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ttocs

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Everything posted by ttocs

  1. They'll do just fine even "in" the storms. On my daily drivers DWS is what I preferred to run on compared to Nokian (great all weather tire but not as good as DWS for summer), and Vredsteins (great handling winter tire but hates warm weather). On my 986 the DW allows for occasional cold weather driving but not below freezing and I don't like to take the car out in non-dry winter weather. I'm a big believer in the DWS tires for all season driving.
  2. I did the opposite with my '04. My hvac controls were at the top, and I had them moved to the bottom when a double din radio was installed. Starting from the top just below vents the order on my car was: 1. hvac 2. radio 3. cd slots 4. open bin If yours is currently in the upper bay of the lower console then I don't think you need any "parts" except if the very bottom bay of the lower console is involved. To move the hvac to the bottom a part had to be ordered from Porsche to surround the hvac control. The photo you posted confuses me, is this your car or what you want yours to be? This is how mine is now:
  3. Thanks White987S for the response. Yes, I'm a big fan of Blackstone Labs. I've only done one UOA with a Focus ST with 50k on it, but I was interested in what 35k miles of K&N filter usage would show. Their report said that the oil could've gone beyond the 5k interval and no contamination found. This will be my first opportunity for a UOA on the Porsche since learning about analysis. Thanks again JFP for the helpful info. Good to know that the spacetime continuum won't be upset if I choose to begin using JG DT40 without a flush. Happy about saving a buck and a quarter. ps: FWIW I usually drive the Tip in manual mode, generally keep the rpm around 2.5k - 3k, since it's not a daily driver it's a rare occasion for short stint driving - mostly long drives, also the floor is familiar with what the backside of the throttle pedal feels like.
  4. So after re-reading some info on JG DT40, there is the recommendation to "flush" using the JG break-in oil for a few hundred miles. Is this what you'd recommend?
  5. Are you referring to Joe Gibbs oil I've read about in some older posts here at Renntech?
  6. Really? With all the reading I've done regarding oil change frequency I've come away with believing that 5k miles or 1 year is the recommendation for my car. The 1 year mark comes up in a couple months. So then, what is the recommended change interval with Mobil 1 oil? Thanks wizard and sergiu for your replies.
  7. I bought my 2004 986 Tiptronic with a 2.7 with 30,000 miles on it a year ago and almost immediately had the oil changed. I think they used a Castrol oil, a special type this independent uses for their racing customers. They checked the old oil and filter for signs of trouble and didn't find any. A few months later I had a bunch of things taken care of by a different mechanic, one of which was another oil change. This garage used Mobil 1 0-40 and the occasional noise on startup became almost nonexistent. 5,000 miles later I'm getting ready to change the oil again and I can't see that any oil has been consumed. The oil also looks pretty clean, even so I will send a sample for analysis. I was under the impression that these engines use oil, but mine has not done so. I checked often initially but when I saw that the level was always the same (using the dip stick) I backed off to checking less often, but I do use the cluster gauge often. So now that the magic number of miles between oil changes has come along I'm wondering if others have had the same experience.
  8. Nice when it's simple and you can find the problem without too much hassle.
  9. Is the clamshell touching any part of the the top itself? or, is there space between clamshell and top? The difference may indicate which is at fault. If the top is settled down and not touching, then it's gonna be an issue with only the clamshell. If the two are touching then the top may not be settling down far enough for the clamshell to nestle into the closed position.
  10. I've had many sets of DWS's (not the DWS06) on previous cars and loved them as the happy medium between Nokian all weather tires and any of the other all season tires. The last car with them was a 2013 Focus ST (sold a few months ago) and they were used as winter tires and they held up well to festive driving in the dry and warmer weather while providing very good snow traction. My 986 has a set of DW Continentals and they are great also. I don't track or auto cross the car but if I did I'd want something better, but for the street they work great. They provide for thrilling handling on fun off-ramps and they are compliant enough in cold weather that I can drive safely in dry, above freezing temperatures. The summer tires for my ST, Goodyear F1 Asymmetrical, were like driving on wet pavement below 50f degrees and got really hard and slippery at 45f on dry streets, but in summer they are amazingly good.
  11. I just did the Illinois Air Team emissions test today and experienced the same issue. I hate being in "the little room" they put us in while testing the car. I noticed the tech shaking his head and making multiple connection attempts to the OBD port. Upon the instance of the first supervisor coming over to override the system I stuck my head out to be party to the issue. Their system wasn't "talking" to my car. I even told them to completely remove the key before another attempt but they weren't going to listen to me. A second, more experienced supervisor came over and assisted in making a third attempt for success. He told me that he's never seen this before on a Porsche, just on Jettas and the like. He said I was lucky because upon three connection failures the system results with an automatic Fail. In my case the system did a "fallback" and my test Passed. So I'm good for a couple years. Now, after reading above about the four way flasher trick I'll be ready for next time. Thank you to the OP and responders for the valuable info. I only wish that I had the foresight to have read this prior to entering the test bay. edit: I wasn't clear about the "fallback". It's the "fallback" that the second supervisor said he's never seen applied to testing on a Porsche before.
