sick of not having cupholders in my Boxster. So I set out to find some. The options seemed to be OEM cupholders, either the clip on type, or the single DIN type. And we all know the problems with those - not secure enough fit, not accommodating large cups, etc. Also, the DIN type takes up an entire vertical DIN slot, making fitting double DIN GPS impossible. Other solutions seem to be to use a cutout for cups in the centre console box - which means the lid needs to stay open; and "ultimate cupholder" - which doesn't look OEM at all. So I was searching for generic cupholders on Ebay, and found this: http://cgi.ebay.com....=item439b780b6e And from a seller, the dimensions are: 7 7/16" long by 1" just the cover lid, assembly is 7" x 4 3/4" The width is as close to OEM fit for the Boxster as it gets, for a non-Porsche part! So I bought it. Realising that late model VWs like Passat and Jetta has the same console width as our Boxster, I then bought this: http://cgi.ebay.com....=item3ca672b7af It's entirely possible that other units like this http://cgi.ebay.com....=item3356ef534c would also fit. And before you start, get a rotary tool (like a Dremel). It's an absolute god send! Made things so easy. Here is the unit: Compared to another double DIN unit I originally planned for the mod: The difference is the newer one has a hi res screen. I actually rather liked the volume knob on the low res one. I put the cupholder and GPS unit together, with double sided tape, like this: You can also mount the cupholder on top, like this: I chose to go with the bottom fit, because I don't really like cups placed that high, and the bottom fit actually takes up a few mm less in height, which gives a better fit in the horseshoe frame. Speaking of frame, it's cut up, like this: There was a lip on the inner aspect of the lower border, this was cut to make room to increase the height. This, together with some slight sanding of the bottom of the cupholder was all that's required to make the height of the combo fit just right. Incredibly lucky! Note, you must get rid of the lower lip much as you can. Or the cupholder would be clamped too tight between the frame and the GPS, and it doesn't open when clamped tight. In the above picture, you can see I turned the OEM metal bracket around. This was necessary as the cupholder doesn't extend as deep as the OEM stereo, so the bracket support needs to come forward. You need to drill a hole in the original bracket to allow this. The reason will be very apparent when you actually do this. Here is a close up of the reversed bracket: The GPS antenna is simply placed near the alarm cover. Remove the alarm cover first, thread the GPS wire through, then just fish for it through the horseshoe frame. No need to remove anything else to place the GPS antenna. The thick wire attached to the GPS wire is the loom for my Head-Up-Display (another mod, for another day) :) The rest of the wiring here, with the unit ready to be pushed in: Here is the test fit: You can see that I will need a "n" shaped bezel to fill out the gap. This was obtained by modifying the Passat bezel that came with the GPS. The width is an exact fit, just like the cupholder (maybe 1mm longer, but I just left it). So I just sanded down the top border of the frame. And cut off the bottom border. I don't have a picture with the bottom border removed, only with the thinned top border: Press it in, it's a snug fit, not even sticky taped. And voooowwlaahhh!!!! OEM look!! From afar: With cupholder open: With a large "cup": In summary, get a genuine Jetta cupholder and an aftermarket Passat double DIN GPS! (not affliated with the seller/s, I promise) :)
  11. 2 points
