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Showing content with the highest reputation since 02/04/2019 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    The horn beeps and lights flashing is the alarm system telling you there is a alarm system zone fault somewhere. Could be an open (or maybe in this case closed/locked when it should be open) zone. Zones are: drivers/passenger doors, trunk lid, engine lid, glass (targa) top, gas cap lid, center console lid, and if you have it the glove box door. There are also two interior sensors in the overhead that detect motion when the car is locked. I think getting to the battery and disconnecting is a good idea. However, you have a problem since the trunk is not opening. First thing to try is actually seeing if the trunk is already open. Put your fingers under the trunk lid and try pulling up. Second is to locate the emergency release cable under the passenger side headlight. Unfortunately you need to pop the headlight out to make this a simple exercise, and you can't do that without opening the trunk. So you have to pull the passenger wheel well liner and fish out the cable from behind. Hopefully your wheel lock socket is not in your trunk!
  2. 2 points
    LONG STORY SHORT,,...My entry and drive system went bad one day., after almost a year of testing , replacing the battery, buying the test tool, almost brought a china piwis ,.... and bringing it to dealer and 800 dollars of dealer time., I had it fixed for 5 Dollars in parts. and one hr of soldering at first my kessy do not communicate to the darmatic tool or PIWIS at all, the dealer went ahead try to replace it , with a superseeded module, HOWEVER they wasn't able to program it for unknown reason, there is no module out there that will take my car's pin and complete the marry process because they said all the module has been superceeded. The dealer offer me to replace ALL the module in the car to an updated version for a cheapo $3000 dollars.! OF COURSE I refused,. ...,. I only lost my alarm horn , entry and drive function and its not worth $3000 dollars,. I was investigating myself trying to see what causing the problem, I came in to the touareg forum and found out those guys there have a lot of the problems with their module too. ... I was like ,hum.,,. then go under my dash and found the kessy module that is EXACTLY the same as theirs including the part number (WHICH IS A VW part number stamped on a sticker btw).... there is one guy there that took his module to a local electrician and found he has 2 fried mofset and 6 fried resistors.!!! I was like, fxxx it, why don't I give it a try, at first I couldn't found the 0.22ohm resistors (its was HARD trust me I took almost 2 months looking for them)., so I went ahead replaced the two mofset........... 15 mins and a lot of smoke later....... MAN,,,... the module can communicate with my Durametic tool...! HOWEVER,, all the antennas are reporting short to ground ERROR!!! I tried to clear it but the code come back instantly. then I went on to test the resistor value,... and found all six of the 0.22ohm resistors are SHORT (they are fusible resistor btw)....,,. sooooo I tried my best and finally able to locate those 0.22 ohm resistor .., fast forward 2 months later............ I received those resistors today.............. another 15 mins of smoke and sweat with my resoldering station... I plug the module back... run the scan tool clean the fault codes!!!!................... moment of truth,, I plug my dummy key in to the key cyclinder with the real key in my pocket!!!!!!!!!!!!! turn and the CAR STARTS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I have successfully fixed a $3000 dollars repair (that don't guarantee will work) with 5 dollars worth of resistors !!!!!! NOTE: IF your kessy don't communicate with the scan tool,. Its the TWO MOFSET that is Fried. if you have all antennas short to ground or not responding its the 6 resistors!
  3. 2 points
    Updated Mileage: 288,565. 2018 Round trips included NY to Seattle and NY to New Orleans. Still not driving as much as I'd like. #4 cylinder down to 75%. Trying to hold out to 300k before rebuild.
  4. 2 points
  5. 1 point
    Regarding the repaired brake vacuum hose. I wasn't able to talk to the technician after all, but did take a look under the top engine cover. The vacuum line runs from the inlet manifold right through to the servo located under the front bonnet (trunk). I wasn't able to see where the repair was made - it could have been anywhere along this line. Perhaps the line wasnt properly connected to the inlet manifold? Its a sizable pipe and made of tough material - not easy to damage. Good hunting - if you think this could be your problem.
  6. 1 point
  7. 1 point
    1999 C2 Manual Bought last October with ~114k No maintenance history, original IMS. Going through and doing maintenance now and am sitting at 115k miles. Runs like a top with minimal oil seapage from sump plate. Debating if I should go full retard and Upgrade IMS along with other bits or see what my luck brings with the original 2 row IMS
  8. 1 point
    I am not 100% certain, but if you take off the plastic trim cover covering the hood latch, you should be able to see everything. You pull the interior cover back a bit to reach the bolts that hold the hood latch to the frame. It is all pretty straight forward from there.
