BobbySpeed

I went to the Hawk HPS and now regret it. I am thinking of taking them off and going back to stock.

I didn't have auto lights because the car they had that i wanted didn't have them, but because of the rain sensor I was abble rto just change the lights and have the coming home feature activated. I' ve heard people say yes you can, and others say no you can't.

Isupposedly if you have rain sensors the wiring is waiting, but the mirrors are over $700 and That is a big gamble.

Putting those H&R springs on the car will theoretically make a bigger difference than changing sidewall height by 2", but hurry up and put them on so you can share your experience!

Cool website, thanks for the url.

The numbers on the tire sizes are wrong. I have 255/55/18 and am looking at 275/40/20. The difference is on average half-a-mile per hour- and you can't even go by that because the comparison tool doesn't compare the same tires.

Obviously the ride Will be stiffer with a shorter side wall, which will in turn provide less flex when cornering, thus improving the performance which is why I'm looking for seat of the pants ride experience. I want to know how much more intense the bumps and potholes are in the 20 inch tire compared to an 18 inch tire in a Cayenne. Thanks for your input.

How big an effect will moving to bigger wheels have? On ride quality I have 18" wheels and am looking at 20" wheels I like.

I don't have an air suspension I have a V6.

We'll see that, I'm safe because I still haven't gotten the James Bond feature to drive my car underwater to Potugal! Oh wait, I forgot, that was a Lotus.

But seriously, what is the average mileage befonre needing a water pump on a a V6 Cayenne? Maybe a poll is in order? Also, are you talk about the miles or kilometers?

Thanks, a future water pump is on my list of things to be ready for, after a fix for my cardan shaft which will need to be addressed soon enough.

Sorry, I should have just said that I bought Redline fluids- yes I bought the 75W90 for the diffs. I am going to be changing my valvebody when the weather breaks and bought the necessary amount of D4 for the tranny and the transfercase.

Just got back from the dealer. Transmission fluid in harness leading up to control unit. Start by replacing harness inside transmission and cleaning harness and replacing transmission control unit. Parts cost $1119.48, labor cost $1113.

I need a diagram- got one? I know, shame on me for not buying a shop manual yet.

I was expecting the valvebody to be the issue and was willing to jump right on that seeing I want to change my tranny oil which was last changed 5 years ago at about 40 K.

Getting ready to change my front & rear differential and transfer case oils- Redline D4 waiting in the garage.

Wet tranny harness supposedly the cause of my hard shifts, but could that alone be the culprit?

Indy told me it was my cardan shaft. To me it sounds like a valvebody. I really don't want to pay for one thing only to find out I have to end up paying fir another.

Anyone pay to have the shifting problem fixed dueo a harness wicking oil? Is it a DIY?

What is the going stealership rate?

Yeah , I know about the water pump issue, but I'm not having a problem there. As a matter of fact since I put on the new belt I'm not getting any noise even though it had been squeaking before both with the old belt on and off. So I am now good for the moment.

78K on car now. Just started hearing what I thought was a belt in need of replacement, which threw mw because I check the belt periodically.

I said what the heck, there's plenty of miles on this one so I ordered a new one.

I just removed the belt- which is dry but w/o cracking- and inspected the pulleys for play.

There pulleys don't wobble, and have no play, except the alternator pulley has a little squeak- but no play.

Lubrication? Replacement?

Back in the day lubrication would have been the fix for a long while. but not sure on this car.

Is it serviceable?

Wow, I forgot yhat post! Sooo long ago!

Great, I will order the tool, and I think since I will be in there I will just replace the parking brake shoes and hardware.

Once I am done with the install, is there an adjustment procedure for the parking brake so I get a fairly high pedal and don't have to press almost all the way to the floor?

Finish my rear brake job today and since then my emergency brake is not holding when I park it.

I also I'm hearing a little squealing from the rear brakes when I drive which I thought was just the pads wearing the coating off of the rotors. The car is breaking very well, and the pedal is right where it belongs- nice and high.

okay I lean on it, and Ive had the car for 8 years, but the center console is squeaking is really aggravating

Driver side is blowing fairly cool but passenger side is blowing warm- except on cool days.

