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Showing content with the highest reputation since 02/20/2019 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    The horn beeps and lights flashing is the alarm system telling you there is a alarm system zone fault somewhere. Could be an open (or maybe in this case closed/locked when it should be open) zone. Zones are: drivers/passenger doors, trunk lid, engine lid, glass (targa) top, gas cap lid, center console lid, and if you have it the glove box door. There are also two interior sensors in the overhead that detect motion when the car is locked. I think getting to the battery and disconnecting is a good idea. However, you have a problem since the trunk is not opening. First thing to try is actually seeing if the trunk is already open. Put your fingers under the trunk lid and try pulling up. Second is to locate the emergency release cable under the passenger side headlight. Unfortunately you need to pop the headlight out to make this a simple exercise, and you can't do that without opening the trunk. So you have to pull the passenger wheel well liner and fish out the cable from behind. Hopefully your wheel lock socket is not in your trunk!
  2. 2 points
    LONG STORY SHORT,,...My entry and drive system went bad one day., after almost a year of testing , replacing the battery, buying the test tool, almost brought a china piwis ,.... and bringing it to dealer and 800 dollars of dealer time., I had it fixed for 5 Dollars in parts. and one hr of soldering at first my kessy do not communicate to the darmatic tool or PIWIS at all, the dealer went ahead try to replace it , with a superseeded module, HOWEVER they wasn't able to program it for unknown reason, there is no module out there that will take my car's pin and complete the marry process because they said all the module has been superceeded. The dealer offer me to replace ALL the module in the car to an updated version for a cheapo $3000 dollars.! OF COURSE I refused,. ...,. I only lost my alarm horn , entry and drive function and its not worth $3000 dollars,. I was investigating myself trying to see what causing the problem, I came in to the touareg forum and found out those guys there have a lot of the problems with their module too. ... I was like ,hum.,,. then go under my dash and found the kessy module that is EXACTLY the same as theirs including the part number (WHICH IS A VW part number stamped on a sticker btw).... there is one guy there that took his module to a local electrician and found he has 2 fried mofset and 6 fried resistors.!!! I was like, fxxx it, why don't I give it a try, at first I couldn't found the 0.22ohm resistors (its was HARD trust me I took almost 2 months looking for them)., so I went ahead replaced the two mofset........... 15 mins and a lot of smoke later....... MAN,,,... the module can communicate with my Durametic tool...! HOWEVER,, all the antennas are reporting short to ground ERROR!!! I tried to clear it but the code come back instantly. then I went on to test the resistor value,... and found all six of the 0.22ohm resistors are SHORT (they are fusible resistor btw)....,,. sooooo I tried my best and finally able to locate those 0.22 ohm resistor .., fast forward 2 months later............ I received those resistors today.............. another 15 mins of smoke and sweat with my resoldering station... I plug the module back... run the scan tool clean the fault codes!!!!................... moment of truth,, I plug my dummy key in to the key cyclinder with the real key in my pocket!!!!!!!!!!!!! turn and the CAR STARTS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I have successfully fixed a $3000 dollars repair (that don't guarantee will work) with 5 dollars worth of resistors !!!!!! NOTE: IF your kessy don't communicate with the scan tool,. Its the TWO MOFSET that is Fried. if you have all antennas short to ground or not responding its the 6 resistors!
  3. 2 points
    Updated Mileage: 288,565. 2018 Round trips included NY to Seattle and NY to New Orleans. Still not driving as much as I'd like. #4 cylinder down to 75%. Trying to hold out to 300k before rebuild.