    If your battery is dead and you need to get into the front trunk, it may be necessary to locate the manual pull wire to open the front trunk and get to the battery. This might be more difficult to locate the first time. You may not be in a good location to wrestle the right front tire splash guard to find it. It might be night time or you may not be dressed in the correct clothes to be down by the tires trying to locate it. I would recommend that you take the time to locate it in good weather and in the comfort of your garage or better yet re-route the wire to the front bumper behind the plastic plug the hides the location for the tow fish eye bolt. To get started I removed the carpet liner in the front trunk. The front trunk liner is made up of 2 sections and I only had to remove the front section. There was one thumbscrew clip on the passenger side and one thumbscrew clip opposite on the driver's side. Also on the driver's side there was one snapin clip and 2 additional snapin clips located in the front of the trunk. All five clips are very easy to find and remove. I then removed the plastic trim directly on top of the front trunk latch and microswitch. There are 4 screw plugs and you simply turn the plastic plugs 1/4 to 1/2 of a turn: I then removed the passenger side head lamp by using the tool in the Boxster tool kit. The kit is usually located near the spare tire in the front trunk. Turn the wrentch about 1/2 turn counter clockwise to unlock the headlamp. Slide the head lamp out. You may have to jiggle it a little but it should slide out with very little effort. Once the light is out you will be able to locate the pull wire. It is clamped into a lasso at the end. In the photo below you can see it at the end of the red arrow. The red oval in the top of the photo is the plastic wheel splash guard. The passenger front tire is directly behind that. Some recommend to access the pull wire from the tire side but that is a little more difficult and you still have the problem of trying to re-rout the wire up to the front bumber. Doing it from the head lamp side makes it easy. Here is another photo with my finger pointing at the pull wire. Remove the front bumper plastic cover that hides the tow plug. I used a plastic upholstery tool and the plastic cap popped right out. The plug has a fishline wire connected to it to prevent you from losing it. Use the light from a flashlight to guide you (from the front bumber side) and re-route the pull wire from the headlight to the tow plug. Having the top plastic guard off makes this very easy. Tuck the pull wire back in and re-insert the pastic bumber plug. Reassembly is just the reverse. Slide the headlamp back into the guides and push it home, use the wrentch and turn clock wise. you will hear a loud pop when the headlamp is secured. You know have easy access to the emergency pull wire.
  12. 1 point
  13. 1 point
  14. 1 point
    The hoses 1 and 3 are the supply and return lines for the front radiators. They are located on the back side of the engine near the transmission. They connect to the metal supply and return lines that run up the center transmission tunnel and go to the front radiators. You probably have to remove the underbelly pans to see them. Those hoses attach to #9 and #10 here M96.01/02/03 Water Cooling 2 M96.04 WWW.AUTOATLANTA.COM
  15. 1 point
    It's part #18 here. There are multiple versions depends on your year and model. http://www.autoatlanta.com/porsche-parts/hardparts.php?dir=996-99-05&section=105-05
  16. 1 point
    Sounds like either the key or the lock detents are worn - or both are worn. You could try a new key before replacing the whole switch.
  17. 1 point
    In a word, no. It requires a PIWIS system.
  18. 1 point
    Hi, Would anyone have a pdf version of the 2019 .2 3 RS owner's manual to share ? Thanks. Leong
  19. 1 point
    If the car starts okay then that party of the coding was done. As I recall programming the door locks is separate as well as the rear hatch.
  20. 1 point
    Perhaps this (from the service manual) will help...
  21. 1 point
    Just acquired my first Cayman, a 2012 R. First impressions are I love it, very impressed.
  22. 1 point
    Color codes front to rear are different. They are also different depending on RoW or US/Canada springs (ride height). They are also different depending on coupe or cabriolet -and whether you have a manual (6-speed) or Tiptronic.
  23. 1 point
    Maybe Durametric... if not then it will take a PIWIS tester. A few shops have PIWIS.
  24. 1 point
    Here are those part numbers.
