Jump to content

The RennTech.org community is Member supported!  Please consider an ANNUAL donation to help keep this site operating.
Click here to Donate

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

JTT

Contributing Members
  • Content Count

    65
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    2

Everything posted by JTT

  1. Put the roof in the service position (about halfway between up and down) and reach in between the liner and the roof. There should be a strap running from driver to passenger side. Mine had similar issues to what you are describing and this strap had pulled off. I simply took a needle and nylon thread and sewed it back on...solved.
  2. Jeff, this can only be done with the factory Porsche PIWIS system correct?
  3. BoxerfanTO, there is an outfit in Calgary that is apparently authorized by Hartech out of the UK (kind of the FSI of the UK, very good rep). I've no experience with them but at least no border or exchange issues. http://alpineautowerks.com
  4. Check the tensioning cable. https://rennlist.com/forums/996-forum/574384-solved-convertible-top-not-folding-closed-quite-right-pics.html
  5. Just as a follow up to this post, here are a couple of pics. First is new mount installed. You can see compared to the pic in earlier post there is a considerable difference in the clearance from the chassis to the carrier. The second shows the old and new sitting side by side on the bench. Hope this helps others.
  6. Hey Roy, Yes, in fact I used the NAPA one (even cheaper than the Audi one). Working great, but I think I'll buy an Audi one to keep in glove box just in case. The first time changing this is a bit of a PIA as there are tiny grub screws used to secure the switch in place, but very little room to manoeuvre a screwdriver. I replaced those grub screws with M4 cap head screws that I ground the tip to a point (like the grub screws, to bite into the plastic when snugged). As there is very little torque on these, I can now tighten and loosen with my fingers, making the job super easy and quic
  7. Another thing that seems to cause random electrical glitches is the ignition switch (not the mechanical part, but the electrical part). I know my car would start intermittently last spring, and occasionally start them shut right back off. After much worrying about expensive controller damage I took a chance and replaced this switch (>$20 at NAPA) and all issues solved.
  8. Thanks Loren. I read a lot about exhaust tips drooping low on one side or other, and cabin vibration as indicators as well as leaks and tears. I just figured there was something more "measurable". I have no visible leaks, tears or obvious deterioration (as you can see in pic). Both exhaust tips are equal height, but I seem to have a little vibration at idle I can feel through the wheel, that I don't remember feeling when I first got the car two seasons ago.
  9. Does anyone have a measurement for how much droop is too much? Measured from the chassis to the carrier, not exhaust tips?
  10. There seems to be some contradictory information out there on this. Did the recommended heat range change from the 3.4 to 3.6? What I seem to be finding is that 3.4 used a Bosch or Beru "6", but 3.6 went to "5" (colder)?? My particular application is a 2003 C2. Pelican suggests a "5", while what is in my car are "6", but are not likely originals (can't confirm). Which is right? "5" or "6"?? Thanks Joe
  11. When I did mine recently, I discovered one of the grub screws had been replaced with a longer screw that allowed me to turn it loose with just my fingers. After wrestling with a tiny screwdrive to loosem the other orignial grub screw, I replaced it also with a linger standard screw, which I sharpened the tip with grinder first. Now I should be able to do it next time tool free, and MUCH easier.
  12. Lunenburg is a nice little town for sure. I think I'd like Texas better in Feb though When you say door sill controls, you mean the memory buttons on the driver side correct? I hadn't really thought about them. I haven't touched mine, been swamped with work and building a new garage. I appreciate you keeping me up to date! I'm horrible at diagnosing electronics.
  13. I'm interested in hearing your progress. My right mirror has a potentiometer error indicated on Durametric too.
  14. My right mirror has started to adjust itself to the full, pointing up, position when opening locks with keyless entry. Memory feature has always worked fine until just recently. Power mirror still functions normally from the switch, but overtime I have to adjust it back to a normal position after unlocking. Any suggestions where to look for the issue here? Thanks,
  15. I used a Kenwood KDC-X300 HU and a Clarion XC 2110 compact mono amp for subs. Amp is mounted to the original amp mount, with enough room for a second compact 4 channel should i decide to upgrade.
  16. I threw in the towel and went for a aftermarket amp and HU. All installed and working great.
  17. That's a big help knowing the TERM terminology Loren! In this case it didn't solve my issue, but is great info for future application. Thanks! In this case I ended up running a lead through the firewall into the cabin and tapped into the switched feed to HU.
  18. I've installed an aftermarket amp and HU in my 2003 MOST Bose Cab. All went perfect from pinouts provided here for the HU. After getting everything in, I discovered that I neglected to run a switched source into the trunk to trigger the new amp! There must have been a switched source in the original harness to trigger the factory amp? Can anyone identify the wire colour or which plug it is on?
  19. I've done this hack. Yes, it turns on the low beam headlights on startup. This is pretty common practice. My ultimate preference would be the fog lights as I'm not fond of using up operating hours on my Litronic lighting. Which light did you want to turn on?
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.