  4. 2 points
    EDIT: Additional info added at bottom of tutorial, refers to recently found info, clarifying how many different fluids are needed for the 970 generation of Panamera PDK (at end of tutorial). Attached is a DIY for changing fluid on Panamera PDK transmission. Got this from a fellow forum member who happened to do the change. This should help many interested in doing maintenance on Panamera without paying thousands for it. Speaking to shop/dealer, after 60k, filter/pan replacement not absolutely necessary (cost of the kit is about $350). So for 60k, drain and refill fluid is fine. At 120k, you would do same fluid change, but this time replace the pan/filter as well. Read the entire DIY before you start to get a good idea of requirements and estimate time involvement for you to complete. Do not forget to replace the drain plug with its built in seal. Last thing you need is have a $15 part cause small leaking, and then have to put car up, open up drain plug, lose a bunch of expensive oil, just to put new drain plug in. So dont cut on this one part. You can get the Pentosine FFL3 PDK fluid directly from Porsche, or from Pentosine resellers. Porsche will charge you triple the price for identical fluid. You choose. Everything you need is mentioned in the DIY. Since Durametric does not have capability to monitor PDK temperature yet, you can use an IR thermometer, when you heat up the PDK to 40 celsius, after you put in 6-8 quarts or so, and when doing final level check. Good luck. 970 generation Panamera PDK transmission info: ZF is manufacturer of PDK transmission for Porsche They make 2 PDK transmissions One for mid & rear engine applications (911, boxter, etc) Another one specifically made for the Panamera Panamera PDK servicing requires two (2) fluids only (as compared to 3 fluids in other PDK car models at Porsche FFL3 fluid - Gearbox & clutches - need about 9 quarts Shell TF0951 - Front final drive - need about 0.4 quarts Here is the info dug up from ZF on this topic: "In fact, two separate DCT ranges or 'platforms' have been developed by ZF, both fitted with wet clutches, for use in Porsche's various longitudinal applications. The first is for use in the mid- and rear-engine sports cars (the 911, the Cayman and the Boxster), while a completely different platform has been developed for use in the larger Panamera. For each platform, two different torque options are available, with the 500N.m versions using an 'ND2015' clutch pack, and the 780N.m versions using an 'ND2216' clutch pack, both supplied by ZF Sachs....... In terms of the oil circuit itself, two completely different approaches have been employed for the two platforms. Non Panamera models: The 7DT45 and 7DT70 have two oil circuits, and hence two different oils; the first is Pentosin FFL-3 for the clutch and hydraulics, and the second is ExxonMobil Mobilube PTX 75W-90 for the gear-set and bevel gear. The oil levels have been kept as low as possible, to reduce churning losses for those moving parts that are immersed in oil. Panamera: Conversely, the 7DT75 has a single oil circuit and a dry sump (to minimize churning losses), with an 'active lubrication system' to feed oil to each gear-set and clutch. This version uses only the Pentosin FFL-3 lubricant, which was developed exclusively for the ZF DCTs. One of the main reasons for using a single oil circuit is that clutch cooling is required at both ends of the transmission, for the main dual-clutch module and for the hang-on clutch used in the four-wheel-drive variant. This would have presented significant sealing complications had multiple circuits been chosen." Bottom line: What this means is that the Panamera PDK uses transmission design which uses one fluid compartment for the gearbox and the clutches, and another separate compartment for the final drive. Two fluids total.
  5. 1 point
    In total desperation, you may have to pry the alternator out. Rotate it as far as possible clockwise, remove the long bolt and pulley, and try to jam a thick screwdriver or small pry bar underneath the alternator rear mount arm. You might have to be creative with a block or piece of wood to get the leverage right. Be very careful of the oil filler tube. It can crack easily.
  6. 1 point
    The bushing only needs to move enough that you can rotate the alternator up and out. It does not have to be pushed all the way into the rear mount arm. It really only has to move enough that you can lift up the right side of the alternator easily. Once you have the alternator out you will see how it all works. With the left bolt out, how easily can you rotate the alternator up? Or can you not rotate it at all?
  7. 1 point
    In many states these upgrades are illegal due to excessive glare as the headlight's do not have the correct projectors to create the proper beam cut off. Absolute ticket bait as well.
  8. 1 point
  9. 1 point
  10. 1 point
    Undo fastening screws 1. To reduce the unclipping forces and thereby the risk of damage during removal, the removal steps must be carried out at the accessible connection points using a suitable tool. Unclip trim panel for spring strut mount 2 first upwards Arrows A and then pull out slightly in direction of Arrow B. Check fastening nuts 1 and clamps 2, 3, and replace if necessary.
