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Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 12/25/2018 in all areas

  1. 3 points
    Note: Part numbers sometimes change without notice. Always double check with your supplier that you have the latest part numbers. (Special thanks to Chuck Jones for being the guinea pig and for taking the photos.) Parts you will need: 997.624.113.00 Actuator Tools you will need: Very short Torx T20 driver and right angle ratchet or tool to use the short T20 in a very confined space Regular screwdriver, phillips screw driver, and 10 mm wrench to remove th wheel well liner 1. Jack the car so that right front wheel is off the ground and secure it with a jack stand. Remove the right front wheel. 2. Remove the wheel well liner by removing the the plastics rivets (pry them out with a regular screwdriver). As well remove the 10 mm nuts on each side of the axle. Now remove the phillips screws that fasten the wheel well liner under the front bumper and remove the wheel well liner (and set aside). 3. Locate the EVAP canister and remove the electrical connection at the top of the canister. Now remove the 10 mm nut that holds the canister in place. Remove gas the vapor lines - one at the top and one at the bottom (again by squeezing the connectors). Remove the EVAP canister by pulling gently back and forth until it releases from the rubber gromments 4. Look back up under the fender (now that the canister is out of the way) and locate the broken actuator. Now using the stubby Torx T-20 loose (but do not remove) the two T-20 screws. The actuator itself is a bit tough to get to and you will need a really short T-20 Torx head to loosen the two screws. I say loosen because that is all you need to do to remove the part - it sits in two "U" shaped slots. Remove the electrical connector (by squeezing the tab). Here is a pic of the new part - as you see the Torx screws are already in place so that is all you have to do to replace it. 5. Put the new part in place making sure you feed the emergency pull line through the fender to its location in the door jam. There is room to slide it through the side so you don't need to try and thread it through the hole. Fasten the two Torx screws and reconnect the electrical connector. Chuck's car had the guide rose guide piece missing (so he needed to order one) Here is a pic of his car (without guide rose) and my car (with guide rose). Ref. P/N 997.624.505.00 We also noticed that on his car the plastic catch for the lock was missing (so he needed to order that too). Here is a pic of his car (without cap) and my car (with cap). Ref. P/N 996.201.243.00 6. Reinstall the EVAP canister by pushing it into place on the rubber gromments. Then reattach the vapor lines (they should snap back into place) and the electrical connection. Finally put the 10 mm nut back in place and tighten down. 7. Reinstall the wheel well liner (reverse of removal). 8. Mount the tire, lower the car and re-torque the wheel bolts. Done.
  2. 2 points
    The horn beeps and lights flashing is the alarm system telling you there is a alarm system zone fault somewhere. Could be an open (or maybe in this case closed/locked when it should be open) zone. Zones are: drivers/passenger doors, trunk lid, engine lid, glass (targa) top, gas cap lid, center console lid, and if you have it the glove box door. There are also two interior sensors in the overhead that detect motion when the car is locked. I think getting to the battery and disconnecting is a good idea. However, you have a problem since the trunk is not opening. First thing to try is actually seeing if the trunk is already open. Put your fingers under the trunk lid and try pulling up. Second is to locate the emergency release cable under the passenger side headlight. Unfortunately you need to pop the headlight out to make this a simple exercise, and you can't do that without opening the trunk. So you have to pull the passenger wheel well liner and fish out the cable from behind. Hopefully your wheel lock socket is not in your trunk!