  9. 1 point
    The hoses 1 and 3 are the supply and return lines for the front radiators. They are located on the back side of the engine near the transmission. They connect to the metal supply and return lines that run up the center transmission tunnel and go to the front radiators. You probably have to remove the underbelly pans to see them. Those hoses attach to #9 and #10 here M96.01/02/03 Water Cooling 2 M96.04 WWW.AUTOATLANTA.COM
  10. 1 point
    Per the photos on Pelican of those two hoses, it looks like the one ending with "-05", which includes the small T nipple section.
  11. 1 point
    1. Durametric. 2. Minor body changes 2015-2016, 2016 GTS model, 2017 Macan 4 cylinder. 3. I do not think there have been many air suspension failures or faults since 2016. Air is more expensive than steel but also has many handling advantages. 4. No, transfer cases are pretty much it for large items and most of those are replaced under warranty. 5. The VIN will not tell you anything about the options without a report from a dealer (we can also get reports for our Contributing Members). Download the option codes list here: https://www.renntech.org/files/category/140-macan/
  12. 1 point
    It's part #18 here. There are multiple versions depends on your year and model. http://www.autoatlanta.com/porsche-parts/hardparts.php?dir=996-99-05&section=105-05
  13. 1 point
    Thought i'd record what i found for posterity. The issue was the driver's side (UK) door handle micro switch. I stripped the door down enough to view the window motor spindle. I could see that it was only (intermittently) driving in one direction. Thus i guessed there was a logic issue. I started exercising the door handle microswitches then i noted that I was able to get the motor to drive in both directions. Re-assembled the door and the window is fine now. I guess that the circuit 'thought' that the window was already fully up and would not allow the motor to drive in that direction. Hope this helps someone.
  14. 1 point
  15. 1 point
    Then a proper programming is needed.
  16. 1 point
  17. 1 point
    Mice and rats can get just about anywhere in the harness, you simply have to get a good light and start tracing wires. I'd start with the engine bay and any wires under the vehicle first as they are the most accessible to the rodents.
  18. 1 point
    Perhaps this (from the service manual) will help...
  19. 1 point
    Pretty much has to be 661 - so that engine (factory) build was 2001.
  20. 1 point
    Mine did pretty much the same, drove it into the garage, all ok, come to drive it again, one side low! Seems they have removed what little lead content there was from them (so I was informed) and they just snap! Apparently quite a well known issue in the independents world. BMW springs do the same, had a couple fail on them.
  21. 1 point
    The seat belt and grounding issues were fault codes 45, 46, 48 and 49 - per the TSB. This fault 28 which is the drivers side (door) airbag.
  22. 1 point
    First of all, try disconnecting the battery to see if it changes anything. If you jack up the car and have all 4 wheels off the pavement(safely), do the rear wheels move by hand in neutral? Check the driveshaft, rear diff while you have the wheels off the ground. Are the calipers stuck? Take off the calipers to see if the problem still there. Maybe parking brake cable not releasing at all. According to a parts diagram, parking brake shoes are inside the rear brake rotors. If the parking brake is ON, it's really hard to remove rear rotors. So if you already have the rear calipers off from the previous step, then try taking off the rear rotors and inspect the operation of parking brake. GL
  23. 1 point
    Does your car have seat heaters? If so, are they working? In my recently purchased Cayman S neither Homelink nor the seat heaters would light their LEDs. Using Durametric I could cause the Homelink LEDs to light so I figured the unit on the roof worked. I then searched and found that sometimes if the battery is disconnected, then your car will lose its awareness of having those options. Had to take it to an indy shop with PIWIS to do the "Handover" programming to get them to work again. Just a thought.
  24. 1 point
    Here are those part numbers.
  25. 1 point
    Broken wire, shorted wire, blown fuse, bad DME.
  26. 1 point
    Alex, Whether this is germane to your question, I run 305/30-11"X19" wheels on my '03' C4S. I'm running a center lock conversion with a +37 off-set.
  27. 1 point
    What year? C2 or C4$? All season or summer tires? my C4$ ran 295/30 stock for summers. Check tire size on chart on inside of filler flap.
  28. 1 point
    Well, that should not happen - changing the car battery should not affect the keys. Do the keys have good batteries? If all is okay then somehow the central locking and alarm module got confused and may need to be re-programmed.
  29. 1 point
    Did this happen after replacing the car battery? With or without Kessy?