Had this problem last year and did an a/c evac and recharge, and a/c blew nice and cold out both sides.

I hear a hissing sound sometimes on the passenger side, and sometimes when a/c is at the coldest setting with fan turned up all the way up there is a kind of ticking rattling sound.

I have a 2006 V6 Cayenne.

1. My car used to chirp when locking the car with the fob, after I changed the car's battery it stopped chirping. Lights still flash, and the batteries in my key fobs are new.

2. I changed my headlight switch from the regular one to the auto headlights and it works perfectly. There is no lights settings on the dash information center for lights, but I want the delayed off/coming home feature so my lights will stay on for those 15 or so seconds to light my way at dark. I asked the dealer over the phone and he never heard of being able to do so, but I seem to remember people activating that feature with their Durametric.

I have vision issues so these things are important to me.

Thanks for your time

You didn't replace the rotors? Isn't there now a lip on the outer edge of your rotors?

My warning light will be coming on soon because My front brakes will need to be changed.

OEM, Zimmerman, EBC, or a different brand for rotors? Drilled, slotted?

OEM, Pagid, Hawk HPS, Hawk ceramic, or different brand pads?

Naturally I would like less dust, but most importantly I want better braking.

What have you tried and liked and feel comfortable recommending?

I've had my Cayenne for eight years come April, and as soon as I got her I combed Craig's List for an extra set of wheels and tires. I found s guy selling a set of 4 of the 18" turbo wheels with Potenzas that had only about 2k miles on them and bought them along with a Porsche roof box for about $800, and over the summer I picked up a set of 4 Pirelli Scorpions for $500 from a guy who decided not to drive his Cayenne in the snow. I have Blizaks on since the beginning of November and I have never thought twice about going out in the snow. I just took my wife up and down some big hills to get her to the train and had Zero problems, unlike the idiot in the BMW X3 who just about went 180 degrees making a left almost slamming into the sidewalk, which would have cost him/ her more than my latest set of Blizaks. I drive smart and never have a problem. If you live where it snows and don't have snow tires buy them so you can keep your Cayenne out of the body shop. I will enjoy seeing how far and long mine lasts, as of right now I have 63k and other than maintenance I have only had to buy a battery, brakes, a set of ignition coils and a few sets of wipers. My Cayenne is just and comfortable and rides just as well as when I bought her other than a few ght her. Go Cayenne!

Changed all 6 plugs and coils and it is much better, but the CELis still on and there is some sputtering.

Before the noticable need for coils there was no sputtering.

On the last coil, which didn't want to cone out, the metal was white, not shiny & silvery, and it left the cylindrical wall the spark plug goes in dis colored, compared to the others. Could that discoloration be the cause?

The plugs supposedly come pre-gapped so I didn't alter it, and the plugs were carefully cloud down the tubes, not dropped, using a magnet. I felt the coils seat it's rubber boot on the plug so they went on all the way.

How bad would it be to drive about 100 miles with the sputter for a few days if I can't solve this problem today? I don't have a Durametric to diagnose the car, and there is no auto zone around here.

The issue you're going to have is the rubber boot inside the metal jacket is going to be "suction cupped" onto the spark plug.

Only though is to get a long hex bolt (the bolt head slightly smaller than the spark plug hole). Put A SMALL AMOUNT of JBweld on the head of the bolt and carefully smoosh it against the broken piece. Let it harden and then carefully twist and turn.

Thank you everyone for your help, clarksongli's JB Weld suggestion did the trick. I put an 11/16ths sockets on the bolt on the opposite side of the head of the bolt and packed the socket with paper toweling around the screw to keep it centered in the socket. The 11/16ths socket fits just right in the hole. After about 20 hours I just pulled it straight out with no trouble.

I knew it was the boot because I disassembled 1 of the 4 that wasn't a problem but I didn't think of a cold weld product. The snow doesn't help me getting to the store but I sent my sons out to shovel and I will dare to go to Homer's

2006 V6 Cayenne

I am pulling my coils to change them and the plugs. 4 out of 6 came out normally, 2 separated in the block.

It is deep and don't have any idea how to get the other half out since I can't reach it with a drill bit to tap them.

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