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Showing content with the highest reputation since 01/15/2019 in all areas

  1. 3 points
    Note: Part numbers sometimes change without notice. Always double check with your supplier that you have the latest part numbers. (Special thanks to Chuck Jones for being the guinea pig and for taking the photos.) Parts you will need: 997.624.113.00 Actuator Tools you will need: Very short Torx T20 driver and right angle ratchet or tool to use the short T20 in a very confined space Regular screwdriver, phillips screw driver, and 10 mm wrench to remove th wheel well liner 1. Jack the car so that right front wheel is off the ground and secure it with a jack stand. Remove the right front wheel. 2. Remove the wheel well liner by removing the the plastics rivets (pry them out with a regular screwdriver). As well remove the 10 mm nuts on each side of the axle. Now remove the phillips screws that fasten the wheel well liner under the front bumper and remove the wheel well liner (and set aside). 3. Locate the EVAP canister and remove the electrical connection at the top of the canister. Now remove the 10 mm nut that holds the canister in place. Remove gas the vapor lines - one at the top and one at the bottom (again by squeezing the connectors). Remove the EVAP canister by pulling gently back and forth until it releases from the rubber gromments 4. Look back up under the fender (now that the canister is out of the way) and locate the broken actuator. Now using the stubby Torx T-20 loose (but do not remove) the two T-20 screws. The actuator itself is a bit tough to get to and you will need a really short T-20 Torx head to loosen the two screws. I say loosen because that is all you need to do to remove the part - it sits in two "U" shaped slots. Remove the electrical connector (by squeezing the tab). Here is a pic of the new part - as you see the Torx screws are already in place so that is all you have to do to replace it. 5. Put the new part in place making sure you feed the emergency pull line through the fender to its location in the door jam. There is room to slide it through the side so you don't need to try and thread it through the hole. Fasten the two Torx screws and reconnect the electrical connector. Chuck's car had the guide rose guide piece missing (so he needed to order one) Here is a pic of his car (without guide rose) and my car (with guide rose). Ref. P/N 997.624.505.00 We also noticed that on his car the plastic catch for the lock was missing (so he needed to order that too). Here is a pic of his car (without cap) and my car (with cap). Ref. P/N 996.201.243.00 6. Reinstall the EVAP canister by pushing it into place on the rubber gromments. Then reattach the vapor lines (they should snap back into place) and the electrical connection. Finally put the 10 mm nut back in place and tighten down. 7. Reinstall the wheel well liner (reverse of removal). 8. Mount the tire, lower the car and re-torque the wheel bolts. Done.
  2. 2 points
    The horn beeps and lights flashing is the alarm system telling you there is a alarm system zone fault somewhere. Could be an open (or maybe in this case closed/locked when it should be open) zone. Zones are: drivers/passenger doors, trunk lid, engine lid, glass (targa) top, gas cap lid, center console lid, and if you have it the glove box door. There are also two interior sensors in the overhead that detect motion when the car is locked. I think getting to the battery and disconnecting is a good idea. However, you have a problem since the trunk is not opening. First thing to try is actually seeing if the trunk is already open. Put your fingers under the trunk lid and try pulling up. Second is to locate the emergency release cable under the passenger side headlight. Unfortunately you need to pop the headlight out to make this a simple exercise, and you can't do that without opening the trunk. So you have to pull the passenger wheel well liner and fish out the cable from behind. Hopefully your wheel lock socket is not in your trunk!
  3. 2 points
    LONG STORY SHORT,,...My entry and drive system went bad one day., after almost a year of testing , replacing the battery, buying the test tool, almost brought a china piwis ,.... and bringing it to dealer and 800 dollars of dealer time., I had it fixed for 5 Dollars in parts. and one hr of soldering at first my kessy do not communicate to the darmatic tool or PIWIS at all, the dealer went ahead try to replace it , with a superseeded module, HOWEVER they wasn't able to program it for unknown reason, there is no module out there that will take my car's pin and complete the marry process because they said all the module has been superceeded. The dealer offer me to replace ALL the module in the car to an updated version for a cheapo $3000 dollars.! OF COURSE I refused,. ...,. I only lost my alarm horn , entry and drive function and its not worth $3000 dollars,. I was investigating myself trying to see what causing the problem, I came in to the touareg forum and found out those guys there have a lot of the problems with their module too. ... I was like ,hum.,,. then go under my dash and found the kessy module that is EXACTLY the same as theirs including the part number (WHICH IS A VW part number stamped on a sticker btw).... there is one guy there that took his module to a local electrician and found he has 2 fried mofset and 6 fried resistors.!!! I was like, fxxx it, why don't I give it a try, at first I couldn't found the 0.22ohm resistors (its was HARD trust me I took almost 2 months looking for them)., so I went ahead replaced the two mofset........... 15 mins and a lot of smoke later....... MAN,,,... the module can communicate with my Durametic tool...! HOWEVER,, all the antennas are reporting short to ground ERROR!!! I tried to clear it but the code come back instantly. then I went on to test the resistor value,... and found all six of the 0.22ohm resistors are SHORT (they are fusible resistor btw)....,,. sooooo I tried my best and finally able to locate those 0.22 ohm resistor .., fast forward 2 months later............ I received those resistors today.............. another 15 mins of smoke and sweat with my resoldering station... I plug the module back... run the scan tool clean the fault codes!!!!................... moment of truth,, I plug my dummy key in to the key cyclinder with the real key in my pocket!!!!!!!!!!!!! turn and the CAR STARTS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I have successfully fixed a $3000 dollars repair (that don't guarantee will work) with 5 dollars worth of resistors !!!!!! NOTE: IF your kessy don't communicate with the scan tool,. Its the TWO MOFSET that is Fried. if you have all antennas short to ground or not responding its the 6 resistors!