  30. 1 point
    Sorry to be bringing up an old thread but just looking for some clarification on this one and trying to understand the nomenclature. Seeing that the deviation of bank one is off by 12 degrees Crk , but the actual angle read at idle is 1.1 degrees. Would it be fair to say the engine is working "full on " to adapt this car to try and maintain the 1.1 at idle and 25.94 at 2K ? just helping a friend with P1397 problem so got me interested in the whole theory of operation. The car we are working on is a 99 996 so has DME 5.2.2 . we can see deviation but 5.2.2 does not show actual ( unless I just cant see it ) which is a bit disappointing. I wanted to see if it jumps to 25 when actuating variocam but without seeing actual we wont know. Thanks
  31. 1 point
    I do have a complete set, which is the ECU, the kessy, the ignition lock, the steering lock still attached to the steering column and the key for a 2004 Cayenne S if someone is in need of getting going immediately. Email me at mrcbx@att.net if you need this, it will be cheaper than the dealer alternative, but please note this is for the V8 non-turbo only.
  32. 1 point
    Problem SOLVED. The switch is located underneath the driver's seat, just to the left of the battery box. The switch is easily accessed through the outboard most pre-cut section of carpet joined with a plastic cover (see photo). If you remove the seat and peel back the pre-cut carpet covering the battery you will have a much better view. BTW, the seat is very easy to remove. This switch has got some funky design features. The last 3 pictures should illustrate the features and the solution to my problem. Notice the channel that guides the sliding switch is in the shape of a C. I believe the FORWARD position allows the switch to be locked into what I would call Discharge Protection Manual Engagement--use this position when storing or transporting your vehicle to help prevent battery discharge. The AFT and OUT position is where the switch is located after an automatic triggering of the Discharge Protection logic (think circuit breaker tripped position). With the switch in any position between here and FWD, the Discharge Protection remains active. The AFT and IN position is visually not very distinct from the AFT and OUT position. I found it basically by accident and it is more easily determined to be in the correct position by feel rather than visually. The switch on my vehicle does not naturally "like" to go into that position, it takes a little finagling. Verify it's in the correct position by turning the ignition ON and observing the lack of Discharge Protection caution message/yellow battery indication on the MFD. I suppose this switch tripped because my old battery was weak and/or during the replacement due to low voltage from my jump start pack. Confounding the problem is the switch design--in the darkness of an underseat switch you might think that it just moves forward and aft. You might also not perceive the approximately 1mm difference in position from normal to tripped. Also a switch label and/or a mention in the manual wouldn't hurt!
  33. 1 point
    It seems that there are more and more cases of these faults appearing, and as some of our cars are reaching 10-12 years old, it is hardly surprising. I've compiled this information from past personal experience on both of my 996s, reading about others on here and other forums, referring to the workshop manual and wiring diagrams, and applying some logic. Hopefully you might find it useful, and save some grief when troubleshooting. DOOR MICROSWITCHES There are seven microswitches in each door which control the alarm system. Two are separate switches: a] One on the outside door handle. This switch is used to sense that the handle is lifted. b] One on the inside door handle, which has the same function. When the car is unlocked and either handle is lifted, this signals the alarm control module (ACM) to lower the appropriate window by 10mm, and turn on the interior lights. As soon as the door opens, another switch inside the door lock (explained later) tells the ACM that the door is open, which holds the window down until the door is closed, when the window is raised, and the dimming timer on the interior lights is started. Once the car is locked, the outside handle switches are ignored by the ACM. The remaining five switches are inside the door lock assembly: c] One switch senses if the door is open or closed. d] One senses that the key has been turned to the 'lock' position. e] Another senses that the key has been turned to the 'unlock' position. f] One senses that the door lock motor has reached the 'lock' position. g] Another senses that the door lock motor has reached the 'unlock' position. TYPICAL FAULTS All these microswitches can be problematic, and it is common for one or more to fail at some time. These are some of the common failures and symptoms: 1) The door window won't drop when lifting a handle. This is usually the handle microswitch which has failed. 2) The window drops, but goes back up when the door opens, or when the handle is released. This can be the handle microswitch, or more likely the 'door open/closed microswitch' ( c ) has stuck. Because the system thinks the door is still closed, it sends the window back up. 3) Door window won't go up the last 10mm. This is likely to be the 'door open/closed microswitch' ( c ) stuck in the opposite sense to (2). The system thinks the door is still open, so won't allow the window to go back up. Note that in this case the door will still lock, but you may get a single-beep from the alarm horn. 4) Door will not lock with key. The 'key lock' microswitch (d) is broken. This is very rare, as this microswitch is hardly ever used – most times the car is locked by remote. 