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Posts posted by Loren
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It might make sense to check the wheels on the car also. I saw a 996 with Boxster wheels in the rear once. They were 9" wide instead of 10". The car drove very light (and loose) in the rear.
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Eagleday part number and price: P-00004470026 -- $499.95
Porsche Dealer part number and retail price: 000 044 70 026 -- $486.89
Hmm... part numbers look familiar - but EagleDay is charging over retail?
Let the buyer beware...
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We have added the MY05 Boxster (987) Owners Manual and Carrera GT manuals. There is an updated version of the Carrera (997) Owners Manual. They are available to download here.
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I sent you a PM...
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Is the dealer Carlson?
Might be worth a second opinion... and Peter Smith at Stevens Creek is the best Boxster guy around.
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Yeah, something must not be right especially if they both wear fast. Cars with TC and LSD don't usually get poorer mileage out their tires unless they track the car a lot. 996's go through rears about twice as fast as the fronts but still even aggressive drivers (like me) still get 9000 - 11000 miles on the rears. I'm the guy that got 9000 ;)
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Oil and filter change on a 996/986 is easy. The drain plug is staring you in the face. It is even more easy on a 996. If a 996 is not lowered I can get to the plug without a jack. On the mid-engine Boxster we have to jack up the left side a bit to slide under car because the engine is 180 degrees reversed.
Sorry, I should have mentioned that I have an '02 996TT and things look a little different than in the photos and the DIY drawings....neither seem to acknowledge a 996 Turbo. While it is still a 3.6L boxer, it is a different motor and I don't want to forget something important.
First, the oil filter is inside the engine bay and not underneath like the 996..... I assume I want to take that off LAST (after gravity drains most of the oil out of the engine), unless I want a couple of ounces of oil all over the engine compartment?
Also, should I be looking for a second drain plug underneath, like the oil resevoir and oil cooler radiator on the 930 Turbo that held most of the oil outboard the motor? Or is it now just one plug and gravity takes it all out at once?
Thanks in advance for your help.
You are looking at the wrong DIY. The TT/GT2/GT3 Oil Change DIY is here.
I'll move this post to the TT forum so there will be less confusion.
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Did they swap out the oxygen sensor relay (position 2 - relay carrier next to DME)?
and check or replace the oxygen sensor jumpers at relay position 6?
If so, then there is nothing left except the DME.
BTW... I show a retail price of $1878.09 for the DME (996 618 601 04). Maybe an hour labor to transfer the mileage/programming.
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Ah... then maybe you will like this one... it has twelve cylinders... (sorry not a Boxster)
Hint - play it LOUD (because it is)
917/10 (about 12 MB)
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Any spacers or non Porsche wheels? If so how large are the spacers and what is the size and offset of the wheels?
If you have TC then you likely have a LSD. You should not get any screeching except when a rear wheel is slipping.
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Can you ask them for the fault codes? Better yet a history of the codes (they have these in the database). With a code histroy you might see a pattern.
There are a number of Pcodes that point to a problem in the DME. Without the codes everyone is shooting in the dark.
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Another question...
Does your car have Traction Control (TC)?
and/or Limited Slip Differential (LSD)?
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What were the fault codes?
BTW... Back when my car was in warranty I had my DME cable connection come loose and my car behaved very erratically. The dealer replaced the MAF and then thought it was the O2 sensors and then when they finally went to replace the DME they found the cable was so loose it fell out. Once they put it back in (and tie-wrapped it) the car ran fine. Might be worth a look...
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955 362 050 10 Emergency Wheel with collapsible tire 6.5J x 18 ET 53 (retail $505.96)
Also available in colors - according to the parts list.
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I believe the 245's will rub slightly on tight turns with a factory RoW sport suspension. If you go lower then it might rub even more. A safe bet is 235's (IMHO).
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I have never seen a MY99 with TC that did not have LSD (not to say it isn't possible). Check you option codes for M220 or M224. If you don't have the codes you can get a certificate of authenticity from PCNA that will show all of your cars' original options.
The LSD on a MY99 is only 40%. From the tech manual:
To get the engine’s power safely to the road in a standing start, slip is limited to 40 percent. Once under power, the slip factor changes to 60 percent because the engine no longer is operating at its maximum torque and also because this configuration helps minimize oversteer under load changes through a turn. -
Sounds like a warranty issue...
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I'm looking at the schematic (MY04 GT3) and I don't see anything different (power wise) than they have done in the past. A4 (red/black wire) should go to Fuse D8 (unswitched power) which is radio only.
The Traffic Pro should have a switched power on A7 - you can get that from the phone prep connector (green/black wire as I recall).
If the radio/Traffic Pro is on when the ignition is turned off then it should come on when the ignition is on again. Also, with the ignition off you should be able to press the on button on the radio/Traffic Pro and it should play for 1 hour (or until turned off).
Something is definitely wrong with the wiring if the heater doesn't come on until you turn the radio on - they should be seperate circuits.
BTW... where are you located?
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Did you look at the Traffic Pro manual, installation instructions and the connector diagram here?
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Yes, that is the correct part number for a MY00 Cab/6speed/2WD. PM me if you want a detailed parts list.
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Your car must be unusual because my car and every other one I've taken off is 13mm.Just to get really picky, the DIY shows the M6 screw as needing a 13mm wrench - in fact, it should be a 10mm wrench.Sad, aren't I?
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The cats for RoW GT3's and US GT3's are the same. The DME programming is different.
Broken Nuts
in 928, 928S Series
Posted
If you mean the wheel bolts (studs)... they are just a press fit in the hub. To remove and replace them you drive them towards the center of the car with a hammer. (item 3)