  3. 2 points
    LONG STORY SHORT,,...My entry and drive system went bad one day., after almost a year of testing , replacing the battery, buying the test tool, almost brought a china piwis ,.... and bringing it to dealer and 800 dollars of dealer time., I had it fixed for 5 Dollars in parts. and one hr of soldering at first my kessy do not communicate to the darmatic tool or PIWIS at all, the dealer went ahead try to replace it , with a superseeded module, HOWEVER they wasn't able to program it for unknown reason, there is no module out there that will take my car's pin and complete the marry process because they said all the module has been superceeded. The dealer offer me to replace ALL the module in the car to an updated version for a cheapo $3000 dollars.! OF COURSE I refused,. ...,. I only lost my alarm horn , entry and drive function and its not worth $3000 dollars,. I was investigating myself trying to see what causing the problem, I came in to the touareg forum and found out those guys there have a lot of the problems with their module too. ... I was like ,hum.,,. then go under my dash and found the kessy module that is EXACTLY the same as theirs including the part number (WHICH IS A VW part number stamped on a sticker btw).... there is one guy there that took his module to a local electrician and found he has 2 fried mofset and 6 fried resistors.!!! I was like, fxxx it, why don't I give it a try, at first I couldn't found the 0.22ohm resistors (its was HARD trust me I took almost 2 months looking for them)., so I went ahead replaced the two mofset........... 15 mins and a lot of smoke later....... MAN,,,... the module can communicate with my Durametic tool...! HOWEVER,, all the antennas are reporting short to ground ERROR!!! I tried to clear it but the code come back instantly. then I went on to test the resistor value,... and found all six of the 0.22ohm resistors are SHORT (they are fusible resistor btw)....,,. sooooo I tried my best and finally able to locate those 0.22 ohm resistor .., fast forward 2 months later............ I received those resistors today.............. another 15 mins of smoke and sweat with my resoldering station... I plug the module back... run the scan tool clean the fault codes!!!!................... moment of truth,, I plug my dummy key in to the key cyclinder with the real key in my pocket!!!!!!!!!!!!! turn and the CAR STARTS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I have successfully fixed a $3000 dollars repair (that don't guarantee will work) with 5 dollars worth of resistors !!!!!! NOTE: IF your kessy don't communicate with the scan tool,. Its the TWO MOFSET that is Fried. if you have all antennas short to ground or not responding its the 6 resistors!
  4. 2 points
    Updated Mileage: 288,565. 2018 Round trips included NY to Seattle and NY to New Orleans. Still not driving as much as I'd like. #4 cylinder down to 75%. Trying to hold out to 300k before rebuild.
  5. 2 points
  6. 2 points
    I think you need option 666 or 619 for Bluetooth phone. 619 can be retrofitted, which is less expensive than 666. By the way, you can't update the system to v2.24 in one step. You have to update to v2.23 first. Your dealer should know this. I would try to find one who knows what they are doing. The 619 Mobile phone preparation retrofit involves fitting an additional microphone and entering an activation code for the Bluetooth using a PIWIS tester.
  7. 2 points
    15-year-old car - absolutely yes. Best to change every 5 years.
  8. 2 points
    Just in case anyone comes across this thread trying to solve unstable idle issues, bigbuzuki was on the right track. I replaced the vapor canister purge valve, pretty easy and inexpensive, and the crankcase breather check valve, even easier. the purge valve may have been a contributor, but the check valve was the main culprit. What is interesting here is that all of my ventilation hoses were intact and without leaks, but if you peered inside the removed check valve, you could clearly see that the membranes inside had completely disintegrated. That immediately did the trick.
