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ttocs

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Everything posted by ttocs

  1. ttocs
    I'd be worried. Look at Liftbars. They are very safe, stable, and quick to use. Go to liftbars.com and see for yourself. They lock into the liftpoint holes and good jackstands cradle the liftbars and together they "lock" into position making it a very stable condition. Last I checked they're only a few hundred shipped. It only takes me a couple minutes to put my car on jackstands, just a couple. It would be less if I could pick up my lift and run to the other side like those guys do in Nascar pit stops.
  2. ttocs
    Welcome and Happy New Year! First off, this forum has a wealth of knowledge based on experience, and I found it so helpful with the pre-purchase education that I became a contributing member several days before I picked up my Boxster. Within one day of purchase this knowledge base came in handy for a problem that sprung up . . . . I got a "D-4" flashing led gear indicator lights, long story you can search for if interested, and it turned out to be the weak battery which was diagnosed during the Pre Purchase Inspection. After replacing the battery, no more issues. You might consider replacing the battery "before" replacing parts listed as the cause of CEL's. These electrical systems have a way of doing strange things when operating on a "under-volt" battery. So this would be for #2 and #3. For #2, just as an FYI, when our cars are locked for about a week or more you will not be able to open the locks with the FOB until after using the key to manually unlock then start the car. This is not what is happening with your car at the moment, but I bring it up because it might possibly be related to weak battery?? Don't know, but if it were me I would replace the battery now, then clear everything, then retest. edit: btw, love the Carmon Red!
  3. ttocs
    Looks to me that the brake light is misaligned as well. It looks to be a smidgeon "forward" at the top in relation to the quarter panel, as well as the engine cover being a tad "aft". Smidgeon and tad are both very technical terms, whereas forward and aft are simply nautical.
  4. ttocs
    Thanks a99C4tip for posting the link to Eriksson Industries. Good to know another source for Tip parts. I didn't see anything listed for trans fluid so here's what I did when I changed my fluid. I bought Pentosin's ATF1 for my 2004. The data sheet for ATF1 says that G052162A2 is the VW/Audi OE number and the fluid is listed as being Amber & Clear in color. I purchased Pentosin ATF1 in 5 liter containers from a local CarQuest auto parts that always has some in stock, they sell quite a bit at this location. Buying from a Porsche dealer will cost a bit more even when you use your PCA Member discount, but then there's the peace of mind thing if there's any doubt in your mind.
  5. ttocs
    Excellent news! Earlier this year I had a noise that wasn't always repeatable. It only happened on very hard right bends, like on on-ramps to highways. Mine might be a lesser version of what yours was. I had concluded that my noise was just reflected sound. But now . . . . might be worth checking into further. Thanks for posting this!
  6. ttocs
    I got the following numbers from a 2004 Porsche Katalog. When I searched using one of them it came up with a part number and shifter linkage kit which superseded the number I searched. The part number that came up is: 986-424-041-10 In the Katalog it's called "joint rod adjustable". 986 424 931 05 986 424 931 06 986 424 931 07 See also: 986.424.041.07 986.424.913.06
  7. ttocs
    I see. Good luck with the new one!
  8. ttocs
    Have you tried more than one CD?
  9. ttocs
    Along with what wizard is suggesting, do you use the hand brake? It's worth operating it - gently - at low speed as just a "what if" to see if it produces the noise. Otherwise, maybe check the wheel bearings.
  10. ttocs
    JFP is very wise and has provided sound advice. Frankly, from my own experience and of those I know personally, JFP's advice is conservative - in every sense of the word - as it relates to Tiptronic maintenance. And please be sure the service is done by someone with Porsche Tiptronic experience and using Porsche recommended fluid, not something that is "like" the recommended fluid.
  11. ttocs
    How many miles on the car? How many miles since last trans fluid/filter change?
  12. ttocs
    The term "worth it" is determined by each individual taking the time to decide. From a purely educational point of view, your project can be considered the ultimate opportunity in Porsche related learning. Then there's the monetary side which is tightly wound together with how much DIY and donor parts with which you're willing to work. From the photos above it looks like you are really making some great progress!
  13. ttocs
    himbinboe, just to clarify a little, does the car start and can the shifter select a drive/reverse gear? If not, then it's got to be linkage. If yes, then the path you're on seems correct.