  4. 2 points
    Updated Mileage: 288,565. 2018 Round trips included NY to Seattle and NY to New Orleans. Still not driving as much as I'd like. #4 cylinder down to 75%. Trying to hold out to 300k before rebuild.
  5. 2 points
  6. 2 points
    I think you need option 666 or 619 for Bluetooth phone. 619 can be retrofitted, which is less expensive than 666. By the way, you can't update the system to v2.24 in one step. You have to update to v2.23 first. Your dealer should know this. I would try to find one who knows what they are doing. The 619 Mobile phone preparation retrofit involves fitting an additional microphone and entering an activation code for the Bluetooth using a PIWIS tester.
  7. 2 points
    15-year-old car - absolutely yes. Best to change every 5 years.
  8. 1 point
    Hi Toby, I used this as a general guide, it should be very similar to any valved exhaust you plan on installing. Hope it helps! I hope they don't mind installation links here - Akrapovic Install
  9. 1 point
    Noted! Mechanical pressure gauge ordered. Will update when I have actual oil pressure values.
  10. 1 point
    I would put a mechanical pressure gauge on it before doing anything else; you need to know what the actual pressure is before doing anything else.
  11. 1 point
  12. 1 point
    I just completed a similar job. I used a ball joint separator to press the studs out. All 6 studs out in less than 10 minutes!
  13. 1 point
    That's the vent line from the oil/coolant heat exchanger #30 here.
  14. 1 point
    It's part #18 here. There are multiple versions depends on your year and model. http://www.autoatlanta.com/porsche-parts/hardparts.php?dir=996-99-05&section=105-05
  15. 1 point
  16. 1 point
    Sounds like either the key or the lock detents are worn - or both are worn. You could try a new key before replacing the whole switch.
  17. 1 point
    Welcome to RennTech I would ask your tech how he determined the AOS is bad, and what does he base his RMS/IMS seal leakage upon. 20 hours is excessive, more like 8-10 hours is realistic to pull the Tip and replace both the AOS and either the RMS or IMS seals. I would also check with another Porsche oriented shop for a second opinion.
  18. 1 point
  19. 1 point
    i would ensure emergency blinkers are on and engine is off when you clear faults in all modules.
  20. 1 point
    Usually if it is a factory replacement engine it will have an AT in the engine number such as M96/04ATXXXXXXX. It could be an engine from a donor vehicle. See chart:
  21. 1 point
    Color codes front to rear are different. They are also different depending on RoW or US/Canada springs (ride height). They are also different depending on coupe or cabriolet -and whether you have a manual (6-speed) or Tiptronic.
  22. 1 point
    The seat belt and grounding issues were fault codes 45, 46, 48 and 49 - per the TSB. This fault 28 which is the drivers side (door) airbag.
  23. 1 point
    You need a special Porsche airbag test fixture to test airbags - I wouldn't go there. You can check the wire going to the airbag to make sure they are not pinched or broken in the door panel fitting. Do this with the key out of the ignition and the battery disconnected.
  24. 1 point
    Broken wire, shorted wire, blown fuse, bad DME.
  25. 1 point
    Hi to anyone who had this exact problem i have found a solution. after i changed my undamaged water pump and thermostat i got temp gauge dead and flashing. changed coolant sensor, to no avail. turns out that i needed to clear error codes with code reader and that instantly bought the gauge to life back to normal. 2.7 boxster 2001
  26. 1 point
    Unclip control unit from the holder A. Release electric connector A and remove it from control unit.
  27. 1 point
    Gibbs DT40, and full synthetic 5W-40 oil that still has a very high ZDDP level and excellent film strength. Your "emissions system" can be replaced in the driveway with hand tools, cylinder liners not so much...……...
  28. 1 point
    Did this happen after replacing the car battery? With or without Kessy?
  29. 1 point
    Very cool! I have great respect for people who not only can do this kind of thing, but are willing to share the results of their effort. Well done sir!
  30. 1 point
    Sheet 19 in the MY2000.
  31. 1 point
    Just in case anyone comes across this thread trying to solve unstable idle issues, bigbuzuki was on the right track. I replaced the vapor canister purge valve, pretty easy and inexpensive, and the crankcase breather check valve, even easier. the purge valve may have been a contributor, but the check valve was the main culprit. What is interesting here is that all of my ventilation hoses were intact and without leaks, but if you peered inside the removed check valve, you could clearly see that the membranes inside had completely disintegrated. That immediately did the trick.
