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Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 04/27/2019 in Posts

  1. 1 point
    Porsche specific codes (codes other than emissions codes) require a more specialized tool. Durametric (requires laptop) - $287 Autel MaxiSys MS906BT - $1350 Porsche PIWIS Tester (lease) - $18,000 per year For the DIYer the Durametric is your best solution.
  2. 1 point
    The correct filter for an early 996 is the 986-307-403-00, which was also used in the Boxster.
  3. 1 point
    If it is not resetting after a turn then it is likely broken and needs replacement - sorry.
  4. 1 point
  5. 1 point
    Top shock mounts, front and rear they degrade over time too. Sorry should have explained better.
  6. 1 point
    Removing the real seal will lubricate the factory bearing without any junk additives.
  7. 1 point
    This is exactly were everyone that thinks they can do better themselves goes wrong. The LN ceramic hybrid bearings cannot be "sourced from hundreds of places for a variety of prices". The LN bearing is the final result of a lot of R&D, trying out various bearing materials until they fail, to identify the best selection of components for the final bearing. And as that design is produced exclusively for them, you are going to have a very difficult time replicating their results Good luck...…………..
  8. 1 point
    In total desperation, you may have to pry the alternator out. Rotate it as far as possible clockwise, remove the long bolt and pulley, and try to jam a thick screwdriver or small pry bar underneath the alternator rear mount arm. You might have to be creative with a block or piece of wood to get the leverage right. Be very careful of the oil filler tube. It can crack easily.
  9. 1 point
    Yes, but that part is from MY2002 and newer cars so the rear lid design changed. I do not know the proper dimensions for that newer logo on and older model.
  10. 1 point
  11. 1 point
    Are you sure you have not already moved it enough for the alternator right side to come up? Pull right side bolt all the way out and see if you can lift the right side up and out. It might be a little bit of a struggle but if it moves up you can get it out. I remember I had to go back and forth a few times, bolt in and whack, bolt out and try to lift, bolt back in and whack even harder, bolt out and test lift again.
  12. 1 point
    The bushing only needs to move enough that you can rotate the alternator up and out. It does not have to be pushed all the way into the rear mount arm. It really only has to move enough that you can lift up the right side of the alternator easily. Once you have the alternator out you will see how it all works. With the left bolt out, how easily can you rotate the alternator up? Or can you not rotate it at all?
  13. 1 point
    In many states these upgrades are illegal due to excessive glare as the headlight's do not have the correct projectors to create the proper beam cut off. Absolute ticket bait as well.
  14. 1 point
  15. 1 point
    Possibly the rear window defroster connector for the hard top?
  16. 1 point
    What assurance do you have that the car was not damaged and wrapped to hide a bad repair job? A wrap is not as permanent as factory paint. You will have to deal with it’s deterioration at some point. If the paint flakes off then it’s not factory. IMO the wrap would have to come off and paint inspected as a pre-condition. Otherwise run as fast as you can. Johan
  17. 1 point
    As noted above, P1484 is an indication of high pressure in the EVAP system, an indication that the EVAP system is not working correctly; it does not necessarily mean you should change out a $300+ module until you have determined that it is actually bad. The EVAP system is supposed to get rid of excess fuel vapor into the intake system to burn it off, the leak detection module periodically tests the EVAP system to make sure it is not leaking. The code indicates that the EVAP system pressure is too high, which may be the module, but often is not. The normal way of testing the module is with a smoke test unit to make sure it is closed when it is supposed to be. The attached is the function diagram for the same module on a BMW; as they all work the same way, this should help you understand how this unit functions: How the leak detection module functions
  18. 1 point
  19. 1 point
    Undo fastening screws 1. To reduce the unclipping forces and thereby the risk of damage during removal, the removal steps must be carried out at the accessible connection points using a suitable tool. Unclip trim panel for spring strut mount 2 first upwards Arrows A and then pull out slightly in direction of Arrow B. Check fastening nuts 1 and clamps 2, 3, and replace if necessary.
