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Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 04/24/2019 in all areas

  1. 1 point
    Removing the real seal will lubricate the factory bearing without any junk additives.
  2. 1 point
    This is exactly were everyone that thinks they can do better themselves goes wrong. The LN ceramic hybrid bearings cannot be "sourced from hundreds of places for a variety of prices". The LN bearing is the final result of a lot of R&D, trying out various bearing materials until they fail, to identify the best selection of components for the final bearing. And as that design is produced exclusively for them, you are going to have a very difficult time replicating their results Good luck...…………..
  3. 1 point
    In total desperation, you may have to pry the alternator out. Rotate it as far as possible clockwise, remove the long bolt and pulley, and try to jam a thick screwdriver or small pry bar underneath the alternator rear mount arm. You might have to be creative with a block or piece of wood to get the leverage right. Be very careful of the oil filler tube. It can crack easily.
  4. 1 point
    Yes, but that part is from MY2002 and newer cars so the rear lid design changed. I do not know the proper dimensions for that newer logo on and older model.
  5. 1 point
  6. 1 point
    Are you sure you have not already moved it enough for the alternator right side to come up? Pull right side bolt all the way out and see if you can lift the right side up and out. It might be a little bit of a struggle but if it moves up you can get it out. I remember I had to go back and forth a few times, bolt in and whack, bolt out and try to lift, bolt back in and whack even harder, bolt out and test lift again.
  7. 1 point
    The bushing only needs to move enough that you can rotate the alternator up and out. It does not have to be pushed all the way into the rear mount arm. It really only has to move enough that you can lift up the right side of the alternator easily. Once you have the alternator out you will see how it all works. With the left bolt out, how easily can you rotate the alternator up? Or can you not rotate it at all?
  8. 1 point
    In many states these upgrades are illegal due to excessive glare as the headlight's do not have the correct projectors to create the proper beam cut off. Absolute ticket bait as well.
  9. 1 point
  10. 1 point
    Possibly the rear window defroster connector for the hard top?
  11. 1 point
    What assurance do you have that the car was not damaged and wrapped to hide a bad repair job? A wrap is not as permanent as factory paint. You will have to deal with it’s deterioration at some point. If the paint flakes off then it’s not factory. IMO the wrap would have to come off and paint inspected as a pre-condition. Otherwise run as fast as you can. Johan
  12. 1 point
    As noted above, P1484 is an indication of high pressure in the EVAP system, an indication that the EVAP system is not working correctly; it does not necessarily mean you should change out a $300+ module until you have determined that it is actually bad. The EVAP system is supposed to get rid of excess fuel vapor into the intake system to burn it off, the leak detection module periodically tests the EVAP system to make sure it is not leaking. The code indicates that the EVAP system pressure is too high, which may be the module, but often is not. The normal way of testing the module is with a smoke test unit to make sure it is closed when it is supposed to be. The attached is the function diagram for the same module on a BMW; as they all work the same way, this should help you understand how this unit functions: How the leak detection module functions
  13. 1 point
  14. 1 point
    Undo fastening screws 1. To reduce the unclipping forces and thereby the risk of damage during removal, the removal steps must be carried out at the accessible connection points using a suitable tool. Unclip trim panel for spring strut mount 2 first upwards Arrows A and then pull out slightly in direction of Arrow B. Check fastening nuts 1 and clamps 2, 3, and replace if necessary.
  15. 1 point
  16. 1 point
    Yes, I agree...I will buy one from the dealer next and see if there is any noticeable difference.
  17. 1 point
    I would say the top unit is a knock off. We have had absolutely no luck with aftermarket AOS units, some even failing right out of the box. Considering how annoying they can be to swap out, it ain’t worth the price differential.
  18. 1 point
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  20. 1 point
    I received a call from Jake and he said they started assembly work on the motor this week. Right on schedule with the dates he gave me back in August. Pictures coming soon.
  21. 1 point
  22. 1 point
    Yes, we are talking about the front diff, as it sits under the fuel tank.. How hard is obviously related to how well you are equipped and your mechanical expertise.
  23. 1 point
  24. 1 point
    Btw, you can find detailed instructions from LN here.