  9. 2 points
    EDIT: Additional info added at bottom of tutorial, refers to recently found info, clarifying how many different fluids are needed for the 970 generation of Panamera PDK (at end of tutorial). Attached is a DIY for changing fluid on Panamera PDK transmission. Got this from a fellow forum member who happened to do the change. This should help many interested in doing maintenance on Panamera without paying thousands for it. Speaking to shop/dealer, after 60k, filter/pan replacement not absolutely necessary (cost of the kit is about $350). So for 60k, drain and refill fluid is fine. At 120k, you would do same fluid change, but this time replace the pan/filter as well. Read the entire DIY before you start to get a good idea of requirements and estimate time involvement for you to complete. Do not forget to replace the drain plug with its built in seal. Last thing you need is have a $15 part cause small leaking, and then have to put car up, open up drain plug, lose a bunch of expensive oil, just to put new drain plug in. So dont cut on this one part. You can get the Pentosine FFL3 PDK fluid directly from Porsche, or from Pentosine resellers. Porsche will charge you triple the price for identical fluid. You choose. Everything you need is mentioned in the DIY. Since Durametric does not have capability to monitor PDK temperature yet, you can use an IR thermometer, when you heat up the PDK to 40 celsius, after you put in 6-8 quarts or so, and when doing final level check. Good luck. 970 generation Panamera PDK transmission info: ZF is manufacturer of PDK transmission for Porsche They make 2 PDK transmissions One for mid & rear engine applications (911, boxter, etc) Another one specifically made for the Panamera Panamera PDK servicing requires two (2) fluids only (as compared to 3 fluids in other PDK car models at Porsche FFL3 fluid - Gearbox & clutches - need about 9 quarts Shell TF0951 - Front final drive - need about 0.4 quarts Here is the info dug up from ZF on this topic: "In fact, two separate DCT ranges or 'platforms' have been developed by ZF, both fitted with wet clutches, for use in Porsche's various longitudinal applications. The first is for use in the mid- and rear-engine sports cars (the 911, the Cayman and the Boxster), while a completely different platform has been developed for use in the larger Panamera. For each platform, two different torque options are available, with the 500N.m versions using an 'ND2015' clutch pack, and the 780N.m versions using an 'ND2216' clutch pack, both supplied by ZF Sachs....... In terms of the oil circuit itself, two completely different approaches have been employed for the two platforms. Non Panamera models: The 7DT45 and 7DT70 have two oil circuits, and hence two different oils; the first is Pentosin FFL-3 for the clutch and hydraulics, and the second is ExxonMobil Mobilube PTX 75W-90 for the gear-set and bevel gear. The oil levels have been kept as low as possible, to reduce churning losses for those moving parts that are immersed in oil. Panamera: Conversely, the 7DT75 has a single oil circuit and a dry sump (to minimize churning losses), with an 'active lubrication system' to feed oil to each gear-set and clutch. This version uses only the Pentosin FFL-3 lubricant, which was developed exclusively for the ZF DCTs. One of the main reasons for using a single oil circuit is that clutch cooling is required at both ends of the transmission, for the main dual-clutch module and for the hang-on clutch used in the four-wheel-drive variant. This would have presented significant sealing complications had multiple circuits been chosen." Bottom line: What this means is that the Panamera PDK uses transmission design which uses one fluid compartment for the gearbox and the clutches, and another separate compartment for the final drive. Two fluids total.
  10. 2 points
    It seems that there are more and more cases of these faults appearing, and as some of our cars are reaching 10-12 years old, it is hardly surprising. I've compiled this information from past personal experience on both of my 996s, reading about others on here and other forums, referring to the workshop manual and wiring diagrams, and applying some logic. Hopefully you might find it useful, and save some grief when troubleshooting. DOOR MICROSWITCHES There are seven microswitches in each door which control the alarm system. Two are separate switches: a] One on the outside door handle. This switch is used to sense that the handle is lifted. b] One on the inside door handle, which has the same function. When the car is unlocked and either handle is lifted, this signals the alarm control module (ACM) to lower the appropriate window by 10mm, and turn on the interior lights. As soon as the door opens, another switch inside the door lock (explained later) tells the ACM that the door is open, which holds the window down until the door is closed, when the window is raised, and the dimming timer on the interior lights is started. Once the car is locked, the outside handle switches are ignored by the ACM. The remaining five switches are inside the door lock assembly: c] One switch senses if the door is open or closed. d] One senses that the key has been turned to the 'lock' position. e] Another senses that the key has been turned to the 'unlock' position. f] One senses that the door lock motor has reached the 'lock' position. g] Another senses that the door lock motor has reached the 'unlock' position. TYPICAL FAULTS All these microswitches can be problematic, and it is common for one or more to fail at some time. These are some of the common failures and symptoms: 1) The door window won't drop when lifting a handle. This is usually the handle microswitch which has failed. 