  32. 1 point
    Glad to hear you got it sorted without splitting the case!
  33. 1 point
    Welcome to RennTech The foam coming out the vents are the seals from the heater box diverter door seals which have dried out and are starting to fall apart. To fully repair this, you need to disconnect and drop the heater box down (it is in the passenger's side under the dash), scrape off all the old seals and replace them. Some people have simply removed them, but that allows some mixing of different air streams in the system. Do a search on the topic, it has been written up on a couple of websites.
  34. 1 point
    Hi again Loren, Did you have any time to look at the wiring diagram for me? Thank you if you can. Best regards Chris.
  35. 1 point
    No one is suggesting that there are no other near equivalent fluids out there, but without a detailed factory spec sheet, it can be difficult to impossible for the average person to figure out which is which. Porsche is also well known for using unique lubricants in their manual gearboxes which are literally made to their specs. That does not mean there aren't other lubes that would work to some degree, but most find out the hard way that using aftermarket products lead to a litany of operational issues, and quite often damage as well. You might be surprised how many times we get cars in that had been switched to other products either by their owners or another shop, and problems resulted in the car coming to us because we use only the factory lubes. Several years ago I approached one of the known suppliers of these lubricants and was told outright that what they make for Porsche is unique to Porsche, and cannot be sold to anyone else because of exclusive marketing agreements between them and Porsche. As the result, we still buy ours from Porsche, albeit in drums, which are plainly marked as made by one of two companies. Based upon what I have been told by someone from the Porsche factory, they are (or were) ZF. As Porsche often uses more than one supplier, they may also some that come from other suppliers; but I was told ZF.
  36. 1 point
    Me? Where did I ask about "cheap unknown spec lubricants"? It is easy to find the exact specs for both of these fluids and anyone that hasn't heard of Febi Bilstein or Fuchs must have limited knowledge of European fluid suppliers. Can we all agree that Porsche doesn't produce ATF fluids in-house for the transmissions that they outsource from another vendor (Aisin or ZF....TBD) ? With that in mind, putting some effort into locating the original supplier/manufactuer of the fluid that Porsche specs for this 8-speed is hardly a foolish exercise, especially since we are talking about 8L - 9L of fluid at a $30 - $40 per L saving. Sounds like a sensible exercise to me. In my experience it usually possible to find a non-OE fluid (engine/trans/diff/brake) that is superior in quality to OE fluid (better base stock, less shear, higher VI, etc) for the same or less money. Car and Driver: "As with all the other gasoline engines, power is transmitted via a completely new eight-speed automatic transmission sourced from Aisin that shifts quickly and very smoothly." Road & Track: "The Aisin 8-speed Tiptronic automatic transmission eliminates the need for a low-range transfer case within the Cayenne's new lighter (surprise!), on-demand all-wheel-drive system, while Porsche claims faster (albeit imperceptible) shift speeds over 8-speed on-road-only gearbox." Maybe both sources are wrong?
  37. 1 point
    So, again in an effort to help others that might look for this in the future: 996 GT3, Airbag Light and Durametric fault " Code 30, ignition circuit - side airbag, passenger". Side airbag = door airbag: There was nothing wrong with it, the connector was good, and I also electrically swapped a spare airbag that I had, but the fault remained. Knowing the issue was coming from that circuit, and since I had disconnected the door and the controller when I stripped the car, I looked at both of those, looking for a bent pin, or? I expected the door connector to be the bad player since it's a bit less straightforward to connect and disconnect than the controller. While trying to identify the relevant pins on the big connector at the door jam to wring out the wires, I noticed that, with the connector off, the two pins/wires for the door airbag were shorted together (no doubt a shunt to prevent accidental airbag deployment when the connector is not connected). I also noticed that, in the connector, right next to the two pins, there was a small rectangular slot that matched a small plastic piece on the mating connector. At first I thought that it was an alignment device, but there was more to it than that, because there was a small piece of metal in the slot. While ohming the two airbag pins, I shoved a pick in the slot and suddenly, the two shorted pins/wires were no longer shorted, meaning that THE PLASTIC PIECE HAS TO BE ALL THE WAY INTO THE RECTANGULAR SLOT so that the circuit is in an acceptable state for the airbag controller. So again, even if the connector appears to be connected, you need more than just the pins to be in contact, you need the plastic tab to be all the way in to the slot. These pins and slot are part of a sub-connector within the main door connector and the sub-connector is somewhat free to move a bit. I made sure that it was all the way in and now my airbag light is gone. I'm sitting in the car with the laptop, having gone back in with the Durametric to clear the code, and decided to tell my story. Hopefully it can help someone. Case closed :)
  38. 1 point
    This was done on a 996 but the 986 Boxster is exactly the same... Replacing the Gas/Fuel Door Actuator
  39. 1 point