  25. 1 point
    Again, I said: "No, as long as you follow the rest of LN Engineering's instructions to the letter. "; and stated that "my personal preference was to remove them all". Your choice is yours.
  26. 1 point
    LN wrote up the 3 and 5 chain instructions, available online, which should be followed. My personal preference on three chains is to pull all the tensioners.
  27. 1 point
    I just installed a Pioneer AVH-2440NEX, Metra 99-9604b dash kit and Scosche LPPE15 wiring interface from Crutchfield in my 2005 Cayenne. Absolutely terrific sound. Existing amplifier and subwoofer work great. I highly recommend using their $25 ReadyHarness Service tp pre-wire everything. Like others in this forum, I needed to trim the dash plate to get a nice flush mount. The USB AUX adapter from Amazon fits perfectly in an unused dash hole. Total installation was was less than $700. $350 for the radio and about the same for the harnesses. The Axxess ASWC-1 steering wheel control adapter is not needed. A 3.5m plug on the adapter fits in the back of the radio and gives steering wheel volume and track control.
  28. 1 point
    Hi yes, Well after 18months and a lot of miles I can share a few thoughts. Firstly. I've done a lot of offroading in the car. As a result I've picked up or had cuts / splits on 2 of the tyres. This caused me to replace all 4 tyres recently as I was worried about impact during long trips. So I put 4 more BFGs KO2s back one. Immediately after that I 've 1 tyre delaminate following 90mins at 160kph. Not impressed. Tyre has been replaced under warranty, but not sure yet whether the tyre or batch is an issue. Whilst I've never had a BFG actually puncture, I have to say, they are expensive, and they are heavy. Also the on road performance is pretty average, clearly its an AT tyre so you should be prepared. Stopping distances are way longer than street tyres. I"m about to do a 2000km trip, including 220km desert crossing, so lots off road, which will bed the new tyres in one way or the other. But I've lost a bit of faith with BFGs. I'm now 50:50 on whether they are worth the money and the weight penalty. That said, there has been pretty much zero rubbing, and I've even managed to drive the car with the air suspension collapsed. Not far, but it was OK. This was one of the criteria for me, due to the sometimes remote locations we go to. Hope that helps and is a balanced view.
  29. 1 point
    As I noted on another forum, your expectations for power gains are probably a bit of a pipe dream. Normally aspirated Porsche engines have historically showed only very small gains in either torque or HP from the type of modifications you are considering when validated in dyno testing, and even these small gains only occurred at the very high end of the RPM curves. While the marketers of these products typically make substantial improvement gains, before and after dyno runs have not born out their claims. To get the 40-50 HP you are seeking is going to require significant internal engine modifications, which is not going to come cheaply.
  30. 1 point
    After a few emails and a couple of phone conversations, I have decided to send my car to Flat 6 Innovations. Jake believes it is a broken chain (he has seen these symptoms many times) and I tend to agree. Hopefully I don't have any piston damage and I will get the car back in a few weeks. But if there is piston damage I would get an entire engine reconstruction which takes 8 to 10 months... Although a Raby rebuild would be nice.
  31. 1 point
    When somebody takes good care of their car, there is little that can be said in a situation such as that other than commiserations. I wish you good luck.
  32. 1 point
    Well... I jacked-up the car to inspect and as I was jacking I saw two drops of oil. Thinking to myself maybe the bracket holding the solenoid broke (I read that somewhere on one of the forums), something simple. But when I got under the vehicle there was quite a bit of oil on the front of the cam cover (nearest the passenger compartment). Closer inspection I discovered the cam cover is cracked near the top probably a couple inches long. I have a major issue (possibly broken cam). Now I need to decide how to replace the motor... Rebuild, salvage, new, Jake Raby. Wish me luck. My wife asked, "how could this happen? You take car of your cars and don't abuse them." My reply... "things break".
