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Everything posted by JTT

  1. Hey Roy, Yes, in fact I used the NAPA one (even cheaper than the Audi one). Working great, but I think I'll buy an Audi one to keep in glove box just in case. The first time changing this is a bit of a PIA as there are tiny grub screws used to secure the switch in place, but very little room to manoeuvre a screwdriver. I replaced those grub screws with M4 cap head screws that I ground the tip to a point (like the grub screws, to bite into the plastic when snugged). As there is very little torque on these, I can now tighten and loosen with my fingers, making the job super easy and quick.
  2. Another thing that seems to cause random electrical glitches is the ignition switch (not the mechanical part, but the electrical part). I know my car would start intermittently last spring, and occasionally start them shut right back off. After much worrying about expensive controller damage I took a chance and replaced this switch (>$20 at NAPA) and all issues solved.
  3. Thanks Loren. I read a lot about exhaust tips drooping low on one side or other, and cabin vibration as indicators as well as leaks and tears. I just figured there was something more "measurable". I have no visible leaks, tears or obvious deterioration (as you can see in pic). Both exhaust tips are equal height, but I seem to have a little vibration at idle I can feel through the wheel, that I don't remember feeling when I first got the car two seasons ago.
  4. Does anyone have a measurement for how much droop is too much? Measured from the chassis to the carrier, not exhaust tips?
  5. There seems to be some contradictory information out there on this. Did the recommended heat range change from the 3.4 to 3.6? What I seem to be finding is that 3.4 used a Bosch or Beru "6", but 3.6 went to "5" (colder)?? My particular application is a 2003 C2. Pelican suggests a "5", while what is in my car are "6", but are not likely originals (can't confirm). Which is right? "5" or "6"?? Thanks Joe
  6. When I did mine recently, I discovered one of the grub screws had been replaced with a longer screw that allowed me to turn it loose with just my fingers. After wrestling with a tiny screwdrive to loosem the other orignial grub screw, I replaced it also with a linger standard screw, which I sharpened the tip with grinder first. Now I should be able to do it next time tool free, and MUCH easier.
  7. Lunenburg is a nice little town for sure. I think I'd like Texas better in Feb though When you say door sill controls, you mean the memory buttons on the driver side correct? I hadn't really thought about them. I haven't touched mine, been swamped with work and building a new garage. I appreciate you keeping me up to date! I'm horrible at diagnosing electronics.
  8. I'm interested in hearing your progress. My right mirror has a potentiometer error indicated on Durametric too.
  9. My right mirror has started to adjust itself to the full, pointing up, position when opening locks with keyless entry. Memory feature has always worked fine until just recently. Power mirror still functions normally from the switch, but overtime I have to adjust it back to a normal position after unlocking. Any suggestions where to look for the issue here? Thanks,
  10. I used a Kenwood KDC-X300 HU and a Clarion XC 2110 compact mono amp for subs. Amp is mounted to the original amp mount, with enough room for a second compact 4 channel should i decide to upgrade.
  11. I threw in the towel and went for a aftermarket amp and HU. All installed and working great.
  12. That's a big help knowing the TERM terminology Loren! In this case it didn't solve my issue, but is great info for future application. Thanks! In this case I ended up running a lead through the firewall into the cabin and tapped into the switched feed to HU.
  13. I've installed an aftermarket amp and HU in my 2003 MOST Bose Cab. All went perfect from pinouts provided here for the HU. After getting everything in, I discovered that I neglected to run a switched source into the trunk to trigger the new amp! There must have been a switched source in the original harness to trigger the factory amp? Can anyone identify the wire colour or which plug it is on?
  14. I've done this hack. Yes, it turns on the low beam headlights on startup. This is pretty common practice. My ultimate preference would be the fog lights as I'm not fond of using up operating hours on my Litronic lighting. Which light did you want to turn on?
  15. David, did you ever make any progress with this?
  16. Everything is back to stock, including the MOST cable. No sound :cursing: I'm figuring the amp is toast, but don't have any idea how to test it. Open to suggestions. Head unit powers up and shows no errors or issues, just nothing out of the speakers. Oh, and I know the speakers are working, as the aftermarket head unit was tapped directly into the outputs from the amp to the speakers.
  17. Sorry for dragging out an old thread, but I am struggling to install the original CDR 23 BOSE system in my car. Is there a way to test the amp to see if it is working? The head unit powers up and seems to be working, but there is no sound. If I understand correctly, the MOST cable is the only output from the head unit to the amp and that all the speakers are driven from the amp. All fuses appear to be good. So I am thinking the next variable is the amp, but I don't know how to verify if the amp is serviceable or I should search for other faults.
  18. Mine is a CDR 23. Yeah, I think there has been an aftermarket installed, removed, replaced original, then another aftermarket installed. I discovered a whole second harness not connected at either end, from what I presume was the first aftermarket install. I've removed this to avoid confusion. What I presume was the second aftermarket install, tapped into the harness plugged into the head unit and ran independent wires back to the amp and connected into what I believe is the speaker outputs from the amp (essentially bypassing the amp). I "believe" I have all the original wires back in place in the proper connectors now. There is power getting to the amp in at least one point as I was probing around with my meter last evening. What's odd is the colour combinations coming out of the head unit, do not "seem" to coordinate with what is going into the amp. The investigation continues.
  19. Does anyone have a wiring diagram for a 2003 MOST Bose stereo system?
  20. Thanks Kevin! That seems to be it! Ok, now I have the head unit powering up, channel selector and CD changer seems to be working....but no sound! Arrgghh!
  21. I'm trying to reinstall my stock Porsche stereo, after some butcher (previous owner) installed an aftermarket head unit. I think I have everything sorted, but found this yellow plug in the dash. I can't find anywhere in the Becker head unit that it will fit. Where does it go? Oh, 2003 Carrera C2 Bose. Thanks, Joe
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