  20. 1 point
  21. 1 point
    Yes, I agree...I will buy one from the dealer next and see if there is any noticeable difference.
  22. 1 point
    I would say the top unit is a knock off. We have had absolutely no luck with aftermarket AOS units, some even failing right out of the box. Considering how annoying they can be to swap out, it ain’t worth the price differential.
  23. 1 point
  24. 1 point
    Btw, you can find detailed instructions from LN here.
  25. 1 point
    Again, I said: "No, as long as you follow the rest of LN Engineering's instructions to the letter. "; and stated that "my personal preference was to remove them all". Your choice is yours.
  26. 1 point
    LN wrote up the 3 and 5 chain instructions, available online, which should be followed. My personal preference on three chains is to pull all the tensioners.
  27. 1 point
    I just installed a Pioneer AVH-2440NEX, Metra 99-9604b dash kit and Scosche LPPE15 wiring interface from Crutchfield in my 2005 Cayenne. Absolutely terrific sound. Existing amplifier and subwoofer work great. I highly recommend using their $25 ReadyHarness Service tp pre-wire everything. Like others in this forum, I needed to trim the dash plate to get a nice flush mount. The USB AUX adapter from Amazon fits perfectly in an unused dash hole. Total installation was was less than $700. $350 for the radio and about the same for the harnesses. The Axxess ASWC-1 steering wheel control adapter is not needed. A 3.5m plug on the adapter fits in the back of the radio and gives steering wheel volume and track control.
  28. 1 point
    Hi yes, Well after 18months and a lot of miles I can share a few thoughts. Firstly. I've done a lot of offroading in the car. As a result I've picked up or had cuts / splits on 2 of the tyres. This caused me to replace all 4 tyres recently as I was worried about impact during long trips. So I put 4 more BFGs KO2s back one. Immediately after that I 've 1 tyre delaminate following 90mins at 160kph. Not impressed. Tyre has been replaced under warranty, but not sure yet whether the tyre or batch is an issue. Whilst I've never had a BFG actually puncture, I have to say, they are expensive, and they are heavy. Also the on road performance is pretty average, clearly its an AT tyre so you should be prepared. Stopping distances are way longer than street tyres. I"m about to do a 2000km trip, including 220km desert crossing, so lots off road, which will bed the new tyres in one way or the other. But I've lost a bit of faith with BFGs. I'm now 50:50 on whether they are worth the money and the weight penalty. That said, there has been pretty much zero rubbing, and I've even managed to drive the car with the air suspension collapsed. Not far, but it was OK. This was one of the criteria for me, due to the sometimes remote locations we go to. Hope that helps and is a balanced view.
  29. 1 point
    As I noted on another forum, your expectations for power gains are probably a bit of a pipe dream. Normally aspirated Porsche engines have historically showed only very small gains in either torque or HP from the type of modifications you are considering when validated in dyno testing, and even these small gains only occurred at the very high end of the RPM curves. While the marketers of these products typically make substantial improvement gains, before and after dyno runs have not born out their claims. To get the 40-50 HP you are seeking is going to require significant internal engine modifications, which is not going to come cheaply.
  30. 1 point
    After a few emails and a couple of phone conversations, I have decided to send my car to Flat 6 Innovations. Jake believes it is a broken chain (he has seen these symptoms many times) and I tend to agree. Hopefully I don't have any piston damage and I will get the car back in a few weeks. But if there is piston damage I would get an entire engine reconstruction which takes 8 to 10 months... Although a Raby rebuild would be nice.
  31. 1 point
    When somebody takes good care of their car, there is little that can be said in a situation such as that other than commiserations. I wish you good luck.
