Loren

I do not know everything about the early options and TC was only around for the C2 in MY99. Traction Control (TC) is a combination of anti-slip control (ASR) and Automatic Brake Differential (ABD). TC prevents spinning of the drive wheels when moving off and accelerating. It does this through a series of sensors (also used by the ABS system) and controlling individual wheel braking. By doing so driving stability and traction are improved over the entire speed range. PSM includes the functions: ABS, Traction Control (TC), ABD, MSR (engine drag torque control). ABD is part of TC and to my knowledge was not sold separately - together they formed the early version of PSM.

The official name (in the Porsche parts list) for option 224 is "Automatic Limited Slip Differential". There are no parts in the parts list that identify with a M 224 label - so what is it? ABD? maybe?

Technically the option 220 "Locking Differential 40%" is also "automatic" since the multiple-disc limited-slip differential causes locking when one wheel begins to slip. This is the mechanical LSD we all know.

I can not find an option 234 listed anywhere.

I sent you a PM.

Ok here's the deal, spoke with Neil at NRauto. Real nice guy very informative. He told me to replace the original bumper with the GT2 ( or most upgrades like the Turbo or GT3) you need to trim off 1 1/2" of the reinforcement  just before the bolts. Or you can purchase a new reinforcement to replace it.  I would think trimming off the reinforcement would be a good way to go. 

I will be going through with the change as I do body work I will take pictures along the way and try and provide a detailed M&P.

Regards

Joe

Mike good to hear from you again!

Sorry, but you will need a PST2 or PIWIS tester or Bosch 500, 650 etc. type tester to reset the airbag light. It would be nice if some of the lower end scan tools would do this - but they don't. Perhaps they have legal concerns?

Don't be such a stranger eh...

Loren, can you please give me the tsb number for the sat radio install?

i have a may 05 and would like the sat!

thank you

chile96 - yes, it looks like you need 996 622 705 00.

You will need the correct trim pieces for around the PCM unit.

Are you planning on doing this yourself?

Well you can email to me if you want. Usually the US (PCNA) TSBs are the same or very close to the RoW TSBs. The (US) TSB we have is dated 25-May-04 and is 7 pages long. CoreyNJ used it to do his install that is documented in a DIY here.

loren - this is exactly what i need!.... but can't figure out how to read it.  pardon my ignorance but i need a little help.

i currently have an '03 C2 with the Bose CDR-23 radio

i am adding the PCM2 and removing the CRD-23

at the same time, i'd like to add the CDC-4

no telephone

now - how do i read the chart that you posted?  or could you just tell me what part numbers i need to order?  i think it is 996.622.705.00 ???

thanks a ton!

Without the fault codes (and there had to be some since the light was on) we are just guessing. As for the fault codes and then post them here.

BTW... when my car was still under warranty a dealer was ready to replace my DME - then they found the DME cable was very loose. Tightened it and no problems since then. This may not be your case but it's worth a look.

It shows up in my parts list but does not reference a replacement.

When several strange electrical things happen the ignition switch may be going bad. Have you had any trouble turning the key or other strange electrical faults?

C2? 

Well, the suggested way is to remove the wheel hub and press the bearing out using a hydraulic press. Some (automotive) machine shops will let you bring in the part and they will press it out for you fairly inexpensively. Installation also requires that you heat the new bearing to 100 degrees C (or about 210 F in your oven). If you are careful and mark all of the positions before undoing the bolts you might get away without an alignment. Might be good to have it checked afterwards anyway.

Loren,

I think you meant heating the wheel carrier. Usually you freeze the bearing.

If you can get the bearing out/in without removing the wheel carrier then no alignment should be necessary. Most shops charge 3-4 hours for a bearing R&R.

Do you look at the DIY instructions here?

Or do you have DRL and want them off?

Yeah, you are right I missed that. The good news is any of the 3 will work on your car.

:welcome:

I checked out the option decoder on rennlist.com and 014 is not there. 

I have a few option codes that I can't sort out either, 222 and 234 on my '99 996 coupe tip.  If you find a decoder that shows up 014, let me know, maybe mine will be there too.

Where there's life, there's hope...

Well, I've heard that if you just remove the oil filter canister pour the oil out and put it back on that will take about 1/2 quart. Or... if it is way high then drain the oil into a very clean (10 quart) container and only put back the right amount.

:lol: Mine were taken at a concours in Palo Alto...

Well, bleeding the brakes on a car without TC can be done without a PST2. Bleeding the brakes is a little different than bleeding the control unit. I'm pretty sure if you are changing the ABS hydraulic control unit you need to open the valves to bleed the new unit - with a PST2 on all versions of ABS. Although you might be able to trigger the ABS relay (next to the ABS hydraulic unit) to open the valves by jumpering the right points.

Well, the only thing you can do is trust the measurement bars. I strive to be 1 or 2 bars from the top (just above midway). That way if I go to the track or do some spirted driving I'm safe and don't create blow by.

 

They can drop the engine to check for leaks around the side of engine too in case your lead isn't just RMS. 

 

Check you oil level. It may be over filled.

Most likely the battery - but sometimes some dirt gets in there too. It would be best to put in a new battery and clean the contacts well.

It is in the MY03 Boxster Owners Manual here. Page 155.