2) The window drops, but goes back up when the door opens, or when the handle is released. This can be the handle microswitch, or more likely the 'door open/closed microswitch' ( c ) has stuck. Because the system thinks the door is still closed, it sends the window back up. 3) Door window won't go up the last 10mm. This is likely to be the 'door open/closed microswitch' ( c ) stuck in the opposite sense to (2). The system thinks the door is still open, so won't allow the window to go back up. Note that in this case the door will still lock, but you may get a single-beep from the alarm horn. 4) Door will not lock with key. The 'key lock' microswitch (d) is broken. This is very rare, as this microswitch is hardly ever used – most times the car is locked by remote. 5) Door will not unlock with key. The 'key lock' microswitch (e) is broken. This is also very rare, for the same reason. 6) Door locks, and then immediately unlocks, usually accompanied by a double-beep from the alarm horn. This is the 'door locked' microswitch (f). The locking motor physically operates the door lock, but the microswitch to sense this has failed/stuck. The ACM promptly unlocks the car. In this case, the only way to lock the door is to use the emergency locking procedure. Turn the key in the door to the lock position and back three times in quick succession. 7) The door unlocks, but there is a beep or double-beep from the alarm horn. This is the 'door unlocked' microswitch (g). Although the door is unlocked, the ACM has not recognised that. The alarm will not sound, as turning the key in the lock has deactivated it. FIXES The inside and outside handle microswitches are available separately, and are not too expensive. Although alternative equivalent switches may be available, the genuine Porsche switch comes with a connector and wiring, so it makes sense to use an original. Part Numbers: Inside handle microswitch: 996.613.123.00 (Same both sides) Outside handle microswitch: 996.613.125.00 (Left) / 996.613.126.00 (Right) The door lock microswitches are not available separately. You have to buy the complete door lock assembly, at a cost of around $120. It has been known for people to repair the offending switch though. This is a picture of a typical failure of a 'door open/close' microswitch (courtesy of another RennTech member): You can see that the plastic plunger has broken, jamming the switch lever inside. These switches are (apparently) made by Burgess, but as yet the source and part number are unknown. There are several other similar standard switches on the market for around $2, and people have stripped down the new switch and rebuilt the old one with the plunger from the new one. OTHER SWITCHES IN THE ALARM SYSTEM The other switches and contacts in the alarm system are to monitor the lid closures: Front lid microswitch Rear lid microswitch Oddment compartment microswitch Glove box microswitch Radio contact (to detect radio theft) An open compartment or switch failure will cause a single-beep of the alarm horn on locking. A system error will cause a double-beep. Other elements of the system include an interior monitoring sensor (in the overhead lighting), an alarm readiness light (on the dashboard in the centre) and a central locking button (on the dashboard). Options are a tilt sensor (next to the battery or under the left-hand seat) and an alarm siren (next to the battery).
  11. 2 points
    I got sick of not having cupholders in my Boxster. So I set out to find some. The options seemed to be OEM cupholders, either the clip on type, or the single DIN type. And we all know the problems with those - not secure enough fit, not accommodating large cups, etc. Also, the DIN type takes up an entire vertical DIN slot, making fitting double DIN GPS impossible. Other solutions seem to be to use a cutout for cups in the centre console box - which means the lid needs to stay open; and "ultimate cupholder" - which doesn't look OEM at all. So I was searching for generic cupholders on Ebay, and found this: http://cgi.ebay.com....=item439b780b6e And from a seller, the dimensions are: 7 7/16" long by 1" just the cover lid, assembly is 7" x 4 3/4" The width is as close to OEM fit for the Boxster as it gets, for a non-Porsche part! So I bought it. Realising that late model VWs like Passat and Jetta has the same console width as our Boxster, I then bought this: http://cgi.ebay.com....=item3ca672b7af It's entirely possible that other units like this http://cgi.ebay.com....