  33. 1 point
    EDIT: Additional info added at bottom of tutorial, refers to recently found info, clarifying how many different fluids are needed for the 970 generation of Panamera PDK (at end of tutorial). Attached is a DIY for changing fluid on Panamera PDK transmission. Got this from a fellow forum member who happened to do the change. This should help many interested in doing maintenance on Panamera without paying thousands for it. Speaking to shop/dealer, after 60k, filter/pan replacement not absolutely necessary (cost of the kit is about $350). So for 60k, drain and refill fluid is fine. At 120k, you would do same fluid change, but this time replace the pan/filter as well. Read the entire DIY before you start to get a good idea of requirements and estimate time involvement for you to complete. Do not forget to replace the drain plug with its built in seal. Last thing you need is have a $15 part cause small leaking, and then have to put car up, open up drain plug, lose a bunch of expensive oil, just to put new drain plug in. So dont cut on this one part. You can get the Pentosine FFL3 PDK fluid directly from Porsche, or from Pentosine resellers. Porsche will charge you triple the price for identical fluid. You choose. Everything you need is mentioned in the DIY. Since Durametric does not have capability to monitor PDK temperature yet, you can use an IR thermometer, when you heat up the PDK to 40 celsius, after you put in 6-8 quarts or so, and when doing final level check. Good luck. 970 generation Panamera PDK transmission info: ZF is manufacturer of PDK transmission for Porsche They make 2 PDK transmissions One for mid & rear engine applications (911, boxter, etc) Another one specifically made for the Panamera Panamera PDK servicing requires two (2) fluids only (as compared to 3 fluids in other PDK car models at Porsche FFL3 fluid - Gearbox & clutches - need about 9 quarts Shell TF0951 - Front final drive - need about 0.4 quarts Here is the info dug up from ZF on this topic: "In fact, two separate DCT ranges or 'platforms' have been developed by ZF, both fitted with wet clutches, for use in Porsche's various longitudinal applications. The first is for use in the mid- and rear-engine sports cars (the 911, the Cayman and the Boxster), while a completely different platform has been developed for use in the larger Panamera. For each platform, two different torque options are available, with the 500N.m versions using an 'ND2015' clutch pack, and the 780N.m versions using an 'ND2216' clutch pack, both supplied by ZF Sachs....... In terms of the oil circuit itself, two completely different approaches have been employed for the two platforms. Non Panamera models: The 7DT45 and 7DT70 have two oil circuits, and hence two different oils; the first is Pentosin FFL-3 for the clutch and hydraulics, and the second is ExxonMobil Mobilube PTX 75W-90 for the gear-set and bevel gear. The oil levels have been kept as low as possible, to reduce churning losses for those moving parts that are immersed in oil. Panamera: Conversely, the 7DT75 has a single oil circuit and a dry sump (to minimize churning losses), with an 'active lubrication system' to feed oil to each gear-set and clutch. This version uses only the Pentosin FFL-3 lubricant, which was developed exclusively for the ZF DCTs. One of the main reasons for using a single oil circuit is that clutch cooling is required at both ends of the transmission, for the main dual-clutch module and for the hang-on clutch used in the four-wheel-drive variant. This would have presented significant sealing complications had multiple circuits been chosen." Bottom line: What this means is that the Panamera PDK uses transmission design which uses one fluid compartment for the gearbox and the clutches, and another separate compartment for the final drive. Two fluids total.