5) Door will not unlock with key. The 'key lock' microswitch (e) is broken. This is also very rare, for the same reason. 6) Door locks, and then immediately unlocks, usually accompanied by a double-beep from the alarm horn. This is the 'door locked' microswitch (f). The locking motor physically operates the door lock, but the microswitch to sense this has failed/stuck. The ACM promptly unlocks the car. In this case, the only way to lock the door is to use the emergency locking procedure. Turn the key in the door to the lock position and back three times in quick succession. 7) The door unlocks, but there is a beep or double-beep from the alarm horn. This is the 'door unlocked' microswitch (g). Although the door is unlocked, the ACM has not recognised that. The alarm will not sound, as turning the key in the lock has deactivated it. FIXES The inside and outside handle microswitches are available separately, and are not too expensive. Although alternative equivalent switches may be available, the genuine Porsche switch comes with a connector and wiring, so it makes sense to use an original. Part Numbers: Inside handle microswitch: 996.613.123.00 (Same both sides) Outside handle microswitch: 996.613.125.00 (Left) / 996.613.126.00 (Right) The door lock microswitches are not available separately. You have to buy the complete door lock assembly, at a cost of around $120. It has been known for people to repair the offending switch though. This is a picture of a typical failure of a 'door open/close' microswitch (courtesy of another RennTech member): You can see that the plastic plunger has broken, jamming the switch lever inside. These switches are (apparently) made by Burgess, but as yet the source and part number are unknown. There are several other similar standard switches on the market for around $2, and people have stripped down the new switch and rebuilt the old one with the plunger from the new one. OTHER SWITCHES IN THE ALARM SYSTEM The other switches and contacts in the alarm system are to monitor the lid closures: Front lid microswitch Rear lid microswitch Oddment compartment microswitch Glove box microswitch Radio contact (to detect radio theft) An open compartment or switch failure will cause a single-beep of the alarm horn on locking. A system error will cause a double-beep. Other elements of the system include an interior monitoring sensor (in the overhead lighting), an alarm readiness light (on the dashboard in the centre) and a central locking button (on the dashboard). Options are a tilt sensor (next to the battery or under the left-hand seat) and an alarm siren (next to the battery).
  34. 1 point
    No one is suggesting that there are no other near equivalent fluids out there, but without a detailed factory spec sheet, it can be difficult to impossible for the average person to figure out which is which. Porsche is also well known for using unique lubricants in their manual gearboxes which are literally made to their specs. That does not mean there aren't other lubes that would work to some degree, but most find out the hard way that using aftermarket products lead to a litany of operational issues, and quite often damage as well. You might be surprised how many times we get cars in that had been switched to other products either by their owners or another shop, and problems resulted in the car coming to us because we use only the factory lubes. Several years ago I approached one of the known suppliers of these lubricants and was told outright that what they make for Porsche is unique to Porsche, and cannot be sold to anyone else because of exclusive marketing agreements between them and Porsche. As the result, we still buy ours from Porsche, albeit in drums, which are plainly marked as made by one of two companies. Based upon what I have been told by someone from the Porsche factory, they are (or were) ZF. As Porsche often uses more than one supplier, they may also some that come from other suppliers; but I was told ZF.
  35. 1 point
    Me? Where did I ask about "cheap unknown spec lubricants"? It is easy to find the exact specs for both of these fluids and anyone that hasn't heard of Febi Bilstein or Fuchs must have limited knowledge of European fluid suppliers. Can we all agree that Porsche doesn't produce ATF fluids in-house for the transmissions that they outsource from another vendor (Aisin or ZF....TBD) ? With that in mind, putting some effort into locating the original supplier/manufactuer of the fluid that Porsche specs for this 8-speed is hardly a foolish exercise, especially since we are talking about 8L - 9L of fluid at a $30 - $40 per L saving. Sounds like a sensible exercise to me. In my experience it usually possible to find a non-OE fluid (engine/trans/diff/brake) that is superior in quality to OE fluid (better base stock, less shear, higher VI, etc) for the same or less money. Car and Driver: "As with all the other gasoline engines, power is transmitted via a completely new eight-speed automatic transmission sourced from Aisin that shifts quickly and very smoothly." Road & Track: "The Aisin 8-speed Tiptronic automatic transmission eliminates the need for a low-range transfer case within the Cayenne's new lighter (surprise!), on-demand all-wheel-drive system, while Porsche claims faster (albeit imperceptible) shift speeds over 8-speed on-road-only gearbox." Maybe both sources are wrong?