  32. 1 point
    Well... I jacked-up the car to inspect and as I was jacking I saw two drops of oil. Thinking to myself maybe the bracket holding the solenoid broke (I read that somewhere on one of the forums), something simple. But when I got under the vehicle there was quite a bit of oil on the front of the cam cover (nearest the passenger compartment). Closer inspection I discovered the cam cover is cracked near the top probably a couple inches long. I have a major issue (possibly broken cam). Now I need to decide how to replace the motor... Rebuild, salvage, new, Jake Raby. Wish me luck. My wife asked, "how could this happen? You take car of your cars and don't abuse them." My reply... "things break".
  33. 1 point
    Procedure to initialize steering column 1. Switch on ignition 2. Use seat adjustment to tilt backrest completely forward ( as far as the stop) 3. Keep switch pressed in this position ( approx. 5 seconds ) until you hear a signal tone on the instrument cluster. The control unit is initialized.
  34. 1 point
    Easiest way to remove the fuel door without breaking or scratching anything is to use a mini pair of longnose needle nose pliers. "Not a Screwdriver". I was able to remove the fuel door hinge in about 30 seconds. use the pliers to pinch the locking lugs. 1.Stick the pliers into the upper section A and pinch the lugs while pulling up slightly. You will hear & feel the upper section of the hinge pull up slightly (about 1/8" inch)
  35. 1 point
    How about item 6 in this image http://www.autoatlanta.com/porsche-parts/hardparts.php?dir=9PA-03-06&section=817-45
  36. 1 point
  37. 1 point
    Helen: The "temperamental" nature of the problem that you describe points to either bad/degraded connections at a number of possible points, or a hairline crack at the parallel strips microswitch inside of the convertible top latch assembly or a deformed plunger-type microswitch, also inside that latch assembly. You must first verify that the parking brake light on the dashboard is actually lit up when you pull up on the parking brake. Then double check that your fuses at B6 (supplies power to the convertible top double relay) and at D3 (supplies power to the convertible top motor) are intact AND that there is no corrosion at their respective spades on at the female receptacles on the fuse panel into which they are pressed. You can clean up any corrosion in those areas with a small piece of fine emery cloth. Next, double check for and clean up any corrosion on all of the male spades of the convertible top double relay, and the same for the female receptacles in the relay tray that accept the double relay spades. You can also tap the double relay on the ground a couple of times sharply, as that sometimes "revives" a sticking relay. If you have done all of the above and still get no reaction at all, you can then move to the convertible top latch assembly and its two microswitches. When you unlatch the top, the latch releases the plunger type microswitch inside the latch assembly and that causes it to ground. When it is grounded, a signal is sent to drop the windows about 4 inches. Poke your finger or a pencil eraser into that depression in the latch assembly and see if you get any reaction from the windows. If you don't, you will have to open up the latch assembly to access the two microswitches. Try the above steps first and report back. If there is no improvement, we can proceed with instructions on how to remove the latch assembly, etc... Regards, Maurice.
  38. 1 point
  39. 1 point
    Sorry for the late reply guys. I snapped some pictures last weekend while fishing. In the second picture you can see the front wheel arch, where I removed the mud flap and bent the plastic from the wheel arch over where the mud flap was fastened. This is basically plastic to plastic with screws, but it holds pretty well. It doesn't look pretty up close, but you never notice it. I had the BF Goodrich 265/65R18 tires microcut (as can be seen on the close up image) to be able to use them in the snow. Road noise has not increased noticeably. The car handles a bit differently, much better on gravel and only slightly worse on asphalt. I recommend the change to those that want to use the Cayenne off-road or on rough roads. Thor
  40. 1 point
  41. 1 point
    Here are some things to go over with your service advisor... 1. Ask them to: Please check and fix any other oil leaks (intemediate shaft, cam covers, from pulley seal) at the same time. Also, check and replace the clutch if needed. 2. Ask them if they will be checking the installation position of the crankshaft with special tool 9699/1. 3. Make sure you get documentation of the part numbers used and approriate dates for potential future warranty claims. 4. Ask them to pray for your car... ;)
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