  11. 1 point
    I would say the top unit is a knock off. We have had absolutely no luck with aftermarket AOS units, some even failing right out of the box. Considering how annoying they can be to swap out, it ain’t worth the price differential.
  12. 1 point
    Get the CEL code again and post. Before you proceed, either DIY or shop, we can help you narrow this down. I certainly would want to know specifically and exactly that this is the problem before chasing ghosts and replacing parts. Also, what year and model? Other recent maintenance or problems? There are other valves and components in the evap system to consider. See here Carbon Canister WWW.AUTOATLANTA.COM
  13. 1 point
  14. 1 point
    I just completed a similar job. I used a ball joint separator to press the studs out. All 6 studs out in less than 10 minutes!
  15. 1 point
    1999 C2 Manual Bought last October with ~114k No maintenance history, original IMS. Going through and doing maintenance now and am sitting at 115k miles. Runs like a top with minimal oil seapage from sump plate. Debating if I should go full retard and Upgrade IMS along with other bits or see what my luck brings with the original 2 row IMS
  16. 1 point
    The DME and sensors are very capable of making adjustments within their design bounds for most modifications; if you have gone extreme, you may need to look at the tune vs. the A/F ratio, timing curve, etc.
  17. 1 point
    I am not 100% certain, but if you take off the plastic trim cover covering the hood latch, you should be able to see everything. You pull the interior cover back a bit to reach the bolts that hold the hood latch to the frame. It is all pretty straight forward from there.
  18. 1 point
    Joe is right and I stand corrected. #1 and #3 are shown in this pic.
  19. 1 point
    The hoses 1 and 3 are the supply and return lines for the front radiators. They are located on the back side of the engine near the transmission. They connect to the metal supply and return lines that run up the center transmission tunnel and go to the front radiators. You probably have to remove the underbelly pans to see them. Those hoses attach to #9 and #10 here M96.01/02/03 Water Cooling 2 M96.04 WWW.AUTOATLANTA.COM
  20. 1 point
    Per the photos on Pelican of those two hoses, it looks like the one ending with "-05", which includes the small T nipple section.
  21. 1 point
    Thought i'd record what i found for posterity. The issue was the driver's side (UK) door handle micro switch. I stripped the door down enough to view the window motor spindle. I could see that it was only (intermittently) driving in one direction. Thus i guessed there was a logic issue. I started exercising the door handle microswitches then i noted that I was able to get the motor to drive in both directions. Re-assembled the door and the window is fine now. I guess that the circuit 'thought' that the window was already fully up and would not allow the motor to drive in that direction. Hope this helps someone.
  22. 1 point
  23. 1 point
  24. 1 point
    Mice and rats can get just about anywhere in the harness, you simply have to get a good light and start tracing wires. I'd start with the engine bay and any wires under the vehicle first as they are the most accessible to the rodents.
  25. 1 point
    i would ensure emergency blinkers are on and engine is off when you clear faults in all modules.
  26. 1 point
    I just installed a Pioneer AVH-2440NEX, Metra 99-9604b dash kit and Scosche LPPE15 wiring interface from Crutchfield in my 2005 Cayenne. Absolutely terrific sound. Existing amplifier and subwoofer work great. I highly recommend using their $25 ReadyHarness Service tp pre-wire everything. Like others in this forum, I needed to trim the dash plate to get a nice flush mount. The USB AUX adapter from Amazon fits perfectly in an unused dash hole. Total installation was was less than $700. $350 for the radio and about the same for the harnesses. The Axxess ASWC-1 steering wheel control adapter is not needed. A 3.5m plug on the adapter fits in the back of the radio and gives steering wheel volume and track control.
  27. 1 point
    Posting this here for a future reference.... I recently had to replace my ignition switch (2001 boxster s), all of the data online shows the steps involved with working in a cramped position with one's head under the dash trying to get a tiny flat-tip screwdriver into position. That really brought out my claustrophobic demons for a dusting when I was trying to maneuver into position, even though I managed to achieve a really good back stretch. Yet I couldn't get the screws loose that were holding the switch in place. My ultimate solution: Removing the headlight switch assembly and the single screw supporting the heating duct against the backwall. It seems like more work, but it is really easy to do and it makes loosening the two screws holding the ignition switch in place a breeze to loosen from a more comfortable upright position. Hope someone benefits from this tip.
