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Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation on 08/22/2019 in all areas

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  2. 1 point
    Product ID : 1056 327 173 01 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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    I have had my '84 Carrerra for six years. It is a second owner car that I cherish. In January 09, we moved from SoCal to Omaha, NE. When the car was transported out here, I began having shifting/grinding problems with the 915 box. I checked several local "Porsche" shops before finding FLATSIX in Bloominton MN. Aaron Hatz is the owner/technician. I, of course, assumed the worst and agreed to have him rebuild the transmission. He drove down to Omaha with his enclosed trailer and took the car back to MN. A few days later, he called me and said he had found the problem. Turns out that several of the transmission mount bolts had fallen out. He replaced them and told me the transmission shifted fine but the clutch was aged. We went ahead with a Sachs Power Clutch Kit and the car works like a dream. I am a longtime car enthusiast and have dealt with thousands of shops and situations. I know when I am getting BS'd and because I'm now disabled, many operators try to talk over me, or past me. Aaron also did leakdown tests; compression tests than adjusted the valves and assured me that the heads were in good shape. Aaron's honesty and love for Porsches shined brighter than any experience I have ever had. I recommend Aaron to everyone. He is honest, knowledgeable and reasonable, not attributes you always find as a Porsche owner.
  5. 1 point
    Have recently completed adjustments on clutch cable as well as on the foot pedal. Gears had improved, but suddenly yesterday, I had a great deal of difficulty in lining up 1st and 2nd gear. It was as though they weren't there. No problem finding 3rd / 4th and 5th and Reverse. Initially I thought that the shift coupling between the rear seats had slipped, but it was still tight. I followed the instructions on how to Improve Shifting off the Pelican Site (same as in my Bentley Manual), by loosening the clamp, rotating the coupler counter-clockwise looking to the rear of the car, and the shifter left in line with 1st & 2nd gear, so it is "pre-loaded?" I then tightened the clamp once again, but then 5th and Reverse wouldn't engage. After several attempts I've found a balance, but reverse and 5th remain difficult if I don't go through several other gears first. Could this be the bushings that are worn out also causing this, or perhaps I'm not adjusting it properly? Any ideas would be appreciated. Have also order a short-shifter and new bushing set just in case from Pelican.
  6. 1 point
    Ok guys, you've been waiting for this, and as promised, here is my brief, but descriptive walkthrough. this is what you will need as the following: Porsche Panel wedge tool Screw Driver w/ T-20 bit and Flat head bit Turbo Instrument Cluster strong fingers! Ok with that cleared away, here is the first step. Remove the black plastic gauge cover above the gauges. Use the wedge tool or , in this case I used my fingers! (don't use the fingers, i highly recomend not to , it hurts hahahah). Remember , you will need to apply gentle but enough pressure to detach the tabs off from the top cover of the dash that is over the cluster As you can see, the reason why i say "gentle" is because you have the tabs, take them off or apply too much pressure, and those bad boys can break, if anyone had experience with plastic and heat, they can easily become brittle. Just make sure you use precaution. Next, there are 5 screws to detach the dash cluster cover. 4 screws are attached to the top of the gauge cluster, while one (in back) inside the housing is there to hold the cover in place on the main dash. Remember, these are t-20 screws. two are parallel on each side , symmetrical to each other The rear screw, is located in the center back of the gauge cluster cover. as illustrated here. Once all screws are removed, just like the black pastic gauge cover, remove the upper gauge cover off gentley. They are tabbed in place, so apply the righ pressure. Note: when you remove the cover, be sure you have the washer for the 5th screw. This holds and aligns the cover of the cluster in place. as shown here Once the top is off, you will need to gain access to the bottom half. this is where most of the work will be done. here are the major things you will need to do - Remove trip pieces - unscrew support holding ignition/key - remove driver left AC vent Lets begin with taking off the side cover where the fuse housing is and the AC vent. Use the wedge tool to open the side panel and to take the ac unit out. the AC unit pops out as an entire pice, though the trim may seperate, this is normal, but becareful , damaging the trim will result in a loose fit. The reason for this to come out is there is a screw that holds the lower portion in place, which later will be necessary to access the bottom part of the instrument cluster Next take off the trim. There are three screws, t-20's , that are behing them. use the wedge tool again, gentley take the trim off. Again use precaution when taking them out. the outer ignition/key cover is part of the trim. so make extra effort to be careful Once the trim is removed, and the screws , make sure you remove the support ring , which holds the ignition key in place by way of screwing around the threads of the ignition. there is a special tool for this, but i used a flat head screwdriver to pussh along some tabs gentley till it was unscrewed. Repeat for the trim on the right near the windshield wiper control arm on the steering will. there should be two screws to take off. Also note, the screw inside the AC vent on the left driver side, it should be on the upper corner. Next, once all screws have been removed, gentley remove the tabs off , again, use precaustion, these are tabs, and need to be taken off with extreme care avoiding damage to them, and causing not to fit properly Once the bottom is removed, go ahead and take out the remaining two bottom screws that hold/support of the cluster. Again,these are t-20 screws Once remove, it's self explanetory from there, there are a green and blue connector, with purple latches. unlatch both, and remove the old cluster. Put in the turbo cluster, and presto, turn your car on, and test the cluster b4 putting it back together. your cluster should then boot up and you will see what awaits! Further notes - When you hook up your gauge cluster, you will hear a weird buzzing noise, that's ok, it's just the cluster responding to its connection. You will also notice that your milage should be at 0.0 for new clusters or whoever's previous milage was on it, if you bought it used. So be forwarned, My friend who knows vw/audi's said clusters like these have a tendancy to carry over their last cars info on milage over to whichever car they are being installed. So note to yourself, to write down your actual mileage. Once done, and pre programed, go ahead and put everything back together, and yours should look like this Alright now! I hope everyone is successful as I was, and hope all you skeptics out there can take it easy and rest knowing someone already done this for you! hahahah Enjoy! if you have any other questions or comments, just PM or reply! I'll be more than happy to help! I will also be posting a turbo bumper upgrade too for those who are interested later once i get my spare headlight washer parts in! til then good reading folks :D :P
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