  12. eric1234, FWIW I have a 2004 base with 30k miles when I purchased it. I had Porsche do a PPI (Pre Purchase Inspection) that cost $350 - I highly recommend doing this. While no serious issues were found, I knew I was going to replace the IMS for any non-fixed car I ended up with. For the LN Retrofit single row IMS I paid an independent $1800 for the part and labor one year ago. That's a steal! This independent does 10-15 IMS bearings a year and work mainly on Porsches and other German brands. I've got 5k miles on new bearing and the engine runs very smoothly. I requested that they give me my old bearing so I could discern its condition and found that the shaft can wobble about 1/16" which is a lot considering it shouldn't be able to wobble at all ! While things were torn apart I also had them do the normal other stuff as a "might as well" sort of thing. Rear main seal, Air Oil Separator, Plugs and any routine maintenance figuring the amount of elapsed time on the car. Hope this info helps. Good luck hunting!
  13. Thanks for this everybody. Gonna change the oil soon and this is good info and perfect timing for me.
  14. +1 what wizard said. Protect the lump at all costs. I know it's really tough, but skipping 3 nice long drives would pay for the difference.
  15. While my 986 is 5 years older and and is non-Bose I think sharing my experience may be of benefit. First off, the sound was just adequate and I wanted more features so I went with a Kenwood double din plus Alpine amp and definitely professional install. I kept the stock wires and optical cable in place for peace of mind - just in case ??? The sound was very much improved. However, upon receiving the very first phone call I immediately discovered that Kenwood's default phone volume setting is maximum!! thus blowing one of the dash speakers. I cannibalized the stock speaker rings and installed a couple of rather inexpensive 2-way speakers in the dash and retained the woofers in the doors. This project I did myself. The sound is now very good. I initially did this as a cheap project thinking that over the winter I would get some really nice Hertz component speakers but I've been so pleased that I'm leaving things as they are. Also, I only listen to music in the car 50% of the time at most, the rest of the time the sound of the engine is my music. Lastly, when one wants to be immersed in glorious sound, there is a chair in the living room just for that purpose, and the chair becomes a time machine because hours go by without realizing it . . . then I go for another drive with the top down!
  16. Thank you. At a young age, I was taught: "Never enter into any situation except to improve it". This is a deceptively difficult ideal to achieve. i checked the Bentley manual, and it says to replace the brake pad wear sensor wire if it looks worn.
  17. I hear what you're saying' 911Dreaming. Sorry you had difficulty. I also called a local wheel repair place that has been around for a long time. They mostly do powder coating and claim that they get a smooth finish. But frankly, after talking to them I don't come away with a warm feeling like I did speaking with Wheel Enhancement, and hear me now and believe me later - I would very much like to avoid shipping costs. As far as each of their preferred methods are concerned, they are polar opposites. The local place does mostly or almost all powder coating, whereas Wheel Enhancement does mostly paint and will do powder coat but they tell you that it's not glass smooth. I prefer paint. Something I find comforting about Wheel Enhancement is that they seem to primarily work on Porsche as far as auto manufacturers are concerned.
  18. I didn't think I'd have time to call Wheel Enhancement until later, but I had a few minutes so I called. My confidence is very high with this company after speaking with Dave at Wheel Enhancement. My ignorance from my last post has been remedied after a short conversation. They strip the original finish off, and the new finish is baked on. Similar to how Porsche does it. The center caps are not so successfully refinished, so the recommendation is to get new black centers from Porsche to go along with black painted wheels. For me, I'm thinking that I should keep my current wheels the way they are. When I'm ready for the black wheels - order during winter for next spring - I'll get on the list for when Wheel Enhancement gets a set of used wheels in stock to have those finished and sent to me. "I like it when a plan comes together".
  19. . . . . I'd still like to hear about the pros and cons of painting wheels. Have some of you painted your wheels? Successfully? If a company, such as the one Loren recommends above, refinishes a wheel, I would assume they strip and paint from scratch. Would this sort of process include baking the new finish (assuming also that Porsche bakes the finish on the wheels)? In other words, are aftermarket finishes the same durability as Porsche factory finishes? The lower valance of the rear bumper on my ST was replaced and the body shop baked the new paint.
  20. Thanks Loren!! Very good source for Porsche wheels! I'll give them a call.
  21. 2004 Boxster, 2.7, Tiptronic, 36k miles, 17" wheels. First off, I love these wheels on this model! It's one of the options I was looking for while shopping for a Boxster. I'd love the wheels on my triple black car even more if they were black also, gloss black. My wheels are in perfect condition, perfect! I've searched here, PCA forums, other forums, and I can't seem to find info on the longevity of custom painting wheels. OEM wheels have a very durable finish on them. Is it possible to re-color them with long lasting success? If so, what process is best to employ to paint wheels - unmounted, bare, no tire or valve stem? Or . . . . should I just wrap them, knowing that re-wrapping is needed periodically, so that I retain the original finish if I sell the car in the future?
  22. I believe that you may want to replace the Caliper Bolts. I'm pretty sure this is a Porsche suggested maintenance replacement item. At Suncoast they're $9 per pair (1 pair per caliper). Re the Brake Pad Sensors, do those need to be replaced each time? I thought they are a reusable item ?? I haven't done a brake job yet for my 2004 Boxster but it'll be needing some attention in this area during winter storage. I do plan to AutoX next year, maybe a Track Day as well !!?? My plan is to do Porsche stock or equivalent for street and AutoX, but maybe Pagid for track. I've got time to decide.
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