  25. 1 point
    Hi to anyone who had this exact problem i have found a solution. after i changed my undamaged water pump and thermostat i got temp gauge dead and flashing. changed coolant sensor, to no avail. turns out that i needed to clear error codes with code reader and that instantly bought the gauge to life back to normal. 2.7 boxster 2001
  26. 1 point
    I believe there is an easy way to to disconnect the negative terminal without removing the seat, so you can disconnect the batteries and lock it manually before leaving the car parked for long periods of time. You may clamp the solar chargers directly to batteries as well, so you'll have decent charge when you get back. Also, I think the main thing you need to troubleshoot is whether the emergency start mode is operating at all, and whether it's putting the load on the aux battery when needed. Quick google search says you can get the car into "emergency start mode" by cycling the key 1-2 times all the way to left then right and it should start the car by getting a helping hand from the aux battery. If the emergency mode works and it turns on a relay/switch or some sort of solenoid, then it should be putting a load into a rear battery. I guess you just need to study the wiring diagram of the optional aux battery system, and test components using a multimeter to see if everything working. Some scenarios to test: Disconnect the front battery, try to start, and see what happens. Disconnect the rear battery, try to start, observe the behavior and any errors that might pop up Have both connected, but see if it is putting a load to rear battery like in the video below.
  27. 1 point
    Have you eliminated these possibilities from the manual? I know all sorts of things got funky on mine when it had a weak battery. Page: 153 The Auto Start Stop function is available with limited functionality in the following situations, for example: – If the air conditioning or passenger compartment heating is operated at a high setting or if the defrost function is run for long time periods. – If the battery charging condition is low. – On upward or downward slopes. – During internal vehicle test procedures, e.g. automatic engine checks.
  28. 1 point
    Have you checked the main and aux car batteries for proper voltage? An under-volt battery can cause weird things to happen. On my car it triggered Limp Mode which only allowed the trans to shift up to third gear.
  29. 1 point
    Well, that should not happen - changing the car battery should not affect the keys. Do the keys have good batteries? If all is okay then somehow the central locking and alarm module got confused and may need to be re-programmed.
  30. 1 point
    Sheet 19 in the MY2000.
  31. 1 point
    Well, after more than four decades, you pick up a thing or two, even if it is just the oil absorbed into your forehead. Hazelton is a bit north of us, about an hour or so. We are in an area so small that we don't even have our own post office, we borrow a neighboring communities PO. Eventually, we will be relocating to SC where I have a vacation home. I intend to keep my hand in with a small (read very small) shop at the house in SC were I will be taking in a couple of "projects" from time to time, but not on a full time basis (the Mrs. would have my head if I did).
  32. 1 point
    I had just read they moved it to under the dash right when you posted, thank you. Found out from the inspector that the car doesn't run cause.....it doesn't have a battery. DUH
  33. 1 point
    Have not been on this forum for a while since my 09 CTTS was super reliable. It has 250k km now and still drives like a dream. Loving it. I had the truck rear-ended by a Honda on the highway, the muffler and lower bumper were replaced. After taking it back from the Porsche body shop the truck was shaking badly at idle and the 1373, 0421,0431, 1352, 1377, 1378 codes showed up. Body shop claimed that it was not their responsibility. The truck had very rough idle and very noticeable ticking noise. I flushed the engine oil and nothing happened. After doing some research online, I replaced part #17 (Hydraulic Valve - Genuine Porsche G94810530803) on the driver side at my buddy's shop. It was held by 2 screws and was done from underneath the truck. Nothing else was removed other than the plastic panel under the car. Cleared the code and they never came back. Apparently, this valve is part of the VarioCam Plus that changes the opening heights of the lifters. Local Porsche dealer told me that these valves fail all the time. As a result, they have these parts in stock. Hope this would help fellow Cayenne owners.
  34. 1 point
    I do not know what scanner you are using but I do not have 1081 in any of my lists. Fix the problem you have and then clear the codes - drive the car - and re-check for faults.