  34. 1 point
    This DIY tutorial covers how to remove the intake manifold on the 3.6L V6 Cayenne. Removing the intake manifold gives you access to several parts of the engine that you may need to service. Disclaimer: Perform at your own risk. This is for reference only, I am not responsible for any damage/injuries that may occur from this procedure. Please do not attempt if you are not comfortable with doing work on your car or working around the fuel system. Work in a well ventilated area as you will be releasing a small amount of gas and fumes. Difficulty: 5/10 Estimated Time: ~2 hours If you’re getting a Durametric error code P0674, you likely have a bad PCV valve that needs to be replaced. An easy way to test a bad PCV valve is to unscrew the oil fill cap on the engine while it is idling. If you feel suction on the cap and/or the idle fluctuates once the cap is removed then your PCV valve is bad. The PCV valve is built into the valve cover so your options are to buy a whole new valve cover assembly (95510513500- ~$347) or buy just the PCV membrane (aftermarket $20-25) and replace it in your existing valve cover. To get access to the valve cover, you will need to follow this DIY article to remove the intake manifold first. Other reasons to remove the intake manifold are to service your fuel injectors or to make it much easier to replace the thermostat. The thermostat can be changed without removing the intake manifold (I did it twice), however you basically need to be a contortionist to reach the bolts to remove housing and you will scrape some knuckles along the way. Tools Needed: -Flathead screwdriver -Assortment of torx bits (T20, T25, T30, 6” long T30) -Pliers -Torque Wrench -3/8” ratchet set with various extensions and a universal joint -1 1/16” Deep socket -10mm Triple Square Spline Bit -Crescent Wrench -9/16” Open End Wrench -Dental pick Parts Needed: -Brake Booster Vacuum Hose- 95535557941 (your existing hose is probably brittle and will likely crack from removing it, I recommend getting a new one) -Lower Fuel Injector Seal Kit (3X) - 95511091000 (existing seals may be brittle and once you have removed the intake manifold, they may not seal properly upon reinstallation, I recommend getting new ones, need 3 sets) Procedure: First start by removing the plastic covers surrounding the engine. Using a flathead screwdriver, remove the quarter turn plastic trim fasteners. Rotate them in either direction by 90 degrees and pop them out. Be ready to catch them as sometimes they like to jump out. Next you will need to remove the 2 torx screws on either side of the engine cover with a T25 bit and the screw under the windshield washer reservoir cap with a T20 bit. Remove the oil fill cap and front engine cover by pulling straight up. They are held on by friction rings around a stud so pulling straight up will release it. Now that you have the covers removed, it’s time to remove the intake filter box and intake piping. Using your T25 torx bit, rotate the 2 screws until the dot on the screwhead lines up with the lower indication on the filter cover. Now gently use your pliers to pull them straight out. With your flathead screwdriver, pop up the two clips to release the filter housing. Pivot the filter house towards the passenger side of the car and remove it. Remove the engine air filter as well. Next, remove the wiring harness from the MAF sensor located in the middle of the intake piping. Loosen the clamp around the intake piping on the throttle body and gently work the intake piping back and forth until it releases from the throttle body. Remove the top bolt on the engine lift bracket and loosen the lower bolt with your M10 triple square bit. Then pivot the bracket towards the front of the car. Remove the bolt next to the throttle body with your M10 triple square bit. Then unplug the wire harness from the throttle body. Remove the top bolt from the bracket on the passenger side of the engine with your M10 triple square bit. Remove the vacuum lines from the intake manifold on the passenger side of the engine. One hose requires pliers to open the hose clamp, the other can be removed by hand if you squeeze the lock ring around the hose to release it. Next, from the passenger side, reach your hand around to the back side of the engine. There is a vacuum line that goes from the bottom surface of the intake manifold to the brake booster. You will need to pull the vacuum line fitting straight down to pop it out of the intake manifold. I don't have a good picture of it so here is a diagram of it. Pull down on the elbow fitting, not the hose. Also on the back side of the engine just behind the vacuum line you removed there is a bolt that needs to be removed using your M10 triple square bit. You are working blindly so locate the bolt first by feel and guide your bit to the bolt. Remove the 3 screws holding the