  36. 1 point
    So, again in an effort to help others that might look for this in the future: 996 GT3, Airbag Light and Durametric fault " Code 30, ignition circuit - side airbag, passenger". Side airbag = door airbag: There was nothing wrong with it, the connector was good, and I also electrically swapped a spare airbag that I had, but the fault remained. Knowing the issue was coming from that circuit, and since I had disconnected the door and the controller when I stripped the car, I looked at both of those, looking for a bent pin, or? I expected the door connector to be the bad player since it's a bit less straightforward to connect and disconnect than the controller. While trying to identify the relevant pins on the big connector at the door jam to wring out the wires, I noticed that, with the connector off, the two pins/wires for the door airbag were shorted together (no doubt a shunt to prevent accidental airbag deployment when the connector is not connected). I also noticed that, in the connector, right next to the two pins, there was a small rectangular slot that matched a small plastic piece on the mating connector. At first I thought that it was an alignment device, but there was more to it than that, because there was a small piece of metal in the slot. While ohming the two airbag pins, I shoved a pick in the slot and suddenly, the two shorted pins/wires were no longer shorted, meaning that THE PLASTIC PIECE HAS TO BE ALL THE WAY INTO THE RECTANGULAR SLOT so that the circuit is in an acceptable state for the airbag controller. So again, even if the connector appears to be connected, you need more than just the pins to be in contact, you need the plastic tab to be all the way in to the slot. These pins and slot are part of a sub-connector within the main door connector and the sub-connector is somewhat free to move a bit. I made sure that it was all the way in and now my airbag light is gone. I'm sitting in the car with the laptop, having gone back in with the Durametric to clear the code, and decided to tell my story. Hopefully it can help someone. Case closed :)
  37. 1 point
    Yes, the Tip controller can not switch the valve if it is off (fuse removed) - nor can the vacuum valve switch with the engine off.
  38. 1 point
    So, I'm going to update this thread as I go along in case anyone else needs this info going forward. Although there are a lot of "radio" threads out there it appears that the vast majority of Cayenne buyers got the Bose sound package and thus I could not find conclusive information so here goes: My '05 Cayenne base does not have the bose sound upgrade package and does not have an amp, just a fiber optic connected CD changer. (translation: the MOST system in my Cayenne is only utilized for the CD changer) Basics: if the speakers don't have the Bose logo you probably don't have bose. The CD changer is located in the rear right cargo behind pull off panel. My understanding is a non-bose amp would be located above the CD changer, that space can be viewed with a flashlight at the correct angle. Original radio is the CDR-23 single din. The back of the radio has three plugs (the top with three wires is the steering controls, the middle with 8 wires are the speakers, the bottom with three wires is the power/antenna). In addition there is the antenna connection on the far left and a pair of FIBER OPTIC cables. In this setup, the Fiber Optics cables run directly to the CD changer and that appears to be it. I unplugged the fiber optic behind the radio and EVERYTHING works fine (radio, steering controls, dash still shows the station/song). The CD changer obviously does not work but the CD slot on the head unit does work. With 8 speaker wires in the back of the radio, it is evident these are running straight to the speakers, confirmed by the fact that no amp was found. Also, called Becker and they confirmed that some becker units are not programmed to be used with an amp and most cars with an amp use a smaller yellow plug in the middle slot instead of the 8 speaker wires. So for the Radio swap all I need is a new head unit and wiring harness, essentially it is now plug and play (thank you previous owner for only getting the basic radio option). After some back and forth with a few car stereo and online sellers, the correct harness appears to be the Connects2 model CTSPO001 and is about a US$100 part. This does include steering wheel controls which would negate the need to buy the US$50 ASWC-1 part. (so essentially 50 for the basic harness and 50 for the steering controls) The fiber optic plug will just be taped off behind the unit since I have no need for the CD changer (definitely not spending 500 for a fiber connection to tie it in), they also sell a fiber optic loop connection for 10-25 so I might do that just in case its better to have the fiber loop closed. Other parts that are easily identified elsewhere: dash trim by Metra 95-9600, another one by Connects2 CT23PO01. Antenna is 40-EU10 but it appears there are a couple almost identical to choose but know once hooked up. Since the speaker wires are behind the head unit it would be easy to setup an amp in the front of the vehicle or possibly under the hood since any wires (power/speakers) wouldn't have to be routed all the way to the back of the vehicle. Parts are all on order, will update when everything is connected.