  35. 1 point
    P1094 Implausible mass air flow ahead of the throttle valve
  36. 1 point
    A recall is for an issue with the potential to cause injury or death to the driver, passengers or surrounding people. Manufacturers look at recalls as a black eye. If they get serious ones like the Chevy ignition switch, you know there will be people lining up with personal injury attorneys waiting for their chance to sue Porsche for real, or imagined injuries. A recall is a last resource for a manufacturer. Some manufacturers - when faced with a potential recall will setup a "service campaign" where they fix the problem when a vehicle arrives in their shop. That's generally done at their expense (usually billing back part or all of the cost to the OE manufacturer who supplied them with the failing component, if they didn't build it themselves.) Toyota/Lexus love to do this - it's why my wife's Lexus gets dealer oil changes - there is almost always some issue that is addressed for free while the car is there getting the oil changed. NHTSA is where "recalls" in the USA come from. They have a website. There are forms on the website for reporting issues that have caused injury/death, or you feel have the potential to cause injury or death. If enough people make identical complaints about an issue - the issue will usually percolate up to the actual human employees of NHTSA who are in charge of investigating the reports. An example of this process working would be the "Camshaft-Controller-Recall" (Porsche's name for it.. I'd call it a Variocam recall..) In threads discussing this problem on several forums, instructions were given on how the reporting process works - and how to most effectively report an issue (several things have to be identical in order to build up the "mass" of reports that will trigger an investigation.) People did report the issue to NHTSA (not just complain on the forum) - and there were some very credible reports of close calls for serious injury since the failure could result in a vehicle with no brakes, power steering barreling down a freeway. The mass of reports was enough to catch the eye of a defect investigator, who then reached out to a few people asking for additional information. The information supplied to them was copies of recalls that Porsche had issued in other countries for the identical problem. At that point Porsche was notified of the investigation, and apparently felt it might be best to be pro-active in it - and they voluntarily issued a recall. Whew... so that's what has to be done if you expect a recall to happen. Some manufacturers avoid recalls by offering buyers an extended warranty on the part in question (BMW loves this - they've given out 100k engine guarantees on multiple engines any number of times - to avoid a recall.) The highest number I've seen on these extended warranties is typically 100k miles. BMW-Motorad (motorcycle side) has an extended warranty in place for 12 years, unlimited miles for a fuel gauge sender that regularly fails - and people run out of fuel on their motorcycle in risky conditions. That was done in response to a similar campaign that was coordinated on a BMW motorcycle club forum I'm a moderator/member of. NHTSA expressed interest in it (other manufacturers, both bike and car - have had recalls for similar failures.) BMW extended the warranty. So far - I've had about 10-11 of the fuel senders fail and replaced at no cost to me. I'd be much happier if they'd simply solve the problem though. So one other thing - a recall is only really a solution IF the manufacturer has devised a way to solve the problem. In the case of the transfer case - it's not clear that they have. This went on a bit longer than I thought it might when I started it. If it gives anyone ideas - I'd be happy to discuss the NHTSA process off-line with you. DISCLAIMER: I have nothing to do with NHTSA. The above ramblings may well be the spurious thoughts of a madman - or not. Use at your own risk. YMMV. LSMFT. I did stay in a Holiday Inn Express this past week though.
  37. 1 point
    I do have a complete set, which is the ECU, the kessy, the ignition lock, the steering lock still attached to the steering column and the key for a 2004 Cayenne S if someone is in need of getting going immediately. Email me at mrcbx@att.net if you need this, it will be cheaper than the dealer alternative, but please note this is for the V8 non-turbo only.
  38. 1 point
    Yesterday I installed a transgo shift kit while changing the oil in my 04 CS, It had hard shifts when cold and banging downshifts when hot. The oil that came out of the transmission was black with a redish tint and there wasnt much metal on the magnets. The shift kit install wasnt too hard to install, but I constantly thought it wasnt going to work right when i put it back together. After filling her up and reset the transmission, she shifts like a dream. She shifts so fast you cant even feel it. I was going to make a DIY post but it got to messy. Every time you take something off the transmission, fluid gushes out. Ill throw some pics up when i get home.
  39. 1 point
    Welcome to RennTech The foam coming out the vents are the seals from the heater box diverter door seals which have dried out and are starting to fall apart. To fully repair this, you need to disconnect and drop the heater box down (it is in the passenger's side under the dash), scrape off all the old seals and replace them. Some people have simply removed them, but that allows some mixing of different air streams in the system. Do a search on the topic, it has been written up on a couple of websites.