actuator with a T25 torx bit. Slowly pull it straight out towards the front of the car. There is an actuator arm that attaches to a shaft on the passenger side of the part. Once you have enough clearance to reach your finger in there, you need to slide the arm off the shaft as you pull the entire actuator off. Then disconnect the vacuum hose from the actuator. Now pull the coolant hoses out of their holder in the intake manifold and push it towards the driver side of the car. There is a T25 torx screw that attaches this water hose bracket near the back of the intake manifold. The screw is facing up, so you need to use your T25 torx bit and get creative with removing that screw. I used a crescent wrench to turn the torx bit while holding the torx bit in place with my other hand. With the water hose bracket free, slide the water hose bracket towards the front of the car to release it from the intake manifold. This bracket has a keyhole slot that will release once it's slid forward. Remove the oil dipstick tube bracket with a T25 torx bit. Just push it out of the way once you remove the screw. With your long T30 torx bit, remove the bolt on the intake manifold that was under the actuator. Next, there are 3 blind holes on the driver side of the intake manifold. You need to use your long T30 torx bit to loosen the screws inside those holes. Those 3 screws are captive screws so they will not come out. There are 3 bolts below the intake runners. They need to be removed with your M10 triple square bit. This is where your universal joint will come in handy. The bolt near the rear of the engine required me to use my u-joint with various entensions to acess. At this point, you will hear gas leaking out. Since you have released the pressure from the lower fuel rail to the lower fuel injectors, the pressurized gas in the rail will leak out. Make sure you are working in a well ventilated area. From the driver side of the car, reach behind the engine to remove the wire harness from the fuel pressure sensor. Using your 1 1/16” deep socket, unscrew and remove the fuel pressure sensor. Using your 9/16” open wrench, unscrew the nut that connects the metal fuel line running from the lower fuel rail. The slimmer your wrench the better. My crescent wrench did not fit here. Now that the intake manifold is completely unbolted, you can start to wiggle it free. You will need to lift the manifold up from the passenger side and pivot it up towards the driver side. You will need to wiggle the lower fuel rail loose to release the metal fuel line you just unscrewed the nut from. It is a flare fitting that pushes into the upper fuel rail assembly. Be gentle here as you don’t want to bend the fuel rail. Once the metal fuel line is free from the upper assembly, you can remove the intake manifold as described above by lifting up from the passenger side first to pivot it off. At this point, you have access to the fuel injectors if you need to service them, the thermostat housing and the valve cover. Unbolting the valve cover is straight forward from here if you need to replace the PCV valve, etc. The fuel injector seal kit comes with a rubber o-ring, Teflon o-ring, Teflon sleeve and metal clip. At the bare minimum you should replace the rubber o-ring and Teflon o-ring. Use a dental pick to remove the old o-rings. These 2 parts are the wear surface when you remove/reinstall the intake manifold and are prone to fail if you re-use them. Trust me, I learned the hard way. To install the intake manifold, reverse the steps above. Take care in sliding the lower fuel rail back onto the lower fuel injectors and lining up the metal fuel line back into the flare fitting. I found it was easier to pull the lower fuel line out of the manifold to line the flare fitting up first, then pushing it into place in the intake manifold. You want to apply even pressure on the surface as you tighten all 7 of the bolts down on the driver side. Torque the 3 triple square bolts evenly to 6 ft lbs, torque angle 90 degrees, then a final torque of 22 ft lbs. The bolts holding the engine lift bracket are 17 ft lbs, the other triple square bolts holding the manifold on the head are 15 ft lbs. Once you get it all back together, turn the key to the ON then START position without your foot on the brake. This will run the fuel pumps to build pressure back up in the fuel rail. I removed the key and repeated 2-3 times to get the fuel pressure up. The first time you restart, it may take a couple seconds to fire up due to the fuel pressure needing to build back up. If you replaced your PCV valve, it may idle rough as the ECU needs to remap since it adapted to a leaking PCV valve over time. If you did not replace the fuel injector seals and smell gas/hear it leaking after shutting off the engine, then your seals failed and you need to repeat the procedure and replace those seals.