  28. 1 point
    Color codes front to rear are different. They are also different depending on RoW or US/Canada springs (ride height). They are also different depending on coupe or cabriolet -and whether you have a manual (6-speed) or Tiptronic.
  29. 1 point
    Welcome to RennTech Before going down the LS path, you might want to talk to one or two of the forum members that have done the LS swap; general consensus is that they would never do it again.
  30. 1 point
    Glad to hear you got it sorted without splitting the case!
  31. 1 point
    After a few emails and a couple of phone conversations, I have decided to send my car to Flat 6 Innovations. Jake believes it is a broken chain (he has seen these symptoms many times) and I tend to agree. Hopefully I don't have any piston damage and I will get the car back in a few weeks. But if there is piston damage I would get an entire engine reconstruction which takes 8 to 10 months... Although a Raby rebuild would be nice.
  32. 1 point
    When somebody takes good care of their car, there is little that can be said in a situation such as that other than commiserations. I wish you good luck.
  33. 1 point
    Thanks for the PN! Doesn't look very expensive, my local dealership has it for $26 and the o-ring is less than $2. I think the thermostat is on the back of the 3.2 V6 but for the 3.6 V6 the thermostat is on the side of the engine (driver side). I know this because I replaced it during my cooling system refresh at 90k miles. However, there does seem to be a housing for something back there, I'm just not sure what it is..
  34. 1 point
    Problem SOLVED. The switch is located underneath the driver's seat, just to the left of the battery box. The switch is easily accessed through the outboard most pre-cut section of carpet joined with a plastic cover (see photo). If you remove the seat and peel back the pre-cut carpet covering the battery you will have a much better view. BTW, the seat is very easy to remove. This switch has got some funky design features. The last 3 pictures should illustrate the features and the solution to my problem. Notice the channel that guides the sliding switch is in the shape of a C. I believe the FORWARD position allows the switch to be locked into what I would call Discharge Protection Manual Engagement--use this position when storing or transporting your vehicle to help prevent battery discharge. The AFT and OUT position is where the switch is located after an automatic triggering of the Discharge Protection logic (think circuit breaker tripped position). With the switch in any position between here and FWD, the Discharge Protection remains active. The AFT and IN position is visually not very distinct from the AFT and OUT position. I found it basically by accident and it is more easily determined to be in the correct position by feel rather than visually. The switch on my vehicle does not naturally "like" to go into that position, it takes a little finagling. Verify it's in the correct position by turning the ignition ON and observing the lack of Discharge Protection caution message/yellow battery indication on the MFD. I suppose this switch tripped because my old battery was weak and/or during the replacement due to low voltage from my jump start pack. Confounding the problem is the switch design--in the darkness of an underseat switch you might think that it just moves forward and aft. You might also not perceive the approximately 1mm difference in position from normal to tripped. Also a switch label and/or a mention in the manual wouldn't hurt!