=item3356ef534c would also fit. And before you start, get a rotary tool (like a Dremel). It's an absolute god send! Made things so easy. Here is the unit: Compared to another double DIN unit I originally planned for the mod: The difference is the newer one has a hi res screen. I actually rather liked the volume knob on the low res one. I put the cupholder and GPS unit together, with double sided tape, like this: You can also mount the cupholder on top, like this: I chose to go with the bottom fit, because I don't really like cups placed that high, and the bottom fit actually takes up a few mm less in height, which gives a better fit in the horseshoe frame. Speaking of frame, it's cut up, like this: There was a lip on the inner aspect of the lower border, this was cut to make room to increase the height. This, together with some slight sanding of the bottom of the cupholder was all that's required to make the height of the combo fit just right. Incredibly lucky! Note, you must get rid of the lower lip much as you can. Or the cupholder would be clamped too tight between the frame and the GPS, and it doesn't open when clamped tight. In the above picture, you can see I turned the OEM metal bracket around. This was necessary as the cupholder doesn't extend as deep as the OEM stereo, so the bracket support needs to come forward. You need to drill a hole in the original bracket to allow this. The reason will be very apparent when you actually do this. Here is a close up of the reversed bracket: The GPS antenna is simply placed near the alarm cover. Remove the alarm cover first, thread the GPS wire through, then just fish for it through the horseshoe frame. No need to remove anything else to place the GPS antenna. The thick wire attached to the GPS wire is the loom for my Head-Up-Display (another mod, for another day) :) The rest of the wiring here, with the unit ready to be pushed in: Here is the test fit: You can see that I will need a "n" shaped bezel to fill out the gap. This was obtained by modifying the Passat bezel that came with the GPS. The width is an exact fit, just like the cupholder (maybe 1mm longer, but I just left it). So I just sanded down the top border of the frame. And cut off the bottom border. I don't have a picture with the bottom border removed, only with the thinned top border: Press it in, it's a snug fit, not even sticky taped. And voooowwlaahhh!!!! OEM look!! From afar: With cupholder open: With a large "cup": In summary, get a genuine Jetta cupholder and an aftermarket Passat double DIN GPS! (not affliated with the seller/s, I promise) :)
  12. 2 points
    If your battery is dead and you need to get into the front trunk, it may be necessary to locate the manual pull wire to open the front trunk and get to the battery. This might be more difficult to locate the first time. You may not be in a good location to wrestle the right front tire splash guard to find it. It might be night time or you may not be dressed in the correct clothes to be down by the tires trying to locate it. I would recommend that you take the time to locate it in good weather and in the comfort of your garage or better yet re-route the wire to the front bumper behind the plastic plug the hides the location for the tow fish eye bolt. To get started I removed the carpet liner in the front trunk. The front trunk liner is made up of 2 sections and I only had to remove the front section. There was one thumbscrew clip on the passenger side and one thumbscrew clip opposite on the driver's side. Also on the driver's side there was one snapin clip and 2 additional snapin clips located in the front of the trunk. All five clips are very easy to find and remove. I then removed the plastic trim directly on top of the front trunk latch and microswitch. There are 4 screw plugs and you simply turn the plastic plugs 1/4 to 1/2 of a turn: I then removed the passenger side head lamp by using the tool in the Boxster tool kit. The kit is usually located near the spare tire in the front trunk. Turn the wrentch about 1/2 turn counter clockwise to unlock the headlamp. Slide the head lamp out. You may have to jiggle it a little but it should slide out with very little effort. Once the light is out you will be able to locate the pull wire. It is clamped into a lasso at the end. In the photo below you can see it at the end of the red arrow. The red oval in the top of the photo is the plastic wheel splash guard. The passenger front tire is directly behind that. Some recommend to access the pull wire from the tire side but that is a little more difficult and you still have the problem of trying to re-rout the wire up to the front bumber. Doing it from the head lamp side makes it easy. Here is another photo with my finger pointing at the pull wire. Remove the front bumper plastic cover that hides the tow plug. I used a plastic upholstery tool and the plastic cap popped right out. The plug has a fishline wire connected to it to prevent you from losing it. Use the light from a flashlight to guide you (from the front bumber side) and re-route the pull wire from the headlight to the tow plug. Having the top plastic guard off makes this very easy. Tuck the pull wire back in and re-insert the pastic bumber plug. Reassembly is just the reverse. Slide the headlamp back into the guides and push it home, use the wrentch and turn clock wise. you will hear a loud pop when the headlamp is secured. You know have easy access to the emergency pull wire.