  14. ttocs
    himbinboe, have you checked your battery voltage? If you review the 3rd post above you will find that the battery was a likely fault. Low voltage can cause weird problems. On my car a slightly undervolt battery caused my Tiptronic to go into limp mode while driving.
  15. ttocs
    My guess is windshield washer related. edit: the 7L5971204 is a part number for 2007-2010 Cayenne.
  16. ttocs
    I've done a lot of work on cars way back when, and I do most of the work on my 986, but I had the IMS done by an independent shop. The labor was about 2-1/2 to 3 times the amount of what the tools would've cost. For this operation having a warranty was a major deciding factor, especially when weighed against the possible savings available. The "might as wells" included the AOS, RMS, and Trans Fluid/Filter. Also, when a LN Engineering approved shop does the work, they check first to see if the engine is "qualified" for a Retrofit bearing, thus securing the warranty. Lastly, the bearing choices from LN at the time I had mine done were the Single Row Retrofit or the IMS Solution, and I went with the Retrofit since it was about $1,000 less. Anything other than a plain bearing is a maintenance part - it'll need to be done again in the future. Knowing what I know now, I would've gone with the Solution.
  17. ttocs
    Also if the center locking console lid isn't shut all the way it'll beep.
  18. ttocs
    I was able to duplicate the sound. Using very spirited cornering speed with 2/3 and higher acceleration, I think I'm hearing the sound of the exhaust reflected from the separated surfaces to the right. Since the acceleration has to be above a certain threshold, this is why I sometimes don't hear it, and why I heard it for the first time a few nights ago because I've never been that aggressive on that entrance ramp before. I'm gonna say it's nothing. I was already selecting new tools for possible CV and or bearing replacement. I'll save the list for later. Sorry to jump on this without more to go on.
  19. ttocs
    Thanks for the good points kbrandsma. Tonight I can only hear the cicadas, they're much louder than last night. The sound seemed to be from the right rear, but, because it was a long sweeping right turn highway entrance ramp and the only surfaces that could reflect sound were to the right, it may not have only seemed like it was coming from the right. And as you say, something may have been rubbing, but tonight I just can't duplicate the sound. The brakes are new about 4,000 miles ago and perform flawlessly. The sound wasn't loud, but loud enough to be concerned about. Today was a hot day and I drove the car about 40 miles with no issue but the a/c was on, top down, but no sweeping on/off ramps until the test drive a few minutes ago. Maybe if the cicadas quiet down I'll go out again. Right now my vote is that something must have been rubbing.
  20. ttocs
    My 2004 Boxster has been running simply great! I've done quite a bit of maintaining since I bought it 3 years ago, all with the idea of having it be in tip-top shape. I ordered a new convertible top which comes in next week. And just tonight I replaced the 3-stalk turn signal after manually cancelling the signals for the last couple months. On the maiden test drive I heard a sound I've not heard before!! While turning right, and accelerating either gently or briskly, I hear a sh-sh-sh-sh-sh sound. Kinda like a lawn sprinkler. There is no clicking sound. I'll check it out further tomorrow, but I'd like to ask you all, is this most likely a CV? Or maybe a wheel bearing? Or maybe something that won't cost any more money???
  21. ttocs
    I find it difficult to think that a suitable replacement can’t be found. I mean, there’s gotta be a bent shifter out there somewhere. Or just the knob. However, you could use plastic wrap and stretch form it into the space where the insert goes, then use some bondo to fill the space and form as best as possible, sand, seal, silk screen, etc. Yardda, yadda. It would be a bit of work, and a little messy. . . . or, you could pay ‘da man.
  22. ttocs
    FWIW It takes about a second for the door-handle-lift and window-drop actions to play out, at least with my 2004. From the outside, I lift, pause very briefly, then open. From the inside, since it takes a brief moment to begin pushing the door open after actuating the door pull, the window has dropped and it isn't an issue.
  23. ttocs
    Does the "auto down" and "auto up" function normally using the inside switch?
  24. ttocs
    I wish happy miles upon you! Please keep us updated from time to time. Will you be doing a few low mile oil changes and analysis to provide a baseline and tracking future progress?
  25. ttocs
    . . . . and you'll want to replace the hose clamps with Porsche part for any hose you disconnect. Any negative issues I've read have been when using non-Porsche clamps, but have never read anything negative when using Porsche clamps.
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