  40. 1 point
    In our modern litigious world, manufacturers have learned that they must advise the users of their product of everything that might hurt them by using the product no matter how stupid it is, so when the users do hurt themselves, blame the manufacturer, and demand compensation, the manufacturer can say they warned them. Thus everything these days from cars to coffee cups have warning stickers of some sort on them. So it is with airbags, and every car owner in the US is blessed with stickers on the sunvisor telling them to be careful. If you are like me, I got the message a while ago, and don't need to be reminded every time I pull down the sunvisor. So I decided to take the stickers off, and wanted to share my method of how I did it. The method I am describing will work with any sticker that is applied to a plastic or vinyl surface with the heat laminated decal process. This is what is used for the Porsche airbag warning label stickers. What you will need: 91% Isopropyl Alcohol – Common rubbing alcohol available from your local drug store. 3M General Purpose Adhesive Remover Some paper towels Vinyl Protectant such as Meguiars NXT Cockpit Shine Sunvisors Time to remove the 2 stickers from a sunvisor: less than 30 minutes. Process: 1. While this process can be done with the sunvisors in the car, it is best to remove them and do the removal on a flat surface. To remove a sunvisor, no tools are required. Simply twist and pull the sunvisor off of its pivot arm. It will slide right off. 2. It is best to remove the vanity mirror and light assembly from the visor. This is because the alcohol can run down inside the sunvisor, and if it is left there, it can discolor the plastic. I also put a piece of paper towel inside the assembly to catch excess alcohol. 3. Take a piece of paper towel and fold it to the size the sticker that you are removing. Wet the paper towel with the alcohol and place it on top of the sticker and let it sit for at least 10-15 minutes. Keep the paper towel wet, but not too wet that the alcohol runs off of the paper towel. WARNING: Don’t use any solvent stronger than Isopropyl Alcohol. Stronger solvents will discolor the vinyl and plastic that the sunvisor is made of! 4. After 10-15minutes the sticker decal will have softened, and is ready for removal. Using your fingernail, gently loosen the sticker on one end, and start pulling it off. Patience is the key here. Take your time, and gently pull off the sticker in one piece. If it starts to tear, and is still sticking to the sunvisor, back off, put the wet paper towel back on, and let it soak some more. You are doing it correctly when you can pull off the sticker in one piece. 5. After you have the sticker off, there will be a gummy residue left on the visor. Use the 3M General Purpose Adhesive Remover to get rid of that residue. When you can rub your hand or a rag over the sunvisor and it does not stick to it, you are done with that side. Because the decal is applied with heat, there is some distortion of the embossed grain on the vinyl side of the sunvisor. This will leave a faint outline of where the sticker was. Polishing the vinyl can minimize this outline. 6. Next do the other side, same process. 7. After you have removed the decals, and have cleaned the surface of residue, polish the visor with the Vinyl Protectant. 8. Put the vanity mirror back in the visor, and slide the sunvisor back onto its pivot rod. Step back and admire your work
  41. 1 point
    JFP I don't disagree with anything you said and no doubt damage can be done by using the wrong fluids or lubricants in any mechanical device, but once one understand the properties of the fluid(s) in question and they match or exceed the OE specs and performance there is no shame in using something other than OE. I am not sure what Porsche's current recommendation is but for quite a while they spec'd Mobil 1 0W-40 for all air-cooled 911s and you don't have to search very hard to find a large number of experts that will tell you there are superior engine oils for these air-cooled engines. Brake fluid is another example - why not use something like Motul 600, Castrol SRF or Endless RF650 (Porsche Cup car spec!) rather than generic not-made-by-Porsche Porsche-lebeled DOT 4? These special fluids might be more hygroscopic than the OE fluid, requiring more frequent changes, but one shouldn't be chastised for using any of these fluids in a Porsche because they certainly aren't inferior. I will continue searching until I find the OE manufacturer of the ATF that Porsche sticks their label on, then I will compare the specs to the other available options to determine what to use in my 958TT. If I find a fluid that I like better than the Porsche dealer fluid and it costs more than the Porsche fluid I will gladly buy it. Since you know these rigs well can you please confirm if the transmission is made by Aisin or ZF? Regards