  35. 1 point
    Here is a documented guide to overhauling the Boxster's speaker systems for improved sound. I did this for under $600, and the difference is astonishing. Covers front,rear, and door speaker systems. Well illustrated, and contains a detailed section dealing with updating the door speakers from 5 1/4" to to 6 1/2" drivers while maintaining a completely stock appearence. Hope this helps many a Boxster owner. First986NJ UPDATE 4/23/08: Wow, 2600 downloads - cool! Hi Guys, a couple of updates: 1) The article referrs MB Quart drivers being used. While these are fine drivers and many people like them, I found them a bit too bright for my tastes. My car now has Polk Audio db series drivers throughout (db651's in the doors and db401's in the dash) and I am even happier with the sound. I also eventually replaced the (4) 3 1/2" drivers in the PNP rear shelf kit with Polk Audio db351's and they improved the sound back there noticably. Infinity Kappa's were considered, and I listened to them, but I found the Polks slightly tighter sounding and so I went that way. The two were VERY close in both price and quality. 2) Something new on the door speakers......... Kicker has recently come out with a 6.5" sub that is perfect for the Boxster doors! It is a 6.5" CompVT Shallow Series Subwoofer, Frequency response: 25-350 Hz ,Sensitivity: 85 dB ,Impedance 4 ohms ,Peak Power Handling 300 watts ,RMS Power Handling 150 watts. Top Mount Depth is 2-13/16" and Cutout Diameter 5-9/16". Available at Crutchfield and Woofersetc.com. I have not yet put a set in my doors, but fully intend to very soon. Andy Guide_to_Modifying_the_Boxster_Sound_System.pdf
  36. 1 point
    Procedure to initialize steering column 1. Switch on ignition 2. Use seat adjustment to tilt backrest completely forward ( as far as the stop) 3. Keep switch pressed in this position ( approx. 5 seconds ) until you hear a signal tone on the instrument cluster. The control unit is initialized.
  37. 1 point
    997 Turbo Bumper removal, Radiator cleaning, and Mesh Grill Install: Removed front bumper assembly, cleaned radiators, and fabricated and installed new aluminum mesh grills to block some of the trash. Took photos, and documented the process I used and created a simple do-it-yourself website. I am no expert, and I am sure there are many ways of doing this..So if it helps, Great! If you know a better way...go for it. TheRocksFront MeshGrillsDIY.pdf
  38. 1 point
    Easiest way to remove the fuel door without breaking or scratching anything is to use a mini pair of longnose needle nose pliers. "Not a Screwdriver". I was able to remove the fuel door hinge in about 30 seconds. use the pliers to pinch the locking lugs. 1.Stick the pliers into the upper section A and pinch the lugs while pulling up slightly. You will hear & feel the upper section of the hinge pull up slightly (about 1/8" inch)
  39. 1 point
    How about item 6 in this image http://www.autoatlanta.com/porsche-parts/hardparts.php?dir=9PA-03-06&section=817-45
  40. 1 point
  41. 1 point
    Helen: The "temperamental" nature of the problem that you describe points to either bad/degraded connections at a number of possible points, or a hairline crack at the parallel strips microswitch inside of the convertible top latch assembly or a deformed plunger-type microswitch, also inside that latch assembly. You must first verify that the parking brake light on the dashboard is actually lit up when you pull up on the parking brake. Then double check that your fuses at B6 (supplies power to the convertible top double relay) and at D3 (supplies power to the convertible top motor) are intact AND that there is no corrosion at their respective spades on at the female receptacles on the fuse panel into which they are pressed. You can clean up any corrosion in those areas with a small piece of fine emery cloth. Next, double check for and clean up any corrosion on all of the male spades of the convertible top double relay, and the same for the female receptacles in the relay tray that accept the double relay spades. You can also tap the double relay on the ground a couple of times sharply, as that sometimes "revives" a sticking relay. If you have done all of the above and still get no reaction at all, you can then move to the convertible top latch assembly and its two microswitches. When you unlatch the top, the latch releases the plunger type microswitch inside the latch assembly and that causes it to ground. When it is grounded, a signal is sent to drop the windows about 4 inches. Poke your finger or a pencil eraser into that depression in the latch assembly and see if you get any reaction from the windows. If you don't, you will have to open up the latch assembly to access the two microswitches. Try the above steps first and report back. If there is no improvement, we can proceed with instructions on how to remove the latch assembly, etc... Regards, Maurice.