  35. 1 point
  36. 1 point
    So, again in an effort to help others that might look for this in the future: 996 GT3, Airbag Light and Durametric fault " Code 30, ignition circuit - side airbag, passenger". Side airbag = door airbag: There was nothing wrong with it, the connector was good, and I also electrically swapped a spare airbag that I had, but the fault remained. Knowing the issue was coming from that circuit, and since I had disconnected the door and the controller when I stripped the car, I looked at both of those, looking for a bent pin, or? I expected the door connector to be the bad player since it's a bit less straightforward to connect and disconnect than the controller. While trying to identify the relevant pins on the big connector at the door jam to wring out the wires, I noticed that, with the connector off, the two pins/wires for the door airbag were shorted together (no doubt a shunt to prevent accidental airbag deployment when the connector is not connected). I also noticed that, in the connector, right next to the two pins, there was a small rectangular slot that matched a small plastic piece on the mating connector. At first I thought that it was an alignment device, but there was more to it than that, because there was a small piece of metal in the slot. While ohming the two airbag pins, I shoved a pick in the slot and suddenly, the two shorted pins/wires were no longer shorted, meaning that THE PLASTIC PIECE HAS TO BE ALL THE WAY INTO THE RECTANGULAR SLOT so that the circuit is in an acceptable state for the airbag controller. So again, even if the connector appears to be connected, you need more than just the pins to be in contact, you need the plastic tab to be all the way in to the slot. These pins and slot are part of a sub-connector within the main door connector and the sub-connector is somewhat free to move a bit. I made sure that it was all the way in and now my airbag light is gone. I'm sitting in the car with the laptop, having gone back in with the Durametric to clear the code, and decided to tell my story. Hopefully it can help someone. Case closed :)
  37. 1 point
    Hi everyone. A couple of days ago, the PSM & ABS warning lights lit up on my 2001 Carrera. A quick search on this Forum suggested a faulty brake pedal switch. Checked my brake lights and sure enough, no lights so a faulty switch is definitely indicated. After about 30 minutes of twisting my body under the dash, managed to get it out. Sure enough, the switch has an open circuit. Bought a new switch and plugged it into the harness. Tested the plunger on the switch to see if the brakes lights work - but they did not. However, no PSM/ABS lights showing which is an improvement. Seemed odd to me but I have seen stranger on this car so I press ahead. Another 30 minutes of twisting my body under the dash and finally re-installed the new switch under the pedal. But now the PSM/ABS lights turn on again and still no brake lights! Back to square one! Removed the switch (now it takes me only 5 minutes to twist my body under the dash) and check it out. Checks out perfectly. And NO PSM/ABS lights with the switch plugged in but not installed under the pedal. Hmmmm. Check fuses and all the usual stuff. Everything fine. Thought about the brake light bulbs but what are chances of all 3 brake lights burned out all at once??? Surely at least one of them should be working so I can at least tell whether the brake light circuits are OK. Seriously considering taking the car to the dealer. Reinstall the switch under the pedal (I can now do that in less than 30 seconds of twisting). Check the driver side brake light bulb. It's burned out! Check the passenger side bulb. That is also burned out. Check the centre brake light - that one is OK. So why don't I at least have a centre brake light when I press the brake pedal??? Replace the driver side bulb. But still no brake lights anywhere! Remove the new bulb and check it out. Nothing wrong with it. So I replace the passenger side bulb and suddenly everything works fine, including the centre brake light! And no ABS/PSM lights! Everything fine!!! Question. Are the circuits really designed so that if one brake bulb fails, none of the others will work? Doesn't make sense to me. Lesson 1. Do the simple things first, eg. replace ALL bad bulbs before testing. Though I still don't understand why one dead bulb suppresses the other two brake lights AND turns on the ABS/PSM warning lights. Or perhaps this was just some random weird chain of events! Lesson 2. Amazing how something that originally takes 30 minutes can be done in 30 seconds with a little practice!
  38. 1 point
    The most likely cause of this particular problem is inside the door lock assembly, inside the door. It's either in the circuit board or in the microswitch in that assembly. There are a number of soldered connections on a small circuit board inside that door lock assembly which can crack and cause the exact problem that you have described. The soldered connections on the circuit board can be reheated and re-soldered for a good repair. The microswitch usually can only be replaced but Porsche does not sell that microswitch bi itself, only the complete assembly. To definitively determine the cause you will have to remove the door panel and peel back the waterproof covering and then remove and test the door lock assembly. Here is a photo of my door lock assembly ('97 Boxster), yours will look very similar. The circuit board in question is inside the large white plastic housing and the soldered connections that usually crack are the ones that are on the edge of the circuit board, where the connector is attached (near the top left corner of the photo). The movement (from its weight) of the connector is probably what causes the cracks. There are a lot of posts on the microswitch issue on this forum. Do a search here and you'll get a better idea of what you are dealing with if it turns out to be the microswitch. BTW, to see the cracks in the solder you will need a large magnifying glass. They are almost microscopic. It won't cost you anything to inspect the circuit board or to fix it if you are good with a soldering iron before considering the expense of a replacement door lock assembly. Regards, Maurice.