    So, I'm going to update this thread as I go along in case anyone else needs this info going forward. Although there are a lot of "radio" threads out there it appears that the vast majority of Cayenne buyers got the Bose sound package and thus I could not find conclusive information so here goes: My '05 Cayenne base does not have the bose sound upgrade package and does not have an amp, just a fiber optic connected CD changer. (translation: the MOST system in my Cayenne is only utilized for the CD changer) Basics: if the speakers don't have the Bose logo you probably don't have bose. The CD changer is located in the rear right cargo behind pull off panel. My understanding is a non-bose amp would be located above the CD changer, that space can be viewed with a flashlight at the correct angle. Original radio is the CDR-23 single din. The back of the radio has three plugs (the top with three wires is the steering controls, the middle with 8 wires are the speakers, the bottom with three wires is the power/antenna). In addition there is the antenna connection on the far left and a pair of FIBER OPTIC cables. In this setup, the Fiber Optics cables run directly to the CD changer and that appears to be it. I unplugged the fiber optic behind the radio and EVERYTHING works fine (radio, steering controls, dash still shows the station/song). The CD changer obviously does not work but the CD slot on the head unit does work. With 8 speaker wires in the back of the radio, it is evident these are running straight to the speakers, confirmed by the fact that no amp was found. Also, called Becker and they confirmed that some becker units are not programmed to be used with an amp and most cars with an amp use a smaller yellow plug in the middle slot instead of the 8 speaker wires. So for the Radio swap all I need is a new head unit and wiring harness, essentially it is now plug and play (thank you previous owner for only getting the basic radio option). After some back and forth with a few car stereo and online sellers, the correct harness appears to be the Connects2 model CTSPO001 and is about a US$100 part. This does include steering wheel controls which would negate the need to buy the US$50 ASWC-1 part. (so essentially 50 for the basic harness and 50 for the steering controls) The fiber optic plug will just be taped off behind the unit since I have no need for the CD changer (definitely not spending 500 for a fiber connection to tie it in), they also sell a fiber optic loop connection for 10-25 so I might do that just in case its better to have the fiber loop closed. Other parts that are easily identified elsewhere: dash trim by Metra 95-9600, another one by Connects2 CT23PO01. Antenna is 40-EU10 but it appears there are a couple almost identical to choose but know once hooked up. Since the speaker wires are behind the head unit it would be easy to setup an amp in the front of the vehicle or possibly under the hood since any wires (power/speakers) wouldn't have to be routed all the way to the back of the vehicle. Parts are all on order, will update when everything is connected.
  40. 1 point
    The most likely cause of this particular problem is inside the door lock assembly, inside the door. It's either in the circuit board or in the microswitch in that assembly. There are a number of soldered connections on a small circuit board inside that door lock assembly which can crack and cause the exact problem that you have described. The soldered connections on the circuit board can be reheated and re-soldered for a good repair. The microswitch usually can only be replaced but Porsche does not sell that microswitch bi itself, only the complete assembly. To definitively determine the cause you will have to remove the door panel and peel back the waterproof covering and then remove and test the door lock assembly. Here is a photo of my door lock assembly ('97 Boxster), yours will look very similar. The circuit board in question is inside the large white plastic housing and the soldered connections that usually crack are the ones that are on the edge of the circuit board, where the connector is attached (near the top left corner of the photo). The movement (from its weight) of the connector is probably what causes the cracks. There are a lot of posts on the microswitch issue on this forum. Do a search here and you'll get a better idea of what you are dealing with if it turns out to be the microswitch. BTW, to see the cracks in the solder you will need a large magnifying glass. They are almost microscopic. It won't cost you anything to inspect the circuit board or to fix it if you are good with a soldering iron before considering the expense of a replacement door lock assembly. Regards, Maurice.
  41. 1 point
    So here are a couple of snaps. I have my headliner out if anyone needs a specific shot of anything just ask. At the back of the sunroof frame is a drain. It has a bit of a reservoir then the tube to the back of the car. I sat inside the car while a buddy with a hose sprayed the roof of the car. No water came in. So i moved the car onto an incline and water started to drip. (Don't park on an incline, is the only answer i can come up with) If the reservoir gets too much water then it will leak over the frame and onto your headliner. I am going to go full black alcantara for the interior of the PIG. So more pics will follow. Interestingly one of my drain tubes is blue. The others grey. Carfax was clean, so no real idea as to why this was changed. Although when it rains and rains i have water when i open up my rear drivers side door. Attached is a picture of the plastic piece where the drains hook up to. I wanted to make sure this was 100% clean so i took it out. You can see the factory sealant that was displaced when i removed it.