  42. 1 point
    I found out that it was the door latch and not the micro-switch that needs to be replaced. The door latch will wear out from use. Here is the link to replacing a 997 microswitch and the next link continues on to the door latch. http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?/tutorials/article/7-door-micro-switch/ http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?/topic/32134-door-latch/ Paul
  43. 1 point
    You need to connect the LINE outputs from your new head unit to the amplifier in the trunk - not the speaker cables, using the adapter cable like the orange one in my picture above. Pin Number Wire Color Function 5 Blue/White Amplifier Remote 6 Blue Antenna Remote - to "Exhibit A" pin A5 7 Red Accessory 12 Volts - to "Exhibit A" pin A7 8 Black Ground - to "Exhibit A" pin A8 13 Sky Blue Telephone Mute - to "Exhibit A" pin A3 14 Orange/White Illumination ( the wire isnt there ) - to "Exhibit A" pin A6 15 Not Used Not Used 16 Yellow Constant 12 Volts - to "Exhibit A" pin A4 As I said, you will need to connect the blue/white wire on the orange adapter to a switched feed. Most people hook it up to A5 with the antenna switched power, but you may be able to connect it to pin 5 of your new head unit.
  44. 1 point
  45. 1 point
  46. 1 point
    Sorry for the late reply guys. I snapped some pictures last weekend while fishing. In the second picture you can see the front wheel arch, where I removed the mud flap and bent the plastic from the wheel arch over where the mud flap was fastened. This is basically plastic to plastic with screws, but it holds pretty well. It doesn't look pretty up close, but you never notice it. I had the BF Goodrich 265/65R18 tires microcut (as can be seen on the close up image) to be able to use them in the snow. Road noise has not increased noticeably. The car handles a bit differently, much better on gravel and only slightly worse on asphalt. I recommend the change to those that want to use the Cayenne off-road or on rough roads. Thor
  47. 1 point
    Many thanks to all that have guided me on my quest to understand and then accomplish tasks that before this forum and it's members I would not have even contemplated. And it's FUN plus my wife likes it because I'm saving some money doing routine service myself. That being said I am now going to try my first DIY Post on a little fun project I did in approx 2 hours and boy did it turn out well. I got the idea when I was admiring a fellow co-workers Carrera with the shiny enameled center wheel covers. Upon doing some research I discovered they are expensive and often times stolen. We have a family owned 1998 986 that is STOCK BASIC and it needed a bit of color as it's the classic Arctic Silver Met with a black top and interior. The only other color on the car is the hood crest. So being an avid modeler in my youth and also today went into my hobby man cave and discovered that I had on hand all the necessary items needed to spruce up my basic black and silver wheel centers. Here are the steps and the items you'll need to complete this easy fixer upper. 1. Find a local hobby store or online and buy the following: Tamiya Acrylic paint in the following colors, Semi Gloss Black, Red, Gold and you'll also need some thinner I just use the Tamiya thinner. YOU MUST USE ACRYLIC as it holds it's color and after being shot with 3 coats of clear will last a long time! 1 Can of Dupli-Color High Performance Wheel CLEAR Pep-Boys 1 Set of hobby brushes small tipped (tight spaces on the wheel centers) 2. Approx. 2 hours of your time and bit of a steady hand but dont worry with a paper towel, thinner and a toothpick you can correct your errors if you cant stay inside the lines. :) Cost under $25.00 3. CLEAN CLEAN CLEAN the wheel centers a good dish soap or degreaser is best DRY COMPLETELY. 4. Start with the hard color 1st GOLD dont be put off it takes 2 coats and gold hobby paint is the worst color to apply just be patient after 1 coat dries apply the second and you'll see what I mean. Next do the RED. Then finally the BLACK. Set aside to dry for about 1/2 hour (have a Stella) then get out your clear coat and LIGHTLY apply 1 then 2 then 3 coats make sure you allow about 20 min for the clear to dry between coats. The wheel centers have recessed portions for each color so it's easy to paint dip the color into the spot where it belongs. TAA DAA your done and here are the results along with the products I used. Guess what my fellow co-worker thinks they look great! Take all look at the pics and you'll see the products and the results. Have fun!
  48. 1 point
  49. 1 point
    Here are some things to go over with your service advisor... 1. Ask them to: Please check and fix any other oil leaks (intemediate shaft, cam covers, from pulley seal) at the same time. Also, check and replace the clutch if needed. 2. Ask them if they will be checking the installation position of the crankshaft with special tool 9699/1. 3. Make sure you get documentation of the part numbers used and approriate dates for potential future warranty claims. 4. Ask them to pray for your car... ;)
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