  39. 1 point
    P2293 Fuel - high pressure Possible fault causes: - Predelivery quantity or pressure in fuel low pressure circuit too low - Pressure relief valve in high pressure circuit faulty - Fuel high pressure sensor faulty - Quantity control valve faulty (in fuel high pressure pump) - Fuel high pressure pump faulty - High pressure injector(s) (fuel injector(s)) faulty
  40. 1 point
    So here are a couple of snaps. I have my headliner out if anyone needs a specific shot of anything just ask. At the back of the sunroof frame is a drain. It has a bit of a reservoir then the tube to the back of the car. I sat inside the car while a buddy with a hose sprayed the roof of the car. No water came in. So i moved the car onto an incline and water started to drip. (Don't park on an incline, is the only answer i can come up with) If the reservoir gets too much water then it will leak over the frame and onto your headliner. I am going to go full black alcantara for the interior of the PIG. So more pics will follow. Interestingly one of my drain tubes is blue. The others grey. Carfax was clean, so no real idea as to why this was changed. Although when it rains and rains i have water when i open up my rear drivers side door. Attached is a picture of the plastic piece where the drains hook up to. I wanted to make sure this was 100% clean so i took it out. You can see the factory sealant that was displaced when i removed it.
  41. 1 point
    To be thorough and follow-up (hopefully for good), let me offer the following. Hopefully this helps anyone with the same problem in the future. Since the people on this site (JFP in PA, etc) were so nice to offer their time to help me, I think it's the least I can do.....I really, really appreciate everyone that helped me through this issue. Everything I said above is true. Replacing the voltage regulator did get the voltage to stop bouncing around and I stopped getting PSM/ABS failures, etc. It made the car drivable again. However, on short distance trips to run errands I noticed the battery was slowly draining. I was able to keep the car operable by hooking my car up to my C-Tek 7200 charger/maintainer at night. In the process of all of this I had the wiring harness (the one that goes from alternator -> starter -> junction block) replaced because there was some resistance as you traced its path from the alternator. I believe there is a TSB on that and I understand that the issue is so common that most dealers keep the part in stock. However the battery was still being drained after all of that. I was so confused since I had the alternator tested at Auto Zone and their diagnostic said it was fine. Indeed, electrical problems can be difficult to track down. It turns out my alternator was bad and I think it was subjecting the voltage regulator to high stress and caused it to fail. This is the chicken-and-the-egg problems so I don't know what caused what, but that's my best guess. As I would find out later, my alternator was working just fine at higher RPMs so highway driving was just fine. However, at idle RPM it wasn't working 100%. This explains why the short trips to run errands were problematic. I guess another moral of the story is don't always trust Auto Zone's alternator testing equipment. I'm sure it will tell you if your alternator is completely dead, but it certainly didn't catch mine which was half-working. So I ordered a new alternator from Vertex. Part is 996-603-012-02 for my 2002 C4S manual transmission. Cost was $375 total shipped (after $200 deposit to return old core). Replacing the alternator is one of the easier things to do on this vehicle as long as you follow Loren's DIY and uncsrew the bolt just slightly and tap the bolt head with a deadblow hammer to loosen the back bushing on the alternator from the engine flange.