  39. 1 point
    Hi everyone. A couple of days ago, the PSM & ABS warning lights lit up on my 2001 Carrera. A quick search on this Forum suggested a faulty brake pedal switch. Checked my brake lights and sure enough, no lights so a faulty switch is definitely indicated. After about 30 minutes of twisting my body under the dash, managed to get it out. Sure enough, the switch has an open circuit. Bought a new switch and plugged it into the harness. Tested the plunger on the switch to see if the brakes lights work - but they did not. However, no PSM/ABS lights showing which is an improvement. Seemed odd to me but I have seen stranger on this car so I press ahead. Another 30 minutes of twisting my body under the dash and finally re-installed the new switch under the pedal. But now the PSM/ABS lights turn on again and still no brake lights! Back to square one! Removed the switch (now it takes me only 5 minutes to twist my body under the dash) and check it out. Checks out perfectly. And NO PSM/ABS lights with the switch plugged in but not installed under the pedal. Hmmmm. Check fuses and all the usual stuff. Everything fine. Thought about the brake light bulbs but what are chances of all 3 brake lights burned out all at once??? Surely at least one of them should be working so I can at least tell whether the brake light circuits are OK. Seriously considering taking the car to the dealer. Reinstall the switch under the pedal (I can now do that in less than 30 seconds of twisting). Check the driver side brake light bulb. It's burned out! Check the passenger side bulb. That is also burned out. Check the centre brake light - that one is OK. So why don't I at least have a centre brake light when I press the brake pedal??? Replace the driver side bulb. But still no brake lights anywhere! Remove the new bulb and check it out. Nothing wrong with it. So I replace the passenger side bulb and suddenly everything works fine, including the centre brake light! And no ABS/PSM lights! Everything fine!!! Question. Are the circuits really designed so that if one brake bulb fails, none of the others will work? Doesn't make sense to me. Lesson 1. Do the simple things first, eg. replace ALL bad bulbs before testing. Though I still don't understand why one dead bulb suppresses the other two brake lights AND turns on the ABS/PSM warning lights. Or perhaps this was just some random weird chain of events! Lesson 2. Amazing how something that originally takes 30 minutes can be done in 30 seconds with a little practice!
  40. 1 point
    The most likely cause of this particular problem is inside the door lock assembly, inside the door. It's either in the circuit board or in the microswitch in that assembly. There are a number of soldered connections on a small circuit board inside that door lock assembly which can crack and cause the exact problem that you have described. The soldered connections on the circuit board can be reheated and re-soldered for a good repair. The microswitch usually can only be replaced but Porsche does not sell that microswitch bi itself, only the complete assembly. To definitively determine the cause you will have to remove the door panel and peel back the waterproof covering and then remove and test the door lock assembly. Here is a photo of my door lock assembly ('97 Boxster), yours will look very similar. The circuit board in question is inside the large white plastic housing and the soldered connections that usually crack are the ones that are on the edge of the circuit board, where the connector is attached (near the top left corner of the photo). The movement (from its weight) of the connector is probably what causes the cracks. There are a lot of posts on the microswitch issue on this forum. Do a search here and you'll get a better idea of what you are dealing with if it turns out to be the microswitch. BTW, to see the cracks in the solder you will need a large magnifying glass. They are almost microscopic. It won't cost you anything to inspect the circuit board or to fix it if you are good with a soldering iron before considering the expense of a replacement door lock assembly. Regards, Maurice.
  41. 1 point
    How about some experience instead? For decades, Porsche has recommended running a dose of Techron in their cars for this exact purpose. We have used in in the shop since the day we opened our doors. Our standard "pre-hibernation" service recommendation's include running a full tank of Techron dosed fuel through the engine just before bringing the car in for its last service of the season in preparation for putting the car away for the winter, which includes an oil and filter change, pre winter battery and coolant system checks, and a full inspection of the car's systems. Afterwards, air up the tires, a full tank of fuel dosed with StaBil, a full cleaning of the car, hook it up to a battery maintainer, and put the dust cover over it until spring. Never had one start the next season with fuel system related issues in more than thirty years. I cannot make that statement about cars that were not dosed with Techron before storage. We sometimes get a poor running car in the shop with no codes or other apparent issues. Sometimes we see them with codes indicating a possible of one or more leaking injectors; as a precursor to spending a lot of time and the customer's cash, we have them invest $15-20 in a bottle of Techron and run the car for a couple days. More often than not, the problem disappears. We have had the opportunity to bore scope cars before and after using Techron, you would be amazed at the difference in the combustion chambers and the tops of the pistons, which is why you should always change your oil after using it. Techron is not a "miracle in a bottle", but it does live up to its claims.