  13. 1 point
    Are you sure you have not already moved it enough for the alternator right side to come up? Pull right side bolt all the way out and see if you can lift the right side up and out. It might be a little bit of a struggle but if it moves up you can get it out. I remember I had to go back and forth a few times, bolt in and whack, bolt out and try to lift, bolt back in and whack even harder, bolt out and test lift again.
  14. 1 point
    Possibly the rear window defroster connector for the hard top?
  15. 1 point
    As noted above, P1484 is an indication of high pressure in the EVAP system, an indication that the EVAP system is not working correctly; it does not necessarily mean you should change out a $300+ module until you have determined that it is actually bad. The EVAP system is supposed to get rid of excess fuel vapor into the intake system to burn it off, the leak detection module periodically tests the EVAP system to make sure it is not leaking. The code indicates that the EVAP system pressure is too high, which may be the module, but often is not. The normal way of testing the module is with a smoke test unit to make sure it is closed when it is supposed to be. The attached is the function diagram for the same module on a BMW; as they all work the same way, this should help you understand how this unit functions: How the leak detection module functions
  16. 1 point
    I received a call from Jake and he said they started assembly work on the motor this week. Right on schedule with the dates he gave me back in August. Pictures coming soon.
  17. 1 point
    Get the CEL code again and post. Before you proceed, either DIY or shop, we can help you narrow this down. I certainly would want to know specifically and exactly that this is the problem before chasing ghosts and replacing parts. Also, what year and model? Other recent maintenance or problems? There are other valves and components in the evap system to consider. See here Carbon Canister WWW.AUTOATLANTA.COM
  18. 1 point
  19. 1 point
    999 631 147 90 - Bulb 3W 996 731 531 01 01C - Mirror glass with frame (satin black)
  20. 1 point
    Regarding the repaired brake vacuum hose. I wasn't able to talk to the technician after all, but did take a look under the top engine cover. The vacuum line runs from the inlet manifold right through to the servo located under the front bonnet (trunk). I wasn't able to see where the repair was made - it could have been anywhere along this line. Perhaps the line wasnt properly connected to the inlet manifold? Its a sizable pipe and made of tough material - not easy to damage. Good hunting - if you think this could be your problem.
  21. 1 point
  22. 1 point
    I just completed a similar job. I used a ball joint separator to press the studs out. All 6 studs out in less than 10 minutes!
  23. 1 point
    I changed the oil on my 2012.5 Carrera S yesterday and now the engine lid will not open. I did knock the cable loose while pulling out the intake, but I thought I put the ball end of the cable back into place. The actuator operates but the cable doesnt release the latch. I looked all over the place for an emergency release cable but could not locate one. Is it possible to use a screw driver to release the latch? Suggestions are welcome!
  24. 1 point
    Per the photos on Pelican of those two hoses, it looks like the one ending with "-05", which includes the small T nipple section.
  25. 1 point
    It's part #18 here. There are multiple versions depends on your year and model. http://www.autoatlanta.com/porsche-parts/hardparts.php?dir=996-99-05&section=105-05
  26. 1 point
    I just installed a Pioneer AVH-2440NEX, Metra 99-9604b dash kit and Scosche LPPE15 wiring interface from Crutchfield in my 2005 Cayenne. Absolutely terrific sound. Existing amplifier and subwoofer work great. I highly recommend using their $25 ReadyHarness Service tp pre-wire everything. Like others in this forum, I needed to trim the dash plate to get a nice flush mount. The USB AUX adapter from Amazon fits perfectly in an unused dash hole. Total installation was was less than $700. $350 for the radio and about the same for the harnesses. The Axxess ASWC-1 steering wheel control adapter is not needed. A 3.5m plug on the adapter fits in the back of the radio and gives steering wheel volume and track control.