  42. 1 point
    Parts required: ( I did this as inexpensive as possible) Steel tow bumper bought on ebay (200bucks) 955-618-040-10 Control Unit 955-612-506-00 Wiring Harness PNA-955-118-93 Trailer Hitch Connector (this is the 7 pin Pollak connector) PNA 955-127-08 7-4 way Adapter N-909-892-01 bumper bolts (8) Tools required: Allen key set 10mm wrench screw driver 1/4" ratchet torx driver set flashlight 21mm socket torque wrench Step 1: Remove spare tire floor by pulling hatch out towards the rear. There are no bolts that hold this in. Step 2: Use the torx bits to remove the chrome tie downs on the passenger side as well as the bolt closest to the hatch Step 3: After removing the side carpeted piece, there will be two additional screws underneath that hold the vertical carpeting piece in Step 4: Remove pillar cover on passenger side. Pull plastic cover labeled "airbag" off and remove screw underneath. Carelly work cover free at the top first. Step 5: Remove the exposed screw on the lower portion of the pillar Step 6: Disconnect trunk light Step 7: Remove the passenger side net anchor screws Step 8: Pull the passenger side section down. The clips are very tight, so be careful when prying the plastic. This is where the clip locations are. Step 9: Slowly pry passenger side pillar cover off, starting at the top. Once you reach the speaker, be sure to disconnect the wire as shown. Step 10: Remove screw that is now exposed on the rear pillar Step 11: Carefully pull the passenger side carpet panel out as shown. Step 12: Use the flashlight and look in between the carpet panel and the inner fender well. Pull out the pre-located harness plug, roughly half way in towards the front as shown. The plug is RED Step 13: Pull out and connect to the module. Plugs are specific so it will only fit into the center plug. Leave hanging for later use. Step 14: Remove both tail light allen bolts on the inside of the hatch area. They will be covered by two plastic plugs as seen below. Step 15: Carefully pry tail lights straight out towards the rear. There are 2 clips, one forward, and one rear on each lense. Disconnect harness and set aside. Step 16: Remove both torx screws on the bumper cover that were previously under the tail lights Step 17: In each fender well, remove the torx screws, starting in the rear, moving to the top of the fender. No need to remove all of them, you just need to access a hidden screw under the fender liner. Step 18: Remove hidden screw on both sides in the fender well. This is somewhat difficult to access, the torx bit will be FACING towards the rear of the car, close to the 10 o'clock position in the fender well. Step 19: Remove the lower allen bolts in the bumper cover Step 20: carefully wiggle the bumper cover free. The parking assist sensors will still be plugged in, so don't completely remove. Once far enough out, locate and disconnect plug on the DRIVER side Step 21: Remove foam and sensors as one, and save for reinstall. Loosen 8 bolts holding on aluminum bumper and completely remove bumper. Step 22: Install new STEEL bumper with hitch. Torque bolts to 140 lb/ft Step 23: Reinstall parking sensors and foam on top Step 24: Install plug cover into harness Step 25: Remove plastic cover on bumper support, and use screws to attach harness and plug assembly. Step 26: Route harness along the bottom of the bumper support towards passenger side. Remove rubber grommet and replace with grommet already attached to the wire harness. The wire ties should be positioned perfectly to install in holes in the bumper support. Step 27: Grab harness on the interior side, and route up and over the factory cd changer to the existing plug you found early on. Plug into module. Step 28: Using screws, install module on top of existing electronics in passenger side area. There will only be 2 plugs even though there are three sockets on the module Step 29: On the bumper cover, there are marking where to cut the relief for the receiver as shown below. I made the cut with a sharp razor blade Step 30: Reinstall all components and panels in reverse order (have fun with all of this!) Step 31: Locate the right fuse box on the side of the passenger side dashboard. Install a 15A fuse in slot 1, 3, and 5 plus replace slot 19 with a 30A. FINAL STEP: IF YOU ARE LUCKY, the module ordered is already programmed for the US. Unfortunately, it seems like the dealerships are stocking the UK version. You will need someone with a porsche scan tool to reset the module to the US version (UK is the fold out version). If you don't have any errors on your dashboard, then you have the right US version. If you get a tow warning, you will need the module reset. ENJOY!!
  43. 1 point
    Hello Everyone. Please find my first tutorial submission. Replacing the Valve Body (aka valve chest) in a 2003 Cayenne Turbo Symptoms: Very harsh shift from 1-2-3 when under load (like getting rear ended by a truck) Hesitant shifts and flaring when driving normally. "Clunky" shifts. Vehicle has travelled around 210,000km. Fluid has never been changed (dealer said is was not necessary-which is not true!) After doing lots of reading it seemed like the valve body (VB) was the likely culprit. You can either replace with a new VB or have your old one re-built. If you replace the VB with a new one, you also need a new transmission control unit, and the problems will most likely re-appear. I went the re-build route and chose RevMax converters based on other people's experience. Note that RexMax don't ship outside the USA, so as I live in Australia, I used my wife's USA2ME mailbox, and they sent it on to me. I also had to send my old core in as they didn't have one in stock, but I'm glad I did, as there are several versions of VB depending on the year of your car. They rebuilt it within 48 hours. As you will need to drain and re-fill the trans, I won't be covering that in too much detail as it is covered extensively elsewhere (see my reference links below). Parts list 1) Auto trans filter 955-307-403-01 2) Auto trans filter sealing O-ring 955-325-443-00 3) Filler Hole seal O-ring 955-321-379-00 4) Crush ring for transmission drain hole - sorry didn't have PN for this as I forgot to order it! I re-used my old one. 5) 3 x Long VB retaining bolts WHT 000 321 6) 11 x short VB retaining bolts WHT 000 324 7) Transmission pan gasket 955-397-016-00 8) Case (12 quarts) of Mobil ATF 3309 or Toyota type IV Transmission fluid (It is the same stuff do don't panic if you can't get Mobil or Porsche branded fluid) Tools List 1) 1 x micro torque wrench (range 2-20 ft-lbs) 2) 1 x normal torque wrench (for torquing the fill plug to 70 ft-lbs) 3) T40 Torx bit to remove drain plug 4) 17mm Hex bit for fill plug 5) 10mm socket (apart from the drain plugs everything is a 10mm socket) 6) general other sockets and screwdrivers. 