  42. 1 point
    So, again in an effort to help others that might look for this in the future: 996 GT3, Airbag Light and Durametric fault " Code 30, ignition circuit - side airbag, passenger". Side airbag = door airbag: There was nothing wrong with it, the connector was good, and I also electrically swapped a spare airbag that I had, but the fault remained. Knowing the issue was coming from that circuit, and since I had disconnected the door and the controller when I stripped the car, I looked at both of those, looking for a bent pin, or? I expected the door connector to be the bad player since it's a bit less straightforward to connect and disconnect than the controller. While trying to identify the relevant pins on the big connector at the door jam to wring out the wires, I noticed that, with the connector off, the two pins/wires for the door airbag were shorted together (no doubt a shunt to prevent accidental airbag deployment when the connector is not connected). I also noticed that, in the connector, right next to the two pins, there was a small rectangular slot that matched a small plastic piece on the mating connector. At first I thought that it was an alignment device, but there was more to it than that, because there was a small piece of metal in the slot. While ohming the two airbag pins, I shoved a pick in the slot and suddenly, the two shorted pins/wires were no longer shorted, meaning that THE PLASTIC PIECE HAS TO BE ALL THE WAY INTO THE RECTANGULAR SLOT so that the circuit is in an acceptable state for the airbag controller. So again, even if the connector appears to be connected, you need more than just the pins to be in contact, you need the plastic tab to be all the way in to the slot. These pins and slot are part of a sub-connector within the main door connector and the sub-connector is somewhat free to move a bit. I made sure that it was all the way in and now my airbag light is gone. I'm sitting in the car with the laptop, having gone back in with the Durametric to clear the code, and decided to tell my story. Hopefully it can help someone. Case closed :)
  43. 1 point
    Working with the EPROM on Porsche Boxster - illustrated - old and new style clusters(1)-1.pdf Working with the EPROM on Porsche Boxster - illustrated - old and new style clusters(1)-1.pdf
  44. 1 point
    P2293 Fuel - high pressure Possible fault causes: - Predelivery quantity or pressure in fuel low pressure circuit too low - Pressure relief valve in high pressure circuit faulty - Fuel high pressure sensor faulty - Quantity control valve faulty (in fuel high pressure pump) - Fuel high pressure pump faulty - High pressure injector(s) (fuel injector(s)) faulty
  45. 1 point
    I change the driver side fuel pump (primary) last week end. If you need to drive the car and avoid to pay a towing, just remove the #1 pump relay in the engine compartment fuse box. You need a torx 30 because the relay is located in the hidden part right next to the firewall. If your car starts and stall in less than 30 secs... Remove the key, remove the #1 fuel pump relay, then restart the car. If the car still running after 30 secs, like me your primary fuel pump is defect. By doing this, the computer think there is no fuel on left side and run the secondary pump !!! I drove the cayenne about 60 miles with the second pump to the dealer to buy the fuel pump, small pipe and 2 seal because you need to open both side under the seat. The fuel pump have many pipe attached to it with different size and lenght to avoid bad connection. Two pipes are running from left to right. The job is not easy but you need to do it when the tank is almost empty or use a manual pump like me. Do it outside, the smell is horrible and take a tylenol. Dont forget to clean the fuel filter on the top plate driver side, I never seen so much black dirt in a small filter... I clean it 8 times in fuel bowl and reinstall it. I suspect dirt filter may cause the pump problem. To remove the bolt under the seat use M10 and they are very very tight and this is probably the biggest job to do. Then have a beer and congratulate you for saving 1,000$. I have all the pdf very helpfull if you want it, let me know.