  42. 1 point
    To be thorough and follow-up (hopefully for good), let me offer the following. Hopefully this helps anyone with the same problem in the future. Since the people on this site (JFP in PA, etc) were so nice to offer their time to help me, I think it's the least I can do.....I really, really appreciate everyone that helped me through this issue. Everything I said above is true. Replacing the voltage regulator did get the voltage to stop bouncing around and I stopped getting PSM/ABS failures, etc. It made the car drivable again. However, on short distance trips to run errands I noticed the battery was slowly draining. I was able to keep the car operable by hooking my car up to my C-Tek 7200 charger/maintainer at night. In the process of all of this I had the wiring harness (the one that goes from alternator -> starter -> junction block) replaced because there was some resistance as you traced its path from the alternator. I believe there is a TSB on that and I understand that the issue is so common that most dealers keep the part in stock. However the battery was still being drained after all of that. I was so confused since I had the alternator tested at Auto Zone and their diagnostic said it was fine. Indeed, electrical problems can be difficult to track down. It turns out my alternator was bad and I think it was subjecting the voltage regulator to high stress and caused it to fail. This is the chicken-and-the-egg problems so I don't know what caused what, but that's my best guess. As I would find out later, my alternator was working just fine at higher RPMs so highway driving was just fine. However, at idle RPM it wasn't working 100%. This explains why the short trips to run errands were problematic. I guess another moral of the story is don't always trust Auto Zone's alternator testing equipment. I'm sure it will tell you if your alternator is completely dead, but it certainly didn't catch mine which was half-working. So I ordered a new alternator from Vertex. Part is 996-603-012-02 for my 2002 C4S manual transmission. Cost was $375 total shipped (after $200 deposit to return old core). Replacing the alternator is one of the easier things to do on this vehicle as long as you follow Loren's DIY and uncsrew the bolt just slightly and tap the bolt head with a deadblow hammer to loosen the back bushing on the alternator from the engine flange.
  43. 1 point
  44. 1 point
    I like pictures when I read a DIY, so I made these up to demonstrate what you are in for when you want to change your plugs. Use these pictures in conjunction with the writeup by ebaker...
  45. 1 point
    I change the driver side fuel pump (primary) last week end. If you need to drive the car and avoid to pay a towing, just remove the #1 pump relay in the engine compartment fuse box. You need a torx 30 because the relay is located in the hidden part right next to the firewall. If your car starts and stall in less than 30 secs... Remove the key, remove the #1 fuel pump relay, then restart the car. If the car still running after 30 secs, like me your primary fuel pump is defect. By doing this, the computer think there is no fuel on left side and run the secondary pump !!! I drove the cayenne about 60 miles with the second pump to the dealer to buy the fuel pump, small pipe and 2 seal because you need to open both side under the seat. The fuel pump have many pipe attached to it with different size and lenght to avoid bad connection. Two pipes are running from left to right. The job is not easy but you need to do it when the tank is almost empty or use a manual pump like me. Do it outside, the smell is horrible and take a tylenol. Dont forget to clean the fuel filter on the top plate driver side, I never seen so much black dirt in a small filter... I clean it 8 times in fuel bowl and reinstall it. I suspect dirt filter may cause the pump problem. To remove the bolt under the seat use M10 and they are very very tight and this is probably the biggest job to do. Then have a beer and congratulate you for saving 1,000$. I have all the pdf very helpfull if you want it, let me know.