7) Durametric software to read transmission temp and re-set adaptation (you can get buy with a temp probe on a multimeter, but it was much easier to use the software, and IMHO if you are attempting a job like this you really should get it. It'll pay for itself on this job alone). 8) A willing assistant to help with the re-fill procedure. Reference - read this stuff first and print out the relevant pages 1) Official method for removing the valve body http://www.inkilino.es/Porsche_Cayenne_02-06/AUTO%20TRANS%20GEARS%20CONTROL.pdf 2) A really nice tutorial on draining and re-filling the transmission in addition to the ones on Renntech by ECS tuning http://bd8ba3c866c8cbc330ab-7b26c6f3e01bf511d4da3315c66902d6.r6.cf1.rackcdn.com/CayenneTransmission.pdf 3) there's a brief write up at club touareg that I used as a starter http://www.clubtouareg.com/forums/f73/transmission-valve-body-diy-on-2004-touareg-v8-09d-trans-64189.html Part 1 Removing the Pan and Valve Body 1) Remove the underbody protection panel. 2) There is a 2 peice bracket that holds the protection panel up, unbolt it in the centre and side and remove it. 3) My car had a strong bash plate over the rear of the transmission pan, it will need to be removed in order to access the rear pan bolts. 4) Drain the fluid from the pan (First make sure you can budge the large fill hole-It's really tight I had to use a big metal bar to crack it, once it's "cracked" you can then remove the T40 torx drain plug). Best to drain the fluid cold after it's been sitting overnight. You'll drain an easy 5-6 quarts here. 5) Remove the ATF Pan bolts (all 10mm) and save them - they can be reused. 6) Gently knock the pan to break the seal and remove it. 7) Remove the 3 10mm retaining bolts from the ATF filter and remove the filter. Make sure the seal ring comes out too. More fluid will come out. Discard filter and o-ring. You should not be able to see the valve body as below. Take a picture and make notes as to which wire goes where. It's actually not that complicated as the wires will only really go in one spot when you re-assemble. You also need to note how the selector shaft engages with the VB as below. Again this looks tricky, but it was dead easy to put back together. Here's a close up of the shift solenoid wiring harness showing the green connectors in the black housings. Here's a pic of the other side. You can see another solenoid, plus the two pressure switches (gold colour) and up the back the large white output shaft speed inductive pickup connecter. Note how the white connecter clips onto the bracket and also how the wiring is tucked under the bracket. 8) Now work your way slowly around the 5 solenoids on the shift selector side removing the green connectors. I used a small screwdriver to depress the little clip and lever them out. You should not need to use hardly any force on these. You don't want to damage them at all. 9) Remove the 2 black cable plugs at the rear of the VB and the single solenoid green connector at the front of the VB. 10) Next pull off the plug for the input shaft inductive pickup. This is located at the front of the trans, right up in the "guts" of it. It looks really tricky, but using a long screw driver it came right out. Putting it back in was also really easy, so work slowly and don't panic. 11) Next pull off the two cables from the gold pressure switches. They just pop right off. 12) Remove the bolt holding the ATF temp sensor (2 orange wires) and pull the sensor out. It's held in by an o-ring. Save the bolt and retaining bracket. Don't remove the sensor from the wiring harness, just let it dangle with the rest of the wiring harness. 13) Remove the large white connector at the rear of the VB (output shaft inductive pickup) from the bracket and unclip the white connector. 14) Remove the steel bracket and save it and it's bolts. 15) Remove the 2 gold pressure sensors (if you get the VB rebuilt you'll get new ones, but hang onto them just in case). Now all the wires should be free. Tie or secure them gently so they're out of the way. The VB is very heavy and will also dump a heap of fluid when you remove it, so you don't want to snag the wires at all. 16) Now remove the valve body by removing the 14 bolts around the outside. They are all 10mm. I removed all but 2, one at the front and one at the rear, then slowly loosened them allowing the VB to tilt forward. This allows some of the excess fluid to run out. There is still easily 2-3 quarts of fluid in there so it's messy. Again take care the VB is very heavy, expecially if you are working on your own. Here's the transmission with the valve body removed. Note the black wire in the centre of the transmission is the output shaft inductive pickup that is attached to the big white connector. Clean up the VB and send it off to be rebuilt. Part 2 Installing the VB 1) get all your parts together. Note the valve body retaining bolts CANNOT be re-used, so make sure you got new ones. 2) Gently place the VB in it's position. Make sure the selector shaft mates correctly with the VB. Mine almost just fell into place itself. Also make sure that none of the wires are snagged especially the output shaft wire (big white connector).If you've secured them out of the way this won't be a problem. I put in 2 bolts to start with to get the position right and take the weight. Only do them barely hand tight. This is really important as the torquing process will be ruined of you do them up too tight to start with. 3) Put in the rest of the bolts and tighten them up by hand so the VB is in place and mated correctly to the transmission. If you get the bolts in the right place, you'll be fine. Don't do them up too tight! 