  42. 1 point
  43. 1 point
    Here's a picture of the culprit. This was the original voltage regulator taken from my alternator and replaced with the part I mentioned above (that also works in various other cars like VW, Mercedes, etc). I can't say what caused what, but it turns out that my wiring harness that runs from the alternator to the starter to a junction block was also bad and was causing resistance when it heated up (I believe there's a TSB related to this). Thanks to JFP in PA who was a huge help tracking this down and told me that these two parts can sometimes go out together. I saw Logray and some others had this problem too in the past (see link below) so that was helpful too. It's been 100+ degrees F here for the last few weeks so it's not surprising that if it was going to happen, it would happen now. http://www.renntech.... guage harness Also, FYI, in response to my own question above: The "Battery / Generator" warning message and accompanying battery light on the console goes on when the computer detects that the voltage is too low. It's not something that is "tripped" and it will go off once the battery is recharged and the alternator issues are fixed, therefore keeping the battery charged. This can also happen if you leave your light on or door open in the car too long and it drains the battery. Just take it for a spirited drive to let the alternator charge the battery or hook the battery up to a charger if it gets too low to crank the starter. Thank you! :renntech:
  44. 1 point
    Helen: The "temperamental" nature of the problem that you describe points to either bad/degraded connections at a number of possible points, or a hairline crack at the parallel strips microswitch inside of the convertible top latch assembly or a deformed plunger-type microswitch, also inside that latch assembly. You must first verify that the parking brake light on the dashboard is actually lit up when you pull up on the parking brake. Then double check that your fuses at B6 (supplies power to the convertible top double relay) and at D3 (supplies power to the convertible top motor) are intact AND that there is no corrosion at their respective spades on at the female receptacles on the fuse panel into which they are pressed. You can clean up any corrosion in those areas with a small piece of fine emery cloth. Next, double check for and clean up any corrosion on all of the male spades of the convertible top double relay, and the same for the female receptacles in the relay tray that accept the double relay spades. You can also tap the double relay on the ground a couple of times sharply, as that sometimes "revives" a sticking relay. If you have done all of the above and still get no reaction at all, you can then move to the convertible top latch assembly and its two microswitches. When you unlatch the top, the latch releases the plunger type microswitch inside the latch assembly and that causes it to ground. When it is grounded, a signal is sent to drop the windows about 4 inches. Poke your finger or a pencil eraser into that depression in the latch assembly and see if you get any reaction from the windows. If you don't, you will have to open up the latch assembly to access the two microswitches. Try the above steps first and report back. If there is no improvement, we can proceed with instructions on how to remove the latch assembly, etc... Regards, Maurice.
  45. 1 point
    You need to connect the LINE outputs from your new head unit to the amplifier in the trunk - not the speaker cables, using the adapter cable like the orange one in my picture above. Pin Number Wire Color Function 5 Blue/White Amplifier Remote 6 Blue Antenna Remote - to "Exhibit A" pin A5 7 Red Accessory 12 Volts - to "Exhibit A" pin A7 8 Black Ground - to "Exhibit A" pin A8 13 Sky Blue Telephone Mute - to "Exhibit A" pin A3 14 Orange/White Illumination ( the wire isnt there ) - to "Exhibit A" pin A6 15 Not Used Not Used 16 Yellow Constant 12 Volts - to "Exhibit A" pin A4 As I said, you will need to connect the blue/white wire on the orange adapter to a switched feed. Most people hook it up to A5 with the antenna switched power, but you may be able to connect it to pin 5 of your new head unit.
  46. 1 point
    P0171 Oxygen Sensing Adaptation, Idle Range, Bank 1 – Above Limit P0174 Oxygen Sensing Adaptation, Idle Range, Bank 2 – Above Limit Possible fault causes: - Incorrect signal from MAF sensor - Intake air system leaking - Fuel pressure too low - Volume supply of fuel pump too low - Fuel injectors fouled - PCV valve leaks - Cap of oil filler neck not closed correctly or seal is damaged Looks like you have a leak...
  47. 1 point
    Hello all ~ Eric's instructions are accurate, however I R&R 'd the nozzles without headlight removal. Used a small tool similar to an allen wrench with a 90 degree bend at the end to lift the nozzles. Hold on tight as Eric mentioned; there is indeed a strong spring retraction force. I clamped the nozzle off with a pair of plastic fuse-puller pliars to assist in removing the OEM chrome version. Once I figured out to lift the nozzle without complete bumper cover removal as directed by the dealer, the whole job took about 15 minutes... Best, Serrotab
  48. 1 point
    I am in Morgan Hill (a little South of San Jose) and I can turn it on for you. Or... if you are not in a hurry I will be in Roseville June 16. Drop me a PM if you are interested in either.
  49. 1 point
    Possible cause of fault: • Pin 86 S is not detected when terminal 15 is switched on • Fuse E1 faulty • Short circuit to ground/open circuit in wiring between the alarm system control module and the ignition lock • Ignition lock faulty
  50. 1 point
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