  46. 1 point
    If you look at the picture on the prior page it was frayed exactly where the red felt pads were placed. That's were a small part was cut out by the dealer. To add to the renewed discussion, i'd been meaning to send in some pics of the fix on what the end result was that rid me of this little niggle. It was as simple as purchasing some felt tape (or equivalent) and working it around the area to reduce the friction. This is how it currently looks: - I just had to be sure that all surfaces that the strap is in contact with were sufficiently covered to prevent any contact with the plastic. Other than that and how always it's the case, a pain to discover but simple to remedy. Regards Pop OMG. This is by FAR the best thread I've read. For 2 years now i've had this very exact cracking noise and nobody (dealers) knew where it came from. It just tried your fix and it took all of 5 minutes and 2 bucks. Sound is now GONE. Pop. i think i love you. LOL
  47. 1 point
    I got sick of not having cupholders in my Boxster. So I set out to find some. The options seemed to be OEM cupholders, either the clip on type, or the single DIN type. And we all know the problems with those - not secure enough fit, not accommodating large cups, etc. Also, the DIN type takes up an entire vertical DIN slot, making fitting double DIN GPS impossible. Other solutions seem to be to use a cutout for cups in the centre console box - which means the lid needs to stay open; and "ultimate cupholder" - which doesn't look OEM at all. So I was searching for generic cupholders on Ebay, and found this: http://cgi.ebay.com....=item439b780b6e And from a seller, the dimensions are: 7 7/16" long by 1" just the cover lid, assembly is 7" x 4 3/4" The width is as close to OEM fit for the Boxster as it gets, for a non-Porsche part! So I bought it. Realising that late model VWs like Passat and Jetta has the same console width as our Boxster, I then bought this: http://cgi.ebay.com....=item3ca672b7af It's entirely possible that other units like this http://cgi.ebay.com....=item3356ef534c would also fit. And before you start, get a rotary tool (like a Dremel). It's an absolute god send! Made things so easy. Here is the unit: Compared to another double DIN unit I originally planned for the mod: The difference is the newer one has a hi res screen. I actually rather liked the volume knob on the low res one. I put the cupholder and GPS unit together, with double sided tape, like this: You can also mount the cupholder on top, like this: I chose to go with the bottom fit, because I don't really like cups placed that high, and the bottom fit actually takes up a few mm less in height, which gives a better fit in the horseshoe frame. Speaking of frame, it's cut up, like this: There was a lip on the inner aspect of the lower border, this was cut to make room to increase the height. This, together with some slight sanding of the bottom of the cupholder was all that's required to make the height of the combo fit just right. Incredibly lucky! Note, you must get rid of the lower lip much as you can. Or the cupholder would be clamped too tight between the frame and the GPS, and it doesn't open when clamped tight. In the above picture, you can see I turned the OEM metal bracket around. This was necessary as the cupholder doesn't extend as deep as the OEM stereo, so the bracket support needs to come forward. You need to drill a hole in the original bracket to allow this. The reason will be very apparent when you actually do this. Here is a close up of the reversed bracket: The GPS antenna is simply placed near the alarm cover. Remove the alarm cover first, thread the GPS wire through, then just fish for it through the horseshoe frame. No need to remove anything else to place the GPS antenna. The thick wire attached to the GPS wire is the loom for my Head-Up-Display (another mod, for another day) :) The rest of the wiring here, with the unit ready to be pushed in: Here is the test fit: You can see that I will need a "n" shaped bezel to fill out the gap. This was obtained by modifying the Passat bezel that came with the GPS. The width is an exact fit, just like the cupholder (maybe 1mm longer, but I just left it). So I just sanded down the top border of the frame. And cut off the bottom border. I don't have a picture with the bottom border removed, only with the thinned top border: Press it in, it's a snug fit, not even sticky taped. And voooowwlaahhh!!!! OEM look!! From afar: With cupholder open: With a large "cup": In summary, get a genuine Jetta cupholder and an aftermarket Passat double DIN GPS! (not affliated with the seller/s, I promise) :)
  48. 1 point
    In the diagram, the switch looks upside down. And where are the two Allen screws and plugs? Thanks. Oh, and I broke the switch lever exactly as you did!
  49. 1 point
    During my travels, I try, like many of you, to visit with Porsche folks. Met some really nice people willing to take the time to shoot the breeze about their cars over the years I have a fun collection of some of the nicest and most unique shops where these people work on their cars. Some of these "shops" are as nice as the houses they are attached to! So I created a new section on my site for the displaying of these "shops". So if you have some pictures of your shop, send them to me and I'll post them. There is one up there now that has been my favorite so far. The shop is as nice as the guy that owns it. Some of the old timers from the east coast may recognize it. http://www.cyberwerkstatt.com Then click on the "The Werkstatt" Link ed www.cyberwerkstatt.com :renntech:
  50. 1 point
    New to this forum and seeing if there is something different outside the 356 Registry. I run a small website dedicated to the 356 and thought it might be of some value to the members here. http://www.cyberwerkstatt.com Check it out and let me know if it is helpful. ed www.cyberwerkstatt.com
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