4) Now the bolts need to be torqued in 2 stages. Initially using your micro torque wrench to 6 ft-lbs (8 nm) and then finally through an angle of 90 degrees (quarter of a turn). I had an angle gauge, but I couldn't find a good spot to use it against the transmission body. So in the end I just torqued them by "eye". 90 degrees is easy to judge. So to re-cap. Torque all bolts initially to 6ft-lbs and then once you've torqued all 14 bolts, the go around and torque them AGAIN through 90 degrees. If you have one of those fancy digital torque wrenches, it may also do angular torque for you. Here's the new VB installed in the transmission. Note the wires are hanging neatly to the side. 5) Reinstall the two gold pressure switches (torque to 3.25 ft-lbs/4.5 nm) and also re-install the bracket you removed that holds the white output shaft inductive pickup wire connector. Make sure the wire is routed correctly under the bracket and attach the white connector to the bracket as below. 6) Connect the other white connector from the output shaft pickup 7) Replace the ATF temperature sensor using the bracket and the bolt. Note the wire points to the rear of the VB. Torque the bolt to 7.5 ft-lbs/10nm. 8) Plug in the 2 cables for the gold pressure switches. 9) Plug in the cable for the input shaft inductive pickup. This is the one that's right up at the front of the transmission. For me it went straight in no problems at all with a nice positive "click". It looks a bit daunting, but was surprisingly easy to re-connect. 10) Plug in the remaining green six green connectors, and the two black connectors at the back of the VB. Compare the wiring layout to the picture you took before you unpluged them all!. If you didn't take a picture, don't panic, the wires only really go one way, just make sure they're nice and neat. As a guide the orange temperature sensor wires go under the green/brown solenoid wire. 11) Next reinstall the ATF filter using the new O-ring. Torque the 3 bolts to 7.5 ft-lbs or 10 nm. It should all look like this... 12) Next put the new Pan gasket in place on the pan and using the old pan bolts install the pan and torque the bolts to 7.5 ft-lbs or 10nm. I put a little drop of Permatex blue threadlocker on them for good measure. Here's a picture of the nice clean pan and new gasket next to the old gasket. Make sure the pan and magnets are all clean. Just wipe it out. I didn't want to use degreaser in case it contaminated the trans fluid. My magnets weren't too dirty. I've seen pictures of this trans in an Audi and the magnets looked like little Chia pets!! Install the small drain plug and new crush ring (doh!) and torque to 21 ft-lbs/28nm. 13) Now cold fill the pan until fluid comes out the fill hole. It took about 4 quarts. I used a $8 garden sprayer, and put about 2 feet of clear hose on the end with a hose clamp. This allowed me to have the pump bottle at the ground, and put the plastic tube into the transmission so it hooked over the fill tube. It worked brilliantly! Here's a picture of the bottle I used. Here's the top of the setup. You can see the plastic tube going into the transmission. I also had my multimeter temp probe in there, but it turned out I didn't poke it in far enough so it couldn't pick up the temperature. I used the Durametric software instead. 14) Now for the "hot" fill procedue. Make sure your fill bottle is full. I ended up using a total of 10.5 quarts to refill the transmission (this is more than a normal fluid change as the VB has been removed), so I had to refill the fill bottle half way though the procedure. You have to move quickly as once the temperature starts to move on the transmission it only takes about 5 minutes to get to 40oC. I set my laptop up in easy reach (make sure it's fully charged or better still connected to AC) and also had all my bottles of ATF at my feet. 15) Have your assistant start the car and you start filling the transmission. I added another 4 quarts in a few minutes. Ask your assistant to move from P to R to D and back again with about a 3-4 second pause between each shift. Do this once. 16) Keep filling the transmission, and watching the temp on the software. Once the fill bottle was empty quickly re-fill it, re-pressurise and keep filling. Get your assistant to do the shift sequence again. I found that at about 32-35oC the trans was getting full. Fluid will start to leak back out the hole, so make sure you've got a drain pan under the hole! 17) Keep filling and execute another shift sequence. At about 38oC I got another shift sequence done, and then put a but more fluid it. 18) At 39oC fluid started coming out the hole a bit faster, and at 40oC I quickly pulled out the tube and put in the fill hole socket. Torque it to 70 ft-lbs. 19) Stop the car, using the durametric software execute the Reset Adaptation command for the transmission. After that go for a test drive! As the transmission control unit is in learn mode, you should try to do all sorts of driving styles. This has solved all the shifting problems I had, it really drives like a new car. Even my wife commented on how smooth it is now. Check for leaks and replace the underbody panels etc. Enjoy your new car!
  44. 1 point
    Cabriolet: Removable windbreak that reduces air turbulence for driver/passenger while also serving as a cover for back-seat luggage. Easy to attach, and can easily be stowed in a protective cover in the trunk; or Coupe: Front lip on your sunroof.
  45. 1 point
    I like pictures when I read a DIY, so I made these up to demonstrate what you are in for when you want to change your plugs. Use these pictures in conjunction with the writeup by ebaker...