  27. 1 point
    First of all, try disconnecting the battery to see if it changes anything. If you jack up the car and have all 4 wheels off the pavement(safely), do the rear wheels move by hand in neutral? Check the driveshaft, rear diff while you have the wheels off the ground. Are the calipers stuck? Take off the calipers to see if the problem still there. Maybe parking brake cable not releasing at all. According to a parts diagram, parking brake shoes are inside the rear brake rotors. If the parking brake is ON, it's really hard to remove rear rotors. So if you already have the rear calipers off from the previous step, then try taking off the rear rotors and inspect the operation of parking brake. GL
  28. 1 point
    Broken wire, shorted wire, blown fuse, bad DME.
  29. 1 point
    Yes, those will fit on a narrow body car. I have them on mine.
  30. 1 point
    Loren, you absolute star. 😊🤩😎
  31. 1 point
    Sheet 19 in the MY2000.
  32. 1 point
    I am in PA, and owned my shop for many years, but recently have sold the main business to retire (at 72 years, you get tired of oil dripping in your face).
  33. 1 point
    I had just read they moved it to under the dash right when you posted, thank you. Found out from the inspector that the car doesn't run cause.....it doesn't have a battery. DUH
  34. 1 point
    I had this same issue and the fault was the magnets on the circuit board under the shift lever the circuit board had cracked allowing the magnets to get out of alignment and send false signals
  35. 1 point
    Sorry to be bringing up an old thread but just looking for some clarification on this one and trying to understand the nomenclature. Seeing that the deviation of bank one is off by 12 degrees Crk , but the actual angle read at idle is 1.1 degrees. Would it be fair to say the engine is working "full on " to adapt this car to try and maintain the 1.1 at idle and 25.94 at 2K ? just helping a friend with P1397 problem so got me interested in the whole theory of operation. The car we are working on is a 99 996 so has DME 5.2.2 . we can see deviation but 5.2.2 does not show actual ( unless I just cant see it ) which is a bit disappointing. I wanted to see if it jumps to 25 when actuating variocam but without seeing actual we wont know. Thanks
  36. 1 point
    Glad to hear you got it sorted without splitting the case!
  37. 1 point
    Thanks again for finding that out for me. I kept fiddling with it for a couple of days in order to not have to split the cases and got it right in the end by locking the IMS by using a hex socket in it's rear end while rotating the crankshaft to make the chain sort itself out! I got lucky this time. This forum is great, so many more educational tips as compared to most other online forums!
  38. 1 point
    Serpentine belt replacement eventually, air filters. Brake service (new fluid every 2 years). In Dubai I can keep extending the warranty which covers pretty much everything else (this year a coolant cap, some valves in the cooling system, and a cup holder repair under warranty). Oh and tires. Compared to my M car it’s got a lot let plastic bits so should bode well for longevity. Last point is forget about it as a DYI car. Taking the bumper off to get to the engine isn’t conducive to tinkering. Mine is a 2012 CS with 47000 miles. Added a duck tale and GTS front spoiler as a hommage to older 911 cars. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  39. 1 point
    Thanks for the PN! Doesn't look very expensive, my local dealership has it for $26 and the o-ring is less than $2. I think the thermostat is on the back of the 3.2 V6 but for the 3.6 V6 the thermostat is on the side of the engine (driver side). I know this because I replaced it during my cooling system refresh at 90k miles. However, there does seem to be a housing for something back there, I'm just not sure what it is..