  46. 1 point
    If you look at the picture on the prior page it was frayed exactly where the red felt pads were placed. That's were a small part was cut out by the dealer. To add to the renewed discussion, i'd been meaning to send in some pics of the fix on what the end result was that rid me of this little niggle. It was as simple as purchasing some felt tape (or equivalent) and working it around the area to reduce the friction. This is how it currently looks: - I just had to be sure that all surfaces that the strap is in contact with were sufficiently covered to prevent any contact with the plastic. Other than that and how always it's the case, a pain to discover but simple to remedy. Regards Pop OMG. This is by FAR the best thread I've read. For 2 years now i've had this very exact cracking noise and nobody (dealers) knew where it came from. It just tried your fix and it took all of 5 minutes and 2 bucks. Sound is now GONE. Pop. i think i love you. LOL
  47. 1 point
    P0171 Oxygen Sensing Adaptation, Idle Range, Bank 1 – Above Limit P0174 Oxygen Sensing Adaptation, Idle Range, Bank 2 – Above Limit Possible fault causes: - Incorrect signal from MAF sensor - Intake air system leaking - Fuel pressure too low - Volume supply of fuel pump too low - Fuel injectors fouled - PCV valve leaks - Cap of oil filler neck not closed correctly or seal is damaged Looks like you have a leak...
  48. 1 point
    I found it hard to believe as well, until i dug a little deeper. Turns out, theres this option for something LIKE a LSD... on cars with the stability management option, apparently the computer already has alot of control over the brakes. so what it can do is take constant measurements of both rear wheels, and apply a tweak of brake to the spinning one. on a conventional open differential, this makes more torque goto the other wheel. it does this so fast and so well, if you dump the clutch (with PSM off) it will leave two black marks... if you have one wheel off in the sand and the other on the road, you wont get stuck, etc... but heres the nicer part.. at higher speeds, (45mph according to Lorens post above) it doesnt do it.. so you can get the excelent high speed cornering of an open diff, while still being able to snap the back around with the throttle when autocrossing... just like a LSD. add to that, the open diff weighs less..(and its rotating mass) and the system adds no weight, as the hardware already must exist for the ABS... it becomes a software-only upgrade at that point. its a very cool little feature.
  49. 1 point
    Note: Part numbers sometimes change without notice. Always double check with your supplier that you have the latest part numbers. Parts you will need: 1 ea 996 110 131 52 Air Filter or equal (BMC or K&N Filter) Tools you will need: 13 mm socket or wrench Regular screwdriver Phillips screwdriver Remove hexagon-head bolt M6 x 34. (13 mm wrench) Loosen the hose clamp on the throttle body and remove the connection of the sucking jet pumps (not present on early cars). Pull connecting plug off the mass air flow sensor by squeezing the connector clips. Then unclip the cable on the air cleaner housing. Subsequently unclip the oil filler snorkel. Remove the whole air cleaner housing out of the engine compartment. Unscrew the 7 (phillips) fastening screws on the air cleaner housing and remove the upper part of the air cleaner. Subsequently remove the cleaner element. Clean air cleaner housing. Insert new filter element and replace the upper part of the air cleaner housing (BMC filter shown). Tighten the 7 fastening screws. Place the air cleaner housing in the engine compartment again. Make sure that the rubber mount of the air cleaner housing is still seated in the body. Tighten the air cleaner housing with the fastening screw M6 x 34, the screw is tightened with 7.5 ft-lb. Clip in oil filler neck again.. Reconnect the intake pipes on the throttle body. Retighten the hose clamp. Subsequently insert the connection for the sucking jet pump (again, if present) and mount the spring band clamp. Fit the connecting cable and clip into the holder on the air cleaner. Push the connecting plug on the mass air flow sensor.
  50. 1 point
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