  46. 1 point
    If you look at the picture on the prior page it was frayed exactly where the red felt pads were placed. That's were a small part was cut out by the dealer. To add to the renewed discussion, i'd been meaning to send in some pics of the fix on what the end result was that rid me of this little niggle. It was as simple as purchasing some felt tape (or equivalent) and working it around the area to reduce the friction. This is how it currently looks: - I just had to be sure that all surfaces that the strap is in contact with were sufficiently covered to prevent any contact with the plastic. Other than that and how always it's the case, a pain to discover but simple to remedy. Regards Pop OMG. This is by FAR the best thread I've read. For 2 years now i've had this very exact cracking noise and nobody (dealers) knew where it came from. It just tried your fix and it took all of 5 minutes and 2 bucks. Sound is now GONE. Pop. i think i love you. LOL
  47. 1 point
    I got sick of not having cupholders in my Boxster. So I set out to find some. The options seemed to be OEM cupholders, either the clip on type, or the single DIN type. And we all know the problems with those - not secure enough fit, not accommodating large cups, etc. Also, the DIN type takes up an entire vertical DIN slot, making fitting double DIN GPS impossible. Other solutions seem to be to use a cutout for cups in the centre console box - which means the lid needs to stay open; and "ultimate cupholder" - which doesn't look OEM at all. So I was searching for generic cupholders on Ebay, and found this: http://cgi.ebay.com....=item439b780b6e And from a seller, the dimensions are: 7 7/16" long by 1" just the cover lid, assembly is 7" x 4 3/4" The width is as close to OEM fit for the Boxster as it gets, for a non-Porsche part! So I bought it. Realising that late model VWs like Passat and Jetta has the same console width as our Boxster, I then bought this: http://cgi.ebay.com....=item3ca672b7af It's entirely possible that other units like this http://cgi.ebay.com....=item3356ef534c would also fit. And before you start, get a rotary tool (like a Dremel). It's an absolute god send! Made things so easy. Here is the unit: Compared to another double DIN unit I originally planned for the mod: The difference is the newer one has a hi res screen. I actually rather liked the volume knob on the low res one. I put the cupholder and GPS unit together, with double sided tape, like this: You can also mount the cupholder on top, like this: I chose to go with the bottom fit, because I don't really like cups placed that high, and the bottom fit actually takes up a few mm less in height, which gives a better fit in the horseshoe frame. Speaking of frame, it's cut up, like this: There was a lip on the inner aspect of the lower border, this was cut to make room to increase the height. This, together with some slight sanding of the bottom of the cupholder was all that's required to make the height of the combo fit just right. Incredibly lucky! Note, you must get rid of the lower lip much as you can. Or the cupholder would be clamped too tight between the frame and the GPS, and it doesn't open when clamped tight. In the above picture, you can see I turned the OEM metal bracket around. This was necessary as the cupholder doesn't extend as deep as the OEM stereo, so the bracket support needs to come forward. You need to drill a hole in the original bracket to allow this. The reason will be very apparent when you actually do this. Here is a close up of the reversed bracket: The GPS antenna is simply placed near the alarm cover. Remove the alarm cover first, thread the GPS wire through, then just fish for it through the horseshoe frame. No need to remove anything else to place the GPS antenna. The thick wire attached to the GPS wire is the loom for my Head-Up-Display (another mod, for another day) :) The rest of the wiring here, with the unit ready to be pushed in: Here is the test fit: You can see that I will need a "n" shaped bezel to fill out the gap. This was obtained by modifying the Passat bezel that came with the GPS. The width is an exact fit, just like the cupholder (maybe 1mm longer, but I just left it). So I just sanded down the top border of the frame. And cut off the bottom border. I don't have a picture with the bottom border removed, only with the thinned top border: Press it in, it's a snug fit, not even sticky taped. And voooowwlaahhh!!!! OEM look!! From afar: With cupholder open: With a large "cup": In summary, get a genuine Jetta cupholder and an aftermarket Passat double DIN GPS! (not affliated with the seller/s, I promise) :)
  48. 1 point
    During my travels, I try, like many of you, to visit with Porsche folks. Met some really nice people willing to take the time to shoot the breeze about their cars over the years I have a fun collection of some of the nicest and most unique shops where these people work on their cars. Some of these "shops" are as nice as the houses they are attached to! So I created a new section on my site for the displaying of these "shops". So if you have some pictures of your shop, send them to me and I'll post them. There is one up there now that has been my favorite so far. The shop is as nice as the guy that owns it. Some of the old timers from the east coast may recognize it. http://www.cyberwerkstatt.com Then click on the "The Werkstatt" Link ed www.cyberwerkstatt.com :renntech:
  49. 1 point
    IMHO it would be really useful if some of you guys could reply with which code Loren suggests actually works. It might help make more accurate predictions. Just my 2 cents worth.
  50. 1 point
    Are you sure you are holding the trunk lock release button down long enough. It takes about 2-3 seconds to work. I know I made the mistake of thinking it was like the buttons for all my other cars until someone pointed out to me the difference by design. It ios mentioned in the Owner's Manual but is easy to overlook.
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