  40. 1 point
    JFP I don't disagree with anything you said and no doubt damage can be done by using the wrong fluids or lubricants in any mechanical device, but once one understand the properties of the fluid(s) in question and they match or exceed the OE specs and performance there is no shame in using something other than OE. I am not sure what Porsche's current recommendation is but for quite a while they spec'd Mobil 1 0W-40 for all air-cooled 911s and you don't have to search very hard to find a large number of experts that will tell you there are superior engine oils for these air-cooled engines. Brake fluid is another example - why not use something like Motul 600, Castrol SRF or Endless RF650 (Porsche Cup car spec!) rather than generic not-made-by-Porsche Porsche-lebeled DOT 4? These special fluids might be more hygroscopic than the OE fluid, requiring more frequent changes, but one shouldn't be chastised for using any of these fluids in a Porsche because they certainly aren't inferior. I will continue searching until I find the OE manufacturer of the ATF that Porsche sticks their label on, then I will compare the specs to the other available options to determine what to use in my 958TT. If I find a fluid that I like better than the Porsche dealer fluid and it costs more than the Porsche fluid I will gladly buy it. Since you know these rigs well can you please confirm if the transmission is made by Aisin or ZF? Regards
  41. 1 point
    This was done on a 996 but the 986 Boxster is exactly the same... Replacing the Gas/Fuel Door Actuator
  42. 1 point
    Yes, the Tip controller can not switch the valve if it is off (fuse removed) - nor can the vacuum valve switch with the engine off.
  43. 1 point
    Procedure to initialize steering column 1. Switch on ignition 2. Use seat adjustment to tilt backrest completely forward ( as far as the stop) 3. Keep switch pressed in this position ( approx. 5 seconds ) until you hear a signal tone on the instrument cluster. The control unit is initialized.
  44. 1 point
    So here are a couple of snaps. I have my headliner out if anyone needs a specific shot of anything just ask. At the back of the sunroof frame is a drain. It has a bit of a reservoir then the tube to the back of the car. I sat inside the car while a buddy with a hose sprayed the roof of the car. No water came in. So i moved the car onto an incline and water started to drip. (Don't park on an incline, is the only answer i can come up with) If the reservoir gets too much water then it will leak over the frame and onto your headliner. I am going to go full black alcantara for the interior of the PIG. So more pics will follow. Interestingly one of my drain tubes is blue. The others grey. Carfax was clean, so no real idea as to why this was changed. Although when it rains and rains i have water when i open up my rear drivers side door. Attached is a picture of the plastic piece where the drains hook up to. I wanted to make sure this was 100% clean so i took it out. You can see the factory sealant that was displaced when i removed it.
  45. 1 point
    I found it hard to believe as well, until i dug a little deeper. Turns out, theres this option for something LIKE a LSD... on cars with the stability management option, apparently the computer already has alot of control over the brakes. so what it can do is take constant measurements of both rear wheels, and apply a tweak of brake to the spinning one. on a conventional open differential, this makes more torque goto the other wheel. it does this so fast and so well, if you dump the clutch (with PSM off) it will leave two black marks... if you have one wheel off in the sand and the other on the road, you wont get stuck, etc... but heres the nicer part.. at higher speeds, (45mph according to Lorens post above) it doesnt do it.. so you can get the excelent high speed cornering of an open diff, while still being able to snap the back around with the throttle when autocrossing... just like a LSD. add to that, the open diff weighs less..(and its rotating mass) and the system adds no weight, as the hardware already must exist for the ABS... it becomes a software-only upgrade at that point. its a very cool little feature.
  46. 1 point
    Yeah your bank 1 cat is totally shot. Check out the graph for bank 2. See how the red line (indicating o2 sensor after cat) is nice and flat. This mean your cat is working and oxidizing the exhaust gasses. Notice how the graph for bank 1 the lines are almost the same. This means the o2 sensor in front of the cat and behind the cat are reading almost the exact same thing. AKA... your cat isnt doing jack ****.
  47. 1 point
    Posted this on the 986 forum, thought I'd share it here... here's the link to the 986forum.com post in case there might be any relevant discussions 986 forum DIY
  48. 1 point
    New to this forum and seeing if there is something different outside the 356 Registry. I run a small website dedicated to the 356 and thought it might be of some value to the members here. http://www.cyberwerkstatt.com Check it out and let me know if it is helpful. ed www.cyberwerkstatt.com
  49. 1 point
    Are you sure you are holding the trunk lock release button down long enough. It takes about 2-3 seconds to work. I know I made the mistake of thinking it was like the buttons for all my other cars until someone pointed out to me the difference by design. It ios mentioned in the Owner's Manual but is easy to overlook.
  50. 1 point
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